Just picked this one up, you can find it for ps4 as well.
As far as I know yes, and this is the only one that is officially supported by sony:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-4-playstation/dp/B07DLKVKD5
Amazon. It's super comfortable! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089MFCF8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HOTAS (hand-on-throttle-and-stick) is a setup in which you have one hand on a flight stick and the other on a throttle controller, while HOSAS (Hand-on-stick-and-stick) is using two flight sticks, one in each hand.
I used ExpressVPN and set my location to New Zealand. I’m in Arizona (United States) and everything has worked flawlessly for me.
Edit: I lied. I can’t connect to PVP fleet battles and I can’t get group lobbies to work
That’s a first order TIE fighter pilot. The red stripe guy is a first order special forces pilot. Another unit of the order. They fly the TIE fighters with the red stripe. The black series version of that figure comes with the TIE sf. this one
It's true there really aren't any new good ones.
You can grab X-Wing Alliance or Freespace 2. They're both old-ish but the gameplay remains top-notch. They're sort of the culmination of a decade of space-sims.
Wing Commander V (on GOG.com) is pretty good, too, but not as deep.
Rogue Squadron is very, very dumbed down. It's very far from a space-sim.
I use two of these for my t16000m and TWCS - works great.
I used to have one ages ago, but it wasn't as precise as a traditional mouse, which made playing games like Starcraft a pain. I have a Bluetooth sanwa that is just perfect. ahttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WS7BJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_tZt-Fb97AQPH2
This isn't working for me. I'm using TunnelBear and I've tried both New Zealand and Australia. I removed the authenticator on my phone. Then I put my phone on a VPN and re-added the authenticator. I also set my computer's time to match both NZ and Aus but nothing unlocks the game for me.
It's the Bandai TIE-Interceptor takes under an hour to build, a little longer to paint depending on how far you want to go with it. Price ranges from 25 to 50 dollars, depending on retailer and if its sold out or not.
I’ve experimented with this kind of rig and had reasonable success. I had the right chair to accept them though.
Pro Signal Bracket Pole Mount VESA75/100 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PZDB2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hgNzFb490738R
These are what I used, but since they are sold out, just search for “VESA pole mount”.
Used “industrial strength” Velcro to affix them.
If you already have the HOTAS, buy some drill press vise clamps, a pair of steel L-brackets from a hardware store for each, and some plywood for the platform. Need some bolts and/or screws for fastening, and you can use the vise to clamp to your desk.
I have not done it yet, but I bought the vises and will probably complete it this weekend. Here's a picture of what someone else did to give you an idea: https://i2.wp.com/blog.zencoffee.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/received_884407801740335-e1516317777459.jpeg
You can get some adhesive-backed foam sheets to put in the vise clamps if you're worried about scratching your desk as well.
It's probably safe to assume the most popular ones will be supported. I have a T16000M that I got a while ago for Elite Dangerous, and that's pretty much the most popular budget option AFAIK. I think the Warthog (also made by Thrustmaster) is another pretty popular pick for a higher price point.
I'd go with PC. Spec wise your laptop sounds pretty comparable to a PS4, plus obviously a laptop is mobile.
For a gamepad I'd say DualShock 4 is probably fine since you presumably already have one.
It looks like its out of stock but this attachment could be useful for adding a couple more inputs to your controller. https://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Back-Button-Attachment-PlayStation-4/dp/B082VX16VJ/
Just keep in mind that the game is designed to work for regular controllers so you should be fine even without extra inputs, though having them certainly sounds nice.
Also *if* you're interested in VR the 1060 I think just makes the cut for recommended VR specs, so depending how well optimized Squadrons is you might be able to try that later on. Enjoy!
I started out looking at Teensys people have used, then i found an extremely simple way. There are tons and tons of usb encoders on amazon and ebay for people that make new-old school gaming boxes to play arcade games.
Basically just solder up switches and plug into the encoder then plug encoder into pc. Instantly works like any other joystick.
From everything I've seen posted over time, Pepe's answer is the one to go by, and buy; skip the T16 and go Gladiator NXT as he said.
The Logitech throttle quadrant is 37$ right no on Amzn https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Pro-Flight-Throttle-Quadrant/dp/B01M00UHE3 , at that price...
i can't tell for certain but it looks exactly like this one that I got
I've had it for a few years now and it's held up. Not the fanciest looking thing but hey all the buttons work
HOTAS is the term you're looking for. A controller (and you can get ones for PC that are pretty cheap) will also work if you want a low cost option. Mostly you want something you don't need to look to confirm what you're hitting :)
Otherwise, I have a VKB Gladiator (Australian sale site) and the TWCS (Amazon AU) throttle for my setup, which works pretty well.
there's a free program called DS4windows that makes Windows see the ds4 as a Xbox controller.
I confirmed it worked for Squadrons last night. it's great!
This fixed a problem i had using DS4... where the throttle binds required me to HOLD the "increase speed" button just to maintain 100% throttle. So I was constantly holding my left trigger down throughtout much of the game. So awkward.
​
But with DS4windows.... i can set and forget throttle speeds like a normal person :)
if you bought Squadrons on Steam, I *think* you can enable Dualshock 4 support in Steam's Big Picture mode and get all this without using DS4windows.. but i don't know for sure... i have Squadrons on Epic Games' Store..
go here, click button to download and link to latest version is at the top, directions are very simple and are here if you scroll down http://ds4windows.com/
the fix treats your ps4 as an xbox controller and everything works smoothly from there, tested it successfully in game
go here, click button to download and link to latest version is at the top, directions are very simple and are here if you scroll down http://ds4windows.com/
the fix treats your ps4 as an xbox controller and everything works smoothly from there, tested it successfully in game
go here, click button to download and link to latest version is at the top, directions are very simple and are here if you scroll down http://ds4windows.com/
the fix treats your ps4 as an xbox controller and everything works smoothly from there, tested it successfully in game
go here, click button to download and link to latest version is at the top, directions are very simple and are here if you scroll down http://ds4windows.com/
the fix treats your ps4 as an xbox controller and everything works smoothly from there, tested it successfully in game
Folks in their mid 30's were around and played those games too (only we weren't in our 20's) ;)
But YES, loved the old XvT series.
In-fact I've been playing them on and off since the late 90's. They're on Steam and GOG.com, and I've been waiting for a successor since XWA. (Just wish I still had my CDs though :( )
Unplug your 3 devices and replug them in the order you want the game to see them?
If not you can probably manually force the assignments you want like this https://joytokey.net/en/posts/faq-i-have-multiple-controllers-and-their-ordering-changes/
Haven't tried in Steam Link yet, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning and let you know what I found!
I don't know what you're running on your TV, but if it's an Android OS, you could also look into Moonlight as an alternative in case nothing works - I've used it a bunch before and sometimes it runs even better than Steam Link for me, specially with non steam games.
Let me know if you find the solution to your problem, I'll look into it tomorrow regardless for sure :)
Ahh very cool. Yeah I actually had read a post somewhere that mentioned Joystick Gremlin for the rudder, so that makes sense. there’s apparently some Squadrons players that map the rudder to roll instead of yaw claiming it’s more competitive, but I’ll have to see. I really just enjoy the flying and getting a few kills. I don’t expect to be Anakin 😂
I’m thinking about picking this up too:
Arozzi Velocita-Black Racing Simulator Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X77DWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q73H48GCBRQ715QD5REG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Seems to be a great solution and attaches right to your chair
Haha probably umm 12-14ish? One Halloween I made a tie fighter pilots outfit by attaching some plastic hoses to a respirator with no filters, it was like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IF7R9LS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YjD.FbZXQBC81 So imagine hoses going to where the filters would be haha. I had goggles too. My brother made an x-wing pilots costume by adding two paper plates to the side of a white motor cycle helmet with a visor, it looked really good actually 😅
Which external USB card worked for you?
I just bought this one and it's arriving Sunday: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this USB hub based off a recommendation in the G2 sub and it did not work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083XTKV8V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for your help!
You don't even need $150; try out opentrack for $10. I've been using it since it was last brought up a few weeks ago and it's amazing. You just point your phone at your face with the app running and it recognizes your facial movements without any other equipment needed.
I have a Quest 1 and with an Anker cable I can almost play Squadrons through Steam VR. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY and it was recommended from the Oculus support site, I think.
I only have a GTX 1060 6gb GPU so the performance isn't great when there's a lot of action on the screen, so I don't use it. I'm looking to upgrade GPUs hopefully soon.
I'm seeing huge price swings on that device, Amazon has them for $751 (sold by Samsung) while the Microsoft store has them for $279. I don't see any differences though, any idea why?
I'm seeing that the O+ has some issues with game compatibility, do you find this to be the case overall?
Just bought the game and it's still installing so I haven't had a go at it yet, but I've been using this with my FF2 in Mechwarrior 5 and it's great. A little pricier than a numpad but it has fully reprogrammable keys (and the mechanical switches feel really nice!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NBJVH4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Has any opted to use something like this for extra buttons?
Perixx PERIPAD-202HB, Numeric Keypad for Laptop - USB - Built-in 2xUSB Hub - Tab Key Feature - Full Size 19 Keys - Big Print Letters - Silent X Type Scissor Keys – Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GAYDVB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_XFJ1Fb1W17RQ9?psc=1
If you're running out of power shooting.....
I think you need to make sure you swap power to weapons a second before you start firing.
Having overcharge is REALLY important in your leading attack, and preferably a full overcharge weapon meter, because every shot of overcharged lasers is +25% dmg
Otherwise, you're going to need to get your aim fixed. Maybe play with flight stick deadzone/sensitivity settings. Frankly, I gave up on playing HOTAS (I have a HOTAS X which is very similar to yours) and using my wired Elite style controller knockoff instead
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XQXQMR9/
The bottom paddles alleviate the biggest issue of gamepad playing, that being having to take control away from flight control for a few actions.
Oh yeah, and I also recommend swapping to Pitch&Yaw together for aiming. I still roll a lot for flight maneuvers but aiming is done with pitch and yaw
Yea, just set windows to keep it as the input and output. Putting the rift on changes it to the built in one on by default. Just keep in mind your headset will have to go on over the rift, so it could be uncomfortable, as it was for me. I bought these because they can go under: https://www.amazon.com/Koss-Porta-Headphones-Black-Silver/dp/B0755N6CSR?th=1 so the halo band secures them and they wont fly off like my logitech did.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5CWRHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_u4.VFbG9NRC28
Not endorsing this specific brand, but I absolutely recommend wristbands like these. You can find them at any CVS or Walgreens and they work really well, and don't make you drowsy like meclazine or any other motion sickness medication.
Interestingly enough it's not fully understood how they work, but there has been tons of studies proving their effectiveness. They're widely used in hospice care, and I give them to my diving patients because lots of there work underwater, like operating tools and setting explosives can't be done safely under the influence of motion sickness drugs.
Just make sure to follow the instructions, they have to be worn a certain way to be effective.
Amazon from a third party seller, but I looked now to link it to you and ffs it's only $66 sold by Amazon right now wtf.
If you're interested, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Qm-VFbZA90PFX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Even if it says it also lubricates? I found this on Amazon and it says it lubricates as well as cleans. FYI I’m genuinely asking, not trying to be a smartass lol.
DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CvQUFbQRNRSPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can also lube the rails on the TWCS with this:
​
Works great. It adds a slight resistance during travel, but totally kills that "sticking" that occurs when you initially push or pull, resulting in very smooth action.
That's the Rubies helmet, it is (almost, slightly smaller) to scale and wearable. Build quality is ok but for the price it's a pretty good replica! I'm in the process of building a Tie Pilot cosplay, just waiting on the armor/chest box to be made from an armorer off etsy.
Nice, I hope more people here understand what you said (although these specific maneuvers you mentioned may not work in space lol)
I still keep this book on my bookshelf.
https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-Combat-Maneuvering-Robert-Shaw/dp/0870210599
I got it on Amazon. Here’s the link:
Star Wars Millennium Falcon for Apple AirPod 1&2 Pro Case, Mandalorian 3D Soft Silicone Protective Starship Model Airpods Case with Keychain,for Boys Teens Girls (Millennium Falcon Airpods 2 1 Case) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08HWSZMTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mbUNFbEWXJQ2E
It’s not exactly what you’re asking about but I have been thrilled with the Resistance-inspired Major Vonreg’s TIE Interceptor. The color scheme matches the Red palette in game, and its Havina Vonreg’s fam...it’s also perpetually on sale.
LEGO Star Wars Resistance Major Vonreg’s TIE Fighter 75240 Building Kit (496 Pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMXW5CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1pkMFb7XBAVTS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
it’s a slippery slope, be careful! it’s not the right era, but if you want a small cheap ship to try out before investing in older models, the resistance a-wing is on sale most places right now!
glad you saw this here! i would’ve posted in r/lego but i know the mods have been pretty strict about custom printed parts lately :/
I may have seen one of those. But I grew up gluing and painting models with my dad, and most of these A-Wing models are snap together. I did however find this. The poor English makes me wonder if it will be a quality product, but the one review with picture does a little to assuage my fears.
LIGHTAILING Light Set for (Star Wars A-Wing Starfighter) Building Blocks Model - Led Light kit Compatible with Lego 75275(NOT Included The Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BLHVRNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KoSLFb53SFBG7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have my VR headset (a Samsung Odyssey+) plugged into a switchable USB hub, this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It allows me to keep it power off when I'm not using it and quickly connect and power it on when I want to. I have a few other devices that I only use occasionally plugged in the other ports too. It works well.
I just commented on a post about my setup but thought I’d share with you all in case you anyone was looking for a moderately priced hotas mounting option.
I picked up 2 of these:
VIVO Racing Wheel Stand with Gear Shifter and Pedal Mount (Wheel, Gear Shifter, Pedals Not Included) Fits Logitech, Thrustmaster, Fanatec, Compatible with Xbox, Playstation 3, PC Games (STAND-RACE1A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DF9HR9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6GTIFbM6FK7B9
If you ever decide to try and mount those babies I searched far and wide for a moderately priced setup and found something I’m loving. I bought 2 of these:
VIVO Racing Wheel Stand with Gear Shifter and Pedal Mount (Wheel, Gear Shifter, Pedals Not Included) Fits Logitech, Thrustmaster, Fanatec, Compatible with Xbox, Playstation 3, PC Games (STAND-RACE1A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DF9HR9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6GTIFbM6FK7B9
And I just mounted them with Heavy Duty duct tape, presto!
SmoothTrack for Android and iOS works maybe even better than TrackIR -- I have both.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.epaga.smoothtrack&hl=en_US
Yes there is. If you have an android phone, install the beta of the Xbox app. The feature is new and has just been introduced there.
Play store link to the beta app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microsoft.xboxone.smartglass.beta
Source: https://lordsofgaming.net/2020/09/xbox-now-allows-game-preloads-before-inserting-a-disc/
Hmmm that's a good question. Right now I'm using a Thrustmaster Warthog throttle, but I may suggest the T.16000 (if you can buy it separately from the stick) as a) it's cheaper, and b) I'm not in love with the build quality of the Warthhog.
I've owned the T.16000 setup before and really liked it, plus if you don't have twist on the joystick you can assign the paddles on this throttle to act as roll or yaw.
​
Edit: here's the link.
https://www.amazon.com/ThrustMaster-2960754-Thrustmaster-TWCS-Throttle/dp/B01L28LVUG
Honestly, I don't know if this is worth $200 if you're not going to be using it for other sims. Maybe someone can give you better advice in r/hotas
others including myself have been using a VPN to unlock it on steam ( i used NordVPN 30 day trial but a PITA to cancel )
​
Close down Steam completely
Connect to Australia or New Zealand VPN Server ( or wherever it is already unlocked )
open steam and run SW:Squadrons
once Squadrons is open and running you can disconnect from VPN, **but you will be limited to practice / Story unless you stay connected to the VPN**
**= very limited testing as i couldn't get multiplayer to join a game when i was not connected to VPN (and is still unreleased in my time zone, didn't try it when connected to VPN
Yeah, there are two powered USB hubs in there. One on top of the desk and under it for all the peripherals.
My main recommendation on hubs is to make sure they are big and that they are powered. Things get funny when you plug a lot into an unpowered hub. I got a couple of these.
The only connections mine has are three 3 screens, 1 hub, and power.
I definitely recommend the junk yard drivers seat route. Our local scrap yard had BMW, Cadillac, and other really nice seats for only $25.
Yeah I did that. It worked right away once I switched to ExpressVPN. It's not free but they do a 30 day money back guarantee no questions asked. I've used it before so I just signed up on a different email this time.
Played for nearly 3 hours already, the game is amazing!
So it looks like ProtonVPN is working for me (and it's free, no credit card required).
Specifically I did:
Still unpacking, I will update my comment if I'm able to play the game.
EDIT: The game launches, but launch the game first, before disconnecting from the VPN.
working here for single player ... which is acceptable for the next 75 minutes... reminds me of doing this a few years ago for BF1... make sure you quit Steam / Origin whatever.. then activate the VPN.. then relaunch Origin... do not launch SWSq from the shortcut. Should work like this but i am using TunnelBear rather than Vyper
Any VPN that supports something like selecting your own location will do I think.
But I used a free version of TunnelBear VPN. It has a 500mb limit though. But, back when unlocked other games through VPN I only needed to use it to boot up the game, then I could close VPN again and just play on my own connection. I can not guarantee if that works for Squadrons though, but I am almost certain you could just play at least the singleplayer once you get in the game.
Okay, I see what I did. I went through this site (I just searched Google for best free VPN trial):
And clicked PrivateVPN and it generated some referral code that offers a free 7 days. Here is the direct link:
Chair: AmazonBasics High-Back, Leather Executive, Swivel, Adjustable Office Desk Chair with Casters, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XBC3BF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5boHFb9ZVXRZ5
Mounts: Loutytuo Universal Monitor Pole Mount Bracket Without Punching Fully Adjustable Stand for Diameter Pole Mount with VESA 75/100, Fits Screen up to 27 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7SC4B8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OcoHFbK7Y3J5F
Helpful hint for anyone who has a joystick and wants to get a throttle. Look at getting a razor gamepad or something similar. It's not perfect, but I find it works fairly well and they only cost $40-80 depending on the model. It's a good temporary solution until HOTAS throttles come back into stock and prices go down. I'm using this one right now. It's currently on an Amazon prime sale for $50.
I bought some 3D printed glasses inserts that pop onto the lenses of my Oculus Quest and it's a game changer for me.
The adapter was $15 and then you buy a pair of Zenni glasses for about $20 (with antireflective coatings). the lenses pop out of the glasses and into the holders very easily and they have been a great solution for me. I have seen some 3d printed mounts with magnetic pop in/out and I wish I had gone for those so I could take out my lenses when handing the headset to my girlfriend or friends.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BT7EA18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bought a couple of those bad boys on sale a month ago, and strapped em to my chair, with a USB hub so I only have one cable running to the pc. It's working a treat, especially in VR, and the arms are stiff enough to hold nicely but still be able to push down out of the way when you're done. Really any cheap monitor arms seem like they'll do well.
Hey Bruv,
It's this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VDJDMLV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Congratulations! If you plan on using Oculus Link you should get a new cable that actually supports it. The cable it comes with can technically be used but it slow and you'll get hiccups. Something like this would work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/
I picked up a T-Flight X in anticipation for Squadrons. I've been playing the old X-wing games with it, and some Elite Dangerous, and it works great! Currently listed as $61. The stick has twist axis, and the throttle has a paddle-thingy, so you can skip getting rudder pedals if money's tight right now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CXYMFS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got two of these and some double sided Velcro and i mount them to the arm rests of my SL Chair. Obviously you can just put these on your desk and they are super affordable. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HQQTRSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(keep in mind that this is all for a Sequel trilogy T-70)
Seat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3BVX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Reference: Primary reference is a gamerip of the model from Battlefront II 2017. That is a little low fidelity, so I also have screens of every time the cockpit is shown in all three movies. Even then, there are still huge gaps (particularly at the seat/footwell and near the front of the canopy) so that's being filled with reference from the visual dictionary and the Bandai model. Also using the TFA panorama for general placement info, even though the TFA cockpit is significantly different from the TLJ/TROS one.
I got 2 of these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HQQTRSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and some Velcro strips and they work remarkably well with my SL chair. Deff recommend
Based on your comment, it sounds like you found that it’s a weird bug associated with the Hz refresh rate. But aside from this, if you want to really cool down your CPU, take a look at a water cooler. They are cheaper than you may think. This is the one I have and I love it. Rosewill CPU Liquid Cooler, Closed Loop PC Water Cooling, Quiet 120mm PWM Fan, Intel LGA 2011/2066/1366/1150/1151/1155/1156/775, AMD AM4/AM3+/AM3/AM2+/AM2/AM1/FM2+/FM1 - PB120 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CQDGT2R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KmsGFbZPFFEMP
It keeps my 6600K running at like 60C with it over locked to 4.6Ghz
It's weird how I found a site describing the costs of the DLC and also they sell a regular and game of the year edition(including the DLC)
https://www.amazon.com/Witcher-Game-Year-Sony-PlayStation-4/dp/B01L0TXXBW
https://www.amazon.com/Witcher-Wild-Hunt-PlayStation-4/dp/B00WTI3JPE
I'm not sure if the official sold-by-Oculus link cable is C to C or C to A, but the cable itself is nothing special, it's just a high-quality USB 3 cable. I use an Anker cable myself: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Whether the port on the computer side is C or A shouldn't make a difference; its the exact same data, just a different form factor, so long as it's USB 3. The headset side is of course C.
I use this one I got for Elite Dangerous. Its fun. I tried using a controller and my aim and drifts much better on the stick.
This is what you're looking for: USB over WiFi
Personally, I'd do USB over CAT5/5e/6 ethernet, but I have to freedom to run structured cabling in my house however I want: 4 USB over 1 ethernet.
Just a joystick? The VKB Gladiator NXT ($120-150)
Joystick + throttle? The Thrustmaster T.16000M ($160 MSRP)
Those are my recommendations for good hardware for under $200. Better stuff starts costing a lot more and cheaper stuff just isn't worth it. The main problem you will have is that joystick supplies are really, really low right now because Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020 came out and wiped out all supply. Finding stuff in stock and at MSRP will be tough.
Two possibly related issues: Platform: PC (Steam) and Vive Pro Wireless
Problem 1: SteamVR crashes when quitting the game.
First noticed the issue 1: 2nd time exiting the game.
Steps to reproduce 1: Launch game in VR using a Vive Wireless headset after SteamVR has been opened, and quit at any time ingame and SteamVR will give an error message saying it crashed. Vive video and audio also cut out at this time.
Evidence 1: (will edit soon with evidence)
Problem 2: Scratchy bad audio when using an active USB-C to 3.5MM adapter on aforementioned Vive Pro Wireless. This one here.
First noticed issue 2: 1st time playing after installing new audio solution using mentioned adapter and 3.5mm IEMs, when game is launched in VR.
Steps to reproduce 2: Set audio device quality format to 32bit @384KHz (maximum supported by adapter and apparently the only option that allows sound). Will say now this audio solution was tested in H3VR, Discord and VRChat, the latter of which is usually finnicky about audio settings (or really in general).
Evidence: (also soonTM).
Maybe this is an option? I don't personally have it so I have no first hand experience but looks like it might be okay as an entry level option?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Stick-PC-PS3/dp/B000V6HFZQ/
Yea they have thread checkers. One time I went to home depot and someone got a wrong size bolt stuck in wrong thread checker. Bought my own set ever since. Very handy tool to have. The set I have can do male and female.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYD4SS8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_btf_t1_IuKCFbRTEFRX4
This works like a charm!!! You’ll need about 2 packs. Cut and trim to shape.
https://www.amazon.com/SCOTCH-Fasteners-Extremely-Strong-Holds/dp/B00347A8GM
The nice thing is that it does not pull off with a usual amount of sheering force, like slamming the stick to make a turn. You have to almost peel the base off.
You can get this at any local hardware store too.
Pro tip. Give the glue at least a night to cure before game.
PC under desk is dedicated rig for the Vive; at this point really only use it when friends come over. Also toying with the idea of a 2-PC streaming setup when I move into my new place next month.
Correct and correct.
I added a fourth monitor mount to this stand to make it a quad. I don't recommend this as it is quite janky behind the scenes.
It's a 5" LCD screen for hardware monitoring, using Rainmeter.
I stripped down an old Corsair case and added hooks, LEDs, and a charging dock.
there's less need for it since sw:s is only 4-axis, but it should work.
i will try a PlayStation Move Navigation Controller in my left hand. pitch/yaw on right (virpil alpha), and thrust/roll on left.
I cant find mine exactly but the arms are the same
https://gtracing.com/collections/gtracing-pro-series/products/gaming-chair-gt099-red I found these monitor mounts I believe these will work
Before I built a full cockpit I clamped a pair of vesa pole mounts to my chair’s arm rests and used Velcro strips to attach my HOTAS. It worked out quite well but your mileage may vary depending on the type of chair and desk you have.
Pole mounts I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCRRUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_btf_t1_tYfuFbPK49FH0
That's a Logitech X52 HOTAS. They run $150 normally, and are sold out everywhere right now.
99% confident the X52 is PC only; the only HOTAS that's compatible with Xbox One that I've seen is the Thrustmaster T. Flight HOTAS ONE (https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-xbox/dp/B07643TW2V/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=HOTAS+ONE&qid=1597581683&sr=8-1).
So if you're not playing on PC, I'd say take advantage of the market right now and sell it. Otherwise, that's a great set up for PC and I'd keep it.
I was a beta Tester, so yeah once they get VR and Hotas fixed (Warthog+Rudder), it would be a solid 8, as it stands 6. Here is why and how to make it a 10.
I felt zero competition from Mouse/KB Players. If they can up the M/KB sensitivity without breaking the "Flight Sim Model" to match some of the player's skills with it then we will have fun.
I could go 15+ kill streak out of 30 scores. I am not even that good of a pilot. I feel the majority of players will be Mouse/Controller vs the Joystickers and that will kill eliminate the player base. (I used the Thrustmaster HOTAS4) which worked flawlessly.
They need to fix some issues with the mouse, and I expressed this to them, no return to neutral for mouse, they need a better system for roll vs turn (they have it, just needs to be tweaked.)
They need to allow Mods, player created assets, missions, Maps, maps, and more maps and then randomize objectives since they plan ZERO DLC, no more content, that is perfectly fine with me, allow the player base to create it for you.
Oof, definitely don't get Monstertechs unless budget is no issue. They're very overpriced. Even a j pein from amazon works fine for much less: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Joystick-Throttle-Hand-Control-Game-Device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7
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I have a Secret Lab Chair so if you have or can find a chair that has similar arm rests you can attach these "desk mounted mouse pads" and clamp them to the armrests. I simply got velcro strips and attached my Thrusmaster T Flight Hotas to them (2). the chair was the only expensive part to this solution but it has pretty standard armrests.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HQQTRSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thats the cheapest chair i found under "office chair" on Amazon
Ahh I hear you, we don't have that many high street stores selling computer parts these days (and even fewer for gamers) but to be fair there are some!
Most of our shopping for this kind of thing is online now - Amazon, Ebay, some local stores too. I still think Joysticks are expensive even now.
I remember getting a Saitek Cyborg Evo for something like £45... those were the days!
:-)
Amazon. I use the small one for streaming and recording controls. The larger one is for various in game macro commands.
Koolertron One Handed Macro Mechanical Keyboard, RGB LED Backlit Portable Mini One-Handed Mechanical Gaming Keypad OSU! Keyboard 9 Fully Programmable Keys Blue Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VWHS9V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e5t7EbMXBTFFF
Koolertron One Handed Macro Mechanical Keyboard, RGB LED Backlit Portable Mini One-Handed Mechanical Gaming Keypad 23 Fully Programmable Keys (RGB Backlit/Blue switches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGVMRD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E5t7EbBA34EQT
Edit: I used custom key caps.