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Yeah he loves it, hasn’t left his hand since I gave it to him for Christmas. This is the kit I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AG6OMX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_
He asked me to add a pocket clip to it so I added one that I had lying around.
The wood comes unfinished too, so I sprayed a few coats of lacquer on it to protect it from him beating it to death ;)
Looks like a gas station kunai with the tip snapped off. Most likely it was thrown into trees and other objects til the tip snapped. I think i found it online here
Sorry, but I think this goth lolita chef knife is the worst $1,000+ knife in the world. Not quite a custom, but still made-to-order.
This stuff:
It's food grade mineral oil, tasteless, odorless, colorless, designed to be used on wooden cutting boards. Put a couple of drops on a paper towel, wipe it on the steel, wipe it off. What remains is a thin coating that will prevent rust. Watch your fingertips around the edges while you wipe.
I had a Freudian slip in the title it's not acid etching, it's electro-chemical. I used a computer controlled cutting machine with sticky vinyl for masking.
Why would you buy one from this place? Higos are only made one of two places: in Miki by Nagao, the descendant of the original smith, or the ones called Higinaifu, made by a company headed by a smith who used to work for the original guys. These are meant to be low-priced working-class carpenter's knives... Rather than spend $60 on a cheap imitation, buy a Higonaifu (because they are better and more-consistently made than the originals) here for $25 ($33 shipped to US) or here for $12-$28 (+$3 shipping).
They do carry the classic with Army stamping on the blade and the sheath instead of USMC:
https://www.amazon.com/1220-Straight-Fighting-Utility-Leather/dp/B000BSWE9Q/
Just ordered the Mora Eldris with a Firestarter Kit for $23.69 (instead of the usual $39.99).
Awesome deals!
I just googled “wooden knife kit” and I found this one on amazon, looks like the same one with an actual pocket clip. Amazon actually has a lot of kits like this it looks like
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AG6OMX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZT7jCbKSTGTKH
Might I suggest Ruike if youre looking for a nice knife for a reasonable price. The P108 is really nice.
Lansky Diamond sharpening system is what I've heard is the easiest to use and best to get a nice sharp edge.
My price on amazon is $70. I think you got a deal!
My dude, I present to you, the most Premium and Tacticool of all Box Cutters all for 13 bucks!
The best part is that I'm actually not joking.
I'm sorry you don't like my information. I'm passionate about straight razors and want to clarify to anybody considering one that, IMHO, this is not something that should be used for shaving. Search eBay, Alibaba, or any other sales site for "handmade Damascus straight razor" and you'll find tons (probably literally) of products that look almost-identical to this.
Nice display piece, that's all. Similar to buying pocket knives like these.
If you are really knifeless, you can get a decent folding knife in Walmart for $3.87:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Flip-Opening-Knife-Tan/46543619
Sometimes the price drops even lower, I got it when it was like $2.70. There are couple other models by Ozark for the same price (3.87), but I liked this one the best.
Been EDCing my ultratech every day since I got it and it started misfiring or not locking but just lubed it with some Hoppe's Lubricating Oil and the problem pretty much dissipated. The deploy force can barely get into cardboard though.
Eafengrow EF906 Folding Pocket Knife D2 Steel Blade and Titanium Alloy Handle Multitool with Clip for Outdoor Camping Tactical Everday Carry (Frame Lock) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KMSK24S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B2C6F7N0X81AP3DDF2ZH
It's only $41 on amazon... That's not a huge difference. I'd pay $50 for the tenacious probably.
> Is there good knife for $20 or so?
Kizer's new Tangram line is extremely well-regarded for $30. Sometimes they're on sale for a bit less. You can choose the Amarillo with a flipper like you described or the Santa Fe with thumbstuds. Either can be opened one-handed.
If you really want to get it down to $20, look on Amazon for a Kershaw that's made in China, which will be cheaper than a Kershaw that's made in the US. Check that it uses 8Cr13MoV steel and not a lower grade like 4Cr14.
Pointless sawback and a hollow handle combined with fairly small size for its blade shape are all red flags. Knives like this are never good.
Also, it costs $11 on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Survivor-HK-695B-Reverse-Serrated-Overall/dp/B0049NV22E
Not good. Sorry.
It is the first one I made. This tutorial is awesome (it has pictures for every step and is well explained):
http://www.instructables.com/id/Paracord-Bullwhip/?ALLSTEPS
I would make a tutorial, but I couldn't explain it better myself.
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L72P245/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V3EJQ3YNPN4YX8W11G2A
Similar to the Lanksy but imo better since the angle is infinitely adjustable and the base is much more secure.
It is made by KATSU, I think roughly based on the traditional Japanese higonokami friction folder. They sell for $93 on Amazon
What blade did you lose? Also, I don't know if you'll like it but I had a Kershaw Volt SS (it was my first folder) and I loved it. I even got the blade scary sharp (8cr13mov, nothing special but it makes me happy enough). Also, it's relatively inexpensive right now on amazon :).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007W1QCIY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B6dmwbWTV1WZE
Edit: on second thought, i like the Cryo better (but i have no experience with it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gjemwb6R3MESE
For $40? No thanks. A nomal xacto is like $4 on amazon. For half what that costs you can get an xacto bundle that includes 10 different blades, 3 handles, and a zippered carrying case. https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Zippered-Storage-X5285/dp/B00JWFIKOC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465386610&sr=8-4&keywords=xacto
Those are all quality knives.
Kitchen knives will last forever if you do this:
1) Use a wood cutting board, never ceramic or acrylic. Soft plastic is OK too.
2) Never, ever put them in the dishwaster.
3) Don't put them in the sink, either. After use, clean them, dry them, and put them away as soon as you can.
4) Get (or make) a knife holder. If they go into a drawer, make a knife holder for the drawer. It can be as simple as a zig-zag folded piece of cardboard.
Why?
The edge of any knife, even if made of the best steel, is fragile. If it rattles around against other knives in a drawer, it gets beat up very quickly. Dishwashers are terrible this way.
Also, the blades of you kitchen knives are 'blue paper steel' - a very, very nice carbon steel that will rust within minutes if left in a wet sink. This is normal for good steel. When done using them, clean them, dry them, put them away.
Finally, every knife, no matter how good, will normally grow dull with use. Sharpening knives is a bit of a skill, but maintaining a good edge is easy.
Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PTM31O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a simple pull-through sharpener, made with with ceramic rods. A half-dozen strokes after each use will keep them sharp forever.
Be very careful about this - never, ever use one of the similar-looking devices that has carbide shears instead of ceramic rods. Those are god-awful things that will ruin your knives very quickly. The ceramic-rod versions are fine.
You need torx bits. And anything wiha is good to go. Check Amazon they have tons of wiha sets.
Wiha 79242 11 Piece Torx Bit Selector (T5-T30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7S4NFWS2485JEKWK5C77?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I do my first pass on the belt sander, then finish them by hand on a set of stones and a strop (these stones specifically)
Interesting, Schrade makes a knife similar to this
Schrade SCHF1 Large Extreme Survival One-Piece Drop Forged Spear Point Fixed Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CZFPSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3MC1G3V1ZD6V9P635Z97
Milled from 1070.
Very nice knife, good find.
Recipe:
-Remove scales (obviously, but someone will ask!)
*use gloves
Wash scales with soap and water
Use a splash of of isopropyl alcohol on the scales to agitate the G10 - dry them
Using a 1/3 cup measuring cup - add 8 parts water to 1 part dye in a pot - bring to slow boil
Use wire to lower scales into your mix while it’s boiling for 30 seconds
Rinse scales in cold water and let dry
I just got a Spyderco Dragonfly2 and it cost me ~$47 from amazon. I think it fits your requirements well.
blade length ~2.2in,
super lightweight,
easy to open,
grippy handle, but there's a spyderco logo instead of "texture" under the clip no matter where you move the clip to
plain steel blade, and it's good steel (VG10)
If you'd really like to keep the price down, maybe consider the spyderco ambitious?
It's similarly small (2.25in blade), has a g10 handle, but costs about $10-$15 less than the Dragonfly because it's made in China instead of Japan and it uses 8Cr13mov steel which is cheaper than VG10
That's a Benchmade 940. These retail on amazon for $180ish. Being a prototype certainly adds value, but I'm not sure how much. Likely worth $250-300, but could be worth as much as $500 depending on the buyer and how rare prototypes are.
Cold Steel Pro Lite is always a good option.
Solid, light, easy to carry, reliable lock and decent steel (for the price).
I loved mine.
I used to work as an EMT, and I've seen a few occasions where belts needed to be cut and windows broken. One guy I treated put his car into a deep narrow ditch and the water killed the electric windows. He punched a side window out with his fist, which I didn't think was even possible. Tough dude.
Anyway, for that problem, you want one of these:
They work great, and you can zip-tie the holder to your parking break handle. It'll still be there after you roll upside down, and you'll still be able to find it.
As for SD, that's complicated. Ask over on /r/martialarts.
As for EDC, we, as a community, regard it as an act of faith that every properly-appointed person ought to have a suitable knife along with them, lest they be stymied by the first bit of stout cord they encounter. There's a million great choices, get whatever you like.
/u/spaced_inv8r, this is the brand I mentioned to you on Youtube.
I also find their dogtag knife (ODT Clone) fascinating since it's M390 for ~$25. Here's the only review I've found on it.
"Good" is a relative adjective when it comes to throwing stars. Any flat pointy star shaped piece of metal can be thrown like a frisbee and it will stick into whatever surface it can penetrate, so long as it doesn't fly through it. From the little experience I've had as a former wannabe ninja, (who am I kidding, I still wanna be a ninja!), 4 point stars are more likely to stick in their target. I only had cheap ones as a kid, but if anything, they helped me refine my sharpening skills since I had to resharpen (often reshape) the pointy parts after they hit the brick wall behind my target.
These are probably the cheapest. These are probably of "good" quality. Have fun!
That stamp mark is your best chance of ID. Try to get a non-blurry one! Does your camera have macro mode (often a little flower icon)?
This style is known as a "coin" knife. Here's a similar knife: https://store.nwtmint.com/product_details/588/Marine_Coin_Knife_1_7_8_quot_Bronze_Antique/
edit: looking on google images, there are a few french coin knives that are similar, though obviously older; http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=348r1hk&s=5
Fixed blade hunting knives are a good starting point. There are many different tutorials to help get you started. This is not my favorite website, but a decent article:
Pretty sure this is on Amazon. I've had one. $59.99 https://www.amazon.com/Damascus-Karambit-Handmade-Hunting-Tactical/dp/B083R1FH61/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?dchild=1&keywords=karambit&qid=1626123304&sr=8-30
Both sides are sharpened, the one I had was made in Pakistan, rusted quickly and the overall quality was a bit messy with jagged epoxy/glue sticking out of the seams. I passed it onto my friend who is more into karambits than I am.
Here is the extractor set I think would work if all else fails. I think there is enough meat left on those screws that you would be fine with the right tool but if not. here is the link for the extractor set
Oh, it s a good steel. It used to be the sort of steel you only saw in higher end knives, it’s trickled down a lot over the years so now it’s very common. It’s a very definite step up from the lower end knife steels. I agree with the other posters that it’s really not that hard to sharpen or take care of. A simple ceramic rod sharpener like the Spyderco sharpener or really any of the type would be more that enough to start with being that this is your first decent knife.
This is the first think that looked decent on Amazon when I sorted by price low to high. Stay away from the pull through sharpeners especially any that use carbide.
I see only the lightest freckling of rust, and that will wipe right off. The dark color is called 'patina' and carbon steels naturally take on this color as they age. I think most of us would wipe the blade with a rag and a drop or two of mineral oil, and leave it just as it is.
Sharpening is a big topic; my advice is to decide on a method, practice on knives you don't care about until you master it, and then you'll enjoy a lifelong skill and a kitchen full of sharp knives. All your friends will have sharp knives too. My usual advice is to spend $25 on a three-stone lansky kit at amazon. Practice on junk knives first!
I'd get one of these:
I'm on my second. First one got stolen. I'd buy a third in heartbeat if necessary.
Great camp knife, and it comes with a great sheath, nice sticky handle, and a fire steel.
Check out the Benchmade 940.
One of the best and most popular sub $200 knives out there, will be great for either carry, use or keep in the collection.
Check out the Ontario Nona - seems to be what you are looking for.
if it had not been for the engravings i would have said Japanese WW2 but if the engravings are original and not added by your grandfather for some reason (which I highly doubt). I have to agree with uwsdwfishmyname probably WW1. After a quick google search I found a few that look pretty similar that are French. Seems to be something like this this guy says M1874 Gras Bayonet ~~if anyone can help me figure out what that is. I will do a bit more snooping trying to find out more about it give me a few minutes and ill edit this.~~
edit: that was acctually very easy to find out more on the bayonet, It seems to me it matches up to the script of a bayonet sword made in St. Etienne Armory 1876 (I think may but can't see the month to well). It was one of the last sword bayonets the French made they stopped using it in early WW1. this is the page I think would give you the most information
hope this helps:)
Check out our Knife Buyer's Guide for some initial ideas. It is categorized by both company and price.
If you cant find anything how about some specifics, we have price, but what about blade shape, size, legal restrictions, handle types, lock types
Right now my personal EDC is the 890 Torrent which can be had for about $110 bucks
Check out the Ganzo G753M1, the smaller, more EDCable version of the G7531.
I had both and I'll pick the mini anytime.
It costs a lot less than the Condor, so it will be easier for you to get it first, then save up for the more expensive knife.
If you want a strong Ganzo - get the Ganzo G7452.
Just got one and that knife is a tank!
Reminds me of the Adamas, just a bit more compact.
look up toxicfab on instagram. They aren't cheap though, he makes each of them by hand and they are fantastic quality. Really nice guy. I was gonna buy one but ended up not having the money for it, and he was really nice about it. His page is https://www.instagram.com/toxicfab/
Edit: He is a really busy guy, so I would only talk to him if you have a serious inquiry on the knife.
Great Idea! We can open a Google doc an collaborate on it, then post it and have it pinned to the sidebar, if anyone else is down with that idea. I can host the document for the mean time, if someone wants to start working on it.
Oh man, haven't gotten around to getting it heat treated yet, I was starting a forge here pretty soon as you can recall from the post I made, i was going to try and heat treat it myself as opposed to sending it out for professional heat treat.
That, and I've been positively swamped by commissions and other such projects. Speaking of, the Ti kiridashi I'm working on, put to shame by your steel one. :D
Edit: Although I did get to finish a 9" one recently! ( Wyatt, if you're reading, look away! https://www.flickr.com/photos/82311196@N06/13912843311/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/82311196@N06/13912860776/ )
Complete with acid stone wash. Nom!
It looks to me like a fairly generic factory made knife, so I'm not sure that it really has a specific model number, or that the Remington branding is authentic. It's probably made from 420J2 stainless steel or an equivalent. I don't see anything wrong with it; I wouldn't expect it to have spectacular edge holding ability or anything, but for beater use it should hold up fairly well.
You can find a lot of similar knives online like this or this.
I have one too. More Pics. https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2175873/1/cardknife?h=6efcbf Very thin, holding up fine. Feels flimsy but does a great job. Very solid when snapped together. It is not a replacement for a heavy duty pocket knife. It is a great knife to have with you. I think of it as a very sharp replacement for the little swiss army knife, but with a bigger sharper blade.
sri lanka piha kaetta dagger and a original. you dont see many examples from the dutch occupation this is probably pre dutch. its got multi metal koftgari and inlay this is a very nice piece and a lot of the hilts are made out of local iron woods that seem to last forever like some of the kris. for care i would wipe it down with mineral oil cloth to remove dirt and grime then use ren wax on both the hilt, blade, and scabbard to prevent the wood from drying out and oxidation or rust damaging the steel or precious metals. with a mixed metal piece you got to worry about mixed metal corrosion and total air seal will help a lot. last piece i saw like this went for near 1k usd.
​
u/wotan_weevil can probably tell you a whole lot more he knows more about obscure south east asian weapons. i always have to google "sri lanka knife" i can never remember "piha kaetta"
​
also bit about me, im a antique collector who mostly post in r/swords and dont have any kaetta but quite a few other similar pieces and lots of experience caring for them.
Worksharp Precision Adjust Sharpener works great and is easy to get a consistently good edge. It's a good value at $50, too
Oh lol, forgive me im dumb
Its a milwaukee, i just got it at home depot
There is always a $5 Stanley box cutter with retractable & replacable blades.
Similarly, in terms of budget, I use this Mora from Amazon (was at $9.99 when I got it) which I gave a forced patina with a few hours in Apple cider vinegar that I keep by my recycle been. Requires occasional stropping, but I much prefer the handle and blade length to a regular box cutter.
At $10-$15, I have a handful variations on that I keep around the house. If it breaks or I lose one, no big deal.
For such simple items, there is an awful lot of wisdom embedded in good knife design.
The second and third photos show a wide (spine to edge) blade with a pretty-much full flat grind. This is a knife that will slice, and that will resharpen easily with a minimum of metal being removed.
Compare that to a mora classic, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Classic-Handle-Utility-3-9-Inch/dp/B00449YYM8
Narrow blade, scandi grind. Can't slice an apple to save its life. But, it is strong, great for working through tough wood, and the narrow profile meas that it can cut tighter curves. Carving a spoon? You don't want that first blade.
Look at the handles. The mora is neutral, meaning it allows any grip. You can hold it comfortably in any orientation. The first knife is not going to work in a reverse grip at all, but in a standard grip, it's not going to move around, either.
The mora's edge goes right to the handle - that's the sweet spot for applying force during a cut. The first knife has a finger choil, a feature I personally hate but which others seem to love.
Will the handle be cold and suck the heat from your hands in winter? Will it break during batoning? Will it offer a good grip when wet? Will it work with gloves? Will it poke you in the side while you carry it? Can you find the knife on the trail after you've dropped it and walked away? Is the tip oriented near the centerline for use in piercing, or raised high to allow push-cutting? Is the blade thick for strength or thin for slicing? Is the strength of the handle in balance with the strength of the blade? Is there any unnecessary steel which can be removed? Where is the balance point, and why?
It's a very rich topic for such a simple tool.
Found it. Probably sold under various nonsense Chinese brands. And still probably copied from a legitimate knife maker, like basically everything China makes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6U0C6N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RS4S3V6F2K1R74GXXS3H
step up to this model:
Ontario Knife Company 8848 Rat I Folding Knife - EDC Knife (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WPBXZHS3V3KVBSK0ZDJB
Or for about $40 you can get a D2 model which has a little better steel
But mostly practice. Start with a knife that has very little belly to the tip like a wharncliffe and then work your way up to something with severe belly like a vintage butcher's knife.
Here is a cheap option:
https://www.amazon.com/Moteng-Ontario-Knives-Hop-Knife/dp/B000VYK7HG
If you hunt around you can find these as little as $8.
The grind on this one is very thick so you'll be easily able to see what you are doing to the bevel at the tip.
I'm not sure, I think just sell them. Seems someone is ahead of you here it was basically this, just styled like a Muskrat style case knife instead.
Bondhus and wera are top of the line. I work for a german industrial automation company. That's all we use for torx. For wrenches and pliers, Knipex all day.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7XJR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.PV.FbPVVB9W5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078S6CMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQV.Fb5TPR9QW
https://huckberry.com/store/stone-river-gear/category/p/19482-folding-knife-desert-ironwood
Found it here by reverse image searching, but it's out of stock
http://www.amazon.com/Stone-River-Gear-Ceramic-Ironwood/dp/B00E5SYRQ6 And it's on amazon!
Years ago I bought the Linder version and thought it was an excellent value. A few years later I read the current amazon reviews before recommending it to someone else, only to see that the quality had substantially declined. It's hard to tell because so many brands get sold out and cheapened down.
The best way I know to predict quality is to read recent Amazon reviews. These two are the top rated:
One last thought - are you in the UK? You may need a special permit or something.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CR4AAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5c5LFb778RRN7 Also available under the "Timber Rattler" brand for cheaper.
Similar, but quality, may include Condor Undertaker or Cold Steel Frontier.
They're super cheap and you can order them off amazon: Higo no Kami 7 Pocket Knife by Nagao Seisakusho, Parkerized Black Satin Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU8ML46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oBGpzbK29P04T
I see Amazon has both the regular and a 'small' version:
Ah, I see. Kershaw's website has it listed at the full MSRP, but most other vendors sell it at MAP, which is closer to 50 for most versions. Amazon link for example: https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Ken-Onion-Leek/dp/B0009VC9Y0
Yeah, that definitely reduces the risk (don't agree about Amazon though if you buy directly from the company, like in this case).
Anyway, I heard there is a new trick scammers use - they order an original knife, swap it with a clone and return it for a refund (which will be later sold to another customer as a new knife).
Can slip even with big retailers, so need to be careful and check either way.
It depends.
The problem as I see it is that scammers buy fake Spydercos, then order genuine ones from Amazon (but also from other knife stores) and do the switcheroo (return the fake instead of the genuine knife).
It can slip through even with large knife retailers, so you need to be alert no matter where you buy it from.
If you order one directly from Amazon (like in this case) - you should be fine as long as you check it thoroughly that it isn't fake and even if it is - you could send it back without a hustle.
How to tell if the PM2 is a fake one (without disassembly):
On the genuine one there will be 2 cutouts in the non-lock liner, on the fake one only
Gimping on the genuine one will be asymmetrical and pointing backwards, on the fake it will be symmetrical and straight.
The scales on the fake will be less grippy and more rounded on the edges than on the genuine PM2s.
On the fakes with a black blade - the liner will also be black (in most cases), while on the genuine black bladed PM2s the liner will be silver (uncoated).
If you get the chance to disassemble the knife, the biggest tell is the Spyderco's bushing system vs just a regular pivot on the fake.
If someone else needs a second opinion to determine if their knife is fake - shoot me a PM or even better post in my sub (r/chineseknives).
I ordered this knife from amazon, this link: https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-Knife-940-Plain-Handle/dp/B000QA9G2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511052177&sr=8-1&keywords=benchmade+940
I have a box with the tags and the little bag and everything and it feels just the griptilian I own. But the action isn't as smooth at my griptilian and there are the main concerns listed in the album. I don't understand why it says 'benchmade.com/pat' and it doesn't even seem very centered or aligned.
Is this a fake or real?
When I started using stones I couldn't trust myself to have repeatable angles in my grind. I splurged for a set of guides from Amazon. They are there purely for reference and to help develop that muscle memory.
Never ever use a knife for self defense especially in California. Even if you are the victim and did it in self-defense, you will be prosecuted worse than your attacker. Just let go of this mentality. A knife is a tool. Carry mace, carry a 300+ lumens flashlight that will blind an attacker even in daylight so you can run away. Hell, carry an unbreakable cane from Coldsteel - those are 100% legal world-wide even on a plane.
A nice budget option is the Kershaw Link. Made in the USA and on sale right on Amazon for $29.94
The blue handle model is only $3 more. Good luck with your first purchase.
For EDC, consider a Skeletool for your next purchase. Honestly it's one of my most used tools, and I love it. I have the CX version which looks slightly cooler and has slightly better steel, but the normal version is still awesome (aparently they jumped in price on amazon though...).
Can't add a photo in a reply I guess. Flashlight in a rotating holster on left hip. Leatherman on custom magnetic holster on right hip. Watch on wrist, Spiderco Smock in custom pouch I made for my pocket so I can carry tip side down. Holster on Amazon (there are many brands with the same holster, this is the cheapest I found at the time): AIRSOFTPEAK Flashlight Pouch Holster Carry Case Holder with 360 Degrees Rotatable Belt Clip Long Type, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SQ09K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zc6XCbWEXDBDS
Custom Leatherman holster I made: https://youtu.be/bg-QT0tAWWg
It's hard to see, but I also made a clip that holds my belt to my pants so all this crap doesn't pull my belt out of the loops when I go to the bathroom or tuck in my shirttails.
Hey dude, thank you! Glad you like it.
If you would like to replace that long lost zippo, I got mine on Amazon here for like 15 bucks:
Zippo 240 Vintage Brushed Brass with Slashes Pocket Lighter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NKNTUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XNU8Cb4KD68E3
Also, here is the organizer!: There is only one left FYI. as far as I know this is hand made buy this guy in Lithuania and sold on etsy. Took a few weeks to make it to me due to the international shipping, but the price and quality was definitely worth it!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/638734284/leather-pocket-edc-organizer-with-pen?ref=shop_home
Check out POM OC Spray. Great stuff, way safer for you than using a knife (both physically and legally). They have a version with a pocket clip so you can keep it ready. Heck, you could just keep it in your hand while you skate if you want to since it's just a little tube. Can't do that with a knife or you'll look sketchy/crazy. Just my $0.02.
Snody snake charmer? https://www.amazon.com/KA-BAR-KNIVES-Charmer-Silver-5103/dp/B00ILFN526/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=snody+snake+charmer&qid=1600143144&sprefix=Snody+snake+&sr=8-3
Edit: or for a folder there is the Kizer shard frame. Use the coupon KNIFEDEALS at checkout to get 10 percent off the price. https://whitemountainknives.com/kizer-shard-mini-pocket-folding-knife-6al4v-ti-handle-s35vn-plain-edge-ki2531a1/
Check out the Spyderco Ikuchi.
Lightweight, slim, CF, S30V, deep carry wire clip.
Probably the most gentleman-like knife in Spyderco's lineup.
2 bucks over your requested pricepoint, but the fallkniven A1 may be an option: https://www.amazon.com/Fallkniven-Fixed-Blade-Knife-Black/dp/B001DZM482/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fallkniven+a1&qid=1553489566&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Check out the Lionsteel TRE.
3 adjustable opening methods, 2.91" M930 blade - close to perfect EDC blade.
As for the 6" fixed blade I'd get the Cold Steel SRK.
Smaller general use pocket knife - Ontario RAT D2.
I'd choose either the Benchmade Griptilian/Mini Grip or the Spyderco Manix 2.
Both solid options, truly ambidextrous, have decent materials, great companies, warranty services and you couldn't go wrong with either.
Nice picture comparison. I'm sure in a purely functional point of view, both knives will perform pretty similar but there are significant differences.
The xm-18 (the one pictured) has one side to look like a g-10 grip (like the el-01), but on the other side of the xm is a nice thick slab of titanium, a premium metal used in many higher end knives.
The steel used are also different, but only about 1-2 points difference when it comes to Rc scale (8cr13mov is 56-58 hardness, and the steels used on the xm is 58-61). In certain situations, lower is actually better.
It's really quite amazing how the el-01 looks very similar in design though, and for the price difference, wow it would be hard to pick one (unless you have cash lying around all over the place).
Edit: I just looked up the price of one. For every 1 xm-18 purchased, you can get over 100 el-01. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rick-Hinderer-Gen-3-XM-18-3-5-Flipper-Carbon-Fiber-Anodized-Bronze-Titanium-/260917376743?pt=Collectible_Knives&hash=item3cbfe336e7
“Function like a hand guillotine”, you want an Ulu knife. Something like this is as close to “hand guillotine” as you can get lol.
Kershaw Leek Purple Folding Knife
Kershaw Leek, Teal Pocket Knife
They have lots of colors available just do a search for "Kershaw Leek".
Here's the cheap version of the edgepro:
This is the 'Worksharp', the little belt sander. People seem to be really happy with these:
In the Knifeits Unofficial Knife Buying Guide:
"Serrations are good for sawing things when you don’t need the end result to be tidy. They’re also good for cutting things with strong outer shells and softer inners, like a tomato.
Now serrations for knives, I would generally not recommend them, first of all, on the cheaper knives the serrations are usually bad, second is that serrations are harder to sharpen, and lastly, your knife is probably 3 to 4 inches long. If you are going camping and know you need to saw something, get a small/medium straight edged fixed blade and a small saw or even one of the folding ones. Serrations also look more aggressive, so if you get frisked by the police and carry a serrated EDC, it will look worse than a straight edge.
As to partially serrated; you cant saw much with 2 inches of serrations, or cut with the other half, so instead of getting best of both worlds you get nothing."
Here's the one you're looking for. $17! And a review. I'm going to echo /u/rezhead though, I bought a few Ganzos and a clone, and didn't use them/gave them away. I have heard Ganzos have improved, but I'd look at Ruike, Steel Will, or Real Steel for a bit more money, but something you're more likely to keep for a while.
I have a Real Steel H6 S1 that cost me around $35, and I have to say, It's one of my favorites, ever, and I've owned Benchmades, Spydercos and ZT.
Just a heads up. You'll want to do a bit of research before you buy any. Like I said in my previous comment, there are some really good knives there but on the flip side there's some real tat. The brilliant thing is that because they're so cheap you're not going to cry for a week if you lose one like you would with a CRK or something like that.
Sanrenmu and Ganzo are usually good bets. Iirc they actually do OEM work for Spyderco and Benchmade for their Chinese manufactured blades. That's why you'll see some of them with features you'd usually associate with those companies. They have a licensing deal which means they can manufacture them like that so long as they don't sell them directly overseas. The kicker is that GearBest is a third party so they buy them from the manufacturers and can then sell them wherever they want.
Two common GearBest knives which will get you a nod of approval on this sub:
They're one of the most reputable in the UK, their service and product selection are excellent and the prices are generally either standard rates or slightly cheaper. Also, they accept custom orders so if there's something you can't find in their stock they'll give you a quote to buy it in specially (although it might not be cheap).
There's also GearBest, but don't look there for "proper" knives from big brands because they simply don't sell them. Their service is patchy and standard shipping takes weeks because they're a Chinese company, but equally the knives they sell are so cheap that it's all good fun. You shouldn't expect what they sell to be Benchmade quality, but at the same time there are some real gems for the price (especially if you're willing to tweak them a bit).