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/r/VIZIO_Official's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/VIZIO_Official:
![[Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 6.6 ft / 2m with 8K@60Hz, 4K@240Hz and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41SKMp24UIL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/VIZIO_Official:
Roku
iOS
Slickdeals
The Next Web
YouTube TV
Pi-hole
Fast.com
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/VIZIO_Official:
Web Video Cast | Browser to TV (Chromecast/DLNA/+)
VIZIO SmartCast™
The most popular reviews in /r/VIZIO_Official:
Find a chair leg floor protector to go under the legs, something like this, or a regular TV Stand
I’ll drop this in here for anybody interested. I kinda wish I could get it but my 2016 p series works just fine.
I got these! The cords do not fit inside but I wrapped them around and it looks fine.
There is an amazon link with 2 in stock: https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-5-1-2-Theater-Sound-Dolby/dp/B08TV6GJF7/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=vizio+5.1.2+h6&qid=1622878754&sr=8-1
It's a new product link, all questions on the page are from 2021, model number is listed as "Item model number M51a-H6"
However, this is sold by a third party which raises a red flag, possibly an older model they're passing off as the new one.
Sure! I got this one. Only minor issue I’ve had is that the TV won’t recognize the Apple TV as a CEC source to turn on when the Apple TV wakes - but it will turn off when doing Sleep from the ATV. Little quirks like that, but infinitely better than the sound issues.
I love my tv stand. I would buy it again.
Universal Swivel TV Stand/Base Table Top TV Stand 40 to 80 inch TVs 110 Degree Swivel, 5 Level Height Adjustable, Heavy Duty Tempered Glass Base, Holds up to 132lbs Screens, HT04B-003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZYWXC56/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_HnHcGbJAMWVE0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I believe it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2BFYLC9D7P7HN&keywords=switch+ethernet&qid=1553799444&s=gateway&sprefix=switch+e%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-16
Yeah, I agree about SmartCast. I put up with it though because I'm really happy with the picture and audio quality. I don't spend too much time in it, usually go straight to Netflix/Amazon/Plex.
I found a way to finally get HDR pass-through working as long as you're willing to spend $56. I purchased this hdmi splitter from Amazon for something else but somehow I'm now able to pass 4k60hz, HDR & Atmos signal from the Shield TV to the Vizio soundbar then to a Samsung Q8FN with it. Give it a try!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will need about 59" of clearance to be able to have tv fit with the legs right on it. I would do an even 60" just to give it space.
My table was not long enough but it is a fairly nice one and would cost more to replace it so I purchased these and they work really well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YN7VRK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
See if your model number is listed on this one
I have 2 Vizio TV's. The remotes that came with them fell apart. Found these on Amazon for $6.48. I bought several. They worked on an older one that went bad. Works fine with the new one I just bought.
Yea I feel your pain believe me. The TCL picture wise will not be near as good. Just tossing that out there.. shame really because I really enjoyed the Vizio picture quality... Which left me in a pickle. To get equivalent I was gonna have to spend more money.. like lots more.. Samsung's are all edge lit, LG is pretty much trash except the oled's... So here I am with the Sony. I only mentioned the deal cause i figured 1599 was close to what you had in the pq65.
TCL is a better value at the 55",. You get alot for the price but the picture quality is no where near comparable to a p65 let alone a pq65.
I hope it all works out for ya. If you do decide to stick with the pq65 you might be able to get them to price match Sam's club.. right now they have this huge deal on the pq65. Sam's club is currently running it for 1499. I'm not sure what you paid at Best buy but I'm guessing more than that. If u can return and get them to price match that might make it a little more bareable https://slickdeals.net/f/11951651-vizio-65-model-pq65-f1-p-series-quantum-4k-hdr-smart-tv-500-off-free-shipping-1499-ymmv?utm_campaign=11951651&utm_medium=firetweet&utm_source=twitter
Look here.
This one on Amazon appears to be an OEM XRS321-C remote.
The link button is on the basic remote. The image of the remote you posted is not a basic remote. This is what the basic remote looks like: https://www.amazon.com/XRT132-Remote-Control-Vizio-M50-D1/dp/B01LFUGYE4
With the remote you posted, seems like you'll just want to go into the TV menu and change the network settings to get it reconnected to the network.
Check this link and see if Amazon will let you make monthly payments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RMRNSBF/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr
I just bought a LG C2 and Amazon had an option for 12 monthly payments.
If it has smartcast you can use the app.. but you can definitely find a remote on Amazon they are interchangeable..
https://www.amazon.com/XRS531-Soundbar-Control-Applicable-SB3621n-E8/dp/B07W7PFYVP
Find one that looks the same it will work
These are the cables I'm using. Maybe this will help, but check for any bypass turned on your LG. Everytime I turn it on I get a delayed sound too.
If all you're using it for is a computer monitor, I'd recommend looking at anything D series with an hn after the screen size (I.E D32hn-E4 Link) $149.99 on Amazon Pre-Owned.
Just some generic one from amazon. I plug eArc out from tv into it, then plug the extractor into the soundbars input port (not the arc port). It allows me to have uncompressed TrueHD Atmos instead of just DD+ Atmos. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093K6FHQM
Amazon is selling the display remote for the V series. check this out:
I bought these to use with my M512:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HZHUCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are great and come with little velcro ties to secure the speaker wires to the poles on the stand for a neat/tidy look.
I got switch from amazon ROOFULL HDMI Switch
All my devices connect to this and then a single HDMI from the switch to the Soundbar. The Soundbar output to the TV and that’s it!
Here is the link to the one that I bought from Amazon:
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft, 4K120 8K60 144Hz eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X RTX 3080 PS4 PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZ8V78S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ED77FM6A5EAY7E27NNBT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I almost bought the same one that you posted in your link, but ended up not because of the reviews. If a chord truly supports 48 Gbps speeds, it will be labeled as "certified ultra high speed". Premium high speed is the next lower level, and then high speed the next lower level after that. Hopefully that helps.
Is #1 the case with the M512a-h6?
And if so what HDMI cables on Amazon that you know are actually "Ultra High Speed" HDMI cables?
Are these ultra high speed HDMI cables? These are ones I got.
Limited-time deal: 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 48Gbps 6.6FT/2M, Highwings High Speed HDMI Braided Cord-4K@120Hz 8K@60Hz, DTS:X, HDCP 2.2 & 2.3, HDR 10 Compatible with Roku TV/PS5/HDTV/Blu-ray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M9HND4F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_dl_WCTBPXKP6CDQZ24QSH7Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
BlueRigger 4K HDMI CEC Less... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFL8TM8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
OREI eARC 4K 60Hz Audio Extractor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094PPVKFL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If I had the money I would have bought an hd fury arkana.
It’s crazy seeing these same posts for a year+ now. Can’t believe it hasn’t been addressed or fixed. I found a stopgap solution though that I posted in another thread about this issue and hopefully it helps anyone -
Ended up buying an HDMI (this one) splitter with an optical out for my Apple TV 4k. Now the HDMI from the ATV runs into the splitter, and then another HDMI on the other end into the TV, and the output optical/toslink into the soundbar. To no surprise, the the audio dips and what not have all completely disappeared.
Only limitation I've experienced is no Dolby Vision on the ATV which at this point i'll take consistent sound over. HDR still works great.
(Newest Version) ROOFULL 5 Port 4K HDMI Switch with Remote Premium 5 in 1 Out UHD 4K@60Hz HDMI 2.0 Switch Box Selector, Support Dolby Vision/ Atmos, HDCP 2.2, HDR 10, Auto-Switch, 18Gbps, CEC, 1080P https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083NWKPXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_JNKHKC89TQZHYN251BDN
I have this one and it’s rock solid. The absolute key features are 1. Ability to turn off auto-switch so that you manually control it and 2. Independent power to the switch.
I tried a different one because I wanted to try and mount behind the Tv without more power cords and it was a disaster - the auto switch caused endless chaos with the soundbar. Every time it would switch the soundbar would try and interpret it as a eARC signal and it would switch off HDMI. So many devices are “always on” so it just switches endlessly.
I use this one and it works really well. I opted for manual switch as I’ve had problems with auto switching on others. I have an Xbox Series S and an Apple TV 4K (2021) going through to sound bar. It passes through Dolby Vision, Atmos, etc.
CABLEDECONN HDMI Ultra HD 8K 2.1 High Speed 48Gbps Directional Switch Only 2in 1out 8K@60Hz 4K@120Hz Converter Compatible with Xbox PS5 Projectors Monitors
No , I replaced the speaker with a different brand one. The problem was still there . The rumbling was slightly quieter though . This is the speaker I used to replace
I bought these, they are awesome for the price. I'm receiving my M512 tomorrow, I have these stands ready. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BMFQ9C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_HV8JKHNXJ98CXDBY9YSG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They're not currently available, but I used these w/ my Vizio surrounds:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000289DC6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_N0ET6NBE6AYW7KXEJ61M
I've been happy with these cable concealers. Also just a tip, don't mount the rear speakers too high. They should be just above head level.
125" Cord Hider - One-Cord Channel Cable Concealer - Cord Cover Wall - Easy Install Cable Management System Home Office - Cable Hider Raceway Kit for Small 1-2 Wire - 8X L15.7 W0.59 H0.4, CMC03 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8WVJWF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QYVVNABZZF6EQ4QAATEA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have my audio set to “pass through” on the tv and have some inexpensive hdmi2.1 cables as well.
Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RFQPSP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Do you notice that the audio lags on ALL formats or just Atmos?
Sanus Adjustable Height Speaker Stand - Extends 28" to 38" - Holds Satellite & Small Bookshelf Speakers (i.e. Bose, Harmon Kardon, Polk, JBL, KEF, Klipsch, Sony and Others) - Set of 2 - Model: HTBS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HZHUCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BB4W1GNZ1994CT2F0J4C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pwr Extra Long 12 Ft 2 Prong Polarized-Power-Cord for Vizio-LED-TV Smart-HDTV E-M-Series and Others 2 Slot Adapter-AC-Wall-Cable: IEC-60320 IEC320 C7 to NEMA 1-15P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STU4UWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TSQ4MXD4CEYAH3BJ0JAQ
I have those and the wires go thru no issues.
Atlantic Adjustable Height Speaker Stands Black - Set of 2 Holds Satellite Speakers, Adjustable Stand Height from 27 to 48 inch, Heavy Duty Powder Coated Aluminum with Wire Management PN77305018 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000289DC6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QV7PBBX2M820R114CZN
I've figured out how I finally got it to work, it's pretty long and convoluting. I actually ran two HDMI cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NXV3ZR/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) between the receiver and TV. HDMI MAIN (ARC) went into HDMI 1 (arc 60hz) on my TV, and HDMI SUB went to HDMI 3 (120hz) on my TV. I turned on eARC on my tv (side note a firmware update on my tv makes it so sometimes I need to go into this menu and turn it off then on for whitenoise to go away and for it to work, this should be fixed with a firmware update), I set CEC on the TV to on, and set the receiver to the following all on the same screen (HDMI CEC ON - HDMI Standby Through AUTO - Audio TV out ON - Audio Return Channel (earc supported ON - and Auto Lip Sync - ON). I set the two inputs on the receiver with PS5 and XSX (using the respective cables that came with them) to 8K enhanced. I then set the receiver to use HDMI OUT SUB.
With these exact settings my TV displayed XSX and PS5 in full 4k 120 (RGB) with XSX available VRR through TV input 3. I briefly tried using HDMI out main for eARC from built in smartcast apps by switching on smartcast on the tv and input TV on the receiver with a Disney + atmos movie, and it seemed to work. I need to play around with this a bit more to see if I can leave the receiver on HDMI out sub+main all the time, and just use input 3 on the TV for 4k120 PS5 and XSX, and ARC through input TV on the receiver for built in smartcast apps, and I will see what input (1 or 3) works best for my nvidia shield, 4k blu-ray, amazon fire tv cube, and apple tv 4k.
Thanks for your response.
I actually found an article that solved the problem; I was outputting at 30hz per my windows settings. The relevant quote is below, maybe someone might find it useful as well.
"*Right click on your desktop and select Display Settings.
Make sure the resolution is set to 4K (3840 x 2160)
If the screen feels a little choppy, tap on Display Adapter Properties at the bottom of the Window.
A new Window will open up. Navigate to the ‘monitor tab’ and then select 60Hz as the refresh rate. If you don’t see a 60hz setting, chances are your adapter or your computer doesn’t support it.*"
https://thenextweb.com/gadgets/2017/10/01/use-4k-tv-pc-monitor/
I got this off Amazon and it worked perfectly. I have my soundbar hanging under my tv but the extra parts allow a bunch of different configurations. From what it sounds like mounting it on top might be your best bet.
I got these stands for my setup
PERLESMITH Speaker Stands Extend 30-45 Inch with Upgraded Cable Management, Hold Satellite, Small Bookshelf & Bluetooth Speakers up to 8lbs(i.e. Vizio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07925B8PD/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_dTUZQDkLKndLq
I ordered these, but would like to find some with cable management. PERLESMITH Speaker Stands Extend 30-44 Inch with Cable Management, Hold Satellite, Small Bookshelf & Bluetooth Speakers up to 8lbs(i.e. Polk, JBL, Sony & Samsung) -1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07925B8PD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QG4JKVDTW99XRP5PH1MP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Runs great! Any current gen one should run pretty flawlessly. I would recommend the Streaming Stick+ as it is currently on sale and is the same price as the one I have ($39.99), the Express 4K. Unless you want the Remote Finder feature of the Ultra which, NGL, I wish I had. That one is also on sale for $79.99 right now. It also has the best wifi if you have wifi issues.
I don't see in the specs that the current Roku Ultra supports Dolby Vision. Link below appears to be the current version Ultra, while your model seems to be the second iteration of the 2018 model.
I also see in reviews that Netflix doesn't support Atmos on Roku in the reviews for this model.
An update to the post:
-Tried a factory reset, still 6mbs
-I tried the wifi extender, doesn't work with google wifi
-I tried the powerline adapter, got about 6-7mbs (this makes be believe it is software, as my internet speed is about 200mbs)
-Was like great, network card is faulty going to have to go through the hassle of a return, but then I was like what if I could get a perfect wifi signal......so I tried a wifi hotspot connection to my phone, just to see if I could get over 6mbs and boom, got 30mbs (phone pulled 40mbs when i ran a fast.com test)
​
So that makes me feel better, that the wifi card does handle more than 6mbs, but its so weird the powerline adapter only got 6mbs.
​
Tonight I am going to try and put the transmission powerline adapter closer to the TV (kid was asleep in the closer room last night when I was messing with it) and see if the powerline can pull more speed. This would be the best option....
If this doesnt work then i am down to a couple options:
- move android tv box upstairs and see if that can get 25mbs+ speeds for 4k streaming
- wait until i get an xbox one x, and use that to stream 4k videos
- buy another google wifi and stick in that room
I think I solved this:
So on HDMI 5 (not the ARC port mind you), I have a Monoprice Blackbird 6x2 HDMI Matrix connected (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-HDMI-Matrix-Audio/dp/B01KYD0D6S) to connect a handful of consoles (Nintendo Switch, Wii U, and 4 of their mini retro consoles) to the TV and a recorder I sometimes use. This matrix has two outputs, A (marked with ARC), and B. Although ARC on this device was not enabled (LED on front was off), nor was this device connected to the ARC port on the TV, switching the connection to the TV’s HDMI 5 port from A to B on the matrix seems to have resolved the issue!
Thanks for replying and I can offer an update to where I settled in my setup. Ultimately I continued having some problems with the Chromecast wGTV specifically, but I was able to stablize my setup by going back to a Roku Ultra and running all my components through a stable HDMI switch. The soundbar has been awesome and stable finally without any input switching problems. I got this HDMI Switch and run all my components through this to the HDMI In on the Soundbar, then running HDMI from soundbar to any input on the TV: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083NWKPXW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_9RXFH8BV7HZ09FHNJY4G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The key with this switch is that it allows you to turn off "Auto-switching" so then the user is in control of when to change to a different input. I also went back to using my Roku Ultra and I do not have any issues with the soundbar pulling through the Atmos signals and it never switches off HDMI In. The Chromecast continues to be a bit problematic with some sound not coming through reliably and I have to power cycle to try and get it to come back.
Here is the remote that comes with the TV. You can see it only does the simplest of functions and you cannot get into the menu using it.
https://www.amazon.com/XRT133-Remote-Control-compatible-E480-d0/dp/B01MG5TKYM
These 15 foot extensions should get you up to 40 feet for $12
I bought a condo with wood paneling so I didn’t want to deal with drilling into the wall. The OLED TV stand has a little piece that keeps it from tipping over you just remove to wall mount and the Elevate slips right over the stand and locks in. Our couch is in the middle of the room which is why I went stands instead of wall mounts for the satellite speakers.
If anyone ever finds this thread in the future I've managed to get some stability on the soundbar, and I think the biggest reason so far is finding a solid HDMI switch that allows for turning off of the "auto-switch" feature. I ultimately factory re-set the soundbar and installed the firmware update again. I've made sure all HDMI cords are premium certified and this HDMI switch has been the magic ticket I needed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083NWKPXW/
The biggest thing this switch brings is the ability to turn off auto-switching, because there are so many "always on" devices. With this I have created much more stable connections that seem to handle the HDCP handshake better.
There are still some issues with switching apps like I've characterized in this post, but I am finding performance different based on each device, with the Chromecast w/ Google TV being the worst performer. Roku Ultra is rock solid.
If you do end up having to buy an HDMI switch for your 4k bluray and game consoles, I can confirm this inexpensive one works with my SB36512-F6 soundbar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HYDVFP5/
CEC doesn't work, but that's expected based on the product description.
I had the same issue and read somewhere online about using specifically a 2 GB flash drive. I ended up just buying one (surprisingly difficult to find one that small these days without ordering a 25+ pack…) and tryed the update again today and it worked.
Of course with anything on the internet YMMV.
Are you talking about this one from Amazon?
[VIZIO M-Series 5.1.2 Home Theater Sound Bar with Dolby Atmos and DTS:X
](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TV6GJF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5ZBDAM55QZDA6K89ZMCF)
This one is not the 5.1.2, they are selling the 5.1 version in p place. Even the model number say M51a-H6
Ah interesting- I’ve really no idea. I tried an adapter first. I only have a DP in my PC and HDMI from the Vizio. The adapter worked fine for my monitor but no good for my TV. This should be coming today- AmazonBasics DisplayPort to HDMI Display Cable - 15 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015OW3QVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_X4H0QK60E0T8P8H0PDQH is the right way?
I picked up this one on Amazon . Easy install and clear instructions
Mounting Dream TV Wall Mounts TV Bracket for 42-70 Inch TVs, Premium TV Mount, Full Motion TV Wall Mount with Articulating Arms, Max VESA 600x400mm and 100 LBS, Fits 16", 18", 24" Studs MD2296-24K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMF9SQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MES9WX2MN7HYBH46G3FC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DL4J6NZ
Still have it, just gonna return it when I find a replacement. My budget is I guess a few hundred. Because I saw a Bose one for $250 that promises what I'm looking for ("This TV speaker is designed to specifically focus on clarifying and elevating vocals and pronunciation.") and it has great reviews, but then, so did the one I have.
I just want something that's crisp and clear, without volume fluctuations, and I can go up to $250. And of course, I'd prefer not to.
I think like many people my Vizio Oled suffers from the dreaded plug problem, and I've come up with a rather ingenious solution. There are several products on the market (I bought this one) which allow you to remotely power on and off a socket. I propose wiring up all home theater components and turning off power to all of them, when not in use, through a single plug. Not only does this save some power from vampiric devices, but neatly solves the problem of the need to unplug the TV frequently.
Obviously it would be more ideal for a Vizio to fix their product, but in the interim I think it's a nice stopgap.
Let me know what you think!
I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXWXSRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you can't exactly hide the wires 100% without opening up the plate for the screw that holds the speaker, but the wire can just go around it just fine and is still hidden unless viewed from the back (I did the mod on one and didn't bother on the other)
also the platforms are a good bit larger than the elevate speakers, if that bothers you.
PERLESMITH Adjustable Height... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KG52HYF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought these from Amazon Canada for about $50 and they work great. Used the advice to just Velcro tape the cord to the pole. Nice and sturdy and fit well with the adhesive tape option.
I'm going to pick these up on Amazon for my Vizio v51-h6 surrounds.
Apparently the pole is large enough for the square connectors. Its also easier to run the cords through in reverse.
I believe this has been replaced by a newer Mounting Dream product, the one I was looking at before deciding to stick with my current soundbar: https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-Bookshelf-Universal-Satellite/dp/B07PXWXSRY/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07PXWXSRY&psc=1
I have this set for my rear Elevate speakers. You cant run the wires through them because the connector is too large, but you can get a good look either wrapping the cables around the stand or using a fabric cable organizer that would cover the entire thing.
I use these for my Elevate: Mounting Dream Speaker Stands for Satellite & Small Bookshelf Speakers - Set of 2 Floor Stand Mount for Bose Polk JBL Sony Yamaha and Others - 11LBS Capacity MD5402 New Version (Speakers Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D14BNV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A9JBWHK51WY7GXQ4J5GM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Be nice if this could be ported to the CCwGTV. I use it for my Shield and handles everything perfectly. It reads the framerate of the video and automatically switches the refresh rate video output as it loads.
These are the earbuds I use. Excellent sound. Meets your hopes. Can be found cheaper. Shoot for $60. Refurb $40.
https://www.amazon.com/Jabra-Enabled-Wireless-Earbuds-Charging/dp/B077ZGRVRX
Roku Ultra, $80 this week. Usually $100. Rokus have a Private Listening feature. Use you phone as a remote for the Roku. Turn on this feature. Earbuds connected to phone are now playing sound from Roku content.
Or just get a BT dongle.
Roku Ultra, $80 this week. Usually $100. Rokus have a Private Listening feature. Use you phone as a remote for the Roku.
8K HDMI Cable 6.6Ft, IXEVER HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High-Speed 48Gbps [8K@120Hz] Nylon Braided Cord Support Dynamic HDR, Dolby Atmos Compatible with Apple TV, PS4, PS5, Roku, Samsung QLED, Projector https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07YJLZLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W7RCEY28PWTKPZ2PSEPA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought this for my ps5 and Sony x900h tv. Works great and can confirm true HDMI 2.1
love these for my lg cx oled
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081NXV3ZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Watched video on YouTube where the guy tested multiple brands. I don’t have a tester. So I went with what o thought had a high likely hood to be 100%.
What ports does your PC have? Can probably run the video signal to the TV and the audio signal to the soundbar separately. As far as native TV apps, you'll need to ditch that idea for Dolby Atmos and just run off of apps/websites from the PC. You can get a remote like this that will make it a much-better experience for you.
You could always return the TV for one that supports Atmos.
I saw this on Amazon. It said could be shipped between 1 to 2 months and cost about $500 https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-5-1-2-Theater-Sound-Dolby/dp/B08TV6GJF7/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=ER76p&pf_rd_p=49ff6d7e-521c-4ccb-9f0a-35346bfc72eb&pf_rd_r=YT1TF4BQHX2JHS7WY516&pd_rd_r=6b1d47d8-6dcc-4894-bd50-25df84327536&pd_rd_wg=2GQOC&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VMJEK2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_VR9703VKYH4XKBDF3AKY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had a 65" Vizio LED mounted to it previously, and currently have the P85X mounted to it.
The P85X weighs 100lbs, and it is sturdily attached to it.
Obviously, with an OLED, you'll want to verify mounting screw length, VESA Pattern, and have at least one side of the mount screwed into a stud. I recommend using a professional, licensed, bonded, insured installer, that way, if anything were to happen to the TV or mount, you would have recourse.
Sounds like a signal issue? I have Verizon Fios and while there is some noise in the background on some channels it is far from unwatchable.
Maybe try something like this to boost the signal? You need to have a power outlet nearby though.
What is not working with 4K 120hz?
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I have a 3090 connected to my 65 inch H1 (primary PC monitor) and VRR is working at 120hz. There is a bug at 83fps and 42 FPS where the bottom of the screen gets out of sync with the rest of the screen. Some games have the Gsync flicker (could be alot or could be a few times during a game) and some games work perfect (minus the 83fps/42fps bug).
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I just installed this 3090 about a week ago and every game would not load correctly. I turned of VRR in the TV menu then the game would load UP. Then turned VRR back on, while still in the game, and then it worked fine from there. If a game was set for 60fps it also had issues loading up. Once I was able to get the game set to 120hz it would load/work fine. I found out Vsync needs to be enabled to keep it from tearing at 120pfs or higher. Without Vsync enabled there is no frame cap. Even adding a FPS cap at 119 or 120 would not stop screen tearing at or around 120hz.
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1440 120hz VRR and 1080p 120hz VRR seem to work really well without much issues. I do not seem to get the Screen flicker or the 83fps/52fps bug.
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In Nvidia Control panel
Color Depth at 10bps.(12bpc does not allow games to start-up but can be made to work, but it looks the same to me as 10bps)
Output mode at YCbCr444
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In the TV
HDMI - 2.1
Full Color 4:4:4 - Off (greyed out)
Color Space Range - Auto
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If you are still having issue maybe do a DDU in safe modem and get rid of any old video drivers from your old card.
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This could also be an issue with the 2.1 HDMI cable you are using. I use the Zeskit 8K 16ft cable from Amazon. Those have been tested to work with 2.1 from what I read/watched on youtube.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1BNM7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve used this:
VIVO Mobile TV Cart for 32-65 inch LCD LED Plasma Flat Panel Screen TVs up to 110 lbs, Pro Height Adjustable Rolling Black Stand with Laptop Shelf & Locking Wheels - Max VESA 600x400, STAND-TV03E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TFXO4Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ScHcGb87NEEX8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I simply didn’t add the wheels, and didn’t add the shelf (you could if you wanted to)
But I had a 65” on it and just put a 75” on it and it works great! Raises the TV to a little above eye level and freed up my TV entertainment center for my Sonos sound bar, oculus, etc...
one problem that I do have is that I cant seem to use the eARC and the hdmi-in on the same tv, the audio flickers in and out. It seems that if you want to use eARC, which you need for atmos, then you cant use the hdmi-in, as well. That means you loose one of your hdmi ports. I'm going to try buying this and see how it works. https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Remote%EF%BC%8C5-Switcher-Support-Vision/dp/B07MJ783KG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=MH3KU4DB5V13&dchild=1&keywords=hdmi+atmos+switch&qid=1611219007&sprefix=hdmi+atmos%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-3
Those might be good ones. I read somewhere that anyone can claim their cables are certified. The ones I got were a little cheaper but seem to work. It's hard for me to tell if the chromatic aberration issue I'm seeing is from the cable or the TV. But since enough others have seen the same issue, I'm guessing it's the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088T32WTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I have this one in 2 lengths (13 ft and 16 ft). One is connected to my OLED and runs 4k120 VRR HDR 12 bit 4:4:4 just fine. The other is connected to my PQX and I just got the new update and haven't tested with VRR. So far though they've been rock solid.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08C59RRY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F-caGbQMN5QH0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Off topic- but I purchased a cool tv mount for the same type tv to fit on a table like yours a little better.
PERLESMITH Universal TV Stand Table Top TV Base for 37 to 70 inch LCD LED OLED 4K Flat Screen TVs - Height Adjustable TV Mount Stand with Tempered Glass Base, VESA 600x400mm, Holds up to 99lbs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XLMQ39D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_OsZ.FbWCKGD53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
XRT140 OEM Remote Control for Vizio Smart TV V655-H1 V435-H1 V555-H1 V605-H3 V655-H9 M50Q7-H1 M55Q7-H1 M55Q8-H1 M65Q7-H1 M65Q8-H1 P65Q9-H1 P65QX-H1 P75Q9-H1 P75QX-H1 V435-H11 V585-H11 (Renewed) Title https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5TRFNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_R2M9FbJGP3CHN
This is the remote for your tv series
This happens to me as well on my 2021 PQX 85” with a 2019 Shield Pro. I’m using these cables
Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 4K120 8K60 144Hz eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X RTX 3080 3090 PS5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kSi9FbGNBA917?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think my comprehension is too low to understand the potato chips reference, but the protector is 65".
I have these for all of my TVs. They work great and are very minimal. Almost gives the illusion the TV is wall mounted.
This is what you want PERLESMITH Swivel Universal TV Stand / Base - Table Top TV Stand for 32-55 inch LCD LED TVs - Height Adjustable TV Mount Stand with Tempered Glass Base, VESA 400x400mm, Holds up to 88lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TK2KWVJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_0po5FbBAG6CW9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I couldn’t figure out the bolting part of your query, but if it helps, this is the mount I use for my 40-inch V-series Vizio TV that doubles as an external monitor for my laptop.
The VESA holes didn’t match the TV so I had to buy a VESA mount adapter plate.
NB North Bayou Monitor Desk Mount Ultra Wide Full Motion Swivel Long Arm with Gas Spring for 22''-35''Monitors from 6.6 to 26.4lbs Height Adjustable Monitor Stand F100A-B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DQYT25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_qVS4Fb0XVZK2B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are universal stands. Not sure how good it is, but this one is only $16
Could I install a HDMI CEC adapter on my PC to make it work?
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lindy-HDMI-Adapter-Female-41232/dp/B00DL48KVI/
Having new video troubles with my Xbox series X and Playstation 5 using Vizio Atmos Soundbar - Vizio SB36514-G6
So all of my devices go to an HDMI Switcher and then to the HDMI-IN on the Vizio sound bar. And then from the HDMI-ARC on the Vizio to the HDMI 2 (Arc Port) of my LG OLED B7A.
I did this in the end because it solved the problem I was having of my Xbox Series X not connecting to Atmos. That works now perfectly. The Xbox Series X was having no problems.
But a new problem came up yesterday when I setup my new Playstation 5. For some reason the Playstation 5 started with a black screen but audio worked perfectly. I switched my HDMI switcher to the XBX…When I went to the Xbox Series X I was shown a big RED SCREEN on my TV. But again, I could hear the Xbox Series X perfectly.
As soon as I unplugged the HDMI or turned off the Xbox Series X from the HDMI Switcher, the Playstation 5 started working perfectly showed Video finally.
My thought process right now is that the HDMI switcher cannot handle both consoles at the same time plugged into it….but that makes no sense if they work perfectly when one or the other is not plugged into the HDMI switcher.
Once I unplug/take HDMI of the PS5 or XBX out of the switcher, the other works perfectly…
Any ideas? Thank you!
Connecting to LG OLED B7A. This HDMI switcher that supports Atmos - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083NWKPXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Using this cable that supports Atmos - https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=10240&cs_id=3010101&p_id=16121&seq=1&format=2
I bought this cable to make my Series X run smoothly. Absolutely no problems, my tv can't do 4k/120 yet, but it has no problem with 4k/60, VRR, HDR10. Planning to get another one for my Sound bar.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_RAtVFb1X4DY6A
Having audio troubles with my Xbox series X and Vizio Atmos Soundbar - Vizio SB36514-G6
Connecting to LG OLED B7A.
Whis HDMI switcher that supports Atmos - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083NWKPXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using this cable that supports Atmos - https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=10240&cs_id=3010101&p_id=16121&seq=1&format=2
Going with HDMI-ARC cable. Have no problems with any other system but Xbox Series X. I have tested going from Xbox straight to TV as well taking out the HDMI switcher and problem persists/same.
It is on Bitstream out. Atmos and dolby connects but it lags/delays which ruins the experience. Stereo uncompressed and Dolby Digital Surround does audio perfectly though.
Any ideas on what to do to solve this problem and not delay Dolby Atmos? I want it to work as intended.
I stuck rubber feet under mine to prevent any grinding. This shouldnt be necessary on a $1k MSRP product, but will suffice until they come out with an inevitable new revision of the Elevate, which I will warranty mine for. All my issues are current alleviated (including random signal loss (replaced all HDMI cables with 48gbps cables), DV passthrough (via update), MC LPCM (plugged switch directly into the elevate), it switching from it's hdmi 1 to eARC (moved the elevate to turn on last in my harmony activity) and it sounds incredible so Im keeping it and hoping Vizio makes good with all the bugs and current owners.
just get this:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Companion-Control-Entertainment/dp/B00N3RFC4G
I have the elite and the screen is nice but recharging it every few days is annoying. I have the home companion remote and I use it 99% of the time
I looked at the Vizio cable and unfortunately didn't see any markings. I do know that certain earc features only work with the higher speed cables. If Vizio shipped anything but a cable that fully supports earc, that would be quite a let down.
I've been using thus without issues, though the current price is double what I paid (low stock?).
Then yeah, I would see if you can get your hands on a different cable and try that, since my setup is identical and it’s working fine for me with the input set to HDMI 2.1. I’m currently using these but I’m pretty sure it was also working with AmazonBasics 18Gbps cables https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-48Gbps-Support/dp/B081NXV3ZR
FWIW, I have a P55-F1 running Dolby Vision from an Apple TV 4K. Input 1 on the set never worked well with DV, but 2 & 3 work fine. I use a 20' HDMI cable (run in-wall) that's from "KabelDirekt" on Amazon ($12.99). Not sure if the link will be allowed, but I'll add it below.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI88YCC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 5 port HDMI switch that I use for my soundbar.
Supports 4k at 60hz, HDR, Dolby Vision, and Atmos.
Bought the same model. But the legs were too far apart for my table. Picked this up from Amazon
VIVO Universal LCD Flat Screen TV Table Top VESA Mount Stand Black | Base fits 22" to 65"
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N0VNIA9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Probably cheaper.
The new Amazon basics cables are the most cost effective way to get an HDMI 2.0 cable with bulletproof warranty (they ship you a new cable).
AmazonBasics Flexible Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Foot, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KSDNT6X/
No problem. I just checked and your TV has optical audio out. If you decide to upgrade you could use something like this $25 dude on amazon:
LiNKFOR 192kHz DAC Converter Digital to Analog Audio Converter Headphone Amplifier Volume Control Digital Optical Coaxial Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Audio Adapter for PS4 Apple TV DVD PS3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZNPCXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ySCrDbP3ZHYPM