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I have a few remarks about this:

For a budget of $1500, a hex-core cpu is kinda underwhelming (also 11th gen intel processors are overrated :). If ur budget is pretty tight, here is an alternative cpu and motherboard choice: go with a 10700 or 10600 non k version. The price should be under $280, if not look somewhere else. Pair that with a b460 motherboard for around the same price as ur current motherboard.

Also get a 7200 rpm hdd. There is nothing wrong with having a hdd for bulk storage, but 5400 rpm is so slow. This hdd is 5 dollars more for so much better performance.

Yes thermal paste is a must, there are many good ones out there but the one I use is the arctic silver 5, it's got great thermals but a long set time until it's full capability kicks in (still does great immediately) link is here

I would call MSI to get a replacement part then or you can try your luck with these screws on Amazon, they’re for MSI mobos. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YTJ34Q9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Xht.Fb3BM1HEV

This should be good :)

Follow this: Win 10 Bootable USB via Mac

But when you get to step 4 run this command instead of the one it mentions there:

diskutil eraseDisk MS-DOS "WIN10" MBR /dev/disk2

No. That board might have the solder points for a 16x, but more than likely would not have the technology to support it. Even if there was some obscure adapter, it probably would not be found by the PC. If you insist though, you could always use a 16x to 1x adapter like is used for mining rigs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZCDKD6 I honestly would not recommend trying on a 16x card, the results would be horrible.

A 1660 Super has a Hashrate of 25.96MH/s. Using this calculator if you were to only draw 1 watt of power at $0.10/watt

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/btc?HashingPower=25.96&HashingUnit=MH%2Fs&PowerConsumption=1&CostPerkWh=0.10&MiningPoolFee=1

You would be loosing $0.002/day before the cost of the GPU.

With a pool fee of 1%, you are looking at a profit of $ 0.002686 / yr.

Ok gotcha, yep that'll likely be caused as you say by streaming and playing the game simultaneously. I just had to check if your board is compatible with 9th Gen intel processors beyond the 9100 you're sporting, but it is (https://pangoly.com/en/review/asus-prime-h310m-e/compatibility/cpu).

The chip above the i5 9600k is the i7 9700k, that's hopping from 6 cores up to 8 cores, but with gaming performance practically unchanged. It will be useful if you're a fan of doing something like having YouTube playing whilst streaming a game but otherwise it's a tad redundant. So I'd probably stick with the 9600k and look for upgrades in other areas with the remaining budget :)

3Dmark, there is a free demo but that's limited to just one type of benchmark if I'm not mistaken. It's on steam for $30,-. This is, in my opinion, the best one to test your hardware. It is a bit pricey if you are only going to use it once... But if you want to get into some overclocking then it will be definitly worth it.

https://www.userbenchmark.com/Software Userbenchmark is free, you can compare your stats with people running the same hardware. So you can check if it's performing better/similar/worse.

Command and Conquer came on 2 CD's from my memory. Been a minute since I played that game. I think one CD was one faction, and the second was the other, could also be a different C&C game but... I digress...

The problem with games of that era, is they were almost always tied to a certain type of hardware. A lot of the old games do not run on newer hardware, that's why we have DOS Box and Virtual Machines.

Windows 98 will install on new hardware, but there are a lot of games that won't like it. Sometimes they'll be too fast if they tied timers to the CPU cycles like back in the 286 days. Which is why we had a "turbo button" which turned your 386sx from 8MHz to a rockin' 16MHz!!!! ROAAAAAAAAR!

I miss those days.

So here is what DOS Box says: https://www.dosbox.com/comp_list.php?showID=234&letter=C

So it looks like it works with newer versions, so it is quite possible to get a 'newer' used machine from a recycle store and use DOSBox with it if the CD's don't work and the game won't run. Otherwise, you are going to be looking for something circa 2000's computer.

I would recommend going the DOS Box way, since it -can- be used for other things. But don't go spending more than $50-$80 on the tower. In this situation if nothing else will be done on the machine, it's better to go older which is usually cheaper. However, one caveat.

You will want to check out the specs on the machine. Avoid low-end CPUs which are flooding the market. Things like "Celeron" Intel CPUs which are entry-level bottom of the barrel processors designed for typing on wordpad only pretty much, or something listed as an i3 or AMD equivalent might be something like a Athlon II.

If your dad wants to chat, he can totally msg me and we can set up a call on discord. I use DOSBox for one game, and that is Street Rod :) It was a game I had on my old 386 PC back in the day. Love that game for some reason.

Could use a cloning software for the system like Macrium Reflect, it's pretty good

Or you can do this

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Get a Windows 10 Media Creation Tool, download it on your hard drive, run it and download W10 to your SSD

Go into your board's BIOS and set the SSD as the main boot drive

Reboot the PC, login into your Microsoft acount to reconfigure your license to the new drive so the activate watermark goes away

You can go:

MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK Gaming Motherboard (AMD AM4, DDR4, PCIe 4.0, SATA 6Gb/s, M.2, USB 3.2 Gen 2, HDMI/DP, ATX, AMD Ryzen 5000 Series processors) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CWDHFZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HW2VNFFSD9YDNGB8BNM3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Or any other B550 board really. I recommend this one because it’s pretty good bang for the buck and it’s compatible with the 5600G and other Ryzen 5000 series CPU’s if you ever wanna upgrade.

You can still use it if you get an adapter, but it will only run at 3.1 Gen 1 speeds, instead of 3.1 Gen 2 speeds.

They look like this: https://www.amazon.ca/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41

https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Hydraulic-Motherboard-Addressable-NT1207-5/dp/B08H89LXRM/ref=sr_1_75?dchild=1&keywords=argb%2Bfans%2Bwith%2Bcontroller&qid=1626107102&sr=8-75&th=1

you can buy these fans.. it comes with a controller.. connect all the fans to the controller.. then connect the sata power cable of the controller to the power supply.. then connect the 4 pin pwm cable of the controller to any fan header on your motherboard.. then plug the "reset sw" of your case to the controller.. this way you can control the fans by pressing the "reset sw" button on your case.. they have provided a nice diagram on how to connect everything.. does your case have a reset switch?

It's out of stock at the moment, but you will need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LEDdess-Rainbow-Controller-Strip-Remote/dp/B07JZCNPNV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=argb+controller&qid=1625908767&sr=8-4

Alright! It's stealth black themed and will work great. This would be the build in that case: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7bTkMv ($3500)

Ryzen 9 5900x (12 core, 24 thread processor): https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-5900X-24-Thread-Processor/dp/B08164VTWH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=5900xt&qid=1625420735&sr=8-1

2x16gb 3600mhz cl18 memory

Rx 6900xt

Great airflow case

280mm aio

1tb nvme m.2 ssd

This will be one of the most high end builds you can have. The 6900xt is one of the best graphics cards on the market right now. Same for the 5900x, the newest Ryzen 9 from Amd.

It comes with 2 argb intake fans, get one for excaust: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterFan-Addressable-Independently-Controlled/dp/B081W8Y4F7/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=cooler+master&qid=1624603465&sr=8-6

Looks to be a slimline SFXPSU for the Chicony, I'm not sure about the power connectors since many desktop manufacturers use different ports for CPU power and so on, but if you need a higher tier one, it will be a bit challenging as this looks to be OEM only and the dimensions are irregular so a new PSU to fit will be challenging

The dimensions for it are 20cm x 9cm x 5cm, so here is some PSUs that might fit

Silverstone SST

Silverstone FX350

You over spending on the case and ssd I would get a sata ssd they 75$ and still a great speed and I would highly highly recommend you get a amd ryzen 5 3600 and I would recommend 600-700 watt power supply it’ll allow for more upgrades check out this motherboard it’s better and the same price also used Gigabyte B550M AORUS PRO-P (AMD Ryzen 5000/B550/Micro ATX/M.2 Thermal Guard/HDMI/DVI/USB 3.2 Gen 2/DDR4/Motherboard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L74NCPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SWV5EPED7CMX8SHED395?psc=1 all of this will make a better pc and for the same price as the one you posted hopes this helps

wow thanks!! will everything fit in this case? https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08X1KVZ9M?pf_rd_r=KB8FTJAHM79KZQJ4Z9H0&pf_rd_p=4ba7735c-ede3-4212-a657-844b25584948&pd_rd_r=56fab2ed-544e-4862-a339-3dde073ca43a&pd_rd_w=Xiigz&pd_rd_wg=wz5gl&ref_=pd_gw_unk and i will get a gpu later will the 550 W still be enough then? and someone told me to only get gold or platinum certified power supplies

>WOW thank you sooo much :))) <33 will everything fit in this case? https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08X1KVZ9M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&amp;psc=1

After light research I think I'm going with this AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler with MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus Motherboard at Amazon.com

If It doesn't have a thread you are missing a standoff. there should be a hole in your case where you screw these in, If it is missing you probably have to take the mobo off and install it. Sometimes cases dont put all of them in because of different form-factor mobos

Yeah my friend has it and it good other than the bios but your not in there alot and I get a 500gb m.2 for windows and most use programs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BGWNY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gv4.Fb2S7YKX1 like this is good

I don't see a lot of issue, other than that the motherboard is a little low imo. For that kind of CPU and GPU you will probably want a better motherboard. Also as for RAM, a really popular one I see in a lot of builds here is the Corsair Vengeance LPX: https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Vengeance-PC4-28800-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07RM39V5F/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=corsair+16gb+ram&amp;qid=1604102434&amp;sr=8-4

Everything else is fine but the CPU comes with a cooler and its good enough if your not overclocking so you can get rid of the thermal past and CPU cooler, i also found a power supply.Its an EVGA 500W PSU

your ram is 113 euro which is expensive get this instead 3600mhz with cl 16 CRUCIAL BALLISTIX 2X8GB

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC4-28800-Optimized-Memory/dp/B07TC4TPCN/ref=asc_df_B07TC4TPCN/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=366315306136&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=14137398227719095850&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvq...

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B084JPFKQ5/ref=as_li_ss_tl?pd_rd_w=bqvOI&amp;pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&amp;pf_rd_r=TCVTT8SZCPJWKM1AJHAT&amp;pd_rd_r=a303ceaa-6cec-498f-95f0-5d36bf386eb6&amp;pd_rd_wg=X2zi3&amp;pd_rd_i=B07NFMSGGR&amp;refRID=TCVTT8SZCPJWKM1AJHAT&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=fadingred-20&amp;linkId=6ba85e0030da3282c0b386e49fe70931&amp;th=1 this one on amazon seeems like it would do the job.

I have never herd of that brand of ram. I suggest u go with this one: https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-RipJaws-PC4-28800-CL16-19-19-39-F4-3600C16D-16GVKC/dp/B07X8DVDZZ/ref=sr_1_14?crid=3O491TJVPHKWU&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=16gb+ddr4&amp;qid=1591828833&amp;sprefix=16+GB+Ddr%2Caps%2C258&amp;sr=8-14

ps: they usually cost about the same I just saw u were using amazon so I put this

Cooler Master MCM-H500-IGNN-S00 MasterCase ATX Mid-Tower w/ Tempered Glass Side Panel, Transparent/ Mesh Front Option, Carrying Handle And 2x 200mm RGB Fans w/RGB Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRVHBWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yg0QEbADGEPXZ I would recommend this case I have one it comes with glass or mesh face and two 200m fans and an exhaust fan. Half psu cover and lots of space to put anything you need. It’s always listed in the top 5 best budget cases. It’s out of stock on amazon rite now but look around you may find one for $100 or less. Also that gpu requires min of 650w so you aren’t leaving yourself any head room if you decide to add any extra power to cpu or gpu. But that’s up to you.

Look closely at the CPU coolers, it's definitely different and the OPs couldn't handle a 1700x. It's the same model line but definitely not the same model with the specs in your link. It's probably the model that has a R5 1400 and RX 570 like this.

Are you talking about this?

Thumb screws for your glass panel is what some people call it.

Buy them here: https://www.amazon.com/YATENG-Thumbscrews-Personality-Modification-beautification/dp/B07PFL6VXC/ref=asc_df_B07PFL6VXC/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=475789631743&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=9815616295804928683&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9061234&amp;hvtargid=pla-1018468202331&amp;psc=1

They won't match the ones you have. You should be able to buy the original ones on Corsair website or ebay.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6JPK4K?psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp is this the correct one?

Why, yes, yes you can. Just use a USB Bluetooth dongle. 50,000+ happy customers can't be wrong: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1SZCY6?&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=phreakwarpc-20&amp;linkId=09ed43db9a62eb5375b9f7a614aa4b15&amp;language=en_US&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Don't use the USB adapter. Get something like THIS instead. I bought those for my SFF build (because I hated the ASUS antenna) and they work perfectly. In either rate, you want to use the fastest USB available. Location is your preference.

I agree with this, not because there's anything wrong with the DRP4, but because every degree gives the 7000 series more headroom to boost.

They're the first generation that a 420mm aio may not be considered overkill but desirable, even if there's diminishing returns past 320mm

Would also go for this thermal paste on a build of this tier

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R6QG2CQ

https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Extension-Sleeved-Braided-4PIN-30CM/dp/B082WVQP5T

These are extensions so you plug them into the cables. Then you can hide the ugly PSU cables in the back of your case. Do NOT plug them into the power supply.

this should work pretty good and for what it is its relatively cheap

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WRJ5MQW?tag=tech4gamers08-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1

Instead of getting a 970 evo, just get the cheapest 1tb m.2 you can find. Right now it's this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZGJVTZK?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1. It's $40 cheaper than the 970 evo. other than that, rest looks passable

7,200 RPM is pretty standard for an HDD but even a 10,000RPM hdd will be a lot slower then some of the worst SSDs

Get an m.2 ssd like this https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-MZ-V8V1T0B-AM-980-SSD/dp/B08V83JZH4

Is this one good? Prob the limit of my budget https://www.amazon.com/MasterWatt-Semifanless-Modular-Certified-Computers/dp/B074ZKXM72/ref=sr_1_1?crid=CLLZ4LR2THPZ&amp;keywords=Antec+psu&amp;qid=1669930874&amp;refinements=p_36%3A5000-7000%2Cp_89%3ACooler+Master&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=antec+psu%2Celectronics%2C92&amp;sr=

Go with AIO. You are choosing highest end processor. Ableton will make it work hard and aircooler will not be sufficient. 240mm or 360mm is what you want. I can recommend https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Liquid-Freezer-All-One/dp/B07WSDLRVP?th=1

Good and the same price as that noctua.

I would never buy a HDD that’s smaller than 2tb, and wouldn’t recommend one until getting into the range of 3-5tb.

I strongly recommend a solid state drive, particularly an M.2 if your pc can afford it.

these are pretty good SATA ssd’s (1tb) or if your MLB has an M.2 slot take a look at these 1tb M.2 ssd’s. They will work significantly better than that mechanical drive and should last you a good deal longer.

corsair Be Quiet

This is the cpu cooler I have but I have a 3070ti intel i9900k and it works pretty well. The biggest thing about cooling your first PC is fan placement make sure you have proper exhaust and intake areas that suite your environment well

You can. You could use something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Thsion-Synchronous-Multiple-Adapter-Connector/dp/B08F9WGLP2?tag=lsmedia-11155-20

Basically, you connect a sata power cable from the 1st supply (main), which is the one in the computer and powered on by the ON button.

Then you plug in the 24 pin connector of the 2nd power supply.

Next connect power cables from the 2nd power supply to whatever you wish to power.

When you push the ON button of the computer, the 1st power supply comes on and then when this adapter senses voltage on the sata power cable it trips the pins in the 24 pin connector to power up the 2nd power supply.

I fucking hate the ad post with affiliate links.

But this monitor is really, really good for $248. So here's a clean direct link to amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/HP-27-inch-Adjustment-FreeSync-Technology/dp/B0949KL83T

2tb nvme on sale for a good ass price, will easily outperform that 870

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-Internal-Gaming-MZ-V8P2T0B-AM/dp/B08RK2SR23/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3PGTN6OZ5O0F8&amp;keywords=2tb%2Bsamsung%2Bssd&amp;qid=1669218170&amp;sprefix=2tb%2Bsamsung%2Bss%2Caps%2C95&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.08f69ac...

Firstly, thanks for replying to two of my posts about this. I have this one MSI Radeon RX 6900 XT and PCPartPicker is saying it's all fine and ready to go.

That molex adapter wouldn't work.

Another option is a USB 2.0 to USB 3.0 adapter like this.

The downside is that two of your ports will be running at USB 2.0 speeds.

Thunderbolt works on a completely different technology as compared to USB 3.0. Plus, that header seems to be propreitary to MSI.

For the moment, you can get an expansion card like this that plugs into the PCIe x1 slot.

Also, you can find some decent wifi analyzer mobile apps that can help you determine & tweak the signal exactly where your computer is. Android one I use linked

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=abdelrahman.wifianalyzerpro

Does not have it unfortunately.

You can get an adapter right here

There aer Powerline adapters that allow you to connect your computer via ethernet by using your home's electrical wiring:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-1000-Gigabit-PL1000-100PAS/dp/B01BYKITU2/ref=asc\_df\_B01BYKITU2

At one point I had a Phanteks case with 4 drive bays but it's like $140 now.. Here is a cheap, no bells or whistles case with 3 if you're not looking to spend a lot. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VGJDDHF/

That card is old. It's 802.11n/b/g. Get at least WIFI 6 they aren't that expensive

Disagree with the above user: brand isn't very important with pcie cards while the wifi chipset these cards use is important. Sort of like how motherboards have many brands but the chipset is what determines the capabilities of the product. Software/drivers are provided by intel. Routers are different because brand will have a bigger impact on the software, warranty, user experience, build quality etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-5400Mbps-Wireless-Ultra-Low-Supports/dp/B07XM6XZ1F

This one supports the latest wifi standards and uses an intel chipset which is ideal.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VG27VH1B-Supports-Adaptive-sync-FreeSync/dp/B088MKB54B/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=1080p+144hz+monitor&amp;qid=1668690726&amp;sr=8-8and that's a pretty good monitor i found if you have anything you'd like to change you can tell me but i think its a good 1080p low and medium PC!

Appreciate the comment and I'll definitely look into a better cooler, do you think a liquid cooler would be better for these parts? I'm really looking for something on the quieter side and I was eyeballing this one

I have a Corsair H100i and this is my first pc so I only have experience with that type of cooler I'm pretty new to the type of coolers that don't mount to the case with fans and the differences between the 2.

The motherboard doesn't have a usb c header. If you don't need USB C it doesn't matter, you don't have to plug it in. If you need USB C you can get a PCIe card to add USB C.

If you wanted to retain a pink theme, this micro atx case from Vetroo would also be a good choice

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-PCIe-Internal-Gaming-MZ-V8P1T0B/dp/B08GLX7TNT/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2NXHNL0SMK7I9&amp;keywords=m.2+nvme+pcie+4&amp;qid=1668295047&amp;sprefix=m.2+nvme+pcie+4%2Caps%2C150&amp;sr=8-3

It's not a stupid question, in fact it would be a fun little hack to do. Pretty easy really. The number one issue is RGB control. Typically you'd want a Lighting node or Commander for Corsair products, which would require a USB connection to control. However, just the RGB itself is typical 5v/data/ground. You could rig up a 5v RGB controller using the controller that comes with these DDR covers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVFM4TJ That would give you the RGB control. Then, you'd wanna convert that to something Corsair can interface with. Solved with an adapter from PirateDogTech https://piratedog.tech/collections/rgb-adapters/products/corsair-rgb-to-aura-mystic-light-motherboard-a-rgb-adapter you'd interface that adapter into a Corsair RGB fan hub, plug the fans in, and VIOLA!! I have other methods too, but that would probably be cheapest.

I would favor the Corsair 7000D simply for the full mesh front over the other two, it should yield the best thermal performance. I think they're also known to be easy to build in which is a plus.

As far as CPUs go, buy the best that your budget can afford. With that said tho, I think the newer i7 13700k makes sense in a lot of regards. Single core performance like gaming is close enough to the 13900k while saving a big chunk of cash. Solid multi core performance uptick from the previous 12700k chip as well, which I reckon would be good for your Autodesk program. For gaming alone I'd even recommend the 13600k but the 13700k makes more sense for your needs.

You mentioned you multitask a lot. The CPU will of course come into play, but the available total memory will matter the most. I'd aim for 32GB of RAM since you do CAD design which will benefit from more memory.

Cooling wise, it's up to you whether you want liquid or air cooling. Yeah, air cooling is easier to maintain and install. I'd recommend sticking with higher end air coolers like the Noctua NH-D15 or Dark Rock Pro 4. These should do a fine job.

I haven't personally used liquid, but I hear the general consensus is the Arctic Liquid Freezer II line is the best value and build quality. I'd look there.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-RM850x-Fully-Modular-Supply/dp/B08R5JPTMZ/

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i think 4? not sure didn't count them all myself

Coming back to this thread to just link this USB-C to USB 3.0 header adapter. If you don't have the necessary USB-C header this may just work, provided you have an extra USB 3.0 header on your board.

nope dont worry

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if you want a 2.5 or 3 slot card yo ucan get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/ADT-Link-90Degree-Extension-R11SL-TL-Extender/dp/B07T9M3GYX/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=pci-e%2B1x%2Bextender&amp;qid=1667439244&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjAxIiwicXNhIjoiMi40MiIsInFzcCI6IjEuODQifQ%3D%3D&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1

If you have an avalible pcie spot just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/AMPCOM-Adapter-40Gbps-Desktop-Speed/dp/B0876MLNY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3QRVF0R77ZKZ3&amp;keywords=pcie+to+m.2&amp;qid=1667314538&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjU0IiwicXNhIjoiMy45OCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTEifQ%3D%3D&amp;sprefix=pcie+to+m%2Caps%...

They are designed to work like this should be fine. You can can get a heatsink of amazon too if yah want.

If you're looking for cheaper options, I've been quite happy with my mic/boom arm combo. Granted I don't use it for professional recording though, however if you were I'd imagine you wouldn't be looking for something cheaper than a blue yeti.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0875T3D9R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Connector-Strips-12inch-4Splitter/dp/B072K21JVF/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=1WEH930O70FIC&amp;keywords=4+pin+rgb+splitter&amp;qid=1666998509&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM4IiwicXNhIjoiNC4yOSIsInFzcCI6IjQuMzMifQ%3D%3D&amp;sprefi...

as long as you know which pinouts are which you should be able to connect the 5 pin connector to the motherboard with a couple of male to female connectors like these

thanks, I found some other phanteks ones that come with a diffuser, will these work? It says theyre 5 V so does that mean I can only plug in two fo them. Sorry Im not sure how this works so if its a dumb question lol

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-Digital-RGB-Strip-Combo-PH-NELEDKT\_CMBO/dp/B07XV5TT1F/ref=pd\_rhf\_d\_sc\_s\_pd\_sbs\_rvi\_sccl\_2\_1/138-3699351-9252527?pd\_rd\_w=RDRGX&amp;content-id=amzn1.sym.c4b12d63-26ee-451b-a00e-167063525dc5&amp;pf\_rd\_p=c...

That motherboard (excellent choice btw) supports a 12v (with a max of 3A load) 5050 RGB Strips.

Here is an example of what you're looking for. Feel free to browse for other things but.. as long as you stay within the volt and amp limits of the RGB ports, you should be fine.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HUFMIZ2

What you are also looking for is called a "Diffuser" for the strips. Most of them don't come with it and you may have to DIY your own if it isn't a 'kit' thing. Just make sure that the ecosystem is supported by the MSI software. (So no iCue lights or whatever Thermaltake is calling theirs nowadays).

The motherboard also has 5V Rainbow RGB headers, so you could also find an addressable RGB Strip with a built-in diffuser for that one as well. Just make sure that you connect things to the right headers. Whatever one you go with.

might've found one lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25MJ1YT?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_VW0DVJQG3BZSY4P9Y94B&amp;th=1

idk for sure

Everything about this build is good. The only improvement you could do is change the SSD to the Teamgroup MP34. The MP34 has a DRAM cache which speeds the SSD up in some scenarios. You could also upgrade the ssd to 2TB so you don't have to delete games as often but it's not needed.

No I don't think that would work I don't think your motherboard has enough power to power speakers . I'm saying buy something like 3 of these cables https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0 and connect them to the Input labeled DVD on your speakers. Or you can just buy one and just plugged them into Line out on the PC and AUX on the speakers but you would only get Stereo sound.

You can buy the mounting bracket for 10€. Overclocking will not make it faster than a new CPU.

pc case
cpu cooler fans is just the one that are included for the amd ryzen 7 (gen 3) ;-;

They are antennas , and you can mount them with anything non conductive ( Velcro, tape, glue).

Personally I Go with a better nic Like https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC51-Wireless-Dual-Band-Adapter/dp/B075SWSN32/ref=asc_df_B075SWSN32/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=309776868400&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5192425285280342233&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&a...

I couldn't find an adapter but if you buy something like this you could drill out the holes and make it compatible maybe?

its a laptop sata adapter. you can get something like this:

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/Slimline-Adapter-Serial-Female-Desktop/dp/B07RBPPB1Z/ref=sr\_1\_9?crid=37B84DS715OP6&amp;keywords=7%2B6+13Pin+Slimline+SATA+to+sata&amp;qid=1665547013&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjk0IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&amp;s...

Some Background: I had bought this prebuilt pc about a year ago, and the cpu started to overheat. I took the aio off to replace the thermal paste, but it didn’t work. I just want it back to how it was so I can get customer support. I appreciate any help I get!

cooler model

I use these almost always by default: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GSCJPMD I have used them on at least a dozen builds so far https://builds.gg/phreakwarpc Super easy to hook up, price is decent.

ARGB Strip

Get these or these. Don't use any adapters. Keep using only 1 connector per cable like you do it right now. With the cable extensions it will look better. They will also make your 24 pin look better as it is very ugly rn

You don't need a new motherboard for that

Amazon, $13 extendable .

https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Brace-Support-Holder-Bracket/dp/B09FPJL1KY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gpu+support&amp;qid=1664875968&amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjQyIiwicXNhIjoiNC44OCIsInFzcCI6IjQuNTkifQ%3D%3D&amp;sr=8-3

Yeah, this is a USB header cable. You're probably already using it to connect the front panel USB ports to the board.

You are looking for a 9 pin usb header splitter or pci card. Here's a splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Motherboard-Extension-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B085KVH16T/ref=sr\_1\_3

If I were building AM4 right now, I'd be getting this monster.

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-MEG-X570S-MAX-Motherboard/dp/B09GLBW5LL/

(one on sale obviously/returned, obviously)

I'd also be swapping the ram out for 2x8 viper 16 straight 4000 mhz (samsung b-die), put some active cooling on that and crank the dials

https://www.amazon.com/KOORUI-FreeSyncTM-Compatible-Ultra-Thin-24E4/dp/B09TTDRXNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa_vo_sr_b_dp?keywords=144hz+monitor&amp;qid=1664200237&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ALR6UZJS8XOC3&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyM0NSR... this is from my region, so idk about yours but it should do

Why is your 3090 ti $1700? They're going for like $1100 on Newegg and Amazon

https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-3090-ti-rtx-3090-ti-gaming-x-trio-24g/p/N82E16814137728

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Graphics-DisplayPort-Full-Coverage-Radiator/dp/B09WPJQN3C/ (this one has built in water cooling with an AiO for less money)

I suggest to invest in a 3D printer and work your way from there. I’m assuming you have one and just need the electrical parts. The restart button thing might need to be scrapped from an old pc. Or maybe THIS will work? Forgot if the restart wire is 1 or two pins.

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Computer-Switch-Reset-Button/dp/B081VGC6VT/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?crid=2CYGQDXWH2VNP&amp;keywords=pc+power+button&amp;pscroll=1&amp;qid=1663666859&amp;sprefix=Pc+powe%2Caps%2C248&amp;sr=8-20&amp;wIndexMainSlot=28 Something like this?

here is my monitor recommendation btw

You'll need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DGZZI-Backplane-Heatsink-Motherboard-Mounting/dp/B084GQFFBY/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B084GQFFBY&amp;psc=1

..but I'd recommend getting a better cooler regardless of how it's mounted to your motherboard

Is this the correct one that you sent that i should get https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Power-Supply-100-Ba-0600-K1/dp/B08BNRGWXZ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KUM4MYPOS6LN&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;useRedirectOnSuccess=1&amp;path=%2FEVGA-Bronze-Power-Supply-100-Ba-0600-K1%2Fdp%2FB08BNRGWXZ%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fcrid%3DKUM4MYPOS6LN&amp;keywords=evga+600+ba%2C+80+plus+bronze+600w%2C+power+supply+100-ba-0600-k1&amp;qid=1663518828&amp;sprefix=evga+600+ba%2C+80+plus+bronze+600w%2C+power+supply+100-ba-0600-k1%2Caps%2C98&amp;sr=8-1

I plan on ordering this next week, has anyone here ordered this before?

Here is a link to thee product https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-TechMagnet-Siwa-Speakers-Keyboard/dp/B09Z75XR1Y?ref_=ast_sto_dp#customerReviews

This would be a solid upgrade over the 1650. You might have to upgrade your PSU, i have used that one in 4 different builds for friends. I dont think you will need any extra cables. If you are upgrading your MOBO, A ryzen 7 would be a good option.

dump the Gskill ram

Get these

https://www.amazon.com/Viper-Steel-4400MHz-Performance-Memory/dp/B07KXLFDL6/

These are Samsung B-die, those are hot garbage.