What are
/r/snakes'
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/snakes:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/snakes:
SemanticScholar
ImgBB
Amino
Wikimedia Commons
Etsy
Veuwer
IGTV
TinyPic
Instructables
Grabilla
Imgur
Slither.io
AllTrails
sitejabber
Walmart
The most popular reviews in /r/snakes:
> 40 gal screen top tank
> No thermostat as there is a thick layer of substrate in the tank
/r/ballpython 's worse nightmare. Haha
I see you live in Southern (?) Florida, that's a huge reason why you haven't had an issue keeping the way you have. Decent on/off thermostats like this Inkbird are so cheap there's pretty much no reason not to have one. Check out /r/ballpythons sticky thread. I'm sure you can agree that even if you haven't had an issue in all this time that there's always room for improvement. Here's to 20 more!
Wow, your roommate sucks. Thank you for being willing to help this poor snake!
You can get a cheap plastic tub at Target (or similar) and use a couple bungee cords to reinforce the lid locks. The 27.5 gal Sterilite bin is $15 and can support a 4 foot snake (bulls would prefer a bit more space, but this will meet its needs in a pinch). If you can find a clear Christmas tree storage tub, that would work even better size-wise, but they're hard to come by this time of year.
Yes, they do need a hot spot at all times of the year. She'll be okay if you need some time to gather supplies, just hold off on feeding her. If you do get a plastic tub, you'll need to use a heat pad (can buy from any pet store, they're not expensive) and thermostat (all heating elements can reach dangerous temperatures if left unregulated). You want a hot spot of high 80s. Throw that heat rock into the garbage right now, they are dangerous and ineffective.
Ambient humidity is usually just fine unless your area is super dry. You can use a spray bottle to bump it up, though. If you use a substrate like coco husk, cypress mulch, or a bark blend, that will help retain moisture if you're having trouble.
Reptile-specific rescues are few and far between, but they do exist. You would probably have better luck posting on a FB group - look for some combination of "[your area] + reptile/snake" and you will likely find something! Sometimes people have even successfully rehomed snakes through posts on this sub.
Good luck!
I'm glad your snake is back home! but "tank with heavy books stacked on top" is probably why you lost her. You can get tank clips that are more secure than heavy books - snakes are stronger than you think and heavy books will fail. The books could also break through the wire mesh and squash your snake. You can get some really cheaply on Amazon
basking light isnt required and thermostat for heating pad is 100% required you will burn your snake without one. thermostat also shows you temps and accuirite makes hydrometer and thermometer . and 2 hides is required one on hot other on the cool side.
just to be clear a basking light will kill your humidity so it can actually be bad but depends on where you live also
The Complete Boa Constrictor - Vincent Russo - A great resource for those who want to learn about the different kinds
and history of Boa Constrictors as well as husbandry info. A ton of beautiful pictures, lessons on scale counting etc. Unfortunately, it does have a few spelling mistakes, and the organization isn't really the best (and it's a bit pricey), overall worth it.
This along with the feeding guide from CrispySnakes is my bible.
I owned two, but one was a baby that just wouldn't take to feeding so she passed, the other one is on breeding loan but will be coming home in a few weeks so I'll be sure to take some pics when that happens! feel free to check out my instagram though, I regularly post pics of all of my different snakes
Yes, everything this person said! For hides, I like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=twister_B00UCDIB4C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They're super cheap from Amazon and my snakes love them. Get one sized so the snake will fit snugly inside without a lot of extra space.
​
Your snake isn't eating because it is very, very stressed. Fix your issues with the enclosure and give it a solid week before you try feeding again.
That seems like an adequate size for the snake. If that's aspen shavings that seems fine. I wouldn't make any urgent suggestions. However, if you want to go a step above, I would consider the following:
- More clutter. Fake plants, rocks, sticks, anything to break line of sight. The more cover they have, the safer they feel.
- I would switch to a more 'shaved' aspen then the splintery style you look like you're using. Hognoses are burrowers and those shavings are a little sharp. I use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-Jumbo-Bedding/dp/B0725L68KB/
No it won't really give belly heat, you need a heating pad for a ball generally, and they are literally not usable without a thermostat. I got one for $18 on Amazon and it works fine. This isn't exactly it but close:
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S
Ok. he needs a basking spot of 85f in order to digest properly. His cool side temps should be between 70-75F. He should have two snug fitting hides, one on each end, and a decent sized water dish. Aspen is the best bedding for them. Amazon has a reallly good digital thermometer/hygrometer combo that I use in all my tanks, it's this one. does the tank have any sort of heating at all?
Hi, you should just "heat packs", they are designed for pet shipping/transport. You can find them on amazon pretty easily (Here is an exemple), they seem to be pretty cheap too.
I also advise you to research about how to use them properly (obviously), so that your snake is in the best conditions. To be honest I don't know much about that, all I know is that you don't want the eat pack to be in direct contact with the snake but I'm sure there are other things you should know before using them.
From what I have gathered, heat packs are essential to travel with snakes or ship snakes and are used by everyone in the hobby.
Hope that helped !
Marked edema = fluid accumulation/swelling
Ecchymosis = subcutaneous bleeding, similar to bruises
Lymphadenopathy = swollen lymph nodes
Cellulitis = bacterial infection of dermis and subcutaneous fat
Blister = fluid pockets in upper layers of skin
No systemic effects (all near the bite), complete recovery in 5 months.
Unclear if medically significant bites are a result of Duvernoy's gland secretions or allergic response due to previous exposure to venoms, or a combination of both.
Sustained grip/chewing means more venom, quick bites warning/defensive bites are less likely to engage rear fangs or deliver less venom.
>To date, there is no evidence documenting or supporting any systemic effects of a Heterodon bite.
I'm a herpetologist and I routinely handle specimens of both species for both research and recreational purposes. Here is an imgur album containing my own photographs of both species, and the differences are pretty apparent:
Hey yo! Sand is not good whatsoever for reptiles, it tends to stick to their food and cause impaction (a blockage in their gut and if left untreated it can lead to their death) perhaps change the sand to aspen snake bedding
place it on the underside of the tub, place the little rubber nubs the should have came with the heater on the four corners on the underside of the tub. make sure its not on the ground or anywhere flammable. I say a thermostat is necessary to keep the snake from getting burned or melting the plastic. You can buy one here
Not sure of their size, but something a lot of people on my BP forum have be trying is the jumbo dog balls with holes in them like this, for them to crawl around on (larger BPs won't fit) jumbo dog ball
You know your limits better than anyone else, but really, we're all here cheering you on. Once you get the tools you need for a snek, they're so easy to care for, and they are wonderful pets. My snake was out last night and both my roommates got to hold her for the first time. She also chose to perch her head on my roommates thumb for a straight 90 seconds and I basically died of how cute it was.
Just because corns are easy doesn't mean that you were born with the knowledge to care for them. A thermostat from amazon will regulate your temps for you and then you can rule out the temps being an issue. Feeding is probably the most stressful part, but with patience,that can be overcome too. All snakes can go long periods of time without eating, so a couple more weeks of trial and error won't make him any worse for wear. You can do it!
No, I completely understand wanting to monitor humidity and that is the perfect thing to do-I would just recommend a digital one. You can find them pretty cheap on Amazon. I use these. Bonus is you can monitor ambients too. Haha.
I don't recommend the ones with them built in. Do you have a glass tank? When I had glass tanks I used an appropriately sized Zoomed Reptitherm heat mat, and used this thermostat from amazon. it's cheap and does the job well enough. I still use that one for my quarantine enclosure and I've had no issue with it.
If you want to get the best thermostat you can, spyder Robotics makes really nice ones. I use a Herpstat 2 for my ball pythons and it's fantastic, very safe and reliable.
I use the AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor as a hygrometer and thermometer. I've used this for about 3 months now and have no complaints about it.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pros:
- Digital. May not be 100% accurate but definitely accurate enough
- Shows both humidity and temperature
- Cheap, comes in packs of 2.
- Has a stand that's also a clip that's also a magnet. I don't use the stand because I'm afraid my derp snake will make it snap shut and hurt himself.
- It shows you the high and low humidity and temp over the last 36 hours so I can sort of tell if it's been fluctuating. Mildly useful, I guess.
Cons:
- The sensor is at the bottom, which can mess with the readings if you just have it sitting on the substrate (especially if the substrate is damp), so I have to put it on top of something. Glass is too thick and I don't have a magnet strong enough to hold it up on the side.
EDIT: formatting
Oof. You’re in a tight spot, my dude. You can’t really buy them at your local store... this reptile supply website has them with a “quick ship option”, whatever that means. Amazon has them and you can shill out the big bucks for same day shipping. You might be able to buy from eBay but those aren’t guaranteed to work. If you can’t get your hands on one then you’ll have to cobble something together with DC to AC inverters.
I have ball pythons not sand boas, but what I use for ambient heat is a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). You would need a dome with a ceramic base because they can get very hot. I use this one , and the CHE can also be found on Amazon like this one . I also have mine on a dimming thermostat, since on/off thermostats can wear out the bulbs, but those can be pricey. I know some people will just use the dimmer knob for the dome, but you will need an infrared heat gun to check surface temps and adjust to make sure it’s not too hot, and check it regularly as it won’t adjust itself if your ambient temperature in your room fluctuates.
Oh cool, in that case they also have reptichip on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ReptiChip-Premium-Coconut-Substrate-Amphibians/dp/B0157O1CM8/ this is what I prefer to use. This is a huge bag but it could probably last you a year. I'm assuming it's quite humid where you live, so I think aspen would also be fine as long as you gave him a humid hide when he's about to shed. It's a bit messier because it tends to cling to everything so I only use it for my burrowing snakes since it keeps tunnel shapes.
Feeding fuzzy mice? That's too small for even a hatchling. They're normally fed hopper mice for a few weeks and big enough for fuzzy rats by the time they are sold. No doubt its hungry if it was only getting fuzzy mice before.
A good general guideline for feeding is 10-15% of body weight every 7-10 day for the first year or 750g (whichever comes first), 5-10% of body weight every 10-14 days for the second year or 1000g, and less than 5% every 14-28 days after that. The general idea is to size up to about small rats. Most BPs won't need more than that. It's mostly breeding females that will need larger.
You should try to buy or make some well sized hides. I like these. For reference, my 1.5kg adult female fits in a medium.
Your temps are acceptable. 83 is a bit warm for the cool side, but as long as it doesn't stay there, it's fine. The humidity should be up a bit. Average annual humidity across their native range is 70-90%. We usually recommend a minimum of 65%. I keep mine at 70-75% because if I let it go down to 65% for an extended period of time, she has shedding issues.
All in all, it sounds like your husbandry could use some minor tweaking, but there's nothing majorly off. Nothing that should keep a baby from feeding.
I get mine from costco but i use them for a lot more than just snake wrangling, so it may be to many for you. They can usually be found wherever there is a pharmacy like CVS, rite aid, safeway, and walmart to name a few. Just ask for exam gloves. They also sell em in latex, but some people are allergic to it.
Check out pg. 93, it's got a range map and their distribution is also described here, pg. 679.
that’s alright, you do have plenty of decorations so i’m sure your snake will feel safe enough to come out, here’s a link further explaining overhead heating if you want to give it a read
The ones made by Exo Terra come in two sizes, "small" should work for every tank under 30 gallons! If they feel loose, bend them inwards for a tighter fit. Since your rosy boa is a little escape artist I encourage you to get two sets and put one clip on each side. Pull the tank lid up when they're attached to see if there are any gaps big enough to slither through (especially around the corners)! Good luck :-)
Poor guy ! Get him a humidifier if you haven't already and if keep his humidity above 70 till he starts to look better.
> If my humidity is a stable 73-76% then yes - the fogger and humidistat is working as intended. I.e keeping a stable humidity 24/7.
I am skeptical that's the case. I could be wrong, but I've seen this many times before.
Consider buying one of these. That sensor is surprisingly good for $36 and you can get a log of temp and humidity every 10 minutes. Either way it's a great tool that every keeper can benefit from.
Also consider one of these if you are going to stick with the glass tank. They do a lot to boost humidity. Long term, opt for a PVC enclosure with an RHP.
if you have a mesh top, just put in on top of the tank, but if you can't do that, you'll have to buy one of these protective cages. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Scald-Protective-Lampshades-Enclosure-Protector/dp/B07V24FDB6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=protective+cage+terrarium+light&qid=1614247161&sr=8-3
I would recommend ordering a digital thermometer and hygrometer combo to more accurately read the tank temps/humidity. The sticky analog ones are extremely unreliable and can be hazardous to your snakes scales if if falls off and gets stuck. I got mine from amazon for less than $10. Way more accurate and nothing sticky.
Also that enclosure is a tad bit too small for that size snake. Its ok for now but you'll want to get something at least 6 ft long to accommodate the snake. Heres a care guide from a really good source called reptifiles.com click the boa constrictor tab and read through that. It has all the enclosure, heating, lighting, etc for boas 6 feet and up on there.
I use this thermostat: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat for Heat Mats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q.ryub0RX2RPF
And I got a strip of LED lights, a remote control dimmer, and a power cord on Amazon for lighting since it gives off no heat and can be adjusted. I can link you if you're interested in that :) Although I will add that my BRB freezes and/or retreats to a hide with lights on. Pitch black and he'll pop out within ten minutes!
Welcome,
Congrats on choosing a MBK, I just got a juvenile on Saturday! I've always wanted one but had trouble finding a young one. I have 2 corns, a hognose, and a Cali King. Ever since I got my Cali King, kingsnakes have been my favorites.
Tubs are generally better. They hold heat and humidity ALOT better than tanks. That being said, kingsnakes don't have high humidity requirements (~40%-60%), and I haven't had a problem while using something like Reptibark. I prefer tanks, because I'm selfish and enjoy seeing the snakes (when they're out). I don't really see a problem with it as long as you can keep the temperature/humidity requirements right.
I use Zoomed ReptiTherm heatpads, never had an issue with them, accomponied by this thermostat. A thermostat is a necessity with heat pads. They will get ridiculously hot and could burn your snake.
AFAIK they don't. Every breeder/keeper I've spoken to has said they never used a UVB light for their snakes and haven't had issues, snakes have lived long lives. I'm sure it can't hurt, but I don't use lights for mine.
I prefer going to reptile expos if you can find one in your area. Mostly because you can talk to experienced keepers to figure out the best way to keep your reptiles healthy. I usually order my thermostats/heatmats on amazon though.
I hope you enjoy your new snake, welcome to the community, and I EXPECT PICS. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to help.
Great! That should also serve as an example too: if it was that easy for you to take off and expose the adhesive, imagine how easy it would have been for a snake!
This is the digital one that Ataraxia has in her link dump. I was concerned because of the reviews, but actually looking through them it seems to be a lot of people who don't know what they are doing/buying. I did an ice-bath test for the probe, a salt test for the hydrometer, and compared the "Inside" temp with a known source and it was fine. While that's a sample size of one unit, you can also return to Amazon for a fair period if something does go wrong.
The hardest part ill be fixing the main unit to the tank since you have glass walls instead of plastic (Plastic you can just pop a hole and slip a bolt through).
I live in the USA and they are common at any pet store that sells reptiles. If you have a reptile store nearby I'm sure they will have some, or you can find it online as a "Collapsible Snake Hook."
Amazon US This is from the US Amazon site, not sure which Amazon site you'd use in Netherlands. But you may be able to find something similar that's not specifically for snakes.
I'd advise to get the thermostat off Amazon as well. Petsmart and Petco locally carry none, and our local exotics place now has ONE kind at least, probably since I mentioned it and I'm sure others did too since we hold one of the local W-WI cons in town.
Suffice to say, not an item kept at a lot of stores but it is VITAL for your animal's wellbeing. Jumpstart/Inkbird are used for seedling mats but it works as a simple on/off thermostat until you can invest in better ones such as a Herpstat. This is the one the store stocks, and isn't worth it IMHO. Get a digital one.
Good on you taking in a rescue but definitely try to get the heat addressed. Interim fix is heating the room the animal is in to the needed ambient range then hold off on feeding until you have the heat source regulated properly. They need their hot spot MOSTLY for digestion, which is why it needs to be well-maintained to avoid burning/regurgitation.
Cheaper option is the jumpstart thermostat you can grab from amazon. Not sure why it's 33$ right now though, I got mine for 20$ in Oct.
Here are the links to the two I got off amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B57KZ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
You sure it's accurate? Measure from the inside of the glass and make sure the heat pad is in good contact with the glass.
Something like this is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uWbnFbZV2SQ1T
This is the one I use, and it seems to be a pretty popular model with other keepers as well.
Here's my suggestion, I'd get a hydrometer that can be moved to both sides or get two but the hot side is the one that matters most. As for thermometer the best way to get an accurate measurement is an infrared one(sorta gun shaped) that you point and it gives a temperature. They aren't too expensive on Amazon and they are not only ideal but somewhat necessary as you're going to want to keep track of three temperatures. The hot side, the cool side, and the Hotspot itself, which makes the infrared thermometer ideal: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=infrared+thermometer&qid=1588385507&sr=8-1
You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.
It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside. You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.
Try getting jumpstart thermostats on Amazon and 2 pack Grove indoor hygrometer and thermometer put one on each side of his enclosure set the app to preferred(appropriate) temperatures
I use a slightly more expensive model by the same company. I honestly wouldn't expect much from any handvac under $40.
This is fun too: Snake coloring book
I have 8 of these on my long tank never had an escape in 5 years. Its an 8 foot long tank...not a corn tho I bet one would love all that room
You pretty much end up having to order them online. It'll save you money to do so, I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=asc_df_B01I15S6OM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193150648923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17718173880473426504&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014320&hvtargid=pla-314068780962&psc=1. I check mine regularly with a temp gun to make sure the probes are actually recording an accurate temp inside the tank and therefore turning the heating element on and off at the appropriate times.
boas like belly heat, so i would keep it in there, but under the warm side cave, which seems to be the black one on the right. the cool side should only receive a little heat from the lamp. also, get the plug in thermostats, or u risk burning your snake. Heres the one I have. I have 2. One for the lamp, one for the mat
I use these in all my cages
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WTG2TC5
They don't get hot and I don't have any guards over them. I prefer the warm white over the cool white but that is personal preference. I use two in each of the 4' cages, three in the 5' and four in the 6' cages. The cages are stacked so I just daisy chain lights with the supplied cords through desk grommets in each cage. Each set it plugged into a power strip which is plugged into a timer.
You could try a digital measuring tape. Something like this;
https://www.chewy.com/new-age-pet-ecoflex-mojave-reptile/dp/288127 I have 2 of these and they're on sale. not the 200 it says they've been floating around 360 but it is 280 rn
You could always try redecorating to create new enrichment but it's also just kind of snake behavior to explore their enclosure. My boa loves to do things that make noise such as tip her smaller hide (it's a corner hide and ever since she figured out she could do it she's started flipping it and dragging it around the tank) I like to give her one of those squishy hexagonal dog balls every once and a while it's near silent as she moves it around the tank and easy to clean. I'll add a link to it.
https://www.chewy.com/jw-pet-hol-ee-roller-dog-toy-color/dp/38425[dog toy ](https://www.chewy.com/jw-pet-hol-ee-roller-dog-toy-color/dp/38425)
Glad you found her. For the any future animals you might keep in that enclosure (or any aquarium) get some lid clips, make a world of difference. These are the ones I used to use. https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Reptile-Terrarium-Covers-Non-Locking/dp/B06XGHPWDB/ref=sr\_1\_11?crid=ES2PV1STQDVD&keywords=aquarium+lid+clips&qid=1666810820&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjE4IiwicXNhIjoiNC41NCIsInFzcCI6IjQuNDEifQ%3D%3D&s=pet-suppli...
That's the one I have in all 11 vivs and never had any issues. I use smart plugs aswell so they have 12 hours on and 12 hours off, you quickly notice a difference in their behaviour when they have a routine of lights.
Forget to mention the uv light should be on for 12 hours then off for 12 hours, you probably already know that with the lizard though.
You cat sounds just like my cat 😂. I have a front opening enclosure with a locking fine mesh top, and I ended up getting a stronger screen made for the same size enclosure to set over the locking mesh. It doesn't keep the cat off, but it does prevent any damage or break-ins, which with cats is about as good as you can get, really lol
Oops, nevermind just saw your other post saying there's a heat mat in addition to the overhead emitter. In that case he's just eagerly awaiting more stuff to climb on.
In addition to sturdy branches, I'd also HIGHLY recommend these fake plants: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QK9YZ3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They're the perfect size for medium-sized enclosures and can be strategically attached on branches and in the corners of the cages to provide more "clutter" to make your snake feel secure. They like to feel hidden so thick foliage really helps. Plus they're plastic so they're easy to clean.
The easiest answer it to use a solid topped enclosure like PVC that a cat will never be able to get into. You can also cat proof screen topped enclosures through various methods. Zilla spring clips to secure lamp domes to the screen to prevent them from being knocked over, and scat mats to discourage them from getting onto the screen.
I recommend getting a Proportional Integral Derivative (PID) temperature controller. You can buy built ones that are kinda pricey ($120-220+) or build your own using a components kit like this one https://amazon.com/dp/B08Y8GX1WT
It will adjust your output voltage and dial it directly into a target temperature over time.
I would recommend buying from your country's dedicated reptile shops instead. That way you can buy everything in one place, and know it's good quality. Since you didn't say what country you're from, 95% chance it's the US. For amazon, something like this:
Will work just fine. Depending on the size of the enclosure you might need more than two. I'm not American, so I'm just going off memory, but websites I recommend over amazon are places like Josh's frogs, the bio dude and dubiaroaches.com (who also make an excellent 120 gallon enclosure).
Okay. Links are for US/Amazon. Similar parts can be gotten elsewhere though.
CO2 canister, ships empty - locally liquor stores or homebrewing stores will trade for full ones (~$20 where I'm located). https://www.amazon.com/lb-Aluminum-CO2-Cylinder-Valve/dp/B00UXJ9SS8/
Regulator with a flow meter, note the connection type (CGA320). Some other models have a different connector that fits much bigger canisters. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JNF21DK/
Most hardware stores have the tubing, this one iirc is 1/4" inner diameter tubing. If the container is airtight, an O2 escape hole at the top is needed. If not, it will escape around the lid.
In order to set the flow meter, you need to calculate your container volume. The meter measures in liters per minute, so find the liters of the container. Then figure out what 30-70% of that is and set the regulator to that number. Personally, I use 50% since it's the middle of the range and easiest to do the math. So a 12 liter container gets set at 6 liters per minute. Once you calibrate the setting, you can set it and forget it with the same chamber. On off can be done on the canister itself leaving the regulator alone.
If you aren’t going to feed them mice, it’s absolutely essential that you provide them with a vitamin supplement and calcium powder sprinkled onto their food. I use these:
https://www.chewy.com/flukers-calcium-without-vitamin-d3/dp/126184?
The liquid vitamin is complete and even though it has a strong vitamin smell, my garter snakes don’t mind it at all. Be sure to follow the directions on the package very closely. Since the liquid vitamin comes with D3, you should give them plain calcium powder. I would strongly recommend buying chicken hearts and gizzards to replace the organ meat they will miss out on by not feeding them mice. Mine love chicken hearts. Garter snakes can do alright without mice in their diet but they will need a good nutritional substitute.
I worked at a vet clinic and I can't tell you how many turtles got brought in under the exact same circumstances. Apparently batting around and chewing on a slightly rolly rock is insanely fun for dogs.
Since your pit enjoyed playing with the turtle, I recommend the Jolly egg. My rottie absolutely loved hers for all eight years of her life and its the only toy that didn't ever get destroyed.
I can't say that it will spare any reptile lives, but it is super fun to watch them chase it around.
He means the round temperature thermometer “gauge” is very bad and they are not accurate at all to tell the temperature, I will provide a link. Also he should get a temperature “gun” so he can check his hotspot.
better to be safe than sorry. these are about $10 on amazon and then you don't have to worry about it.
My advice: ditch the heat mat and just use a halogen bulb for heat. The heat mat won't go through all that substrate anyway... UVB isn't strictly necessary but I still highly recommend it. And then for the plants you'll need either LED or grow lights...
I don't have a bioactive set up but I do have a halogen bulb, UVB and LED lights to try and replicate the sun. (Animals at Home podcast with Dr. Frances Bains. Highly recommend!) I don't know if it would be sufficient for your plants, but I just got a LED strip and used the adhesive to stick it on the underside of my UVB hood. That way it's only two fixtures but still all the lighting.
And as for the tub setup, keep it simple with just the heat mat on a thermostat.
Strip lights example: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XHLGSXN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_31SYTMD29M81GM83TAC5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Looks like a 20g long Zilla critter cage from the tag in the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-13234-Deluxe-Critter-Feeding/dp/B012GE34VE
The replacement lids are ridiculously expensive so I'd honestly just buy a generic metal screen lid for 15-20 bucks and make sure it's secure. 3 different sites have the replacement lid at $47.99 https://centralspareparts.myshopify.com/collections/zilla/products/zilla-30-critter-cage-slide-in-screen-replacement-cover-w-door
Hiya. This definitely looks like early scale rot. Not all that bad yet though.
I've had good success using this : https://www.amazon.com/Vetericyn-Reptile-Antimicrobial-Non-Toxic-Lizards/dp/B01M4NTSKZ
Spray a few times a day and it should clear up in a few weeks.
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
this isn't the purpose of a heat mat and is a really ineffectual way to heat. Also, heat mats should ONLY be used with a Heat mat thermostat to stop the snake from being burned which I think that would be hard to use in the situation you have. I highly recommend over heat with a halogen or DHP like u/fionageck mentioned with a cage around the fixture to prevent the snake from getting too close to it.
No problem! If you don't own it already, I'd highly recommend the book The (More) Complete Boa Constrictor. It goes into great detail about localities/subspecies with a far more scientific angle than most books on the market. Very educational read.
Around $18 for a 5-10 gallon heat mat and around $25 for a 20 gallon heat matt. They're a little pricey because they carry big brands like exoterra and zoo med which are low quality for the price. I have bought these ones off Amazon for my sand boas and they work good and the hot spots are only about 5 degrees hotter than the "cold" spots (heat mats usually have hot spots so you want to use a temp gun and check every inch of it to find them). You'll also need a thermostat bc they can get up to 120F or more and the thermostat will stop this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076FHK3NM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M78G8V4NJ0NT4S1ZGK3M?psc=1
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Here’s the links to download and try it out! I would love some feedback!
Some of the features:
- Dark & light mode
- Image saving w/ captions
- Custom QR codes for each herptile
- Length & weight tracking
- Super advanced calendar logging
- Food supply tracker
- Push notifications/reminders
- 270+ species to pick from on beta launch
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lizardbox
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lizardbox-herptile-manager/id1603903840
Sure thing!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NJBDW1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The first one was a bit tricky to figure out how deep to put the non-key end in the inside vertical wall. After that, I was able to unlock it and lay the cable out like on my second tub down and use that to gauge how far back to put in the subsequent locks.
As long as the cable is taught against the tubs when locked, the tubs will not provide any opening for hands to get in or snakes to get out.
Absolute worst case, you could get a second fogger and have both of them operate on a smart timer for half the day each?
https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3/
I like the Kasa ones because they monitor electrical consumption as well and from a reliable company. There's other brands, some individual outlets, some with just 3. Expect to pay $10ish per controlled outlet. The ability to set individual timers for lights/misters and also to do an emergency shutdown remotely in case a thermostat goes wrong is well worth it.
Nah your tank is smaller. My current tank is a 27gal and it's uh... 24×16x16. Making mine a 26gal tank. The equation to figure out how many gallons it is... Is L x W x H ÷ 231. Your tank is 18.7gal. It's important to accurately know the size of your enclosure. You can Google for yourself how to calculate a terrariums gallons if you'd like.
This 6 × 8 should work great for you. You don't want it too big because it'll make the entire enclosure hot, instead of being a hot spot. In small tanks it's rough to keep the entire thing from getting too hot.
Zilla Vertical Décor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006L10PC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BS2SS164KSNK60CY8BGF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Are you talking about the drift wood in the center? If so that's just manzanita wood from pine Arizona sourced from my in laws place. The hanging ledge/cave is pretty cool, the inside is fairly large and I stuff it with sphagnum moss so he has a extra moist area if he wants.
Dollar tree has these black, round togo containers in a 2-pack and they are perfect for hides I cut a little door and use them for my 5 snakes. Slap the lid on and it's a humid hide for when they shed. I also bought some plants on Amazon and I love them they're a really good deal. Got a 6 pack so they came out to $4.50 each. If you look at my post history you'll see the plants on the cool side of my BPs tank. I use them for all my reptiles. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099DXL9QY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_18N1GEE4R0E9R819B3S2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Sticks/branches from outside work just fine but make sure you bake them at like 200F for 2-3 hours to kill any parasites then boil it to clean it after everything is dead.
The watts on the power supply is, as far as I can tell, how much power it stores. So I'm not sure exactly which one will work for you.
This one has a um... Warning system for power outtages, I'm not sure how functional it is but perhaps it will warn you when the power goes out.
Fill some plastic soda bottles or water bottles with hot water and place it in your tanks. If you can get hot water. You can also get hand warming packets and place them in (careful of these, they can get too warm and burn snakes, they are reptile ones that stay the right temp), I would also invest in a power bank surge protector, it stores energy while it's plugged in and in the case of a power outtage it will switch to its reserves and pump out power to the things plugged into it.
Okay, thank you for that link.
I don't have any of the chemical hand warmers, I've got those rubber hot water bottles like this. We've got camping stoves that can be used to boil water for them.
add more things to do in their enclosure! ive noticed that most reptiles do it when theyre bored. check out these-- alot of peoples snakes adore them. more sticks and fake plants should make things more interesting too :)