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My mother in law, running XP, had the same problem. Turned out to be a root-kit virus. I went to Kaspersky and downloaded a free rootkit detector and remover sure enough it pulled it out and Chrome worked again. Interestingly the anti-virus never picked up on it. But that is common from what I learned.
Maybe check out this thread. http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/Chrome/thread?tid=3618f9c1ca7ed6dc&hl=en
http://majorgeeks.com/Kaspersky_TDSSKiller_d6895.html a quick safe download link.
Install Malware Bytes (free download) and be sure to update to the latest definitions file. Boot into safe mode (no networking) and run a full scan of your entire harddrive. This virus is a bitch.
In the future, you may want to check out /r/techsupport - there are a lot of talented and knowledgeable people there.
I'm not saying that this is okay, it isn't, but to be fair, you can set every one of those options for any game through the nVidia and/or ATI control panel.
In fact, you have more options available through programs like nVidia Inspector than I've ever seen presented in any game's options menu. I can't remember the last game I played without first customising its nVidia profile.
This isn't even getting into using external injectors like ENB or SMAA to further modify graphics options.
It would be convenient if the options existed in-game, but I've never played a game in my entire life that has had all the options I need to customise available in its options menu, port or no port.
I'm sure similar programs would exist for ATI but I have no personal experience with them.
Before anybody pulls the reaction I usually get, "YOU'RE A GEEK, NOT EVERYBODY KNOWS ABOUT THIS", yeah I know hence why I'm mentioning it. If anybody needs any help setting up a decent nVidia profile for their games, give us a shout and I'll see if I can help.
Sounds like either you didn't fully get W7AV2012 off, or you have another infection...start over again. Here are the tools you need:
All tools should be run from Safe Mode
TDSSKiller first, if it finds anything you must reboot
ComboFix next, this may or may not reboot on its own
Malwarebytes last, update it before you run it
I realize that you've probably run ComboFix and Malwarebytes already, but try running them in that order.
I think most people view computers now-a-days like cars. You just want them to work. Where in earlier times, a mechanic could alter most shit, now they can't even get access to the computer chip that controls most of the settings. (just ask farmers who are trying to fix their big tractors).
I know fuck-all about Win 10 and never hope to learn. However, almost all that stuff is online somewhere. It takes patience and shifting through a lot of bullshit websites to find the stuff you are looking for, but it is out there. Then of course, there is the tinkering.
Before you fuck with anything make a system restore point, get a freeware driver program and make a backup of the current drivers before doing anything. Check out either Gizmo's Freeware or Major Geeks as they both have excellent selections of freeware that will do the job for you. Also with regard to drivers, you have to check out the sites carefully, as so many are just setup to lure you to pay to join their site. You might try: driverscape.com as they freely give you the driver you want for the specific model instead of tons of extra crap.
Best of luck.
You've got a secondary computer. Good.
Using the other computer, download two things: Malwarebytes
And super-anti-spyware: http://www.superantispyware.com/
Copy them to a flash drive (remove anything from the flash drive that you want to keep. We're going to format it when you're done).
Reboot your infected computer into safe mode. To do this, power it off, then while it's coming back on, press and hold f8 (I actually just hammer it a bunch of times while the system is powering on).
You'll get prompted to boot into safe mode. Do that. Safe mode with networking.
Now, first install malwarebytes (and update it), then run it. It's going to take a long time.
Then do the same with super anti spyware.
Now boot back into windows and do that same thing again, from the optimized account (run them, not install them)
Once this is all done, format the USB stick. Right cilck on it on windows, and click format.
It depends on how curious on how curious your admins are. Using VLC as suggested, and running a cleanup program like Ccleaner will remove most traces.
If they are very snoopy, and have the right tools, there will be things buried in Windows that will give away the game.
For piece of mind I think the Live CD option is best.
Rogue Killer Finds many roots and is free.
http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/files/file/413-roguekiller/
ATF Cleaner (it's not some registry crap, it cleans all temp files and stuff all at one time)
http://majorgeeks.com/ATF_Cleaner_d4949.html
Unhide (if you lost icons, you didn't mention it but is typical)
That sounds a little dogey, maybe you got a pirated version of windows without him telling you.
Anyway, assuming its legit, download Produkey.
Run it, go: file -> select source -> Load the product keys from external Software Registry hive. Select "Windows.old\System32\Config\software"
Hopefully it should now list your windows 7 product key.
Graybird is a Trojan horse that hides it's presence on the compromised computer and downloads files from remote Web sites.
I've seen posts about this marked as "solved"on other sites that appear to say to just throw everything at it and apparently one of those seem to work. I'd recommend first removing Norton and installing Microsoft Security Essentials.
Then try these:
Lets try this please:
Head to start, select run, type services.msc. Make sure DHCP and DNS Client are started, and any other services that sound important.
If DHCP wont start (as I suspect) please head to start -> Run -> type Regedit
Expand HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\, and look for a key called DHCP. When you select this, look for an entry on the right called DependonService and remove the line containing NetBT if it is listed, and then try starting the DHCP again.
It may also be worth running Winsock XP fix if this doesnt resolve the issue: http://majorgeeks.com/download4372.html
Or, manually go to start -> run -> cmd type "netsh winsock reset" and press enter then type "netsh int ip reset reset.log" and press enter.
let me know how it turns out.
Sounds like it might have been a windows installer install and they wont let you uninstall without the uninstaller. Though it should let you reinstall. Anyways download the windows installer cleanup utility http://majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=4459 and then cleanup TFU2 installs. Then you should be able to reinstall it.
On my laptop, those keys are partially driver dependent, so disabling the driver renders them useless (effectively turning them back into normal function keys).
You could always use a USB keyboard temporarily... or, if your laptop has a numpad, you could use a program like KeyTweak to bind the function keys to that.
Explorer or antivirus may be using the file, or the installer is running in the background. You can use a piece of software called Unlocker (http://majorgeeks.com/files/details/unlocker.html). It will kill the process using the files if there is one, and let you delete them. If it fails, it will show an option to delete (or rename or move) the files on reboot. Select delete, restart, and the files should be gone! :)
Get Cpu-z and Hwmonitor from cpuid
Use CPU-Z to monitor your cpu's clock speed. If you see it decreasing, thermal throttling is in effect.
Run Hwmonitor while you are playing a game. after the game is done, check the highest temp and in the middle of the game check your clock speed (And temps too)
You can use EVGA pecision to monitor yourgpu's clock speed, which will work even if the card isn't evga.
Report back to me on what you find out, and I'll help you with more suggestions.
On regular drives you want to leave at least 15% on top of your page file left over for defrags. If you do not have that space it will not run. Also, I have ran tests against read+write speeds of my Plextor M3 128GB SSD w/ 50% usage and 75% usage. Stats when it was over 50% were shockingly slower. I also have the Mushkin Direct Atlas Deluxe 120GB mSata and two OCZ Agility 2 60GB in RAID 0 which showed similar results. Key thing here is to leave at least 15% of the drive free on a spindle though... To easily break down the idea: You have the hard drive with spinning platters (think of these as records). You have a needle reading data off of this drive. It starts filling up on the inner ring and makes it's way to the outside of the disk. Once you hit the outer rings the needle needs to move further to find the data requested. It's hard on the mechanics and slows down seek performance because data is scattered all over.
Edit: So in short, you are right in thinking it's because the data is further out. I've also had regular HDs fail on me because I maxed them out.
Double Edit: If you want to run your own HD speed tests, grab CliBench (http://majorgeeks.com/CliBench_mk_III_smp_d121.html).
You can, but crystaldiskmark tests for 512k block sizes, 4k, and sequential. For HDD's the numbers will generally be low. With ATTO you can use that with the SSD as well as HDD, so you can use for both, it just is more sensible to use crystaldiskmark for SSD's, but try out a few and see what you come up with.
Sorry for the last ATTO link, you have to put in a lot of info to get the download, check out this instead. http://majorgeeks.com/ATTO_Disk_Benchmark_d6359.html
You can get a free trial of hdtune, and free in other ways.
The infection attatched to services.exe is almost certainly not the cause. These types of hard-to-kill infections are usually hidden elsewhere and reinfect system files on boot up. So if your scanner removes it, the next time it starts up it's infected again. Download and run TDSSKiller. Before you start the scan, select Change parameters and enable checking for the TDSS file system. After that, download and run MBRCheck. The combination of those two should find any rootkits hiding in your boot record or on custom mini-partitions. After removing the source you can then start removing the symptoms (like the one attached to services.exe).
Use this nifty tool. Should get you up and running after 10 seconds and a restart
http://majorgeeks.com/WinSock_XP_Fix_d4372.html
And if you need help looking for free software alternatives
/r/freewareindex
I would give this a go before anything else: McAfee removal tool... from McAfee: http://service.mcafee.com/FAQDocument.aspx?id=TS101331
(alt link ) http://majorgeeks.com/McAfee_Consumer_Product_Removal_Tool_d5420.html
Anything like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Diablotek-EN3525D-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/tags-on-product/B00346I5LI
As for how to catalog drives and search them when they're not plugged in:
Looks to me something has hijacked your adobe update process to download garbage from a spoofed adobe website. Download, Install, update and Run Malwarebytes.
This link will start the actual download.
http://majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=5756&file=15&evp=693ee0b20204960edfd909666f809b26
Try forcing Triple buffering in Direct3D apps by using this program.
http://www.guru3d.com/category/rivatuner/
It's a program for nVidia cards, but that doesn't matter. What you are interested in is the small utility it installs with it called D3DOverrider. Start that up and just leave it at the defaults. Make sure it's running your system tray and then force VSync on in CCC.
Let me know if that helps or hurts at all.
Forcing triple buffering in CCC won't help in D3D apps because it only works for OpenGL apps through CCC.
Edit: That link doesn't actually have a download button that I can find. Get it from Majorgeeks.
Yeah its failing. Its not extremely urgent but you need to look at getting all the data off. The orange bars mean a section of the HDD took longer than 600ms to read and that's what is making the computer slow.
You managed to find a download for Victoria then?
What anti-virus software do you have other than Spybot? Spybot is a useful tool, but not by itself. If you have a legitimate copy of Windows, then download and install Microsoft Security Essentials (MSE). Avast! and Malwarebytes are also popular tools. Restart your computer in safe mode and do full scans with Spybot AND your anti-virus software of choice. After it's finished and you remove the viruses, restart your computer in safe mode and scan that shit again. Hopefully it comes up clear. If this doesn't work there are other options, but try this first and give an update. Cheers.
what size power source? with the gtx295 you need at least a 550w power source.
when is the last time you've done a virus scan? Download malwarebytes and let it do a full scan:
http://majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=5756
on top of that, have you done all the stability tests that overclocking requires?
also, check for any bad drivers you might have installed. or maybe there are left over drivers that are interfering with proper drivers.
If your new-install FFox came up with the same annoying freezes, check if you had one too many bookmarks (i.e. bookmarks scrolling for more than 5secs). If you do, archive them via Febe (FF addons).
If freezing still occur, i suggest running a 3rd-party rootkit scan (temp shutdown your current AV prior to such a scan). Here is 1 from Kaspersky ~ http://majorgeeks.com/Kaspersky_TDSSKiller_d6895.html
I've fixed this before, you need to use the Windows Installer Cleanup utility from Microsoft. It's no longer supported by Microsoft due to incompatability with Office 2007.
Basically you have a bad install / uninstall of itunes and this utility will clean that up for you. Be careful only to use it on itunes.
Try running Winsockfix XP. It does sound pretty suspicious - try a quick malwarebytes scan in safe mode, should only take about 15 minutes and can unearth a root cause.
We've had this problem at my workplace. We came up with two solutions.
Uninstall QuickTime via the original installer. New versions of QuickTime often won't uninstall the old version's files cleanly. Obviously, this is only rarely an option.
Uninstall every instance (if multiple are listed) of QuickTime/iTunes from "Programs and Features", and then go to Program Files as well as Program Files x86 on your hard drive and manually remove every QuickTime and iTunes folder (your iTunes library should be under your user's "music" folder, so it's safe to remove iTunes folders from "program files" unless you changed you library's default location to put your music in program files.) either application may also be listed under an "Apple" folder, so don't forget to check there.
Now, run Microsoft's Windows installer cleanup utility and remove every instance of QuickTime and iTunes. Finally, install the latest version of iTunes (make sure to get the x64 version if you are running 64bit Windows 7!) and pray that all went well.
First of all, LOL! Gotta love ATI drivers.
Secondly, do a clean removal of the ATi drivers and reinstall them. Boot into safe mode and uninstall them from the Control Panel. Then go download Driver Sweeper and run it to remove all traces of the ATi drivers.
After that, reinstall the device drivers. If you wish, try an older version of the drivers (perhaps the ones included on the CD with your graphics card).
KeyTweak is older than grunt but still works with Windows 7.
Though, I have to wonder why Left CTRL? My capslock is bound to Right Shift, so it still loosely performs its intended purpose.
Grab a tool like this: http://majorgeeks.com/EVEREST_Free_Edition_d4181.html
And get the rest of your computer's specs. There is no use trying to find out what GPU you need if your mobo is 6 years old and can't support modern cards because you don't have the right slots.
If you don't want to reinstall Windows fresh (definitely your best option), replace Norton 360 with the free software Microsoft Security Essentials, and run Malwarebytes Anti-Malware and PC Decrapifier... Malwarebytes will find stuff that shouldn't be there, and PC Decrapifier helps remove extra programs/bloatware that came with the PC.
Also, you can probably cut down on how much stuff starts up when your computer does. Check all your icons down in the system tray by the clock... ones you see that you don't really need, right-click and go to the preferences, and disable the option to start when Windows does. Once you do that, check your Startup folder (Start Menu > All Programs Startup) and MSConfig file (Start Menu > Run > type "msconfig") and get rid of extra stuff from there too. If you're unsure about deleting/unchecking anything, just Google it or ask here (that also goes for uninstalling stuff you're unsure of with PC Decrapifier - just Google it)
One other thing is that you should disable extra stuff in iTunes that you don't use, such as Ping, Genius, Home Sharing, and looking for remote speakers and iPhones... I can go into more detail if you need help on a specific item.
http://majorgeeks.com/content/page/will_windows_10_receive_windows_updates_if_its_not_activated.html
I'm not sure what you mean by "cracked", but Windows 10 updates work even if you haven't activated windows.
Yeah, it's pretty great, but it's got a lot of info in there too that can be pretty overwhelming. There are people that can dissect a minidump and tell you what went wrong, and that just amazes me. I mostly just use the tool to find out how often the BSOD's happen, if the codes are the same, etc.
Unfortunately it's sort of a trial and error type thing. I can certainly see why you did what you did, though. The process is just something you learn by doing over time, rather than something you can read a book or an article and know how to do. And even then, sometimes you're clueless if you haven't seen that exact problem before.
I'm honestly not sure. You could check the SMART health stats of your HDD/SSD (with smartmontools and GSmartControl if you want a GUI, or the free version of HDTune), it's possible that your computer is writing to the pagefile, which is getting corrupted by the disk, and BSODing when it reloads it, but it's unlikely.
I would check out LTT Forums, and make a post there in their troubleshooting section. I linked to the BSOD posting instructions. They should be able to get you sorted.
Good luck!
Just download the W10Privacy app and it’ll do all the work for you in a couple clicks:
http://majorgeeks.com/files/details/w10privacy.html
It requires less effort than it took to write this comment, honestly.
I suppose for starters, I'd recommend Mod Organizer 2, it's hands down the best mod manager out there; NMM is outdated and Vortex is aight, but lacks the features of MO2. Have you installed the various Visual C++ packages? If not, I'd recommend MajorGeek's All-in-one (http://majorgeeks.com/files/details/visual_c_runtime_installer.html) to cover all the bases. MO2 requires it according to their Nexus page, and it might help with other managers.
Found this last week, this will definitely save yourself some pain. http://www.silentinstall.org/
Lets you package multiple installers into one that you can install via on-click, no prompts.
This will save you a lot of time as well: http://majorgeeks.com/files/details/visual_c_runtime_installer.html
We've been installing GWX Control Panel everywhere. Unlike manually editing the registry key, it appears to survive subsequent automatic updates when Microsoft decides for you that, no, really, you want Windows 10. It includes a monitor mode that keeps Windows 10 from reappearing until you're ready to deal with it. It's free.
I believe the HDDScan utility can do what you want (on a per-drive basis). The site shows the feature in question; you want to use the "Spindle Start/Stop" feature -- do not tinker with the APM or Power Management settings (those are different).
Also be aware that Windows behind the scenes may initiate I/O to the drives in question at any moment and they may spin up. The OS has a notoriously bad history of doing things like this, so this may or may not work reliably for what you're trying to accomplish.
http://majorgeeks.com/HDDScan_for_Windows_d6321.html http://hddscan.com/
You need to uncheck hide system protected files to see the installer folder.
In the installer folder you will find installers for all the applications installed on your computer as well as all the patches, service packs, windows updates, you name it.
The utility can be found here: http://majorgeeks.com/Windows_Installer_CleanUp_Utility_d4459.html
I would recommend backing up the entire drive (make an image) before you mess with the installer folder, you can really mess stuff up.
Run tempfilecleaner, you will be surprised how much room it clears up.
Also, how big is your hard drive, and what does windirstat say is taking up the most room?
Use this nifty tool. Should get you up and running after 10 seconds and a restart
http://majorgeeks.com/WinSock_XP_Fix_d4372.html
And if you need help looking for free software go to
/r/freewareindex
Use this nifty tool. Should get you up and running after 10 seconds and a restart
http://majorgeeks.com/WinSock_XP_Fix_d4372.html
And if you need help looking for free software go to
/r/freewareindex
Use this nifty tool. Should get you up and running after 10 seconds and a restart
http://majorgeeks.com/WinSock_XP_Fix_d4372.html
And if you need help looking for free software alternatives
/r/freewareindex
Perhaps the Graphics card is overheating? Try running FurMark and see the max temps. If it gets too hot or freezes during the benchmark, then the graphics card would need a RMA or reapplication of thermal paste on the GPU.
I've seen similar symptoms a few months back with a virus that infected the TCP/IP stack. The customer could not reload his software, so a reinstall was out of the question. It took me about two weeks but I finally got it all cleaned out after manually reinstalling all TCP/IP components.
Hopefully you won't have to go that far with this one, though. Have you tried the following?
- MBRCheck - Checks if an infection has modified the boot sector (e.g. most rootkits)
- TDSSKiller - Checks to see if an infection has created it's own hidden partition to hide files away on
- ComboFix - A powerful removal tool that removes some of the nasty ones that other scanners can't. Be careful with this one as it can, theoretically, delete important system files and registry entries. I've never had this happen, yet, though.
http://majorgeeks.com/Video_Memory_Stress_Test__d5896.html
Do that after you get the redness.
But have http://www.portablefreeware.com/download.php?dd=159 siw running on the sensors page and take note of the temps.
This sounds more like a problem with the hard drive--some bad sectors that are breaking the operations you're attempting.
The /r/techsupport wiki recommends Glary Utilities, which includes a disk health utility that can check for bad sectors or other problems.
You wiped and reloaded Windows, and then just install 12.1 and it still says 11.5? Yeah, I don't think so.
Anyway.
Uninstall everything Catalyst. Grab a driver cleaner. http://majorgeeks.com/Driver_Sweeper_d6171.html
Then install 12.3 as it's out and later than 12.1.
Make sure your SSD firmware is up to date. Some SSD drives can stutter.
Stress test your GPU using Furmark. If the lock-ups and crashes become more common while running the stress test it would indicate that your GPU is at fault.
Analyze what's actually running under the process using something like Process Explorer. It's possible a rogue process is working underneath, or the process could be suffering a buffer overflow due to hijacking. If anything looks suspicious, consider running some scans, specifically TDSSKiller and MBAM. Regardless, look into reinstalling your drivers as something is clearly corrupt.
No commercial uninstaller will remove all of McAfee. I'm serious - it's worse than the viruses it's supposed to protect you from! Get the McAfee removal tool.
Download Speedfan and run the SMART test which is on one of the tabs. It'll run a report on your drive (select from drop down), click "Perform Indepth... " button and it'll give you an online report. Check the bit after the graphs for the conclusion ie mine says:
"All of the attributes of your hard disk have normal values. This is good. The overall fitness for this drive is 97%. The overall performance for this drive is 97%."
Did you change any of the ini variables?
Off the top of my head, if this is isolated to Skyrim, I would put money on drivers. A 6870 should be doing a-ok at those settings. Doing a CLEAN uninstall and then reinstall of your drivers would be my recommendation.
If you have no clue how to do a clean uninstall/reinstall:
- Download Driver Sweeper and install it
- Uninstall your current GPU Drivers
- Boot into Safe Mode and run Driver Sweeper
- Reboot into Safe Mode to finish the cleaning process (you will get a prompt telling you this)
- Boot into Normal Mode and reinstall your desired drivers.
Lastly, it could just be the game. The Creation Engine is a licensed build of the Gamebryo Engine. Gamebryo is a piece of shit. Name one game where it ran perfectly? Not Civ 4. Not Bully. Not Oblivion or Fallout. Not on either console or the PC. It is garbage.
Windows?
1) Download and install Microsoft Security Essentials Update and scan regularly.
2) Set up an "admin" user that is password protected. Then set up a separate non-admin user to use for everyday browsing and working. Using the non-admin user will help slow or stop software that needs to install.
You can also try going to MajorGeeks.com
okay not a dns issue, have any means of getting files to the problem computer? flash drive external HDD? if so download MBAM might as well check for anything screwy while we are at it.
if not, go through IE and when it times out click on diagnose connection see if that helps any. support like this is hard be patient and i'm confident we will get to the bottom of this!
First, I'd make sure that the computer is completely clean: run a MalwareBytes Anti-Malware full scan: http://majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=5756
Once that finishes, try resetting Winsock and TCP/IP again by running the same commands; however the winsock command might be a bit different: try this instead:
netsh winsock reset netsh int ip reset
If that still doesn't work, go ahead and copy and paste what ipconfig says when you try to ipconfig /release. To dump it all into a text file, just do ipconfig /release > log.txt. The text file should be in whatever directory you're in when you run it (it'll say when you run command prompt).
If it's custom built and you don't have "service tag number" open your case and write down motherboard manufacturer/model number and then go to their site and search for that motherboard, you'll probably see "drivers"/"download" section, go there and download LAN/Ethernet/Network drivers. If you don't manage to find it just reply to my comment and I'll help you.
You could also use some sort of software such as Unknown Devices that should identify your network card and then you can use that model to search for drivers, but note that it's not always 100% correct and I wouldn't advise that you use this method first.
Here is a link to MajorGeeks. I've heard good things about Recuva, and it is a free utility. There are forums at the same site to help you understand how to use it.
If you go to Dell Support and put in your service tag you can click on Warranty Status Then Original System Configuration. It will list out the components including the wireless adapter. If you click on the Drivers Home link on the left and expand the Network column you should get an idea of what you are looking for on the Original System Configuration page.
Alternativly you can download Unknown Devices. It does a pretty good job of determining the hardware info of unknown devices.
Try Windows Installer Clean up utility. http://majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=4459
Also you can manually find it in the future using regedit, HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall From that key search for "Bad Company 2"
Go to Majorgeeks.com and install the recommended software as directed.
Also try creating an Admin profile and a separate profile with no install rights that you use for everything else. I've block a fair number of things like that
Are you sure the hosts file is not in there? Try going to tools -> folder options and making sure you can view hidden files.
Also, try running WinsockXPfix http://majorgeeks.com/download4372.html
Hmm, not much to go on there.
- what did WhoCrashed say caused the crashes?
- what are the specs of the computer?
- can you run IBT for 20 passes? Check temps during and report back.
- can you run Furmark for 30-60 mins? Check video card temps during and report back.
CoreTemp is alright, but hwmonitor gives a lot more info.
I've fixed this before, you need to use the Windows Installer Cleanup utility from Microsoft. It's no longer supported by Microsoft due to incompatability with Office 2007.
Basically you have a bad install / uninstall of itunes and this utility will clean that up for you. Be careful only to use it on itunes.
>temps doing minimal pc stuff
It's hard to say whether your temps are good or not with this information. Go download Intel Burn Test or Prime95 and report what temps you get after a couple minutes of load.
Out of curiosity, for 17% load while doing "minimal pc stuff," what exactly are you doing? I can't think of an ordinary program that would pull that much usage on an i7-2600k.
Oh, oops, re-read your note/initial comment...
Disable AutoPlay without Admin rights...
Or The Ultimate Windows Tweaker (TweakUI replacement)
I just don't know if it will work w/no admin...
Try removing all traces of iTunes/QT using Revo Uninstaller
Then, it anything is still leftover try Windows Installer CleanUp Utility
http://majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=4459&file=15&evp=fe1c76da3437592326a3d668d72bf8f5
in 7 you will have to use run as admin and maybe compatibility mode depending on your updates status.
I wrote a great tool that might help. Download it from MajorGeeks and run the SSL\HTTPS\Cryptsvc fix on the front page. Here is a link:
:)
Hmm, I did a hdd speed test on my external drive using majorgeek's HD Speed and read at 29MB/s.
I wonder if that will be fast enough for all the texture loading in the game.
There's all kinds of free photo programs out there that you could have used to crispen up the pic a bit. Sometimes they help, sometimes they don't.. Depends on which one(s) you try. I have one called RIOT, it's a zip installer (find zipinstall at Nirsoft, it's free, and riot is at:
http://majorgeeks.com/RIOT_d5990.html
Always make a copy for playing with and leave the original in it's folder.
If you haven't formated it yet you might be able to get it before you do. With a keyfinder like jalapeno. http://majorgeeks.com/Jalapeno_Keyfinder_d5253.html Just install the drive it and see if you get it to boot and run with the old OS in place. You might not need to reformat. Anyway if you have XP on it already reinstalling shouldn't need the key. Unless you were getting prompts before when the OS was installed on the new drive the last time.
It's supposed to start w/windowz. Check the options again. If you allowed it to start w/win then you might have a restriction to registry tools in your policies. You can find and eliminate these restrictions with a little program called dial-a-fix you can download for free and from a safe site:
http://majorgeeks.com/Dial-a-fix_d4899.html
It comes zipped as I recall. And contains a lot of repair options.
If you don't want to do all of the above go to the folder of the program and make a shorcut and then move it to documents and settings: owner: start menu: program files: startup...make sure you undo the option to boot w win to avoid registry errors.
Oh wow, they changed the website out from under me. Now it's a completely different program with the same name.
Here's the old NTFS Undelete that I'm still using:
It's not exposing the windows that I want. I want to always have the window displayed transparently and be able to click though it without having any windows coming though or the view changing. So losing it's input focus. Essentially, I want to be able to use the effect of this windows program: http://majorgeeks.com/Ghost-It_d1128.html , in ubuntu.
There is a program called BIMP lite that is free that will batch-process images, renaming them, changing their format, etc. It's a teeny tiny little program too. You could use fraps to punch out a bunch of screenshots, then run them through BIMP to convert them to jpgs or pngs. (And even batch-rename them if you like). I use it all the time for batch-conversion and batch-renaming. (Though, I've moved more into using adobe bridge for the renaming...but enough about that.)
Here's the program if you're interested: http://majorgeeks.com/BIMP_Lite_d5500.html
you can try the alternative flash player updater. It never bugs me about flash but every day it does say it has an update for itself. But the neato thing, is it doesnt tell you what it is... meaning a window pops up and the only text on it at all is "there is a new version would you like to update"
took me a while to figure out what program wanted to update itself, which is far more entertaining than the normal flash updater.
Glad to be of help.
Lemme know how/if you like the program.
There's others out there but that's the only one I'm familiar with other than MBM which hasn't been updated in a while.
Install & run Spybot S&D http://www.safer-networking.org/en/download/
Delete files in \windows\prefetch
Delete hidden files in your home directory (documents and settings\username\local settings\temp) You may have hidden files so type attirb to list hidden files, attrib -shr to expose them.
Get hijackthis (http://majorgeeks.com/download3155.html) and remove unknown processes...