Ok, I'll be the first.. Obviously you need to devote a large amount of your training to learning skill and technique. The new-ish John Kettle book is mentioned regularly on this sub and I can vouch for it—it's a no-nonsense list of highly effective technique drills and accompanying videos. Kris Hampton of the Power Company climbing has a series of movement skill youtube videos. Practice practice practice. Try and find someone with better skills that you can climb with and learn from. You have a head start with your strength, now you've gotta relax that grip and learn how to use your feet and hips and engage body tension.
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As far as synovitis goes, that sucks. There's advice on this sub which you can search for. Crimp avoidance is almost mandatory, taping can help, as can finger curls for some ppl. Progressive loading on the hangboard is a good idea.
Since this has come up again...
Brute strength likely only helps up to about V6-7 outside. Fingers are always going to be the weakest link with solid overall strength if you're trying to break into V8+
Source: Gymnastics strength training background. Been able to do several one arms, iron cross, back lever, front lever, straddle planche, and so on. Also have written one of the more popular books on bodyweight strength training.
If you can barely do some pullups, then obviously some type of strength training will help. But you shouldn't neglect climbing and strengthening the fingers way above it. Maybe 2x a week strength training is solid for most.
Blood Meridian or The Evening Redness in the West, McCarthy. Climbing is an ultraviolent winner-take-all pursuit and this book will put you in the proper frame of mind.
Really, though: The Rock Climber's Training Manual, by the Anderson brothers (I think you can get it as a PDF too). I'm sure there are other books that are better but this is certainly a good start. It's geared towards roped climbing so I'm not sure if it's quite what you're looking for but it is really good. I read it a few times then followed an 18-week beginner training program.
Just incredible results. I've been climbing for over twenty years and had never done a specific training program, just the usual "Look, I'm training!" stuff in the gym. Prior to the training I expected to onsight most 5.9-10a trad, redpoint up to 10d-11b trad, onsight 10c-11a sport and redpoint 11d sport; all outside ratings since gyms don't really count. After the program all of this got bumped up 1-2 letter grades. More important than that, though, was that I was uninjured (nagging lifelong elbows/fingers), and much, much more fit. Also, I broke through what I'd considered a plateau and realized that (dependent on age/etc., I'm in my forties so expect to face age-related limits within 5-10 years) plateaus are, up to a point, not real; they're just the boundaries of our current training.
The training could be really boring and hard but I think that's what training is - you're not "fun climbing" but training for it. It changed my mindset and I'm about to start another training cycle since it's winter. As much as I love "just climbing" the truth for me is that I enjoy climbing much more when I'm doing harder routes. More fun all around and usually safer, too.
Hope this helps.
My advice is that most of us are climbing to live, not living to climb.
Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello of ClimbStrong both advocate cutting down on cardio to truly hit your climbing peak, both of them ski and run, and have put plenty of thought into progressing while being a multi-sport athlete.
It also depends on your current goals. Trying to cut weight? eating right and engaging in some mild cardio can help. Trying to climb long trad routes and be a mountaineer? Buddy there's a whole massive debate about how to become the most insane cardio machine possible.
You should do the thing you feel is most rewarding. I tend to cycle in and out of climbing-heavy and running-heavy periods of my life because they both make me happy. Am I the strongest at either that I could be? Definitely not.
It's worth making a (non-judgmental) clarification here, because I've decked in the exact same situation.
At the 3rd clip:
Clipping high is psychologically more comforting, but apart from the extra time and energy wasted on rope management, it results in much bigger, less controlled falls because you're ignoring the extra rope in the system and you don't have a clear instinctive understanding of how far you're going to drop. You should be MORE afraid of clipping high, not less, and you need to keep reminding yourself of that, repeatedly overwriting your instinctive reaction with physics and logic.
Falling is as much a technical skill as flagging or drop-knees, and the reason falling is still scary is that you haven't done enough of it to dial it in yet. Start incorporating clip-drop training into your warmups, taking a bunch of very controlled falls on super easy routes, slowly building up the height up to and then above the draw, and you'll have this licked in a couple of weeks.
Followup recommendation - Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison is a fantastic read on the psychology of rock-climbing that explains where the illogical climbing-related short circuits and bluescreens come from, and gives solid zero-fluff science-backed strategies for addressing them.
The absolute cheapest solution is probably to scour thrift shops for used mattresses. However, if the idea of taking thousands of falls on somebody's used sex juice absorber skeeves you out, go for one of these bad boys on Amazon for $150: Zinus Memory Foam 6 Inch Green Tea Mattress, King https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7R9IHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FwnuCb00Q893T
Yeah, I could do OACs and front levers and all that jazz before coming into climbing and had extensive knowledge of gymnastics and bodyweight strength training exercises (e.g. wrote Overcoming Gravity), and I still somewhat fell into that trap.
Got rapidly up to about V7ish and got stuck for a while. Past 2 years have been refining and figuring out what stuff works best for me and the people who come to me for advice to constantly progress!
I keep it pretty simple:
I'd suggest using a program better than Excel for graphing. One good option is Gnuplot.
One thing you could consider is tracking V-points completed per "mileage" session, and average V-point per climb sent. I feel like that would be a nice compliment to projecting statistics.
I'd also consider tracking the "stopper" moves that occur in a particular V-grade. If you're able to diagnose any recurring weaknesses based on hold types or body positions or distances between holds, you can get a good sense of what you need to work on and the relative severity of each weakness.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Out-Climbers-Make-Same-Mistakes/dp/095642810X Dave Macleods book is pretty solid and best read before you make the mistakes he talks about :D
Alos run, not marathons (unless you want to) but cardio helps build the stamina for long routes no one tells you you really will like having. Side affect is it builds all your leg muscles too in a supportive core affirming way.
I feel your pain. I'm 27M with the same issue. The only advice I have gotten from medical professionals has been to wear looser fitting shoes (ha). I found a pack of bunion pads on amazon that comes with multiple style pads but found that this style works best (https://www.amazon.com/Bunion-Corrector-Orthopedic-Protectors-Separators/dp/B01A760ARE/ref=zg_bs_3779951_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RVAJJ1AJY3M5ZZZ0GCEC)
This isn't the brand that I have, I'll have to look that up later. having that little extra padding over the bunion allows me to wear tighter shoes without pain. I used to use finger tape to tape my big toe to the toe next to it as well as taping around my foot / bunion to act as a buffer. The special gel pads are a much better solution though. I can't climb comfortably without it now.
The Power Company has a process journal that could work well for what you are looking for.
I use a black moleskin journal to keep track of my progress, this is the one I bought off amazon.
I write my focus for the day, the drills or workouts that I do, how the session is going, particular things that I noticed while climbing, strength training exercises (sets and reps), my start and end times for my climbing and workouts (It is nice to track how much time you spend at the gym each week, and what portion is time spent climbing vs. strength training).
I don't write the individual climbs/grades that I do. I don't see much of a point to this, as gym grades are not very consistent and they aren't up for that long. When I am outdoors, I write every route that I climb.
I also tried keeping notes in a spreadsheet on my phone, but I like writing better, and it keeps me off of my phone while training.
>Has anyone experienced this? I'd love to be able to get that same "click" indoors, and lose that really annoying fear.
A climbing buddy of mine has had this sort of. Due to repetitive exposure it has subsided. He had fear of height really bad. Seems like you are progressing though!
If you want to read more on fear I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Espresso-Lessons-Rock-Warriors-Way/dp/0974011231 (take note: buy the Espresso version if you're interested. Not the full one). It has content about mental training and I really took a lot of insights from the book (not just on the mental part)
I remember a small survey being done at the international climbers festival a few years back (maybe on the rock prodigy website)?
I don't know, I don't have the links on hand, and a lot of this is anecdote as well. Still, I'm quite confident those would be the results.
Edit: here's one.
"The proposed structural model, with latent variable hand–arm strength and endurance (developed from reference values for simple tests), indicated by three manifest variables (grip strength, bent-arm hang, and finger hang) and three exogenous variables (body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience), explained 97% of the variance in climbing performance."
How to Big Wall Climb by Chris McNamara is probably a good place to start.
Learn to trad. Follow lots of trad. It can be helpful to hire a guide to lead on a multipitch to get a better understanding of the logistics and the skills necessary.
Depends what you want to train for. The Rock Climber's Training Manual is pretty good for sport (though kind of boring since little climbing is involved), but bad for bouldering. If you care about the later, look at one of the programs here. I'm halfway through the strength phase in Boulder Strong and it's been great so far.
The classic book for mental game is the Rock Warrior's Way. Admittedly cheesy title, but some really good stuff in there.
https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Warriors-Way-Training-Climbers/dp/0974011215
This is the Android application that we have currently released - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.super8bit.climbz&hl=en_GB&gl=US
I would not go to Joe's in January... Most days it's not even above freezing and at night it's double digit negative.
Here's the forecast for the month: https://weather.com/weather/monthly/l/c383f7b5b1fe2349e37f82a5d4325aa0bf86967ddb08513e174ed76d17941a35
Personally, I'm not a fan of systems walls. I've always much preferred a set up like the one you can sort of see here where there's a flat wall and the just randomly put a ton of holds up. I think I gain more from making up climbs that use a certain type of hold or move I want to work (like pinches or crosses), rather than just climb straight up and down on a true system wall. I also like being able to make up climbs that are similar to whatever project on I'm working on, so a wall littered in holds tends to work better. But that's just me.
This dissertation is about biomechanics of climbing. This paper is about systemic reviews of successful climbers… they might be a good place to start. Good luck!
Laser pointers + potentially a low cost swivel mount such as this: https://www.amazon.com/RMISODO-Pieces-Funnel-Desktop-Pencil/dp/B07ZJP3CKD/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=pen+holder+swivel&qid=1623355676&sr=8-5
Regarding your second question, here you go:
Climbing ability is much more highly correlated to finger/forearm strength than pulling strength.
Regarding max hangs followed by repeaters, I'm curious about the effectiveness of that too. I really just need to sit down and spend an hour or two reading about it, but I look forward to other answers on here.
Yeah I've seen that. Pretty old article huh?
Most people advocate keto in addition to standard of care. The title of that article is dumb.
Here is the concept in a nutshell from a 2017 paper:
Background: A shift from respiration to fermentation is a common metabolic hallmark of cancer cells. As a result,glucose and glutamine become the prime fuels for driving the dysregulated growth of tumors. The simultaneous occurrence of “Press-Pulse” disturbances was considered the mechanism responsible for reduction of organic populations during prior evolutionary epochs. Press disturbances produce chronic stress, while pulse disturbances produce acute stress on populations. It was only when both disturbances coincide that population reduction occurred.
Methods: This general concept can be applied to the management of cancer by creating chronic metabolicstresses on tumor cell energy metabolism (press disturbance) that are coupled to a series of acute metabolicstressors that restrict glucose and glutamine availability while also stimulating cancer-specific oxidative stress (pulsedisturbances). The elevation of non-fermentable ketone bodies protect normal cells from energy stress while furtherenhancing energy stress in tumor cells that lack the metabolic flexibility to use ketones as an efficient energysource. Mitochondrial abnormalities and genetic mutations make tumor cells vulnerable metabolic stress.
Results: The press-pulse therapeutic strategy for cancer management is illustrated with calorie restricted ketogenicdiets (KD-R) used together with drugs and procedures that create both chronic and intermittent acute stress ontumor cell energy metabolism, while protecting and enhancing the energy metabolism of normal cells.
> IMO tape is not nearly strong enough to "support" damaged pulleys
Impact of Taping After Finger Flexor Tendon Pulley Ruptures in Rock Climbers
Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 2007; 23:52-62.
> we evaluated the effect of the new taping method on the strength of the injured finger using a force platform on 12 subjects with different pulley ruptures with injuries older than 1 year. The new taping method decreased the tendon–bone distance in the injured finger significantly by 16%
The 'new' taping method they describe is the H-method.
Yes I've created a Google Form based around the programme described in The Rock Climbers Training Manual and the training diary that comes with that.
Its simple and easy to use on the mobile phone or desktop/laptop and all data gets entered into a Google Sheet. This offers a huge advantage over recording it in a calendar application in that all of the data is in one place, it would be a pain for me to have to go through a calendar and extract all the entries and record them in something I can then summarise, which leads me to...
When I've time I'll be sitting down and writing R code to summarise and display the data and intend to eventually turn it into a web-page that I can navigate using Shiny.
I intend to develop and share my code on Github and will post details when I've found time to actually get things up and running (haven't had time in the past year due to work and wanting to actually climb but have accrued a fair amount of data to work with).
I would say rest and maybe consider purchasing a TFCC wrist brace like this one.
I have one myself and it's been doing well, combined with some rice bucket exercises post-climbing. I asked one of my gyms physio's about them and they had good things to say about it, that they're one of the few things they'd recommend to people trying to rehab a wrist injury.
You can always tape up of course but I personally found it inconsistent. Some days it would work fine and others I'd wake up the next day with pain.
I'm sure the beastmakers are nice.
I am using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANZKA-Unfinished-Diameters-Hemisphere-Natural/dp/B08V159M7R
Smaller and Cheaper. And on vert terrain, you don't need 50mm diameter and certaily not the edge.
Been thinking about getting hangboard, but I live in a rental apartment where I can't drill holes in the walls. I got an iron gym pull-up bar to follow Geek Climber's video, but then I stumbled upon this on amazon:
Since this is portable, I figure I could just hang it from the pull-up bar. So my question is, has anyone used this and will it be good enough for my hangboard training? Or will the fact that it is hanging impact my ability to properly train?
I can’t save your shoes now, but I can save all your future pairs. DryGuy DX Forced Air Boot Dryer and Garment Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A5J5FU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NXHA81KYR40RDXP9BASZ
It seems kind of crazy to buy a shoe dryer but this thing saved my rock climbing shoes and every other pair. What ruins the shoes is moisture allowing bacteria and fungi to grow. Throw your shoes on when you get back from the gym and you’ll be shocked how much longer they last.
You can try my app called Setter if you have Android. It is optimized for home walls, meaning there is no online sharing or capabilities, but you can do whatever you want with it. Meaning zero lead time and freedom to delete/add stuff as much as you want
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.miles.setter&hl=en_CA&gl=US
I've struggled with "climbers elbow" (medial epicondylitis) for about 4 months now, and it used to be pretty debilitating. At a certain point I would have to leave the gym when it began to flare up due to the pain. Its definitely not totally gone for me yet, but its been steadily improving over the last few months and I owe most of that to the "Theraband Flexbar". I'll add an amazon link at the end of this comment. There are various videos on how to use the flexbar but essentially you hold it in the hand of your affected arm, and then use your opposing hand to twist (thus loading) the flexbar. Once its been twisted, you gradually allow it to release its tension. This works wonders for me. I do it before I climb, after I climb, on off days, and in-between climbs if its bothering me.
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I've been wondering this myself lately. I only started hangboarding a few weeks ago as part of RCTM beginner plan, and my hangboard (Metolious Simulator) doesn't have pinches on it. Bought a set of 3" wood balls to train pinches from Amazon (link) but have been having a really hard time doing 6 x 10s even with a lot of weight off with pulley system. I've been debating between a set of pinches from Atomik's system screw on holds or making pinch blocks like these.
I built this personal removable hangboard setup in my too-small condo a few months ago and it's been working out great for me: http://imgur.com/a/wKC21
I got some of these inexpensive locking pulley systems on Amazon to rig it up.
It doesn't look beautiful, but it's proven to be reliable and safe, so it gets the job done!
Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard cover this in Performance Rock Climbing (chapters Flexibility and Flexibility Training).
The chapters are included in the Amazon preview here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Rock-Climbing-Dale-Goddard/dp/0811722198/
(It's quite an old book, so I'm not sure if there are new insights already)
You should look into myofascial scraping. Graston/A-stym/Gua Shua, whatever technique you prefer, it's been a lifechanger for me, feet or otherwise. I got my own tool on Amazon to help with easy to reach places like my toes, feet, and shins, and it really helps keep scar tissue at bay. Also, using a lacrosse ball on the bottom of the feet is great as well, and it's cheap and easy.
I don't do much in the summer. But in the winter, my calluses will crack and it's painful when it does. This sounds weird but I use these to cut off my callus after showering.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
Are you making this more as a learning exercise in flutter or to make money? I made this timer app in flutter and it's so far only made $20. Unfortunately the timer app market is super oversaturated and most people already have a favorite one and it's very hard to make them switch.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.miles.adamson.interval
I'm not sure if most people actually train specific grip positions, they more train different holds. So just saying 2 finger pocket is enough information to imply the 2 finger grip.
I suggest spending at least 1-2 hours a day arguing with your product manager about nomenclature
I believe that your program structure only allows for one grip per set. This means a set of "pocket, small rest, edge, small rest, sloper, long rest" wouldn't be possible. The UX of allowing arbitrary repetitions and sets is a real challenge.
Just make sure it's searchable, one reason my app flopped is because it doesn't appear on the top of searches. Although a lot of that depends on how much money you put into advertising
All you need app-wise is a timer. Several exist but I use Tabata Timer (Android) because it's dead simple, flexible, and does everything I need. It audibly dings when you start/stop the hang period.
I also mostly use Google Sheets to track my training...
My timer when hangboarding is the Beastmaker Trainer (android) : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ch.arons.android.bm&hl=en_GB
I'm also very fond of Climbing Away to get GPS data of outdoor area : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=fr.climbingaway&hl=fr 27cargs could be a good alternative but there's not enough data in there and I'm unable to edit submitted content apparently, but I really love that there are GPS coords for some problems !
oh also, I found this book to be more helpful than any other thing by far when I was getting more serious about fingerboarding
Theraband is the only thing that truly helped my climbers elbow. I use this simple routine. Pushups helped at first but are not enough for me.
Taking time off did not help either, within a few sessions the pain comes back. Generally reducing the volume/time climbing will help. Personally the slopers that really make you curl your wrists are what causes me the most pain, so I avoid those or do very limited tries.
Most important thing for me is being diligent about the theraband. I will be completely pain free, stop using it for a week, then one session the pain creeps back.
Nothing too new here it appears.
We've know the energy contribution of anaerobic to aerobic for a while in track and field and other sports. Here's one reference to T&F but it's similar throughout the various dozens if not hundreds of studies with +/- single digits.
The duration of the various energy contributions correspond in a similar pattern. It looks like slightly more anaerobic contribution for the forearms than a whole body thing like running. Probably due to the fact in the all out test you're squeezing continuously which occludes blood flow from the muscle which decreases aerobic contribution. The increase in aerobic contribution pretty rapidly is common the longer the duration and less intensity the exercise goes.
My guess is it's mostly isopropyl alcohol.
If you go to their original IG post they say it's some type of solvent. and 'not just alcohol' so who knows.
I thought they made a more detailed comment once but I can't find it.
But if it's anything like their tape, just be a basic bitch and get a litre at the store.
(I buy this tape, which looks shockingly similar to their tape just cheaper)
It does clean up the rubber, or at least looks like it on the surface. It doesn't make my shoes go back to factory can stick to each other sticky though.
I recommend the Animated Knots app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.animatedknots.knots). I'm not affiliated with the developer or product at all, I just love the in depth discussions of variants and pros and cons of each knot for different use cases. Incredibly detailed, good pictures, pretty much my go-to for practicing my knots.
Here's the website's version of the Bowline info: (https://www.animatedknots.com/bowline-knot). I like the app because it's offline and portable, though I believe it's the same content on both.
I love my Tension Block. It attaches easily to dumbbells and kettlebells. And it works very nicely in tandem with a "forearm roller" like this one. You can use the forearm roller independently for extensor training and then detach and use the loading pin to lift standard weight plates with the Tension Block. (If you're going to be in hotels for extended periods, it might be worth carrying an extra 2.5lb plate of your own, since hotels won't usually have those. And then with whatever plates or dumbbells they have, you do a nice progressive overload no-hang protocol without jumping up too much in weight at one time.)
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I’ve tried a lot of different things over my climbing life, but these are the exercises that have stuck and I do all the time:
-Finger glides; everyday as much as I can -Metolius ball exercises but using knock off brands; https://www.amazon.com/Handmaster-Plus-Physical-Therapy-Exerciser/dp/B00CTG3TQU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CDX6PPIYSC4U&keywords=metolius+ball&qid=1650347493&sprefix=metolius+ball%2Caps%2C309&sr=8-4 -Flexor stretch (forearm); as much as I can, but especially before and after climbing -Dynamic kettle bell grabs; every other day, usually my non-climbing days -Wrist curls with dumbbells; every other day, usually my non-climbing days
These are the top ones I can think of, but the most important thing that has helped me is massaging my forearms especially down the middle, between the ulna and radius bones when looking at your forearm palm side up. I find that when my finger is super stiff and swollen, if I massage that area for a good 30 minutes or more, the flexibility of my pip joint drastically improves. I use the theragun mini for this, but when I don’t have it, I usually rest my forearm palm side up on the ground and use knee (of the same side of my forearm) and start pushing down on the forearm.
If you have anything that has worked for you, let me know!
I’ve tried a lot of different things over my climbing life, but these are the exercises that have stuck and I do all the time:
-Finger glides; everyday as much as I can -Metolius ball exercises but using knock off brands; https://www.amazon.com/Handmaster-Plus-Physical-Therapy-Exerciser/dp/B00CTG3TQU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CDX6PPIYSC4U&keywords=metolius+ball&qid=1650347493&sprefix=metolius+ball%2Caps%2C309&sr=8-4 -Flexor stretch (forearm); as much as I can, but especially before and after climbing -Dynamic kettle bell grabs; every other day, usually my non-climbing days -Wrist curls with dumbbells; every other day, usually my non-climbing days
These are the top ones I can think of, but the most important thing that has helped me is massaging my forearms especially down the middle, between the ulna and radius bones when looking at your forearm palm side up. I find that when my finger is super stiff and swollen, if I massage that area for a good 30 minutes or more, the flexibility of my pip joint drastically improves. I use the theragun mini for this, but when I don’t have it, I usually rest my forearm palm side up on the ground and use knee (of the same side of my forearm) and start pushing down on the forearm.
If you have anything that has worked for you, let me know!
After reading some comments and doing a bit of research I found this online that I think could work really well https://www.amazon.es/dp/B07C68J4R2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ND1KP2PQ9XR3SFZTR183
This one is to small for my beam, not sure if I can find a bigger one or maybe modify this one
> on the doorframe? I’m curious of this setup. Bc of my landlord I can’t screw anything in a wall directly
I have been using something like this https://www.amazon.fr/TGN40T25-Serre-joint-r%C3%A9glable-Ouverture-Profondeur/dp/B000JLSN6S/ref=sr_1_36?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1PI923XG1L1S5&keywords=clamps%2B30mm%2Bbessey&qid=1647004454&sprefix=clamps%2B30mm%2Bbessey%2Caps%2C60&sr=8-36&th=1
Tbh, this one is too deep for my board
Hey!
Similar situation in here, I broke both of my wrists in different times at different parts( 5 and 9 years ago). My wrists are the weakest point of my body in the last 3 years in terms of climbing. At some point I went to do an MR and doctors told me that the cartilage between the bones got thin and inflamed due to climbing too much. Was a chronic injury not an acute one. I assumed having broken wrists from past events made me susceptible for this type of injury or only because my wrists become the weakest point in my body while climbing.
My suggestion is to warm up your wrists as much as you can. Do antoganistic wrist related exercises in the off days. Keep loading them consistently( daily hangboard or weight training). Stiffness after session is a consequence of inflammation and while pulling hard on that given boulder hurt try to warm up more or try it on next session but keep protecting it.
I would advice something like this(Theraband Flexbar) to keep your wrists strong in every direction(flexion, extension, pronation, supination, radial deviation, ulnar deviation, extension and flexion of finders) and not only flexion.
You wouldn't want to finish the cartilage btw your wrists bones, keep the inflammation as low as possible and maybe do an MR.
Climbing with more structure, focused on warming up the weakest parts of your body(more than the other parts and strengthening and keeping them mobile and pain free is the idea. Weighted controlled hangs on fingerboard in different holds and slopers also for sure will help.
Heavy Duty Z-Clip - Interlocking Aluminum French Cleats (6 Clips/Bag) + 12 Screws! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S09ML9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7CTET36NYNA8KDD8Y2SQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the ones I have I bet someone else makes the same thing now. I have 4 pairs total, which is likely overkill.
Like many things in life, the best approach is in the middle, find a balance that works for you. On this topic, I suggest this book, it aimed to new parents but really look at life in general and it is amazing:
If you want to be really anal about loading consistent amounts of weight nothing beats a no hang setup.
If cost is an issue, BD Freewire's would probably be your best bet. Aside from that, I'm a huge fan of the BD Positrons and the Petzl Djinn Axess draws.
Edit: Just saw this deal as well if you're in the states.
Hey! I have VERY sweaty hands. As in, if I'm leaning on my hands on the fabric padding even after jus 2 seconds, I see my entire hand print due to the moisture coming off of my hands.
I get these every so often as a newer climber (at 3 months now) and realized that a pumice stone after every session helps a ton. Obviously it's going to leave your hand feeling a bit raw at first as it did mine, but apply this thing called "ClimbOn" pretty regularly and ESPECIALLY after washing hands very thoroughly after climbing. You absolutely must make sure to wash off the chalk post-climb or it will keep sucking the moisture outta your hand.
Those little cracks tend to be where the chalk accumulates.
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TL;DR : Wash hands VERY thoroughly after climb, pumice stone in shower or sink, moisturize with non-water based moisturizer like ClimbOn sticks.
I have dry skin and pretty much every winter I get one or two (typically on the index finger as well).
You already got lots of good suggestions for split prevention.
Just wanted to add that in case they get very deep/open, what works really well for me is to apply regularly something of this sort (for maybe two or three days):
https://www.amazon.com/Urgo-Filmogel-Cracks-3-25ml/dp/B004GOXEV8
It hurts like hell, but it makes wonders.
After the split closes, I keep moisturizing (a lot, locally) and sanding.
Honestly, after the initial injury it took me about a year and a half. This would have been reduced significantly if I had seen the climbing physio and done the stuff above earlier, likely a couple of months.
Regarding the rice bucket, yes I started doing them after the physio recommended it and it really helped.
The most important thing is to stop climbing in a way that aggravates it, avoid mantels, dynos, sloppers for a while and stick to crimps, pinches juggs etc. until your wrist is in a really good place. If any move or hold feels a bit weird go try another problem.
Regarding self massage, I bought a black roll mini and use it on my extensor and flexor muscles on my fore arms, avoid the wrist area and use it more towards the muscle near your elbow.
Good luck with your recovery!
A lot of gyms have extra large elastic bands that can be used for this sort of thing. The ones my gym has form a circle probably 2 ft across and they're strong enough and stretchy enough that I can attach them to the pull up bar and put my foot through them and then use them for assisted pullups. Here's an example. Even if they don't have them, they're cheap and small so you could bring them with you
Probably too tight - regardless I used to get a more mild version of what you have on your big toe. Wearing these basically solved my problem. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXXXL9G/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_QSTykFi3CGEnn
I use this stuff whenever my hands start getting like that. Put on at night and let it soak in. Wouldn’t be without now. It has a healing/sterilising effect too, in that when I get a flapper or sthg it helps it heal quicker. Obv there are other products in the market but I swear by this stuff. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0017TK2TC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_HVDAB6HCB9WJ8153D2NT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if its the same fusion but Kyra Condie had a spinal fusion from scoliosis heres an interview with her where she talks about it a little: https://castbox.fm/episode/Ep.-116%3A-Not-So-Reckless-Abandon-with-Kyra-Condie-id70675-id107724850?country=us
I'd agree with that, I've not looked at many fitness apps. Pesronally I use Endomondo to log my commutes and hiking thats about it, its not very useful for climbing. I use the Beastmaker App for my fingerboarding but its pretty useless if you use a custom work out.
It is the easiest way of collecting lots of data though.
Personally I've used Google Forms to emulate the Rock Climbers Training Manual to record my own training, its not perfect and I'm a long way off having completed writing any code to present the accumulated data in any sensible format. My intention is to write a Shiny Interface in R and host the code on Github so that anyone can take a copy of my Google form and then use the code to summarise their own training. I just have too little time available with work, 2yr old, wife, a few friends I like to keep in touch with, family, and actually trying to climb myself to sit down and do a great deal. This wouldn't lend itself to mass accumulation of data across people though in the same way as applications would.
I got those, you screw them in instead of hammering. Solves the spinning problem. https://www.amazon.com/Escape-Climbing-Hardware-Installation-Included/dp/B00FJGT7QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=climbing+t+nuts&qid=1633214013&sr=8-6
> Gymnastic Foundations 1 is the best thing. I think you have to pay for it, but I found some PDF and videos way back, so good luck on the search.
If you're taking about Sommer's stuff, it is not that good for climbing at all.
I've written one of the most popular books on gymnastics and bodyweight strength training, and I don't think much of traditional gymnastics stuff is that great for climbing
Examples:
Ok.
Steve's Rack Shack Premium Birch Hangboard Grip Trainer | Designed to Strengthen Your Fingers, Wrists, Grips, arms and More (Made in The USA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089DPP7KM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YDY9SMD232ZW9BMBB5KQ
I like, but it's not rails. Not a fan of the 10s being so close together.
Thanks though, bud!
There's a board called "Steve's rack shack" that comes with standard depths and is even listed on the lattice website as an option when you are doing their protocol. 40 bucks gets you really all you need. To be clear, I haven't used this, but found it after I spent more on basically the same thing
Damn sorry. Let's try that again. If this is also, broken, because I'm an imbecile, type in "Steve's Rack Shack Hangboard" into Amazon and it should pop up. $40 as of today
Consult a PT for medical advice. That being said, when I went to one he suggested I buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P9CQMD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_QR0WP2NCYMF9HR3N8G2G And this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLYNWIU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_AEV06V0ESWWBYT6CZXCP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 After using the massage thing squeeze the putty in 3 ways: like a stress ball, open grip, and full crimp. Doing extensor exercises may help as well
I'm pretty sure I got these. I like 1.25 because it is much more comfortable to false grip
As for party tricks, the muscle up isn't a bad one and IMO is easier than a bar muscle up. L-sit or V-sit will be impressive if you let people try it lol. Front lever is attainable for pretty much every climber (mine has been slowly improving without any training whatsoever, completely passively...). If you learn back lever then pulling between them will be sick. It honestly doesn't take much to impress with the rings since they are generally so difficult.
Nope, it's a different supplement. I just buy it on Amazon, there are loads of brands, it usually comes with rosehip, turmeric and some other things too, like this.
I bought it just on the off chance it would help, I was really surprised how effective it was. It was noticeable after just a couple of days.
a salve is basically what you're talking about, different word for a similar thing
but yeah don't moisturize that much... before doing anything else try decreasing the frequency to directly post-climbing. you gotta get your skin drier
you don't have to use rhino, there are a lot of other antihydrals. methenamine is the main ingredient that you should be looking for - i just found this and it indeed ships to italy.
I’m a college student and moving around so can’t drill a hang board into the wall. I have one of those little wood blocks hanging from a pull-up bar I use. How much worse is this than a real hangboard, and is it worth investing in a big one
Could try cutting up and glueing in something like this product: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGYT8M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_H64B8KW2MM1YYGFQ56HS
I'd also be interested in modifying a shoe to shape the toebox to his foot. Maybe ask a local climbing gym for old shoes they're throwing out to practice tailoring on? You can cut em apart and put them back together with shoe goo. I would think this option would get the best climbing performance. It might take some trial and error but he'd have the coolest shoes!
This is the top hit on Amazon for hydrolyzed collagen.
You need to eat four servings a day, and that pound will only last you one week = $100 a month.
I use one of these small foam rollers and it works a treat BLACKROLL Standard Foam Roller. 30 cm Original massage roll for fascia training https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0776ZX6L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K43PSGWR6CCBF6JM79S9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this one. It mixes great in hot beverages which is how I use it.
Great Lakes Gelatin, Collagen Hydrolysate, Unflavored Beef Protein, Kosher, 16 Oz Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KG7EDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9J8K9AR3BDXB3HMMQPED
I highly suggest the Anderson brothers' Rock Climbers Training Manual https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Training-Manual/dp/0989515613
Focusses primarily on strength and fitness/endurance. The training program they suggest is highly customizable and good for all levels of climbing. I primarily climb trad, but following this training I'm able to keep up with my sport/bouldering friends.
hey, I've been using this micro traxion py petzl, to top rope solo, they work very well, but you'll probably need to replace your rope more often you use it a lot
The best thing I ever bought for my crash pad set up is a pair of lightweight ratchet straps so that I could easily strap together multiple pads.
For solo bouldering, as important as crash pads is the choice of problem. Many boulders have falls which are perfectly fine even without pads, and many boulders have problems that are unpleasant alone even with a couple of pads.
For many problems, you are just looking for something to stop you smashing your butt on the ground, so 3" foam is often plenty.
I have been pretty impressed with my LED work lamp from Lighting Ever/Lepro (i think they are a generic, only on amazon kinda brand, seemed like a tier above the super generic disappearing brand) - the exact model I use isn't available any more, but this seems to be a current one that I would happily purchase.
I prefer the 'flat' styles of lamp when compared to the 'tripod' style (example), since I found the tripod style more bulky and easier to break.
I would consider buying two lights if you can, that way you can light from left and right and minimise the amount of shadow on the rock.
I use an A4 day-to-page diary (my exact one is this model) which works really well for me because the huge size lets me be really messy and disorganised. Most people that I know would just use a standard small notebook (like this) so they can fit it easily in their gym bag.
I find spreadsheets to be too rigid for my logs and I like to record my reps during my rest periods, so it's nice to minimize time touching my phone/laptop with chalky hands.
Whatever system you use I think keeping everything in the same place is probably good, because an important thing for you to track will be your overall volume. That way if you have a week where your circuit training goes badly and the week before you were doing way more running than normal that you still haven't recovered from, it'll be easier to diagnose the problem.
Uh, you're still doing too much.
> Zone 1: feeling fresh, ready to climb!
> Zone 2: slight ache immediately after pumpy climb (no pain), fades a few minutes after
> Zone 3: no pain during climbing, ache is present several hours afterwards
> Zone 4: mild discomfort during climbing, ache but no pain afterwards
You should be in Zone 1 at the most. There's no distinguishable factors that make Zone 2-4 any worse than each other, but they are all definitely starting to push overuse ("reactive tendinopathy"). You shouldn't be doing any significant climbing in that range or you can easily make it worse.
I've written a mega-article and book on tendinopathy, so if you wanted to learn more why that's bad then here ya go:
http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/
https://www.amazon.com/Overcoming-Tendonitis-Systematic-Evidence-Based-Tendinopathy/dp/1947554026/
Regarding fear of falling: mental training is a huge factor in climbing, not just for overcoming fear of falling but also for learning what to do about the internal dialogue.
I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND a book on this stuff that has helped a lot of people, myself included: Arno Ilgner's The Rock Warrior's Way. Definitely check it out.
cruxtec.ca but it's not working for me right now. looks like they also sell it on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Mounted-Training-Station-V2-0/dp/B07XSYNVLH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Climbing+Holds&qid=1614710105&refinements=p_4%3ACruxtec&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-1&ts_id=3402441
I decided to create an Android app in my spare time to facilitate taking this test. Just wanted to share it, cheers!
App Link : Strength Test 9C - Google Play
what do you think about this instead
what do you think about this instead
I wrote this article and the book linked therein. Please read it. It contains the answers to the questions you asked.
http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/
https://www.amazon.com/Overcoming-Tendonitis-Systematic-Evidence-Based-Tendinopathy/dp/1947554026/
Hey, thanks for your reply. I completely agree that there has to be a training load tracking element and that is something we aim to address in the analytics section of our app. Today it does some "stuff" but we want to work with climbers to get it right long term, so the more feedback the better :)
In terms of session time the app currently does the following -
- When you start a session the session start time is set to "now" but can be changed, for example, if you needed to retrospectively log a session.
- When you save a session you must set the end time, the dialog defaults to "now" so you can simply press "OK" and it will save your session time exactly.
- The app also has a rest timer which starts counting when you log your first set of a given workout. This allows for exact rest timings. This doesn't get logged but helps you time the sets well.
- When logging workouts, you can set the targeted rest time between sets and also between reps. This does get recorded
Regarding intensity, it is possible to track effort zones and motivation to train and the app has analytics to reflect that data.
All the above mentioned features are available today in the Android app. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.super8bit.climbz&hl=en_GB&gl=US
I don't understand how it could possible save you a meaningful amount of money - chalk is cheap.
Just use this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HXBNZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We got the mats below for $145 for 4x8 and then ordered 60 pounds of shredded foam for $120 from fombag to sew into a soft topper. Not sure how it compares to we sell mats, but it’s working well for us so far.
ZENOVA Gymnastics Mat Landing Mat 3'x6'x4''/4'x6'x4'' Thick Durable Practice Mats for Tumbling, Wrestling,Core Workouts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJKTTVX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_9-CVFbBMRY7YD
Don't expect linear progression. Go slowly. Climbing is going to give you the best bang for your buck. The other exercises aren't compulsory, but becoming a stronger athlete will overall help you. However, you have to understand the overall stress you're putting on your system, even if it is "antagonist" muscle groups. It stresses the whole body, requires more rest, tires you out, and prevents adaption after recovery.
I've heard deadlift is a good one to weave into climbing training.
As a new weak boulder, I wouldn't recommend weighted dead hanging. You're going to get very strong forearm muscles without given the tendons time acclimate to the new forces put on them. I would recommend John Kettle's book to you. Technique will help you more than strength here.
>My focus is mainly on injury prevention
The more tired you are, the more likely you are to get hurt. Keep progressing slowly. Read some books, as climbing is a relatively new sport and we barely have data to back up claims.
Maybe this helps: according to Vagy's rehab book, after progressing through unloading and mobility phases, you would move on to strength phase by finding a baseline where you can hang in an open hand position with minimal pain. Then, you would build on that to more aggressive positions over the course of weeks.
> Throughout this exercise progression, your pain should always be below three on a scale of 0-10, and you should never feel an increase in pain or soreness lasting more than 30 minutes after the hang or the next day... you can slowly increase the load from your baseline by 2.5 pounds every week as long as there is no increase in finger pain or soreness during or after the workout.
Me and friend have actually created such an app 🙂 The next release will include the ability to log hangboard training and will be out in the next couple days.
Android is here and although there is an iOS version it is behind the Android one somewhat.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.super8bit.climbz