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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/electricvehicles:
![[Only for J1772 EVs] Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40 Amp & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector Only (White)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31FZxRof9qL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/electricvehicles:
DeepL Translator
ScrapeHero
Omni Calculator
ConsumerReports.org
The Motley Fool
SlideShare
SemanticScholar
Weatherspark
Ecosia
Disqus
CNET
Bypass Paywalls
Wordnik
Polarsteps
Reddit Enhancement Suite
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/electricvehicles:
Leaf Spy Pro
myEVroute
Navier HUD 3
MyHyundai with Blue Link
evTripn
AccuBattery
PlugShare
The most popular reviews in /r/electricvehicles:
> From time to time, bears will cite a figure of how many thousands of dollars Tesla loses per vehicle...
>The reason why those attention-grabbing figures are misleading is that they include operating expenses, which includes all of the investments that the company is making to fund future growth. That includes R&D, design, and engineering expenses, as well as massive amounts of capital expenditures to build product tooling and manufacturing infrastructure.
>Tesla's gross margin is actually quite impressive and higher than rivals Ford (NYSE:F) and General Motors (NYSE:GM), specifically because Tesla only plays in the niche luxury segment right now. On a gross profit basis, Tesla made over $18,000 per vehicle last year.
Not suggesting anything, but check this out!
Car accessories for non-EV cars parked in EV spots
I am also not suggesting making a small riddle they would have to solve to find the keys ��
How old is the house/wiring? If your outlets are not properly grounded, it will show a fault. In which case you should definitely be consulting an electrician before you attempt charging - even the "slow charger" draws enough amps continuously to start an electrical fire on crappy wiring or outlets.
If you have any surge protectors with a "Ground Fault" or "Not Grounded" or "Not Protected" light on them, that will tell you pretty quick. You can also buy a receptacle tester online or at your local hardware store.
Kinda..But you probably don't want to use that adapter.
First, is that the connector your dryer uses? 10-30 is the old plug, should upgrade it to 14-30 (you'd replace the outlet and the dryer cord if you use a dryer). Specifically because an EVSE requires ground. I had the same connector on my dryer, opened it up and there was a ground, so the change was easy. I will say since dryers are dedicated circuit the adapter will probably work.
Second, 6-50 is for a 50A circuit, 10-30 is for a 30A circuit (which is probably what your dryer is on). That means you can only install a 24A or smaller L2 EVSE. You need to be careful when getting your EVSE to make sure.
Given all that, I would not buy that adapter, swap the plug with a 14-30, and change the dryer cord if you have one. Then buy a 24A EVSE with a 14-30 plug, like this or this (the clipper creek is better, but obviously price). You'll note that Amazon one has a 10-30 option if you can't upgrade the outlet for whatever reason.
I believe it is LeafSpy:
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy_Pro&hl=en_US
iOS: LeafSpy Pro by James Pollock https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/leafspy-pro/id967376861?mt=8
Yes, but not Superchargers. You can use Tesla destination and home installed chargers. It is only an L2 solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Lectron-Tesla-Charger-J1772-Adapter/dp/B07V7V2QT8
Superchargers are L3 and Tesla only.
Isnt this a complete red herring given that there are other companies out there that have charging stations.
It would be like saying "Shell is a big gas station company, and there are no shell stations in Montana. How does anybody drive a gas car in Montana without a shell station!!!"
If the GFCI resets and the test button works it should be okay. You can get a simple tester at the local big box stores or online if you want to confirm externally from the test button.
If the circuit breaker reset it also should be okay.
So it would seem both devices did what they were supposed to do when a fault occurred. Go team!
I'd plug something else (um, inexpensive) into that GFCI, both outlet holes, and wiggle it around a bit to see if anything happens. You want to rule out something like a loose wire in the box behind the outlet cover isn't to blame.
If that test passes, then you're left with sparks, popping noise, and smell burnt electronics on the EVSE. Yeah, I'm not sure I'd be willing to trust it on my car again.
just keep one of these in your trunk and throw it on there https://www.amazon.com/Hurbo-Adjustable-Anti-Theft-Parking-Trailer/dp/B07D73FYWY/ref=zg_bs_15706751_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HXD5FP150WP52M1QHJ40
No, but I think it's time all EV owners need to start carrying these in their vehicles with them from now on - Motion Pro 08-0183 Valve Core Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KO84I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QfXmCbCF6BEE6
You can get L2 charging from just your mobile connector if you get a larger nema 6-50 or 14-50 receptacle and adapter. Our electrician just hooked up 50A to a nema 6-50 and we do scheduling just in the car.
The receptacle could easily convert to a direct wiring for a Chargepoint or Clipper Creek down the road if you wanted, and is also fairly universal (example on Amazon).
I recommend you install PlugShare from the Play Store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xatori.Plugshare You can locate compatible stations at will and find out in advance which networks they belong to.
Your best bet is to use L2 chargers when you go shopping. There are portable battery packs that can be used for the purpose you propose, but they're anything but cost effective and require you to use a mobile charger where you can limit the charge rate to ~1kW. It will take several trips/days to fully charge a PHEV battery that way.
According to this book --
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1946767034
Anything weighing less than 3000 lbs is a good candidate. The less weight, the better.
A VW bug weighs in around 1800 lbs. MB Midget around 2000.
Stick to manual transmissions, or consider replacing the transmission with a planetary gear box (basically a one-speed transmission you never shift.) You'll need to do a little math to figure out the ratio you need -- it's in that book too.
If you replace the transmission, you'll need something with a drive shaft instead of a transaxle, so that rules out the VWs.
Good luck!
9.6kW, comes with 14-50 plug. Specs don't really justify the price.
Commonly used adapters from Tesla:
- 5-15 this is a normal outlet, charges at 12A@120V your car will come with this adapter. Very slow charging.
- 5-20 is used in modern outdoor outlets. Allows charging at 16A@120V still slow but a noticeable improvement over 5-15.
- 14-50 is used in modern RV parks. Charges at 32A@240V works really well for charging.
Tesla sells more adapters but I haven't found the other ones particularly useful.
When you use an outlet you can only pull 80% of the rated capacity maximum. A normal household outlet is rated at 15A but to stay below 80% you can only draw 12A. Tesla's Mobile charger allows charging up to 32A@240V but is made to work with a bunch of different adapters. The nice thing is when you use one of their adapters it will automatically adjust the Amperage to the right level so you don't overload the circuit.
Other outlets:
- TT-30 is used in many older campgrounds. Charges at . Here is an 3rd party adapter meant to work with Tesla's mobile charger.
There are other adapters like this that just do a plug conversion but that is converting a 30A plug to a 14-50 50A plug which means the car will think it can pull the maximum amount of power(32A) which will overload the circuit because you should only be pulling 24A max out of a 30A circuit. Using a Tesla's charging screen you can dial down the Amps when charging at an outlet like this but you need to be careful when using plug conversion adapters.
Get a note. Also, it doesn't hurt to buy a cheap thermometer strip. My friend does this all the time and has a note and a thermometer like https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Temperature-Fermenting-Kombucha-Aquariums/dp/B08617FWSM
Yeah it's a bit more work, but it's also much more obvious with a big note on the window.
Seconding Greenworks. I've had the 80v self propelled version for a couple summers now and it's still going strong. Handles thick bermuda no problem, but I would recommend 2 batteries if you have a lawn that takes more than 45 minutes, that way you can cycle between them for unlimited mow time.
That's one of the car's selling points. It went up against several powerful cars during CES, including a Bentley Bentayga, a Ferrari 488 GTB, a Tesla Model X and a Tesla Model S: http://www.geekwire.com/2017/indoor-drag-race-ces-faraday-future-ff-91-vs-bentley-ferrari-tesla/
They do exist, such as http://www.setec-power.com/ccs-adapter/
There are no adapters for Cascading Style Sheets for charging Teslas, but that's probably not what you meant.
Since the EVSE is limited to 16A this might work ok.
In a Tesla you would need to dial down the amperage to 24A when plugging into a 30A circuit so as to be 80% of rated load.
One thing that might cause problems is the TT-30 to 14-50 adapter. That is going from an outlet with 3 wires to an outlet with 4 which is tricky. I know with Tesla's mobile adapter. you can't use a standard TT-30 RV adapter as it doesn't work. You need to use one specifically designed to work with Teslas mobile charger. Like this or this.
If possible I would try to find a local RV park and test out your adapter before the trip.
Location would certainly help us answer this better. In short, no, the big red and white Tesla chargers only work on Tesla's cars. The "destination" units that are black and silver might work with your car with an adapter like this one, and that's assuming you're in the US and that the station isn't configured for greater than 40A output (if it is, it disables the legacy handshake that lets non-Teslas initiate the charge session).
There might be better ones out there but something like this would work. Just search for "parking violation stickers"
The company is saying around 50 miles. That 130 miles claim is >One hurdle the company has yet to address is the limited range offered by electric motorcycles. The batteries must be recharged after about 130 miles, and that can take 30 minutes to an hour.
However, as it appears in this article, I think the author meant "electric motorcycles" in general (e.g. Zero and Brammo), not specifically THIS electric motorcycle. The quote right after this claim is about a Zero motorcycle, not the HD Livewire.
I am talking about the original design that inspired this vehicle (the Westfalia, I believe.)
> The Model Y's price tag
By this time next year the Model Y will be the best selling car in the US because Tesla will be producing 2x to 3x as many in the US as they are now.
I fully expect after they get rid of the backlog for them to ease up on the price some and maybe even offer a SR+ version again (SR+ would be about $9,000 cheaper).
You can see the price history I archived at https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-tsla-the-investment-world-the-perpetual-investors-roundtable.139047/page-14672#post-5987194 or from the source at https://disqus.com/by/aldrichbautista/
Let's ignore all of the environmental issues for a moment (aptly addressed in other comments).
From a purely selfish point of view, EVs are taking off because they are better cars and cheaper to operate. The quick acceleration, incredible convenience of waking up to a full charge every morning, quiet drive, responsiveness, smooth handling (from the battery keeping the center of gravity low), and the one-pedal driving are all fantastic reasons to enjoy an EV.
For U.S. drivers, the average fuel efficiency of an ICE is around 25 mpg. At $2.50/gallon for gas, that works out to 10¢/mile. A Leaf gets about 4 miles/kWh. At 12¢/kWh, that works out to 3¢/mile. (If you go to time of use, you may be able to pay even less.)
So, if you drive 1,000 miles/month, you will save $100 on gas, but pay an extra $30 for electricity. A net savings of about $70/month. Note that operating cost savings are even higher than that because there is less maintaince (no oil changes and fewer parts to break) and many shared components last longer (e.g., brakes last much longer because regen braking reduces the use of the physical brakes). That works out to about $100/month, which is enough to offset financing a bit of extra money (allowing you to buy a nicer car).
In Hawaii, this math still works. Presumably, range anxiety will be less of an issue, and the fuel prices are all elevated. MapQuest shows gas prices at a bit over $3.15 at most stops, putting the cost to drive at 12.6¢/mile. Electricity costs about 30¢/kWh, putting the cost at 7.5¢/mile. (Though those crazy high electricity costs also make residential solar a slam dunk, reducing your long-term costs further and addressing your long tailpipe concerns).
This book will help.
You won't get any wiring diagrams on youtube videos.
You won't find the equation for sizing your batteries on youtube.
There are cheaper options than the EV West kit that use most of the same parts.
All that and more can be found here --
https://www.amazon.com/Convert-step-step-converting-electric/dp/1946767034
The charger is rated at 400W. My sonoff pow r2 switch measure 423W while charging. Take that with a grain of salt tho because I don't know how accurate these readings are. I wouldn't trust this switch over a decent multimeter.
Amazon sells a variety of J1772 replacement cables. Here's one for example:
https://www.amazon.com/evCHARGEsolutions-com-Charging-Station-Replacement-Charge/dp/B01CPST3W0
Just get a cheapo ($200-300) portable level 2 cord that does level 1 or 2 charging. 120v/240v, your choice. These generally level 2 charge at a slower rate.. but still are a nice option. You can level 2 charge at any rv park in a pinch with it.
Look at reviews. Here's the first result on Amazon:
Also, most cars lock the charger in place when you lock the car.
>the Fiat app is useless after 3 years
I loved that app! But they do have another for the Fiat 500eRocket
Uconnect
I have to disagree there. I did a comparison a while back. The Bolt is a fantastic value for the money considering it's range.
It's likely the best selling non-Tesla EV in America given it's sales numbers lately (last 3 months).
As others have pointed out, the lose $9k per car is very misleading because it includes fixed costs. The UBS report actually cited lack of scaled production as one reason for the high costs, so as it sells higher numbers it may become a lot more profitable.
It's not perfect, but frankly I am really impressed with it overall. Really good range, the interior looks not terrible at least. And it's selling quite well. It's owners seem pretty content with it. Considering this was GM's first serious attempt at an EV, I'm really excited for what else they have in store.
You are both pointing out issues about the gap between these prototypes and a practical application. However where the EcoMarathon is on the road, these are using tracks, and trains don't have airbags or crumple zones similar to cars. The idea of having extremely efficient vehicles at the cost of speed could solve the issue of range sufficiently with speeds up to 60km/h.
The expensive problem is the tracks and comfort, not necessarily the speed or even safety for that matter.
Example: Let us assume we can get drag down to half of the Hyundai Ioniq*
Assuming the vehicle in the record traveling no faster than 4.16m/s|15km/h we would get a drag force of 0.85N, increasing the speed to 16.6m/s|60km/h we get 13.54N. However that is per singular wagon, increasing the length of a wagon or having several carriages connected in a string like most trains have would not devastatingly increase this number. For the sake of making this simpler, let's assume each person needs 16 times more energy to achieve speeds of 60km/h in accordance with the increased drag. That would give us the number of ~1kWh/person/100km which is peanuts, and is probably an exaggeration in terms of energy consumption. What if it's closer to half that?
Pushing this train with let's say 20N to overcome air resistance, friction on level tracks and other factors for 1km in 60 seconds would require an energy input of 20kJ and energy output at an average of ~333W.
*Hyundai Ioniq has a cD of 0.24 and cDa 0.63m^2
Drag calculator
Please excuse bad and probably faulty physics =)
There is actually a Tesla to J1772 adapter. OP should get a Tesla charger, then get the adapter if/when they get a non-Tesla EV.
Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40A & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V7V2QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3AXKWRMGM408CK8R92B7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Tesla charger is a very good value for a 48A EVSE and you won’t need an adapter every time you charge it.
Could modify this a bit so the thicker cable fits in an opening.
SOCKiTBOX – The Original Weatherproof Connection Box – Indoor & Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Enclosure for Timers, Extension Cables, Holiday Lights, Power Tools, Fountains & More – Size Small – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RX5GI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JA7NA56MB6TVGFV6JFGX
You're referring to thefirst EVSE, correct?
I have read "The Toyota way" for a class for my masters degree in engineering. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0071392319/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F0GEQ8NTV0811390CMBR
What exactly is your insight that makes you so convinced that you are more knowledgeable than any random person you interact with online?
Yes, the shortsighted quest to maximize short term profits now threatens the long term viability of the company.
See also: The Innovator's delimma.
While I can’t speak too much of rural roads and the like, I can confirm the paint on these cars is quite fragile. For your application you’d be better off with PPF on the whole car (which will run 3-5K).
I have Front (Bumper/hood/lights/fenders) PPF on my mSM and it handles trips much better than my non-PPF white. The white one has quite. A few noticeable chips.
I used XPEL temporary PPF for my latest trip and it was great, but it would be a pain to do that quite a lot.
Big fan of the lighting and Maverick. If you’re looking to do some light off roaring and don’t won’t to worry as much, that would be my preference.
XPEL TW6T40 Clear Tracwrap 6" x40' Temporary Paint Protection Film https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CW1YYV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_E7NRoitumf7Gg
If it helps, I bought one of these tyre pressure gauges, I just keep it in the boot and it’s very accurate, takes no time at all to quickly check all four tyres regularly:
>this was prompted by my car navigating me to a charging station only for it to be a Tesla destination charger (with no accompanying J1772).
FYI, you can buy an adapter to charge at Tesla Destination chargers. Of course there's no way to charge at a Supercharger.
No-name chargers are okay in a pinch, but I'd be looking for something UL rated for everyday use. The cheap chargers usually don't have overheat protection and can melt a faulty outlet.
For 120v, I'd recommend looking on eBay for an OEM cable from Chevy, Nissan, or Toyota. I'm using a Toyota EVSE on my Leaf: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124739921259
For 240v you should consider a hardwired, mounted charger, which will make it harder for anyone to walk off with. The new JuiceBox is a little pricy, but it has a nice locking bracket with a key designed for public applications. Plus you can get a tax credit for 30% of your purchase and installation costs... https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-40-Next-Generation-Electric-Charging/dp/B07ZL41687/
Put in the 14-50 Receptacle with an outdoor covered box. That is what any RV park has. I carry my home EVSE BougerRV when we go on the road and no problems charging.
Campgrounds charge one rate for tent camping and a higher rate for RV hookup sites. Example: $20 vs $35 per night.
Just put in your listings that you have 250 service with a 14-50R and you do not need to invest further. This way all basis are covered and if people need to charge more than one in a night, that does not need to be your issue. They are probably used to juggling. If after a while you see you need to upgrade because of the feedback you receive, that will be an easy upgrade.
> You can test it yourself by running a hair dryer (or similar high load device) on the plug that you intend to use.
Yes, that loads the circuit, but in addition to the load, electric vehicle charging requires a correctly grounded circuit. A tool like the one below is cheap and tests for correct grounding as well as other issues (reversed polarity, etc).
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Receptacle-Extension/dp/B00170KUPC
But an electrician's inspection is worth it. It's not much money relative to the amount of money you'll be putting into an electric vehicle to make sure your home's circuits are up to the task. (And you'll likely make up the difference in operating expenses between electric and gasoline in a very short time)
Especially in the northern parts of the USA and in Canada, many older places already have outlets for engine block heaters. Those can be used for EVs quite effectively.
What do you think of an outlet like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001JEPX44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VltaGbHVDN060?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap, simple and lockable. Seems ideal.
Same link, but with Amazon SMILE
Costs you nothing to use Amazon Smile but gives so much.
Here's an extension to have it always convert your amazon.com to smile.amazon.com
I bought and installed one through the Amazon purchase and install option, also for my 2015 Leaf. Worked out very well, and the guy (who was an independent contractor) did a terrific neat job. I only had the necessary two slots left in my breaker box, so he did have to move an existing single breaker to make the two open slots next to each other so he could put in the new double-breaker. I got a tax break for putting the EVSE in (2016), so that saved me nearly $300. I've use it about 3 times a week for 18 months, and it's been great. As Withervein said, have a look at your breaker box, and make sure you have two slots left, then go for it. I got the Siemens VC30GRYU and I find it a lot less hassle than dealing with the trickle cable. I just looked at the page again, and the current estimate for install is $1000 at my location. I only paid $397 at the time. A grand seems way excessive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFVI92S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
> Cycling the battery from 0 to 100%
Funny when people say that EV will degrade like their smart phone and I say "I only charge to 80% and try not to go below 20% for more than an hour." and then the reply "Who does that with their phone?" and I say "I do, my phone vibrates at 90% and I unplug it, doesn't everyone?". So far ~2 year old cased Moto x4, 675 sessions, 22,472% charged, ~93% battery SoH. Spouse is roughly 2x as much sessions and charged with same phone and age with around 91% SoH (but stops at 80% SoC). I think we have both accidentally charged to full maybe 10 times each. I do the same thing with my smart watch if I can, only charge it for ~30 minutes if it is below 50% SoC.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.evranger.soulspy is the application you need for reading the state of health of the battery. There is a Lite version that is free but I'm not sure of that can see the state of health...
Money that I would have otherwise paid in taxes is the government's money, not mine, end of story. It's money that they would have otherwise collected and used for something else. It may not be a literal subsidy, but the government most definitely did pay me money to change my behavior.
TIL that the definition of "subsidy" is "money paid by a government to help an organization or industry reduce its costs, so that it can provide products or services at lower prices". So you are technically correct, because the government is trying to increase adoption of EVs by paying the consumer instead of the manufacturer. It's an ass-backwards way to avoid the appearance of a subsidy, when a proper subsidy is what they should have used in the first place.
That isn't really clear. Straight from the horse's mouth:
>Now it's time for change for me: Since 1996 I've had a weekend marriage and family. Now Corona has brought me home and we have found that we can live together. This is where I want to stay now. Thank you all and sorry if it was "too much".
>
>
>
>What's Next? After SmartCars now come SmartBoats, a nautical passion that I will devote myself to together with the family. I wish you/us the health and strength to overcome the challenges and setbacks and not to lose sight of the goal. I hope we stay in touch and see each other on the road or on the sea.
>
>
>
>Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Overall this sounds like he is retiring and wants to sail the world. "SmartBoats" seems to be just tongue in cheek...
https://www.npr.org/templates/transcript/transcript.php?storyId=304540007
> SMITH: Philip Clannad (ph) who is one of the car cleaners here, he just looked at us like we were crazy. Now, look at this through the eyes of a regulator. They see that Americans like Zoe sometimes don't wear their seatbelts that Germans like Philip always wear theirs. So when they get together, when the Germans get together to design their airbags, they assume everyone's wearing a seat belt. Their airbags can be smaller, more targeted. They know where the head of a person is going to go in a crash because a German is wearing his seatbelt.
This article from 4 years ago: https://www.slideshare.net/AutoIQ/traction-application-insight-by-jaguar-land-rover
Talks about how Landrover has been working on Ferrite magnet motors. This is likely the zero-rare-Earth motor they are talking about for the cext-gen electric drive units.
I know, sorry - I couldn't find another source for the story. There is something here but you will have to right, click > inspect element > insert "display: none;" on the style of that element and then remove all styling from the body text to remove the blur ;) Or you can find and post another source and I'll delete this one.
Hmm, I think the worrysome degradation of battery is mostly contained to first gen leaf in next-level hot places like the southern US. The 2014 onwards 24 kwh leaf has a better battery with regards to the degradation anyways. So if you want a practical car go for the leaf. If you want fun, go for the fiat.
Another thought: this may be an announcement about short-distance heavy duty trucking. But if it includes long-distance trucking, would it be possible to have a battery swap system for instant recharge of the truck? Or maybe even a truck-swap system, where the vehicle pulls into a re-loading bay and the truck is swapped out into a recharging bay and the new truck quickly mounted up front. The driver has a toilet break and a coffee, and is off again!
> you simply won’t be able to make it between many chargers.
Doesn't seem to be true. People have managed New York to Los Angeles and coast to coast in Canada in an Audi e-tron.
I've been planning a road trip recently, and I discovered that there are a lot of hotels with chargers that don't show up on Hotels.com. PlugShare has an option to filter by accomodation that has been very helpful.
My CPA was asking me for additional business expenses this week, and he was laughing that I don't have gas receipts any more. And with my $0 electric bills (solar panels), I got nothin' he can use.
I didn't care.
There's a lot of free charging that I sometimes use around my city when I'm out doing an errand--and because the free parking is sweeter than the electrons. But even if it's free to us, it's possible to calculate the value of that in power costs. And my Chargepoint receipt also gives me the ICE equivalent. https://www.screencast.com/t/EvcVohjgcI
Agree. OP's comment is a complete red herring given that there are other companies out there that have charging stations.
It would be like saying "Shell is a big gas station company, and there are no shell stations in Montana. How does anybody drive a gas car in Montana without a shell station!!!"
>DIY - Add Time Control and Wifi Monitoring to Siemens Versicharge EVSE
For some reason my high level hardware and code detail post isn't showing up. Must be getting caught in some kind of filter. Here is a link to the text with all of the details and links to the code: https://workflowy.com/s/diy-add-time-control/wN1JpWBdphLysqrF
haha fair point. I was referring to how laptops can use USB-C PD to power themselves (3A so up to 60W at 20V but some can go as high as 100W so 5A?) but the alternative was putting 4x 1a 5v Micro USB (and up the spec to 20v).
I would hate to need to plug in ~4 plugs when I could plug in 1 but at some point just have something automatically plug in for me, or maybe an adjustable arm.
Out of curiosity do you know how would they balance multiple plugs? 1 plug per battery 'module'; so what if the station had 1 plug broken, wait until 3 are full then charge the last? relays flipping to keep all the packs balanced? Can they just put the plugs in series and DC will automatically pull just the right amount from each plug?
True.
Next question: Is the wire in the outlet 14 gauge or 12 gauge?
If it’s the latter, you would upgrade the circuit to a 6-20, which should be more common EVSE plug.
Edit: example
Megear Level 1-2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station(NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G19PAZVSSPGHATBEXNHG
I agree I bought a full shade for the front window, and then also got some for the side windows. They are great for sitting in the car while charging. You can see through them but really help with keeping things cool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09168T1VC
I agree. I feel like I’d ride around with one of these leather aviator helmets.
> They do not have a EV battery to EV battery charging solution presently.
Right sorry my statement were 2 separate parts. OpenEVSE will provide you with an API you can adjust with some sort of house monitor.
The V2V setup would be tapping into the 12v power (in a Model 3/Y 2.5kW 12v is under the rear seat) and using an inverter to 120v (assuming USA) to trickle charge the other EV at L1 speeds. If you have a non Tesla you should be able to connect directly to 12v battery but need to research how much that car can output (I think the Leaf1 can do like 800w). At least with Tesla and Bolt but maybe others you would need to leave the car on somehow.
You couldn't? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.enbw.ev
It's ENBW, a German energy provider. Per kWh prices 29 cents AC and 39 cents DC as a plus member. 39 cents AC and 49 cents as a base customer. Prices include all AC and DC chargers in Germany, and most in France, Italy, Netherlands, Austria, Switzerland etc. Ionity costs 79 cents.
Got this two years ago and I charge my Leaf every night with it. No problem and I can take it with me to RV parks and charge when camping.
I filed out the form, but you're right, the product is very hypothetical. Like building a time machine, it's probably impossible with current tech.
Cars aren't large enough to hold enough solar panels on the roof rack to power an EVSE. The portable battery pictured based on rough size in the picture probably could hold battery capacity to supply 5-8 miles of EV range and would take two days to charge with a roof rack full of solar panels.
Products like this...
...already exist and are mostly unsuitable for EV charging.
I don’t know the legal aspects, but this might get you what you want: Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40A & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V7V2QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51E80AA5NVX4ZJ32KAEA
Here's my patented 3 step process to prevent house fires.
- Replace the outlet ASAP with a heavy duty version. Wire it using the screw terminals.
- Get an Arc Fault (AFCI) breaker or outlet to stop this kind of fire hazard from happening again.
- Do not look at, consider, let alone purchase ANYTHING not UL listed.
This clippercreek unit is solidly reliably, has a 3 year warranty, passes every safety test, and will not burn your house down.
It's called a sprayer boom and it was a bit over $110.
To be honest I thought about getting the parts and assembling it myself, but than I don't want to invest all the time and money only to possibly screw something up and cause damage to either the unit, my car, or the house. 240v and 40amps can be very dangerous. I did disassemble it to some degree in order to be able to pass the cable through the pipe and reconnect it (the handle is way too complicated and we'll built to try anything with). If something ever burns out or goes bad I feel like I would be able to replace the components, but at the stage it's not worth the risk.
congrats. welcome to the family. Depending on what is behind your Tesla, you can mount this on the left side to keep the cord neater and shorten the distance.
Siemens VersiCharge is cheaper than the Juicebox Pro 40, will charge almost any non-Tesla EV at its full speed, is just a plug-in install (not hard wired) with a nice long cord and attractive design, and has a 3 year warranty from one of the best equipment manufacturers in the world. Made in California, USA. Amazon can have it on your doorstep tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-US2-VersiCharge-Installation-Compatibility/dp/B00MFVI92S
I got one of these 7 months ago. Price on Amazon fluctuates, they have a warehouse used item for $386. I bought new for $409, seen it go as high as $440 or so. Also saw a Home Depot add for a refurbished unit for $379 recently.
The Siemens unit is 30Amp, some other units are 32A but considerably costlier. The 2A difference is probably just a couple of minutes with a PHEV, it charges my Bolt from 40-90% in 6 hours or less typically.
It is simple but reliable. It is rock solid and should last many years, so a used or refurb unit should be good as new.
Chances of sales on L2 EVSE are probably more likely around Earth Day than the holidays.
​
Electrical safety suggests never exceed 80% of the circuit capacity. So a 24A EVSE would fit the bill.
It will be slower than a 30-32A which provides up to 7.7kW of power to the car, a 24A EVSE will provide about 5.8kW.
The real question is, will this be enough? Clipper Creek has some literature on their Amazon listing comparing charge times for various EVs with the different chargers they offer. Generally, it will take 1-2 hours more to fully charge with a 24A EVSE vs a 32A. A Leaf will top off in 6-7 hours, a Kona as much as 10 hours.
But, keep in mind, if you have a Time of Use plan for power, your available time to charge might pinch your ability top top off without paying considerably more for your utility bill. If you daily use is not too demanding, you may be ok. For example, if you use 50% of the charge daily, cut the above times in half roughly.
Certainly better than trying to get by with 120V service.
low beams (needed an adapter to fit the mk7.5 bulb socket, was $8 or so): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XP1GG13?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
High Beams: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BJMKDD5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Couldn’t be happier with them. They both match the running daylights in color, No glare for oncoming cars or passengers (tested a bunch with a friend cos I was worried about that, but turns out the golf headlights are designed very well so they reliably limit the height of the lights), and yet far reaching and bright. Traffic signs are much easier to see cos they reflect more.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/JuiceBox-40-Next-Generation-Electric-Charging/dp/B07ZL41687
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^preformed ^^^automatically.
> I don't have access to charging at work, so when I go out I have to really plan on where I want to go if I want to keep EV only.
Same. I wish I could just run an extension cord out the window and trickle charge...
> Our city only has 1 L2 public charger (with 2 spots) so yeah... not much choice :( Our local utility was planning on getting a bunch of these grants to put L2/DCFC's all over the place but they lost out to KSI - who went from a total of 4 chargers in our city to a total of 1 DCFC now.
KSI is screwing up this initiative big time. From other postings, they underbid and bit off way more than they can chew. Their Android and iOS apps also suck.
The changes to the original map leaves a slew of gaps. Hopefully Canadian Tire's deployment and other network expansions by ChargePoint, Flo, and others will make things easier.
> ~~L2's~~ L2s
~~DCFC's~~ DCFCs
Apostrophes do not make words, acronyms, or initialisms plural... except in a few rare circumstances -- of which this is not.
It would be interesting to see what Leaf Spy says about the battery health. Many leafs with that many miles are at about 86%, the first bar doesn't drop off until you get under 85%. The other bars drop off more quickly. I think that Nissan designed the system so that the vehicle would not show any capacity loss during the first 2-3 years.
Well, if you were seen by an anti-EV person you'd be mocked mercilessly, but if you don't mind that, you'd need to pack a gas generator in your trunk or frunk. Something like this -
https://www.amazon.com/maXpeedingrods-Inverter-Generator-Electric-Compliant/dp/B0B747WH4V
Check out the NEC, it will have all of the situational and wire sizing information you need.
https://www.amazon.com/NFPA-National-Electrical-Code-2023/dp/1455929360/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=national+electrical+code+2023&qid=1671535844&sprefix=national+e%2Caps%2C306&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0
Oh, hi, fellow EV6 Wind RWD owner! Your comment about OpenEVSE having smart features housed on the device itself intrigues me. So I have a couple questions:
-What specific OpenEVSE product did you order? Or was it a custom job (I see they make them to order sometimes) that is hard to provide a link to?
-What home circuit do you have it hooked up to? NEMA 14-50? A 40 Amp circuit? Something else?
-What current do you attempt to charge at? Do you try to charge at 40 Amps on a 50 Amp circuit? 32 Amps on a 50 Amp circuit? etc etc If you go for any charging current that is less than the max your circuit can support, do you control that current from the EV6 side (by selecting "Maximum/Reduced/Minimum" charging current speed in the "EV" menu)? Or from the OpenEVSE side?
-Do you ever experience charging session errors where the charge session stops unexpectedly? If so, how do you resume the charging session, and does OpenEVSE display any errors that explain what went wrong?
I ask all this because I use this and I get charging session interruptions pretty often unless I use either the reduced or minimum AC charging current settings in the EV6 menu. I'm plugged into a NEMA 14-50 outlet, and my EVSE screen usually shows anywhere from 210 to 240 V AC being supplied to it. My presumption is that there is a heat build up issue somewhere, but I don't know where. And I also don't know if that's really what's happening. So I'm curious of your setup manages to avoid charging session interruptions for whatever reason.
I know this is a long winded and detailed comment, but I appreciate any answers you can provide!
Try Emporia Charger. https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Electric-Vehicle-Charger-Hardwired/dp/B0BNT9F7W9 I saw it for sale that was in the mid 300s. maybe keep an eye on the prices. Been using it for about a year and it works great. You can set charge times from the app. Its been very easy to use.
This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XVQMVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Does abrp have a discord or reddit channel by any chance?
Get one of these to use at a TESLA charger
Then you need: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-WOTOBEUS-Charging-Cigarette-S21Ultra/dp/B09GJTF54Z/
And same with truckers with the same use case.
Your political belief are no different than your religious practices or pizza preferences.
As said above, physical constrains take precedence over subjective preferences. Society has to be sustainable before abiding by some made up belief.
Sustainable societies may not look like you fantasies about. Here a great read for you: https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Curve-Intelligence-Structure-Paperbacks/dp/0684824299
We actually went to Yosemite in July in our 2017 Bolt, before it got rear-ended by a 4Runner and totaled a month later. We went up 395 and came back on 99, using mostly free Caltrans chargers. Only had a problem with one of them, which refused to work and set the check engine light.
I've already put an inverter in our XTerra, so my plan is to do it similarly in the Bolt, except I will mount it under the hood instead of the dash, as my plan is to use a 2,000 watt unit that can take full advantage of the DC/DC converter's output. I also plan on adding a switch to disable the pedestrian alert for when we're parked in a campsite, by using one of these and wiring in a switch.
Yes, sodium is sodium. There's plenty of salt around though — if you're into it, the book Salt: A World History by Mark Kurlansky is excellent, genuinely one of the best books I've ever read about a seemingly niche topic.
>I keep a squeegee and spray bottle in the frunk, which I purchased from a Walmart while charging :)
We bought this squeegee/spray bottle combo--every EV owner should have one!
I share my garage dryer plug w/ an EVSE, charging 10 hours weekly. I use one of these, and it’s affordable ($50) and reliable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LKCMV7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
This has let me avoid the expense of adding another panel.
A model 3 battery module is 3.5" tall. An exhaust pipe isn't much smaller, and a muffler or catalytic convertor is about that height.
https://evannex.com/blogs/news/tesla-s-battery-pack-is-both-mysterious-and-alluring-work-in-progress
https://www.amazon.com/MagnaFlow-94014-Universal-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B000COPBV2
This one is on sale right now for $100 off. I bought an Autel through Amazon while it was on sale and love it. OTA updates, nice app, ethernet capable.. I put my electric rates in and it tells me how much I spend on charging. Mine even has RFID capabilities (mines mounted in a garage) that would keep anyone else from using it if it were mounted outside.
You could get a separate hook for looping the cable. Then you can have it exactly where you want it.
I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2DNGY2N
Simple, cheap, and functional.
Maybe something like this rubber seal and brush combo. Just cut the seal an inch short for the cable. The brush will deform when the cable is there and keep critters out when its not.