What are Reddit's favorite Defrag Apps?
Auslogics Disk Defrag
Puran Utilities
iDefrag
UltraDefrag
Power Defragmenter
Wise Disk Cleaner
Auslogics BoostSpeed
MyDefrag
PageDefrag
Puran Defrag
Contig
TechTool Pro
PerfectDisk
WinContig
CCleaner Cloud
UltimateDefrag
Toolwiz Care
Top Reddit reviews mentioning Defrag Apps:
Sounds like you did a cut and paste instead of a copy and paste. I always do copy and paste when it's important, then delete once the copy completes successfully and I can verify the copy works as intended. You can try using this on both drives. I'm not sure if there is a program that can repair files from two halves of them, but I know Windows will just 'lose' files if a cut and paste operation gets ended abruptly, it's happened to me on less important files before many times. Good luck to you. The linked file recovery program is the only free one I've found that has the best success rate of finding deleted files (assuming the drive was writing the data as it was receiving it, if some data was in the drives buffer, those bits will be lost). Most drives will buffer the data then write it once the buffer is full to make writes faster, most buffers are either 32 or 64MB.
As far as getting the drive working without a reformat, try and recover the bits first that are 'corrupted', then try running a filesystem check on the drive to repair the file table. Worse case scenario is you'll have to reformat it, if there are any files on there that aren't backed up, the linked recovery program should be able to recover them.
OS X does a pretty good job of keeping used files defragmented, on the boot disk anyway. There still are reasons to want to optimize a hard drive, or to reclaim contiguous free space on a data only drive. Or fix a Parallels/Windows XP partition ...now that's fragmentation!
For those jobs, check out iDfrag - it respects OS X hotfiles etc, and has some useful modes for other drives.
http://www.coriolis-systems.com/iDefrag.php
Otherwise, the free method would be to clean up your HD and make a couple of backups using something like SuperDuper. Then wipe your HD and restore from the backup. Instant defragmentation of files.
A filesystem repair in Disk Utility (as well as fsck) fixes some types of disrepair, but not the sort involving IO latency. Some people suggest solutions such as iDefrag, but from what I've seen it's not nearly as effective as a reformat.
There's a long, long list of Samsung drives which are afflicted by the slow read bug. It occurs after 9-40 weeks, depending on the namometer production process. For example, a 21nm NAND package's performance decays over 40 weeks. A 19nm TLC NAND package decays after 9 weeks.
Most Ultrabooks use some kind of TLC-based mSATA or ePCI SSD. For example, the Dell XPS 13 has a Samsung PM851 drive. The Lenovo Yoga also has TLC. Unfortunately, Samsung Magician is not compatible with the OEM drives used in Ultrabooks. The only tool I've seen that restores performance is DiskFresh.
EDIT: Samsung's policy regarding this debacle was to claim the drives are OEM and therefore aren't covered under warranty.
I've heard that this tool doesn't fix anything until it detects data read speeds in the 250 MB/s ballpark. Which is absolutely unacceptable in a SSD of this calibar.
I'm not even going to bother with this "fix". Since Samsung botched the first one and then missed their March projection for the release of the second attempt, I've taken things into my own hands.
I run weekly HDTune benchmarks and save the results. Once I see read speeds trending downward below 400 MB/s, I run DiskFresh. It's not a fast program but it surprisingly has very little overhead so it can be run in the background during normal system use. It basically does the same thing that the first Samsung tool did - re-writes the data on the drive resulting in like-new performance. 450 MB/s reads across the whole drive.
Is this a bit of a hassle? Yeah, but it's better than enduring slow boots and load times in the long run. Does it accelerate wear on the drive? Yeah, but SSD's have such longevity that even it loses a year or two off of useful life I'll still be ready to upgrade well before it dies.
There are two (temporary) fixes I know of. The one I mentioned above is what is referenced in the article, it was the first fix released by Samsung, that ended up only temporarily restoring performance, "Samsung SSD 840 EVO Performance Restoration Software" -
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/us/html/support/downloads.html
The second temporary fix would be essentially re-writing every bit of data on the drive (in-place), which in theory gets the performance back to original for a while. You can do this with a program like Disk Fresh -
http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
Both these are just bandaids, and don't fix the underlying issue that is causing the slowdowns. So, after running either you can expect performance to degrade again just as it has in the past.
Your PC stats are alright, so there isn't any performance-like problem with the game.
Now, first of all, I had the same problem, I used to have CTD's every 5-30 mins completely randomly (sometimes even in a middle of loading), so because neither me or you know the cause for this, I will list all possible fix ways for different kind of problems:
1.Re-install the game
If this works then your game was probably corrupt.
2.Try playing with a new character or deleting some of your older saves if you have a ton of them.
If this works then probably your PC or the game couldn't handle all the saves or something gone corrupt at one point in-game.
3.Defrag your hard drives ( all drives, not only the drive where the game is installed )
If this works then your disks were ffragged like a WW2 grenadier and you should defrag them frequently (bimonthly would be the best choice)
4.Download an error cleaner and remove registry errors
If this works, then your game probably had a problems with registries or some files got junked or got an error and the game was struggling to launch the file. However, I cannot suggest a registry error cleaner because there are different ones, but I personally use Auslogics Boostspeed
Feel free to reply or PM me, I am willing to help you.
Yeah, unfortunately it sounds like your HDD is dead/dying. If you can plug it into another PC and read it, use Puran File Recovery orRoadkil's Unstoppable Copier to get as much off as you can!
This is what I used. Took a while for it to run, couple hours if I recall. From what I understand it rewrites your data on the ssd, although I may be misunderstanding it's function. It works at least. http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
I usually skip defraggler altogether, and just run auslogics disk defrag. It's signifigantly faster than defraggler and does just as good a job, if not better.
Website: http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/
Portable Version: http://downloads.auslogics.com/en/disk-defrag/ausdiskdefragportable.exe
When it won't let you resize more than that it means there are immovable system files located near the end of the drive. I would try Auslogics Defrag and do the Optimize option to see if it can move those files closer to the beginning of the drive. It may or may not be possible though.
One thing that can really help load times for the client is to make sure the client files are contiguous on your hard drive. I use a great little program from Microsoft called Contig, its a command line utility that lets you de-fragment just the client files, I always run this after a new patch. For those who have issues with command line utility's there is a GUI version here.
I also recommend doing a PageDefrag at least once, in addition to your regular defragmenter.
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb897426.aspx
PageDefrag can analyses your system paging files and registry hive files for fragmentation and have them defragmented upon reboot. This is an area that can't be touched while Windows is running and is typically ignored by defragging tools.
De fragle rock
Have you tried quitting Finder and letting it reboot? What about restarting? If neither of those work, perhaps you've got some serious file fragmentation going on. If that's the case, try iDefrag and see if file fragmentation is the issue.
As for deleting stuff, are you securely deleting things from the Trash? That could help. If not, there's always using something like Permanent Eraser to empty the Trash so that you get the space right back instantly. Works like a charm for me. Your Mileage May Vary.
You split your Mac's hard drive into 2 partitions. To the user, it'll look like 2 different hard drives (even though they're on the same physical disk). To switch what OS you boot into, you hold the option-key while booting the machine up and you'll get an option of what disk to boot from (this works with bootable CD's too).
But partitioning a disk without destroying what's on it is ... tricky. If you have a backup of your Mac stuff, the following instructions aren't needed (as you can simply wipe your disk, partition it, then reload your data from a backup disk), but if you must non-destructively partition your disk, read on:
The Bootcamp setup assistant asks you how many gigs you want your Bootcamp partition to be, and if it can find X-gigs of contiguous disk space (meaning, space that's all lined up next to each other on the disk) it will work fine. But if you don't have X-gigs of free space all in one physical part of the disk, you'll have to run a defragmentation utility to cram all the disk's data into one area, THEN partition it.
The defragmentation utility will have to be run from either a bootable CD/DVD, or another mac plugged into your Mac via “firewire target disk mode”. Why must the defragmentation utility be run from a bootable disk? Simply put, you can't defrag the operating system's files (The /System folder) while the OS is running off those files.
I personally do this using iDefrag. It's not terribly expensive, and it includes a bundled app called “Coriolis CDMaker” that burns bootable disks with iDefrag on it for you. Really easy.
Then of course you have to install Windows on Bootcamp. And if you have VMWare Fusion or Parallels you can run Mac OS & Windows simultaneously without rebooting the machine.
Using a defrag utility like powerdefrag ~~or the default defragmentation program on windows (although I'm not sure if the default one allows you to defrag specific folders.)~~
You can use this to get the most out of your PC for gaming. It comes bundled with a load of tools as well but the Pc gaming tool completely removes elements of your PC not used for gaming to boost your FPS. Ive seen personally and average of around 10fps increase in most games when using the gaming PC profile :)
Buy a new SSD.
Run software which regularly refreshes data on your SSD so that nothing is more than a couple months old.
The issue is that after data is written to the flash memory cells in the SSD, the voltage of those cells slowly drops over time. After several months, the voltage has dropped enough that the drive has problems reading the data back, and it goes into long read-error-retry loops until finally after a dozen or more attempts to re-read it gets lucky and reads the data correctly. All those retry loops slows down the performance of the drive drastically.
Refreshing the data by re-writing it resets the voltage to high enough levels that the drive has no problems reading it on the first try.
Since we don't know if this is actually the problem your drive is experiencing, the easiest thing to do is to test if refreshing it restores performance to like when the drive was new. Try running this program to re-write every "sector" on your SSD. http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
If performance improves, then yes you are suffering from the issue. And you can just run DiskFresh again every couple months to prevent the problem from recurring. No need to replace the drive.
If performance does not improve, then you are experiencing a different problem and you can ignore everything I've written. You should probably read through the following link to see if 840 (non-EVO, non-Pro) owners experiencing the problem have come up with other ways to fix it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1519058/the-we-want-our-840-non-evo-ssd-fixed-also
You can use disk fresh. I used it and it did work on getting the SSD back to normal speed. What it basically does is go through the whole SSD and then refresh all the files as if they were used recently. Gets around the bug as it's an old data issue.
Still bad on Samsungs side but I used this diskfresh when I got sick of waiting. You still need to use it every 30 days though as the bug still comes back. Just thought I would suggest this as it is an alternative.
Unfortunately there is no restoration tool for the non-evo 840, even though Samsung know it affects that drive also. The good news is there's some freeware called DiskFresh that you can run every few months that will restore performance.
If you mean Puran, it is here. If you mean the file itself, I don't know for sure. It'd be found in the scan and could be named by its memory position or by the old file name you saved it. You'd basically have to sort by file type and then open up all the deleted word docs until you find it.
FYI: Download free Wise Disk Cleaner. I've been using it for years, and it apparently does this and more. I usually clean up over a GB after a clean install. Just click on the "Slimming System" tab, and check the box "Windows Installer Baseline Cache". You can also remove language packs like the Chinese and Japanese as well as sample media files.
Yeah you can save the search as a virtual folder or whatever too... then just open it and delete the contents.
Also I think both of these have custom options for deleting Mac shit.
Auslogics Disk Defrag is the best product out there... The free version will do what you need but the pro is worth every penny. I've never used anything as efficient and fast. Even has a feature to move certain data to specific parts of the disk
Have not seen that issue before but could be a local drive issue? Try running a defrag and see if things run any better. If you are already using a solid state drive I would not bother but if you are using a mechanical drive it will make a difference. I use http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/ on some of my servers. Good luck man.
So you dont appear to be low on RAM (at least when the system info was run) and you have plenty of drive space. I echo what pbrianq said and run checkdsk to see if the drive has errors. Lastly, if you arent using a SSD (solid state) drive, download http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/ and run the defrag + optimization. If that doesnt fix it, then I'm wondering if you have some left over bits from prior AV products.
Download Auslogics Defragmenter. It will show you the list of fragmented files which will allow you defrag specific files.
I am not aware of any utilities which can fragment at start or beginning of the disk (and honestly even do not think it to be possible). You can however, move all files to the beginning of the disk. Ultimate defragmenter works the best for the same (just my opinion).
HDD or SSD? If HDD, try to download something like Auslogic Disk Defrag and do an analysis. If you're over 10% fragmented I'd run a defrag. No need to do this on SSD. Also, try downloading CCleaner and running that. It should never take more than 10 seconds for CCleaner to analyze/clean. If it does, you're system is getting bogged down with junk.
Definitely try several passes at defragging first with a decent tool like Auslogic. If it is simply fragmentation that you are trying to recover from, that should do it. Unless the fragmentation has hit some files that are now corrupt, then you might require reinstall. Usually you should be good with a few defrag attempts.
Sounds a lot like a virus. Use malwarebytes. Friend once had this and issue was an insanely fragmented HDD so link to a good disk defragger too.
If you wanna get someone from Windows, onto a Ubuntu/Windows dual-boot, then Auslogics Disk Defrag is the way to go.
Windows stores shit all over the drive, so if you got a laptop with only one hard disk partition, run that defrag app (windows own doesnt work, it gets stuck on system files, etc) then run Computer Management and shrink your primary partition, and create a second one for Ubuntu.
Then you can run wubi from windows and it will leave you with a nice easy start-up selection bootloader to choose which one you want.
Worth bearing in mind, you wont even have to log in to play Steam games in a year or so. Even hardcore gaming will be catered to in the FOSS world.
Nows the time to get in training noobies :)
Might need to defrag the drive, iirc windows can't shrink a volume if there is something at the 'end' of the disk.
I think I used Auslogics Disk Defrag when I was trying to partition my drive, dunno if there's better
Auslogic's Disk Defrag. Depending on what you're doing on the machine, defragging daily or weekly can make a huge difference. When you're doing incremental compiles of assemblies all day the PDBs and DLLs themselves tend to get very fragmented, which can add minutes to your build times. Defragging every night fixes that up, and if you schedule it to run every couple days it never takes very long.
Use some canned air and blow out dust that might be lurking in among the vents and slowing things down.
Download a free defrag utility and set up a defrag schedule for times when you won't be using it (e.g. every Wednesday at 3am or something). Especially if you've never defragged or don't know what defrag even means, this will make a big difference.
Scan for and remove any spyware with tools like Microsoft Security Essentials, SpyBot, Malwarebytes, etc.
How much free space do you have on the drive? You need at least 15% free disk space for the built in defrag utility to work -- at least in Windows XP that was the case, may have changed for Windows 7.
You might try the free version of Auslogic Defrag and execute and defrag then an optimize. The optimize option will take longer to run, but is more aggressive in performing the defrag.
You pose an entirely different question in the title than in the post. A system lockup isn't a performance issue it's a serious error.
Right click "Computer" from the start menu and select "Manage". Event Viewer→Windows Logs. Then check "System" and "Application" sections for errors whose recorded times coincide with the system lockups. And/or those that are serious and recurring. This is easiest if you select "Filter Current log" on the right panel and tick "Critical", "Error", and "Warning". Freezes and reboots don't always leave an entry, but when they do it can take the guess work out of this process.
That is a good first step. On to performance, if Compaq provided you with their own install discs with a bunch of bundled software, you're probably starting off in the hole already. If they gave retail windows discs, I'd give serious consideration to starting over. It's a lot easier to keep a system clean than it is to revamp a lagging bloated system. Every time you install a new program, check it's options for "Start with windows" or "start automatically", and check task managers process window (CTRL+Shift+Esc) for new processes. Descriptions are pretty good on windows 7 and it is usually apparent just from the name of the app you installed. Scant few programs actually need to start with windows or always have a process running. If it's not a security app or something like an email/IM notifier that you need to keep running, then consider looking for an alternative that doesn't keep a process 24/7. Using IMGBurn over Nero/Roxio is a great example.
Always a good idea to keep the hard drive defragged too. And if you are not faint of heart look up overclocking (though few OEM prefabs are well capable), Intels almost always have decent headroom without raising the voltage any, just mind your stability testing.
Set it up to run when your system is idle, and you won't even know it's there.
You computer just stays super fast seemingly by magic.
It even has an option to re-arrange something in your hard drive, to make the programs you use the most launch faster.
My computer still hasn't gotten that old and slow feel to it after two years use, and I attribute that to this program.
Also, it's free.
Get PowerDefrag and watch the defragging scroll by in a command-line window instead. Almost as hypnotic, except with less of a feel for how much is left to defrag.
(But with a major bonus: you can interrupt it anytime, and still benefit from the files that did get defragged, and when you start it up again, it won't have to defrag files it has already defragged.)
PageDefrag, first thing. Set the swap file to 2x the amount of RAM (fixed), then run pagedefrag to make that contiguous. Cuts down on thrashing, improves performance.
What I would do...
- Run AdAware and/or Spybot to remove any crap malware that's slowing you down
- Remove any old device drivers or auto-starts that you don't need any more
- Install as much RAM as the unit can take, if that's an option
- Set your pagefile size to twice the size of your installed RAM, both Min and Max. That way you have a statically sized pagefile
- Download, install and run PageDfrg from Microsoft to defrag the pagefile and registry hives. This can reduce thrashing of the hard drive when you're paging, which really slows the system down
- Optimize your hard drive
Or if you're in the mood for it, do a whole re-format and re-install of the OS. Immediately do #4 and #5 above if you do this.
I've also used iDefrag to fix this issue. It doesn't look like it's been updated in a while, but if it works (I think it still should), it will allow you to partition the drive without having to wipe it.
You can use iDefrag to see how fragmented your drive is. There is a free demo that only shows the fragmentation, so you can see if that's the problem. OSX also defragments by itself, but only files smaller than 20MB and only if there is enough unfragmented free space. I bought iDefrag a few years ago and I'm pretty happy with it.
Screen going blue, then nothing, sounds like LoginWindow crashing. But since it returns you to where you were, I don't know what's up. (That would only happen with Lion)
Mac users used to be as compulsive about maintenance as Windows users or maybe more. But we've gotten slow and complacent lately since Journaling HFS+ appeared in Panther.
Anything worth doing you have to do while booted from a different disc.
If you can boot from a different disk, use Disk Utility to "Repair Disk" on your boot drive.
If things have really gone haywire DiskWarrior is still the gold standard.
You shouldn't have to do anything to maintain a disk, but DiskWarrior does rebuild the drive directory and if you have a degfragmenting itch to scratch, iDefrag is the way to go. However OS X automatically defragments frequently used files so iDefrag is only if you're constantly writing to a nearly-full disk.
I wouldn't worry about doing an MD5.
Use this DiskFresh utility to do a Read Only test on the disk -- uncheck the write option. DO NOT rewrite the sectors on an SSD. A straight read on an SSD will be very fast and the drive have guarantee to have properly read it so you don't have to guess if it's done.
I realise that fixing shortcuts can be tedious, but that's probably what you're gonna have to do.
You can also download a software called FixShortcuts that can automatically (or manually) fix your shortcuts for you.
The only free file recovery program I've ever came across that's easy to use is the one included in Puran Utilities.
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Puran Utilities:
http://www.puransoftware.com/Puran-Utilities.html
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Yes it looks shady and weird but I use it a lot, it's legitimate software that works really well with no bullshit, the defrag in there is great and the file recovery actually works.
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Install that, open it, click the file recovery, select your language, go down to the physical drive that you want to recover files from and select it, then underneath where the checkboxes are, select "deep scan", "full scan", "find lost files", and "scan custom list". Then at the left of the checkboxes click scan.
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Once that finishes select tree view at the bottom, and there should be a separate drop-down for each file type. Be aware they may not have the original names and will be a mess of numbers and/or letters, the best bet you have is to select all of the files of that type and recover them, just tick all the files and click recover at the top, then select a place to put the recovered files. Then after that process finishes you can go through the files one by one to find the ones you're looking for.
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I hope this helps. I've been in the same situation before and this software is the ONLY thing that has worked perfectly and for free.
try Recuva, it's free and works ok. If it doesn't find anything, try Puran File Recovery, also free but a bit old
theres a couple of good file recovery utilties within the puran utilities suite http://www.puransoftware.com/Puran-Utilities.html
which imho are better than recuva. but bear in mind if your downloading and installing to the disk which the files were deleted from then theres a chance the file you want to recover will get overwritten
Gonna be real hard to test systems while they are in use.
Since you are writing so much random data, you might be able to get away with just reading the disk. On NTFS and linux weak blocks get marked so they'll never be used again.
Here is a simple utility which does this: http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html (read only checkbox)
And if you get any really bad reads, the next camera write will force those blocks to reallocate. So watch the reallocation count. When it starts climbing - ditch the disk.
You're kinda rebuilding your aircraft in flight......
Naw, it's the simpler manufacturer test. That disk fill is for serious problems and I sure don't know if it's worth the effort. It's just a tool in case you need it.
That /P switch for Microsoft format is well documented. It simply tests all blogs with different patterns. Again, may be overkill. Useful only to super purists or someone with a serious application. A single pass full format is enough.
Here is a good simple tool for reading blocks. I like it because it doesn't dazzle you with a lot of unnecessary information or some controls which will wipe your data. I recommend you use only the read function. Don't let it "refresh" your drive or eventually you'll likely create a problem. Your PC just isn't perfect - what if it scrambles and writes the wrong information over your good data?
http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
Can't emphasize enough that disks are really good now. If you catch the rare outliers (like manufacturer mistakes) you really don't face much trouble. The single issue to be aware of is sudden loss of all your data. Just dies. there may be no going back if that happens - unless you have backups.
People do worry about the wrong things. Good luck.
Unless you are willing to go through a whole lotta hassle for little gain to make those yellow lights go away just use this: http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html. It won't make the lights go away - but it will fix any problems you have, and does not inhibit reallocation if your drive should decide that's best.
Don't let it rewrite every block - read only is enough. If you are using Linux, the bad blocks test using the read mode is best. Have it as a menu item on several servers here...and it always pulls out the bad blocks.
Doesn't matter how you read those blocks. Lots of software will read from the OS. Even performing an image backup will do it if it's performed from the host OS. Your are using the OS's own defect management.
Disk drives today are like the star trek machines of 50 yrs ago. Designed to live forever without human intervention (sarc). More seriously, they often come close to this ideal IF people will leave them alone.
Can already see some marketing guy at WD approaching his buddy in engineering...begging for more "blinky lights" so that more customers will throw their drives away early :) Can you imagine how much fun it is to sell things which rarely break? Talk about a career and bonus limiting move ........
Manufacturer's utility Extended test, followed by zero fill, followed by full format.
Likely overkill even if it is good practice. I've never found a bad new drive. Guess it's possible the whole practice is urban legend. Full format might be all you need.
More important perhaps? Just read every block from your OS every six months or so (can't use that faster extended test read here). Your OS will hot swap any weak blocks and mark them as used - so you'll never write to them again.
That Linux bad blocks test is one of the best for this if you're a linux user. Chkdsk works for windows users, but unfortunately can return bad blocks to the pool. This one can be set to just read: http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html (there are many others)
We own Spinrite which can flip blocks multiple times without changing data. I don't recommend it for working disks. Rewriting is likely bad policy.
Just read the disk and be happy.
> I suppose the only safe place to really store long term data is to burn it to disk or magnet tapes.
Maybe I've just been unlucky but I tried to restore data from some 10 year old DVD-R and they all had read errors. Some were even visibly degraded, the colour on the underside had gone blotchy.
They were stored in my lost so maybe they got too hot or cold. Dunno. The old HDs still worked though.
IMHO duplicate your backups across as many types of media as you can afford, and if you have the time run DiskFresh occasionally to rewrite the data on the HDs.
I've got an 840 Evo on an old first gen i3 rig. Running a SATA 2.0 connection I believe. This model use to have issues with speed slowing to a crawl when it had fully written all blocks at least once. This was fixed by a firmware update. Make sure your firmware is up to date and run something like DiskFresh to rewrite the SSD data and hopefully it will sort your problem. Mine was getting similar speed to yours and is now benching 250-300 on both read and write.
What kind of card is it? Have you tried this card with other devices before?
Is it the ODRVM 4k? or 1080p? I'm pretty sure the 1080p version will only take up to 32gb (might be same on 4k). If it's a larger card it may not successfully record footage.
My suggestion is to download a freeware software called Puran File Recovery and use it to scan the memory card. Enable all options for deep scan, deleted files, etc. If it is a memory card issue you may not get much, but I've been able to recover some video on a good card from weeks earlier before (lucky).
Forget about the shitty samsung tool. I have a 840 (non-evo), and run diskfresh every 3 weeks and that keeps speeds reasonable: http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
And fuck Samsung. Seriously, fuck those guys.
It will start a new scan. But stopping and checking it now to see if it's working will result in greater time saving if you do it now, rather than after having spent a considerable time on it.
Thisis the link for Puran File Recovery download
For a temporary (and far from ideal) fix, you can use "Disk Fresh" to rewrite all the data on the disk in-place. This seems to restore full speed from benchmarks I've run. It takes a long time to complete, but better than nothing.
Have you tried running DiskFresh on your 840? http://www.puransoftware.com/DiskFresh.html
It seemed to restore my 840 evo back to fullspeed. But you will need to re-run it every couple of months, and it will increase the overall wear. I really don't give a shit if it lowers the lifespan on my 840 evo, because I plan on upgrading to something else soon anyways, and maybe using the 840 evo in a media center or my old laptop.
I should have known something was up after watching the commercial for the 840 evo, all the actors act like zombies: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y3XuhMJQ28
I'd recommend Puran utilities as an alternative, it has tons of great features including a registry cleaner, the best defrag tool, and one of the top free undelete programs available. The only other one I'd recommend is Recuva.
For SSDs, just use the standard Windows disk optimization feature. Defragmenting is useless on SSDs, but TRIMming, which is what the Windows disk optimization does, speeds SSDs up and reduces wear on them.
For hard drives, Defraggler doesn't do anything noticeably better than Windows standard defragmenter. The only program I've seen that does do noticeably better is the old, freeware program MyDefrag. It speeds things up somewhat, so you'll see a bit faster boot times and so on.
If you use it, you'll need to turn off the weekly standard Windows disk optimization because it will undo the work of MyDefrag.
that is a low performance drive and i'm guessing you haven't reinstalled windows 7 for a while?
try downloading ultradefrag: https://ultradefrag.net/en/index.shtml your files might be all over the place on the drive causing the slow read/write times.
after that try running this and post the results: https://hdd.userbenchmark.com/Software
Download and install ultradefrag, it's a visual representation of the disk defragmentation process, I miss the old defrag from windows 3.X and 98, this comes close to it.
Just sit there and watch the data get moved around (unless you have an SSD then it's useless).
In that case, you may wish to defrag if your spindle disk is rather fragmented. The increase in file sizes brought on by updates often cause fragmentation, which will mean more seeking for the HDD & thus slower speeds. I personally recommend the AusLogics defrag application over the windows defrag. Since windows 7(?) windows defrag should be scheduled to run once a week, but may never run if you power off when not using the machine.
Alternatively (or as well as!), you could invest in an SSD (prices are very reasonable these days). Having a 120gb drive for your system & a small steam library would speed things up for you an awful lot :)
Copy the 1.07GB movie from one folder to another folder, within the same hard drive(not to an external hard drive).Is it 1min and 10sec?
Backup your data just in case. 4 yo hard drive has a very high risk of failure.
Open My Computer> rigt click on C drive> Properties>Tools tab>click Check Now>check the box that says "Scan for and attempt recovery">click Start and click OK if it shows a popup.Restart your computer and let it check for errors.It might take an hour.It will restart by itself and automatically show you the results.Read and see if it found any errors.It should automatically repair the errors.
You can also try to Defrag and Optimize the hard drive
http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/
And alternative method is "Repair Install" of the operating system.This will keep your programs and files but it will restore the system files so if you modified system files they might be restored to default.You'll need to insert Windows operating system disk while the operating system is running, go to My Computer, right click on the oprical drive and click "Run".Then choose the "Repair" option (not the install option).
Also what could be causing your slowness is that when copying the files over it basically scattered them all over the hard drive creating a lot of fragmentation. A reinstall would fix it and probably install the OS files to the optimal parts of the hard drive (closer to the center of the disk) or you could try using a disk defragger
CCleaner is robust enough that it's really all you need for regular maintenance and cleaning of a machine.
For an uninstaller, I'd recommend Revo. It will fully remove and clean leftover files of programs.
If the machine has an HDD not an SSD, I'd recommend using Auslogics Disk Defrag to defrag and optimize the disk.
Custom sound files will become "completely fucked" if the file is fragmented (meaning the file is physically split up into different parts on the sd card / hard disk / etc.).
Defragment your SD card and everything should work fine.
This is the program I use: http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag-pro/
Windows' defragmenter is terrible. Use Defraggler or Auslogics. They have a pretty simple scheduler you can use. Once a week might be a bit much if you're a light user, so I would recommend bi-weekly.
Defrag with the Windows utility or the Auslogics one. Before that, though, run CCleaner for temporary files and over your registry.
Add Win+Pause to quickly open System Properties, Win+E opens up a Windows Explorer window on Libraries. I find I use these a lot.
You didn't have a defrag tool, so allow me: Auslogics Disk Defrag. It is fast, and has an optimization option.
EDIT: Forgot to add, your post is brilliant.
an awesome list indeed.
my changes would be:
- Gizmo Drive (Alternative for Daemon tools)
- Auslogics disk defrag (like Smart Defrag 2, automatic "defrag disk in idle time" utility)
I didn't actually say anything to be correct about, but yes, this is where I was going.
Move everything off of the drive onto the external that isn't needed to keep the computer running.
My defrag program of choice is http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/ this one. The reason I like it is honestly because it's pretty. And I think I heard about it in a good review from Maximum PC.
Also, is the computer using FAT32 or NTFS? NTFS is significantly less bothered by fragmentation than FAT32 is.