What are /r/Archery's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Sure thing.

I picked this scope up on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Monocular-Telescope-Smartphone-Waterproof-Shockproof/dp/B07D3RYXWN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=vivreal+scope&qid=1566873619&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Single zoom setting, but adjustable focus. The included tripod is tiny, so im using an Amazon basics tripod I bought a while back.

Using this and the zoom on my phone camera allows me to have a clear sight picture at 40 yards, https://i.imgur.com/iInzfiQ.jpg (taken in pretty low light and still looks pretty good), and being able to just glance over at the screen is much more convenient than leaning over to peep down the scope after every shot.

TIL there are $70 arrows. Mine are $2.50 ($30/dozen). I'm a beginner shooting a recurve in the yard and occasionally lose arrows. How much better are pricier arrows?

Compound bows store more energy because they have superior draw force curve shapes. Compare the following two draw force curves:

• Recurve
• Compound

These curves are made with fake data, but the general shape of the curve is correct.

Both 35# bows at 28" draw, but the compound bow is storing ~49 ft-lbf of energy, while the recurve is storing ~32.5 ft-lbf.

The compound bow is imparting greater forces on the arrow throughout most of the draw cycle.

I have been using this at the club and it has kind of gone viral (half the shooting line was using it on Monday): https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.dreier.mytargets&hl=en

It has a number of cool features, like showing groupings for a round and graphing your average arrow score per end. I don't know if it is helping me improve per se, but I find it pretty motivating to track my improvement and even within a round, I enjoy seeing my average arrow score

I'm so sorry, I'm a Reddit Noob and I'm still trying to figure out all the particulars. If there is a guide, please point me to it.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40030

I just made it for fun...I had a couple of "less than quality" arrows that came with a recent purchase. I just printed it out, bored out the middle with my Dremel and stuck it in there with some Gorilla glue.

I just made it for fun.

its Bubinga funny though Babinga are a group of pygmies. Anyway Love the bow. my dad has made a few and it is alot of work and time. how does it shoot?

Well... I would encourage you to check your Friendly Local Comic Shop first. But if you don't have one nearby, or cannot get to it/order through them, Comixology has it available in scanned format.

I have a bow sock, similar to this;

https://www.amazon.ca/GUGULUZA-Archery-Silicone-Treated-Traditional/dp/B071NVH8RW

With an unstrung bow in it, it just looks like a stick in a sock.

If the bow is a takedown, just take it apart and put it in a backpack.

If it’s a compound, I dunno. Wrap it in a towel?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Micro-Red-Dot-Scope-Sight-Mount-Archey-Bow-/130534505801?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4123395325242820219#ht_2235wt_1185

Reflex sight in place of pin sights, but it's on a weaver base, not picatinny.

Custom bows are often less expensive, better looking and far more unique than production bows. However they are generally less reliable, especially if made with wood limbs instead of fibreglass.

Different woods generally dictate limb width. The denser the wood, the narrower the limb can be made without detriment to the performance of the bow. Fibreglass bows often contain a wood core but it's all for looks.

My favourite bowyer is probably Marc St-Louis over at http://www.ironwoodbowyer.com/

I also sell a few of my bows over at Etsy

/u/huisme who often posts here makes great black locust self bows. He could be contacted as well for a custom bow.

Easy. Use guitar hangers on Amazon. They are padded so won’t ruin finish, secure enough even bumping them they stay on and cheap price. This is my set up.

https://imgur.com/a/KuATXpL

String Swing CC01K-BW Guitar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2WZJDE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the exact reason one of the most common native american artifacts you find is the arrow head.

Here's a product being sold on amazon that's trying to fix the issue - its a nock you can track by LED or by bluetooth with your phone. I dont own one so I cant vouch for it, but I found it interesting:

https://www.amazon.com/BREADCRUMB-Bluetooth-Trackable-Technology-Hunting/dp/B07K6WBHL1

But the real answer here is, the more money you invest in gadgetry to prevent lost arrows, the more maddening it is going to be when you lose them anyways.

Ok, measured one screw, M3x6 flathead.

Metric, 3mm, 6mm long. I have M3 flat head but they are too long and a bitch to cut and I'm going camping.

Amazon to the rescue

Here he uses the method to pull a verified 128# bow. Remember, he's a small wiry guy! And had been shooting for years without injury and teaches the Gaoying method through his book, The Way of Archery: A 1637 Chinese Military Training Manual.

128# bow. https://youtu.be/mDQYDHtlDOk

Get the book here: The Way of Archery: A 1637 Chinese Military Training Manual https://www.amazon.com/dp/0764347918/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kiOvFb4QX5BPP

Yeah dude! The quiver is on amazon and has a belt hook and shoulder strap! Im getting a smaller target to be less cumbersome

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07ZKBS4JB/ref=mp_s_a_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1593650732&sr=1-38&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

You might want to get one with more straps as this shifted alot as i rode:

https://www.amazon.com/TOPARCHERY-Archery-Shoulder-Shooting-Pockets/dp/B07TJ47DS8?ref_=mh_s9_apbd_orecs_bEFMF&pf_rd_r=C7BJWV8PPPHBQN98519Z&pf_rd_p=6c067c27-c6ea-5d8b-8aed-3ab5afeaad9a&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-12&pf_rd_t=BROWSE_ANYWHER...

? A different PSE pro than the one in your title? Is it a kit? At $100 for just the bow, there starts to be competition from more "established" makers. Not that that means they are better but perhaps you are taking less risk on.

For example, Amazon has the Ragim Wildcat in 70" and 28# draw for under $100. Possibly the taller bow would be better for you, possibly not. But limbs can be found from US sellers for around $70, allowing you to move up in weight for less than a new bow (though admittedly not tons less, but say you try two new weights, that's $60 less than two new bows). Limbs can also reduce the size to 68" or 66" on that riser, if you find it's too tall or want to buy different limbs for a friend or family member to use. Can the PSE do either of those things?

Anyway, I am in no way saying the purchase you are considering is bad, just that there are other opportunities at that price.

Yeah, and that's largely the problem when software engineers run into "academic" code -- the conventions used are all mathematical or physics-type nomenclature, but it makes it almost impossible to read/follow for someone that's used to reading code, if that makes sense.

There's a fantastic book called Clean Code that talks about how to just write code better and in a more readable manner. It's pretty readable by people with any level of coding knowledge, and I'd highly recommend it should you ever want to cross into the realm of software as a profession, or as a more serious hobby ☺

Yes. Install one of those apps that help you find one another and it's up to you when you go seek the other out/try to sneak up on him. When you post photo proof that you've 'won' I'll take away a trophy from the loser and the winner gets two trophies.

don't switch to a youth bow- practice with the tool you will be using. a lot of the sport in getting to where it is mostly memory and consistency is key. if you are going through a lot of arrows consider getting a fletching jig and assembling your own; and bulk is always the way to go. you could also use the jig to repair your stripped arrows.

Any one of these would be a good start. Try calling them if you can, or email etc. I don't know what you are looking for, that would help figure out what you need XD

http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-LE50-50-lb-Pistol-Crossbow/dp/B000N239RG

This is similar if not exactly what you have. I have a pistol crossbow made by a different company. If you look on the amazon link you can see the "arrows"(actually called bolts) can be purchased separately. Then follow this instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-use-your-pistol-crossbow/

happy crossbowing ! :)

Here is one of the barnett phantoms (the one you called dart pistol) on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BARNETT-PHANTOM-PISTOL-16-CROSSBOW-MINI-GUN-HAND-HELD-ARCHERY-HUNTING-/150719907938?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23179b4862#ht_1855wt_1396

I don't think they're worth too much, but barnett is a reputable brand.

THe actual crossbow is a barnett phantom according to the receipt. YOu might get 200-300 for the pacakge on that one if it's in good shape according to completed listings on eBay.

This looks interesting. I have to get my draw remeasured though. 50# seems decent for me.

Noted, and that is why I mentioned the tray. It has been my experience that this happens because the user is impatient, the tray just kinda speeds up the process.

The tillering process on a PVC bow is counterintuitive and it takes some time to learn how PVC behaves. Nowadays I use wood and PVC to make a horse bow that is straight up nasty. Here is a link to my page. Here is a link to some video of my bows being shot.

Haha, that would require some Bruce Lee level finger strength. I use an Archer's Release sometimes, it saves my fingers from getting chewed up. Here is what they look like up close

They have a lot of cool stuff and I've never heard anything bad about them reliability/service wise but their prices are a bit...

For example, their Scythian bows start at $295, while the same bow can be had from Europe for ~$110, almost a third of that price. Tatar bow $335, from Europe ~$154. It's pretty much the same story across the board.

For that price you get an easier shopping experience and maybe quicker shipping time if they have the bow in stock but in my opinion that isn't worth paying double to triple price for the exact same bow.

I'd say order from www.bowshop.eu instead. Pay with paypal and you're protected by their buyer's protection from any fraud. Shipping will be about $50 but that's a nonissue when you're saving almost $200 on the price of the bow itself..

I've seen rings like this before but never had means to try one, until I got my 3D-printer!

Here's the one in the picture and here's a bigger one that probably will last longer too.

I recommend going with the last one even if you have smaller finger(like me) since it seems sturdier.

I have Rod Monochromatism (a kind of day blindness) which makes me legally blind plus I'm also almost blind I one eye. I shoot barebow and while I'm defiantly at somewhat of a disadvantage when the suns out, I recon I could out shoot many in the dead of night. One thing that's absolutely not diminished by my vision is the enjoyment I get from archery. Another thing I'd say is, your unique differences only become a true disability if you try and do things in the same way as everyone else. Find your own way path and never be afraid to innovate.

Here's a little info about Rod Monochromatism http://hubpages.com/education/Congenital-Achromatopsia

I use this for my bow. If you like tacticcol stuff, it's nice. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=hazard+4+plan+b&ia=products&iai=B00RDIT0E4http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F51Zkt85CWUL.jpghttp%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F51Zkt85CWUL._SL160_.jpg

I bought this: http://www.dx.com/p/380-400nm-14-led-ultraviolet-light-uv-flashlight-black-3-x-aaa-178998

I'd suggest buying one, then go to the store, and try to light on the fletchings, see which works.

As you can see on the picture, i've got some red and white fletchings in there, but they don't work

Ebay has a Gold Medalist going right now with a stabilizer and sight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hoyt-Medalist-Recurve-Target-Bow-/320750416706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aae36f342

It is hard to judge how much the final price will be with ebay. I've seen really great bows go for cheap and I've seen beginners bows go for a lot more than they should. If this wasn't ebay, I would guess $300-350 for everything in the auction.

I started with a bow similar to that and it really is a great bow for all shooting levels. With competitive archery, people feel the need to get the latest and greatest things, but 20 years ago, every olympic archer used a bow almost identical to that one. It has 40# limbs, but with your draw length, it will probably be closer to 44. You should be able to tune it down to about 40. That is a lot more than what you want to start out with, but you might be able to rent bows until you get closer to that being a comfortable draw.

If you can't find a proper wall mount, then just buy a guitar wall hanger, and hang it by the riser/grip.

No problemo! Should also mention that I tried this one as well: https://www.amazon.ca/Saunders-Hyper-Glide-Cable-Slide/dp/B000P337SO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Saunders+Hyper-Glide+Cable+Slide&qid=1624654157&sr=8-1

It had great reviews, but mine blew apart on me after about 100 shots. Maybe just a defective one, but I won't be giving it a second chance.

I picked up one very similar to this: https://www.amazon.ca/Aluminium-Archery-Compound-String-Splitter/dp/B07PN3HDK9/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=cable+guide+bow&qid=1624588324&sr=8-7

So far seems to be working better, but time will tell.

I just got back from my first session at an indoor archery range and loved it, so I was thinking of buying a relatively inexpensive recurve bow and getting into archery. I tend to jump from hobby to hobby so I'm not looking to spend a ton of money in case this becomes a passing fad for me. Under USD $150 or so would be good. I'm a medium-framed woman, 68" tall with a 72" armspan (yes I'm built like an ape), so that gives me a calculated draw length of 28.8". The bows we rented today were 62" PSE Snake with 22lb draw weight, and I had no problem handling it and no significant fatigue over the course of the hour. Would this be a good starter bow in the 25lb weight version?

https://www.amazon.com/PSE-Pro-Max-Recurve-62/dp/B01N12IUUC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

And is 62" long enough for me? I can't find many that are longer for low prices, but some of the websites I was looking at suggested that I need a 68" or longer bow. That's as tall as I am, so it sounds a little suspect to me, but I don't want to get something that's the wrong size.

https://www.amazon.com/Pigskin-Handmade-Traditional-Mongolian-Horsebow/dp/B00CV3JO56/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=manchu+horse+bow&qid=1621395963&sr=8-3 This is it here. At least it does mention Manchu in the title. Yes I really enjoy it! And it looks way cool I think. It was a little tough at first because for me it was the first time shooting a bow with no shelf. But It's more exotic and historical which I dig. It really feels good in the hand and loading arrows feels natural. Learning khatra with my now preferred style of thumb draw shooting has taken the accuracy to another level.

after allot of research I got this bow you can get any strength limbs you want I have 30 and 50 it shoots amazing and is very well built

Obert Original Black Hunter Takedown Recurve Bow 60inch with Bamboo Core Limbs Archery Hunting Target Practice https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076VMTHL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PBFVRKMCMJ77X8E8BQTX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Do you think this would work for you? Well-reviewed and looks like it has better ergonomics than what you originally posted (archery mechanics-wise). Scott is a great brand as well, I have a scott hinge that I use from time to time.

Can buy these to use that bow above https://www.amazon.com/ZRM-Plastic-Archery-Recurve-Equipment/dp/B08R6YVQ7Z/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=right+and+left&qid=1613840615&s=hunting-fishing&sr=1-18 I bet they sell these on UK Amazon. I would anyhow since the bow has a flat shelf on the riser and you need a curved one to work best.

If you can’t find one for sale, try this. It has worked for others as a 3rd axis level, just as well as the Gucci Hamskea ones. Plus, it’s $11. Conduit Level - Amazon

If you want to learn to shoot a traditional bow, I'd recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DF4HKQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_CECZ41BGF9ER7HFXWVBC?psc=1

It's cheap. It's fiberglass. But it works. You can start picking up all the good habits you'll need so that you don't damage a more expensive and pretty one you get later. You're going to be a lot less salty if you damage the limbs while stringing a $100 bow than you're going to be for a $300 one.

If you're interested in thumb draw, you can also get this bow in a lower poundage to practice form and get build up your thumb a little more before buying a bow at whatever poundage you use now.

BTW, despite what the price might lead you to believe, it's really not that bad of a bow. It's pretty durable and definitely functions better than you'd think given the price tag.

So yeah, my advice is go cheap to start, train yourself up a bit, and then buy your forever bow after.

Such a great bow! I slapped a drop away rest on it and I'm planning on just upgrading accessories until they lapse the price of the bow then upgrade. It could just be me but I was getting some somewhat annoying vibration out of the box. Highly recommend these limb savers if you notice a similar issue.

Enjoy your new bow!

As a covid winter sets in, my wife and I are looking at ways to utilize an unfinished 20ftx12ft room in our basement.

One thought was to take up archery - we're both total beginners.

Is this possible to do safely, or is it a dumb idea?

We were thinking about buying something like this with blunt tipped arrows. Is that bad in a basement? Is 15-20ft too close a range?

Would we need a forearm protector right away? Can we do a diy target/backstop? Would we be better buying something?

“Ohh this, I got it training archery” it’s actually cooler of an excuse then most.

I’ve worked my share of sketchy jobs in bad hoods, unless you’re tactical GI joe or are paid to fight why worry about it. A bruise won’t make or break a idiots choice to rob ya or try to start something.

Or try these. UV Sun Protection Arm Sleeves - Cooling Sports Compression Multipack Athletic Sleeves for Men & Women - UPF 50 Arm Cover/Shield for Basketball, Running, Cycling, Golf, Baseball & Football https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZMTCDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_FehRFb20M8045

I like the vermil rings off amazon. They are made in Thailand and take a while to ship, but they are the best ones I have found. About 30$. https://www.amazon.com/Vermil-Premium-Handmade-Traditional-Archery/dp/B00LUM40Q2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459363547&sr=8-1&keywords=Vermil+archery+ring

I've always been a fan of PSE as a starting point (though I think they might be often rebranding Italian Ragim bows, which are also great). You can usually find a new 25# bow under $100. It will be a bigger investment to get started, so it may be nice to start with borrowed or rented equipment, but it will certainly be a big step up from the Barnett. If you can manage to, starting with feather-fletched arrows will also vastly improve your experience.

Here is an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZOD8DA/ref=twister_B002ZOB4FE?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

(It appears that 41575R6225 is the model number for the 62" 25# bow, which is a good starting weight)

As someone who is carless i had a huge case that was too bulky for me to take on the bus so i hopped on amazon and purchased this bow sling and ive been super happy with it

i shoot a 66" 26# recurve. i ended up getting these 700-800 spine arrows from amazon that shoot nice and straight:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1GK274/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3QQX12JBG8ALD&coliid=IRA4H1RX9DPBS

I think the birch is a more period wood. I do a lot of historical reenactment-type stuff. The poplar was also fine, the woods are very similar.

I ordered the poplar dowels on Amazon: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4TPZKK

Yeah. It’s in the West. Usually they are about $40. I picked one up today.

This is what it was. I was surprised it was $23 cheaper than amazon so I couldn’t pass it up.

Black Hole 18 - 4 Sided Archery Target https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00806A4PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xxZtAbS436G9X

I have a Plano. And it’s nice. Albeit a little big. But the thing is invincible.

Plano Protector Compact Bow Case (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P40UJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_poezAbKK4CNK0

Cabellas has them on sale. I got 1 for 24.99 and 1 for 35 on amazon once.

Similar tip as above...

I go to Home Depot and buy a bucket of the roofing nails with plastic round cap made by grip rite.

The small orange cap is the same size as the bullseye and they make for a great “hang up” tool for paper targets.

Then I practice hitting the orange cap from 15,25,35

Link to item on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/1PRCAP1-Electro-Galvanized-Plastic-Grip-Cap/dp/B002YGNAM8/ref=asc_df_B002YGNAM8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193151859311&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7367166205312051879&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hv...

I got it off Amazon for $139. It's a Samick Sage, 35lbs. Got it with the stringer tool.

I'm liking it a lot so far!

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Samick-Takedown-Recurve-Archery-Right/dp/B01NCAJTYT/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540467341&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=samick%2Bsage%2Btakedown%2Brecurve%2Bbow&dpPl=1&dpID=515iNx4U0iL...

This one is $50 more, but it includes an upgraded string, you can choose your draw weight, is the appropriate size for your height, you can change the limbs when you're ready to move up, and includes the stringer. Also, it has tons of good reviews from many beginners (on Amazon and outside of Amazon).

There are other bundles out there for more that include a glove/tab, case, quiver, all kinds of accessories. (You need a glove or a tab, the rest are just nice bonuses.) Look at Southwest Archery, 3 Rivers Archery, and Lancaster. They are popular archery supply stores that have decent web stores and good customer service.

Arrows are a whole other thing. I bought my first bow back in November, and simply acquiring the right stuff is a hobby in itself.

https://www.amazon.com/Samick-Sage-Takedown-Recurve-50lb/dp/B007PD8B0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=samick%2Bsage%2Briser&qid=1603070552&sprefix=shamick&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Hello u/SnooMacaroons5921, it appears you tried to put a link in a title, since most users cant click these I have placed it here for you

^I ^am ^a ^bot ^if ^you ^have ^any ^suggestions ^dm ^me

> I can string my 40lb recurve by stepping through and having one end past my foot

Easy way to twist a limb and possibly hurt yourself. Buy a stringer. This is a good one for $16 that will last forever https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L9C7SQ/

That should hold up very nicely. I wonder if you could experiment with a burlap sack. Paint the circles on it and use it as the target (therefore not having to use paper targets). I bought this and I would think it’s a good model for doing it with the burlap sack

Link?

Edit: Was it this one?

You should get yourself a bow square so you can find out. It's an inexpensive and indispensable piece of kit. Use it to measure nock height and brace height, and (further along on your journey) measure your tiller. It's such an essential thing that lots of quivers have a dedicated slot for it.

Edit: $11.84 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Easton-Bow-Square-L-Black/dp/B00K97O8MK/

Thank you.

My only recommendation would be to make others awake of thumb protectors that are leather. Good for finger people, or newbies to make the transition into thumb draw. Like shooting gloves for the fingers, ultimately a tab will provide better overall consistency, just like a good thumb ring would provide.

A lot of people I’ve talked who want to learn horse bow archery, and also my new-to-archery students have gotten a horse bow, and thumb ring, only to get frustrated when using the ring.

This is why I recommend leather thumb protectors for starting out. It’s more of what most people who are familiar with archery would be used to. In my opinion, ones that are easily available are best, as you can practice shooting sooner.

Here is what I have used and recommend:

(I use this one daily, for competition and for recreation, actually own 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZZVBC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dGxuFbSQVTCVW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P1Y2W6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LQxuFbXABZNH5

I used amazon only because it’s fast. Please call a local archery shop, they might have thumb protection that’s the amazon ones. If they have them, please support local business.

Last thing for those starting their horse bow adventures, think about using electric or athletic tape on your bow hand, on the thumb, where the arrow will rest. This will prevent small cuts from the fletchings, caused by improper form. I personally used a horse riding glove on my bow hand and wrap the part that would get torn up with tape.

That’s all I’d like to add. :)

I would agree, I was shooting 500's full length, 38lbs on the fingers, 31" draw and they were too stiff, I changed to heavier points and they got close but ordered 600 spine anyway.

26" draw at about 22 lbs on the fingers call for much more flexible arrows. Almost 1200 spine.

https://i.imgur.com/Kh44rLI.png

This app will help

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vapeldoorn.arrows

30lbs - 15% for each inch under 28"

I installed Stealthy on chrome (I guess you can use FoxyProxy too) and was able to watch BBC iPlayer streams. Stealthy has a free proxy service and you can subscribe to a faster one for 5 Euros (~$6.20USD) FoxyProxy's is like $12 for a UK proxy.

Purchase this for a quick replacement.... cheap and easy. you have a 62" bow which requires a 58" actual length string. Look at Fast Flight string for an upgrade... Check to make sure your bow is compatible though.

If there's no height adjustment possible and it's fitted properly then I can only imagine you'd need to lower the D Loop/Nock point. Photographs are difficult to judge it from. When I set my bow up I used a bow square to align the nocking points so that the arrow is square with the centre of the Berger holes (the two holes in the riser ahead of the arrow rest). But I do have a height adjustable rest which allowed some fine tuning.

My coach recommended to me KiSik Lee's "Inside the Archer", and I haven't looked at any other guide since. For me, it's THE archery book, nothing else comes close. It focuses on technique, has lots of pictures for reference, and it really goes into detail explaining every aspect of your form.

It's also a great book to have when you're shooting solo and just need a reference guide.

Samick sage will be their closest bet new.$140 amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Samick-Sage-Takedown-Recurve-40lb/dp/B007O7Q2L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442948602&sr=8-1&keywords=samick+sage+bow

It is my personal opinion that archery manufacturers intentionally obfuscate specs on equipment to help brand loyalty and dealer sales.

That being said, I will repeat what I had posted earlier:
Android app called 'Arrows'

Disclaimer: I have no connection with this app or dev

If you have an android phone you can use Arrows.

Just set your draw weight, and desired arrow length and it'll tell you what spine to get, and which arrows are closest to it.

Not sure if Amazon links are allowed but this is the exact target I'm using rn. You could punch holes through it and hang it from a tree.
https://www.amazon.com/Aimdor-Archery-Target-Practice-Hunting/dp/B09LYG345R/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=2JEOF25ZQL5V6&keywords=aimdor+eva+foam&qid=1671522699&sprefix=aimdor+eva+foam%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-1

The biggest differently is the arrow head. Target heads are just rounded bits of metal, it looks like a bullet. Hunting heads are usually much bigger, and have several razor sharp wings coming out of them.

hunting

target

Here is my latest bow, before it was painted. It's a 35# recurve bow, with a little bit of reflex/deflex built in. It's made out of 1 inch schedule 40 PVC tubing that was heated with a heat gun and flattened with a 2 x 4 into a taper.

I learned how by watching Nick the BackyardBoyer's channel on YouTube. I also bought one of his books on Amazon. I've made a couple of 25 pound bows for my boys, and a couple of bows for myself. I'm really, really happy with the this one.

I've since spray painted the bow with a flat forrest green and added a grip by wrapping that part of the handle with 550 cord. I'm using 7/64" Amsteel Blue for the string (it only stretches about 1.5% at 1600 pounds, so I'm considering it zero stretch for this purpose).

Yesterday, I shot a bit and got a pretty good grouping from around 25 yards away. It wasn't as tight as the OP. I had five arrows grouped inside about a 6" circle, but I'll take it.

I backed away to 30 yards, but the results were not pretty. I'll keep practicing, and I'll try to start using about 25 yards as my base for a while, and extend to 30 every once in a while to stretch my abilities. I also drop back to 15 or 20 yards every once in a while to keep exercising my ability to judge distance.

are arrows interchangeable? This bow set has carbon arrows, another guy on kijiji is selling his arrrows pretty cheaply can i use that with this bow?

https://www.amazon.com/Storelli-Womens-1-Black-Medium/dp/B076X7H3ML/ref=sr_1_12?crid=2W5B91752SH97&keywords=chest%2Barmor%2Bwomen&qid=1668742240&sprefix=chest%2Barmor%2Bwomen%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1

Some armor to help with athletic exercise might help, but i'm not sure it'd fit... Maybe wear this under a heavy jacket? Like a carhart?

Since you’re fixed on tip weight, you’ll have to play with arrow length and insert weight. Getting a good tune will likely mean you have to compromise something though. I’d prioritize the criteria and build from there. An example:

1. minimum 28” arrow
2. 125 grain tip
3. 475 grains
4. 18% FOC

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07YFGST4Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So it's these arrows right here. They stay on the string and do fall off with a tap. I use gloves instead of a tab, and the problem might be the finger under the arrow moving up and pressing on the arrow as I draw

In this case you will need to get a custom string, I got some for my brother Christmas from, Shatterproof Archery Flemish Twist where he can get the right string for his bows, his 1970/1972 Bear Grizzly at 48 pounds that maxes out at 45 pounds I got a Darcon B-55 and same for a Ben Person Super Jet 62 inch Super Jet that is 50 pounds if you can get the draw length where it starts stacking back to 30 inches and This bow in green at 65 pounds https://www.amazon.com/Archery-Traditional-Longbow-25-100lbs-Recurve/dp/B0B1T33LDZ/ref=sr_1_1 as his strings, the English Longbow uses a cheap unstretched endless loop Dacron B-55 made quickly by machine that sucks to keep the cost down. I got all strings in the proper colors for him that would look best with each bow like bear I got a Black and Dark Tan for the Bear, the other I got was black and Light Tan/Kaki and Dark tan Ben Person and Light Tan/Kaki colors for the English longbow I show above. Then sell those strings if in great shape on E-bay or something.

Carbon arrows are hollow people insert: - arrow weight tubes - weed wacker line - nylon rope - salt - brass inserts

I prefer brass inserts, but you'll need to retune the arrows.

Oh, and for cutting the wraps, I use a craft cutter like this. I have a bunch of papercraft stuff around the house for other hobbies which works well for getting exact cuts of the vinyl.

Listen, I know everyone is saying no. And I've gotta say, this isn't the best...but if it's the MOST you can afford then do what you've gotta do. BUT if you have a slightly better budget, at least get one that isn't a toy.

My first bow was this one: Tongtu Takedown Recurve

Very cheap, and definitely not for long term use. This one is still probably more expensive then your ideal. My ex husbands first bow was this one: Sumpley Bow, also very cheap but is at least better than the one you've picked out.

What worked for me:

1. I started out with this wide-coverage arm guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYNVA8J/
2. Over time I improved my form and replaced it with a thinner one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFV4OBS/

I rarely even buzz against it now. The Easton one is so unobtrusive that I don't even feel it there but it IS there on the rare occasion I need it

I use this and it works well https://www.amazon.ca/Allen-Company-Molded-4-Strap-Armguard/dp/B003TX13CO/ref=sr\_1\_38?crid=1I8RKSVOIX4WH&keywords=full+arm+guard+archery&qid=1666735897&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=full+...

yeah I found this 5 dollar https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVE4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 bow string wax :)

I have to say as someone who shoots a lot...these cheapo ones are not too bad if you want to try out - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097TGD697?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1&psc=1

I normally shoot VAPs but I did try these for a budget option and they are not terrible. I can't vouch for other ones though.

I have the same crossbow with the same issue. Can you post the exact model # of the arrow retention spring from ten point? Is it this one below?

https://www.amazon.com/TenPoint-Crossbows-Replacement-Retention-HCA-109/dp/B003LLK3L6

I reccomend making your own. You get a better feel for your bow from the start. If you look around for designs a lot of longbows have a string in the center, so it can be shot right or left handed. I have this bow: http://www.instructables.com/id/Red-Oak-Pyramid-Bow/ Made it myself, spent maybe $25, that is without any extras on it, and it pulls about 45 pounds. Very easy to shoot, and very consistent. Eventually, you will learn exactly where the arrow will end up, as you are aiming. It will just come naturally. Best of luck!

Mechanically strip the wrap, wipe with Goo-Gone, then alcohol. Done.

I use commercial stripper tools; you can DIY that although I don't find the effort to be cost-effective vs. commercial strippers.

For binos, I've used an old pair of stabilized Canons with great results. Once you use a stabilized pair, you won't go back. They're not small, but you can one-hand them, even if you're old and shaky (ask me how I know).

For scopes, have to echo Ferrum: don't skimp on the tripod. It's all the difference, and even cheap scopes can shine with the right pod and mount.

• carbon shafts
• fletching
• inserts
• points
• nocks
• cool temp hot glue stick
• fire (a candle works good)
• super glue (most prefer gel, I like the runny stuff)

optional but helpful - fletching tape - a fletching jig

A jig helps a lot but is not necessary, Especially with fletching tape. My guide to fletching without a jig.

They're all over amazon/eBay/aliexpress under different brand names.

Junxing makes the "black hunter". It's just rebranded Mandarin Duck, Galaxy, Fleetwood and so on. It so popular that Chinese factories are just sticking the black hunter name on any old thing.

Today I learned there's a hotmelt.com. But anyway, look for these ones, these are what's typically used for putting together arrows.

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite - you use this on aluminum/wood arrows

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex - you use this on carbon arrows.

I've worked with both. The blue stuff melts very quickly and is quite runny once it's melted.

You melt the stick over an open flame (avoid using candles if at all possible), heat up the point/nock pin, lather on some of the liquid hot melt on the point/nock pin, and insert it into the arrow shaft. Quite a lot of videos on youtube on how to do this; NuSensei and Jake Kaminski have good videos.

Demmer has a long history of doing things that work for him, but are not recommended for other folks. It's like a good martial arts movie where the teacher insists on the rules until the student is experienced enough to know when to break them. For instance, not many people can pull off his fashion choices.

Viper1 is likely to echo things in this extensive guide to archery:
https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Stickbow-Practical-Approach-Classical-dp-1951985079/dp/1951985079

I've got it on my bookshelf, I reference it when I'm trying to solve a mystery.

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I recommend doing every safe experiment that you're interested in trying. Find out how it changes the shot. Seeing what effect is caused by each change will help you diagnose your equipment and technique down the road.

These are great thoughts; thank you everyone. I've been fascinated with the progression of development. Skills that, at first, require all of my concentration, are beginning to happen automatically. Which then frees up more "mind space" (concentration/awareness) to focus on a new thing. And then when that one becomes unconsciously proficient, more space appears to focus on the next thing.

This is a well-documented phenomenon, noted here, on Wikipedia, and perhaps my favorite of all time, Josh Waitzkin's Art of Learning. This is a must-read for anyone who remotely enjoys a conversation like this thread.

All the practice seems to lead to an ability to be very proficient while only thinking of one aspect (like the target). Give me a few more decades, and I'll report back!

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08JYSW2G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

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Super cheap, pretty much cheapest on Amazon. The bright orange makes it super easy to find the arrows the kids send in the grass. Seem super tough and since I am brand new (3 week old first bow) I figure the arrows still outperform me.

Hell I am still so new to archery I have done nothing for tuning the bow, not even the brace height yet. This season is all about form and conditioning.

It's the light band from a larger resistance band/home gym set. You can get the sets from Amazon, or occasionally from some sporting goods shops and supermarkets. They tend not to be from a major brand, and you might occasionally get a band that snaps, but they're relatively cheap and do the job. (Here's the first example I found on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0895RBSXN . I don't know if this particular set is any good, but most of them are the same generic set, just with the name and price tag changed every few months).

Try and rotate your elbow outwards when drawing the string back. The crook of your elbow should be pointing completely to the right (assuming you're right handed) and get one of these full arm guards. https://www.amazon.com/e5e10-Archery-Leather-Forearm-Protective/dp/B07F3YLLPB?dplnkId=9f74ebab-57fb-486e-be25-8a7485e5e9ba

>First link doesn't work for me where I'm at.

Odd. It's .019" "FLEX ARCHERY EVO15". https://www.amazon.co.uk/FLEX-Archery-Serving-String-EVO-15/dp/B085GKZD3S Is this better for dacron than the other stuff given its thinner? I use Easton 3D nocks which are designed for slightly thicker strings.

I didn't expect serving selection to depend so much on string material.

If we are talking finishing them once trapped, a typical cross bow is overkill. One of those 50# pistol crossbows might be an option. They should get the job done, but the cheap bolts they come with won't survive either. Amazon has them at $17 for 60. Cheaper than bullets. It looks like there are better bolt options available these days. Still not sure they would be usable again in your scenario.

There are the selway types that slide into the limb. Then there are the strap on types that wrap around the limb. They range from more nice expensive to cheapo $40 gambles.

Just need a squaring tool. something like this.

Have no idea on this rest, but looks like a good price

https://www.amazon.com/Trophy-Taker-X-Treme-Rest-Black/dp/B008J6TUAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1LBI1XUO8FQSU&keywords=limb+driven+arrow+rest&qid=1658793365&sprefix=limb+driv%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUX...