These lights were created by people waving those light sticks around.
Here's someone's foot on the right, and someone standing over on the left You can actually spot more people around the car in positions holding the 'wands'.
Simple as one of these bad boys https://www.amazon.com/Nanguang-Handheld-Photography-Background-Simulations/dp/B0752PXJS2
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E
These are pretty standard for the industry. Sound great and are not too expensive. I use them pretty much everyday when I'm editing. The only thing is they aren't noise cancelling, so if that's something you want then you might want to go for something else. But I've used them in the office with other people working/talking near me and I've been fine.
FFmpeg is the tool for this, but if you don't want to mess around with system path variables, command line, and shell scripts, you can use Shutter Encoder to run FFmpeg commands in bulk.
Add all the files to the list, then where it says 'output 1' click 'change' and set an output directory (so you don't mix the new files up with the old ones.)
Paste the following command into the 'function' box (it's an editable text box):
ffmpeg -ss 00:00:06 -c:v libx264 -cq 24 -c:a aac -b:a 192k -c:s copy -map 0
And set Ext/Filter to .mp4 and click 'start function.'
This process may result in the files being a bit larger than they were to start with.
You could also try:
ffmpeg -ss 00:00:06 -c copy -map 0
however it will end up with not exactly 6 seconds getting trimmed off the video, so on some videos some of the noise you're trying to remove may still be there.
Please state the licensing you're releasing these with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Need help? Understanding CC.
Xbox game bar does weird stuff with resolution in the video file, Premiere doesn't like it and thinks the resolution is higher than the video actually is (basically.)
You need to transcode the footage before you import. Use Shutter Encoder, transcode to ProRes 422 or h.264 if you're short of space and replace the clips in your project with the transcodes.
Xbox game bar footage is also variable framerate which can cause issues, and since the fix to that is transcoding as well you get two birds with one stone ;-)
When you're exporting it, you're transcoding the video to a new bitrate.
So if you want the filesize to be the same, you need to reduce the export bitrate to match whatever the OG file is - but this will reduce the quality.
But there's a better solution for this!
Export just the audio from your editor, then use Shutter Encoder's 'replace audio' function to combine the new audio with the OG video.
The filesize will be pretty much the same, and the video quality won't be affected at all.
You should only pay money if it's:
Anything else is a waste of money because Davinci Resolve is nearly as good as all 3, and it is free.
We could argue all day about which one of these three is the best, but Premiere is certainly the most common overall.
Panasonic G7. Depending on the type of kit lens you get with it, it's usually under $1000 dollars, or a little over it. It looks like the best camera in regards to specs.
I found a terrific deal on Amazon for it, along with extra equipment along with it for about $550:
Please state the licensing you're releasing these tracks with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Please post exactly the licensing you're using.
Need help? Understanding CC.
You can do this with the software you have. Behold the power of unsharp mask: https://vimeo.com/45635214
He explains how he did it here: http://davidhjlindberg.blogspot.se/2012/07/increase-depth-power-of-sharpen.html
You can also apply curves to get your shadows down and add a bit more contrast that way. Play with it and see how it goes.
good luck!
From the perspective of someone who can already edit, Lightworks is easily the best, as it's a professional grade NLE. However that might not be what you mean when you ask that question. Beginners (and even intermediate users) may struggle with it.
Also, if you're a Linux user, OpenShot looks promising, but I have not tried it personally.
If files can play in VLC then this might be an easy fix.
What version of Premiere your videographer is using and when was it released?
Premiere did not support XVAC until mid 2013 so there is a possibility that his version is simply outdated and that he never installed update.
Try https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/ there is a free version of this software that will most definitely play XVAC without any problems, but you need fairly powerful machine in order to be able to use it.
Hope this helps.
You cannot increase the GPU RAM in the future. You can increase the normal RAM in the future. If you plan on keeping the laptop for a while, I would still increase the GPU RAM. The choice also isn't just 2 vs 4 GB in GPU RAM, but 1050 vs 1050ti which is about 10% boost in addition to RAM.
If I had a hard upper cost limit, I would probably buy one generation back in CPU and model of laptop to allow a good GPU (4 GB min) and good RAM (16 GB min).
This is $1049 on Amazon and the included SSD is as important for speed as your CPU. 1060 with 6GB and 16 GB RAM. So much better.
I have 2 suggestions, a color tutorial and the lense used.
Here's a color grading/correction tutorial just for FCPX - This is #1 in a series of 15 or so video tutorials by a guy who normally charges but has uploaded them on Vimeo - https://vimeo.com/26362011. It's called "FCP X Color Grading Tutorial". It's pretty comprehensive.
I discovered recently how important color grading and correction is. I think this is the key to getting the crisp & vibrant looks you're after.
Well, that and my Prime lense, made the difference for me. I was using one of those zoomy 18-200mm lenses on my DSLR video camera. And the difference in sharpness and clarity I get when switching to a ~35mm Prime Lense (with low apertures) is huge - basically the difference between ordinary/amateur and sharp/awesome.
Hey everybody. The type of license I release my music under is a creative commons attribution license. Here's a link to the license itself:
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
Feel free to use my music for any projects you think might fit. The only thing I ask is that you link back to my soundcloud. I'm also up for composing music specifically for your project, so shoot me a message if you have any questions. I'd like to write music for films and video games some day. I write my music like it's for a film or a video game. Thanks for giving it a listen!
YES!!
you want VVV
VirtualVolumesView - that is exactly what it does and it does so well. Multiple drives external and internal pure cataloguing. Can be portable.
Premiere doesn't support MKV, and MP4 doesn't (strictly) support multichannel audio.
Simply renaming an MKV to MP4 does not make it an MP4, although it can 'trick' some software it will cause issues elsewhere.
Try Shutter Encoder, use the rewrap function set to .mov.
If all else fails, it also has an 'extract' function and various audio conversion options you could use to get your isolated audio out of there.
But you will be dealing with variable framerate out of OBS, so really you should be transcoding the video to constant framerate ProRes (ideally) or h.264 (if you don't have the room for the ProRes files!)
Datamoshing!
Here you go:
https://soundand.design/using-audacity-for-video-glitch-effects-9739e99351c0
(Shutter Encoder might work as an alternative to Prism File Converter if you don't have a mac.)
You could export only the edited audio and remux it to the original video. Remuxing does not encode the video again (it's not touched in any way, you do not lose quality due to compression). By not being reencoded it's also very fast.
MKVToolNix is a 10/10 tool for this kind of stuff, keep in mind that it will export in a .mkv container, not .mp4.
If you really need it in mp4, assuming you have the audio in a codec supported by mp4 (AAC, AC3, whatever), you can remux it again with avidemux from mkv to mp4 (again, no quality loss if you select codec: copy, aka no reencoding).
If you plan to upload to YouTube for example, mkv works fine, if you want to import that video in any editor it will throw you an error saying that it cannot import mkv.
I hope this helps you.
Overall I think you are trying to put out too much information. The prime objective of every video edit (for demo reels and educational video like this anyway) is: make it shorter. Don't speed through the content too fast though. That's the delicate balance you want to find: not so slow it's boring, not so fast it's frustrating to keep up.
Too many phones throughout the whole video, maybe just focus on the "game-changer" ones.
Almost every caption you have could be cut down by a few words if not more. Take out all the "the"s for starters. Make the statements short and sweet. Don't make your audience work. That is the key.
Nix the DYK boxes, when you have two areas of text on the screen at the same time, people have to split their attention and they get irritated that they can't keep up.
You also use simple fade transitions to go from one phone to the next. Mix it up. Zoom in a phone from the distance, have one slide in from off-screen. Don't use cheesy default transitions, animate your own. This is where I think you subconsciously notice you need to work on. Try to find every conceivable way for an object to appear on screen. Try to make every transition unique. Here's something for inspiration
Voice over is not a big a concern. Right now that's distracting you, it doesn't really matter one way or the other. Be able to make a video work with or without narration, with or without music. Even a silent video if done well will be worth watching.
Good luck.
Camera: Canon T2i, T3i, T4i ($300) Lens: 50mm f/1.8 ($100) Audio: Rode SmartLav for iPhone ($60)
You'll need to sync audio in post, but this will give you stellar quality on the cheaps. I made this video with a t2i/50mm lens: https://vimeo.com/59777345
Please state the licensing you're releasing these tracks with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Please post exactly the licensing you're using.
Need help? Understanding CC.
Searching 'wiggle stereoscopy' will get you pretty far for stills! There's not a lot of good stuff out there for video, but the same rules seem to apply. This NPR article was also pretty useful: https://www.npr.org/sections/pictureshow/2010/08/03/128951375/wiggle
u/GaMakhoul and u/dogthatbrokethezebra It's something I wanted to do in a long time and finally managed to make. It's a bash script (on linux) for ffmpeg. Here's the link if you want to check it out: https://hastebin.com/fetaducebu.bash
Not specific to just video editing, but pretty anything that involves files... I've got some macro keys that insert the current timestamp wherever my cursor is (virtually typed), e.g:
...use the last two a lot for filenames.
If you're on Windows you can do it with https://autohotkey.com/
I didn't think Handbrake supported encoding ProRes? Unless they added it and I didn't notice. Otherwise Shutter Encoder can do it!
ProRes is an intraframe codec, so it requires much higher bitrates to achieve the same visual quality as HEVC.
Try ProRes LT and see how that looks, but ideally 422 is going to be the better choice if you want to retain as much quality as possible.
ProRes Proxy will have quite a significant effect on the quality, though how much it matters will depend on how complicated your footage is in terms of motion and detail.
Adobe Media Encoder is not really suitable for this. iPhone files are variable framerate, and Media Encoder tends to choke on them!
So use Shutter Encoder instead.
If you're transcoding for the purposes of editing (and you've got plenty of HDD space, and your NLE supports it) then use Apple ProRes. The file sizes will be large, but there will be practically no loss in quality and they'll perform really well in your edit software.
Otherwise use the 'h.264' function with the following settings:
A CQ of 20 should result in very little loss of quality, but if it's still not good enough for you, try a value of 18 instead. The lower the value, the bigger the filesize will be.
I personally prefer putting a timecode in, usually about 30% from the top so that it partly covers interview subjects making it hard to crop out or cover up.
Shutter Encoder can do watermark and timecode burnin if you're after a tool - you could use both too!
Compressor's h.264 encoding engine is infamously bad, x264 in FFmpeg is generally regarded to be the best one out there especially when dealing with low bitrates - so stick with FFmpeg!
I've been doing a lot of encoding of webinars and have got this down to a bit of a science, though these days I'm going through Shutter Encoder rather than FFmpeg directly (Shutter is a front end for FFmpeg)
If you go through shutter, try the following settings:
Using those settings with slideshow/webcam type webinar content, you should be able to get extremely low bitrates while still maintaining resolution to read the slides.
The real trick is raising the GOP, that's the same trick Zoom and so on uses to get their very low bitrates. You don't need many I frames when you're dealing with very little motion and a slide change every minute or so.
You could do that through FFmpeg too, but doing 2-pass VBR through FFmpeg command line is a PITA! You'd have to script it through bash.
ProRes, DNxHR, or Cineform. Shutter Encoder supports all three.
You don't really want to be transcoding to interframe codecs like h.264/265 for footage you intend to edit straght away unless you have absolutely no other option.
They are not well suited to editing with. Not only will they take a mbuch longer time to transcode than intermediate codecs, but you'll usually have to use a proxy workflow which means even more transcoding (and used storage space) before you can work on your edit.
Blender http://www.blender.org/features/ has NLE functionality. I have used it a few times. The only thing that takes major effort is tittles/lower 3rds/etc.
If you aren't stuck on windows completely, http://www.openshot.org/ is FLOSS and kind of an iMovie clone.
Da Vinci Resolve by Blackmagic. There's a free version and it's good, unlike every free editor I've used.
Davinci Resolve 15 is free, has a better NLE than Vegas, and is one of the best color correction programs in the world. Check it out:
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/
I would need to see the video scopes to see if the footage is at all salvageable.
I like this question. Any cc site is good but there was a perfect site I used in college I forgot. The, "what transition is this?" and "what's the best software to use?" questions are wearing thin in this sub. It'd be nice to know what everyone uses. I use http://www.freesound.org/ for any sound effects.
Download Audacity.
Open Audacity.
Open camera on phone.
Press record on camera and Audacity (doesn't have to be at same time)
When both camera and Audacity are recording, and receiving signal, clap your hands together so that you can see it on the camera and hear it through the mic.
After you're done recording, import both audio file(s), and video file(s) into your video editor of choice.
Place files, and line them up on to separate tracks in the editor. Make sure you can see the audio waveform.
scrub through footage to find the moment that your hands are coming together for the clap.
On the audio track locate the peak where the hand clap took place. Line those spots together until you can scrub through and see good sync.
No profit
Any audio recording software will do. I just prefer Audacity
I have used Compressor (included in the Final Cut Suite: http://www.apple.com/finalcutpro/compressor/) and MPEG Stream Clip (http://www.squared5.com/) to compress videos and convert from native camera codecs to the codec I use for editing.
Both softwares work well, and MPEG SC is freeware and is much more streamlined/simple to use. I would recommend trying it out and using it to convert your videos to a more standard codec (avi, mov) that youtube will be more receptive to. You'll be able to preserve quality in the conversion (also, changing audio settings to AAC 48hz will reduce size without losing quality) and youtube might respond better to it.
Not sure if that'll solve your problem, but hope that helps!
Edit: vowels
I think your laptop is woefully under-powered for what you want to do. You meet the absolute minimum requirements for FCPX, but that doesn't mean it'll run well. That's a low-end laptop from six years ago. 8GB of RAM is recommended for editing, 16GB if you're getting heavy into it.
Maybe you could make FCPX work for you, but you'd have to rely heavily on its Proxy functionality.
BDMV files aren't video files – they contain information about a video file on a BluRay disc, but don't actually contain any video/audio data.
Presuming you've got all the files from a BluRay, the actual video files should be in the BDMV > STREAM directory, probably in .m2ts format.
VLC will be able to play them natively, Shutter Encoder can be used to convert them to another format if needed.
MP4 isn't a good choice for this though! Use the 'rewrap' function with 'filter/extension' set to .mkv or .mov. It will be really quick and won't affect the quality.
This is a specific issue with footage recorded by some screen recording applications - Xbox Game Bar and Razer Synapse both have this issue, there are probably more examples.
Basically they record a video at a higher resolution than you think they do, then use some flags in the file to tell the playback software to crop it down to the correct size.
Premiere/Media Encoder can't handle those flags correctly, so you end up seeing parts of the video you're not supposed to be able to. Since those parts don't contain any valid data, Premiere's codecs flip out and just show corruption.
To fix it, transcode your source files to ProRes or h.264 using Shutter Encoder then replace the footage in your project with the transcoded files. Once you export again, the problem should be resolved.
Your footage will also be variable framerate which can cause some issues, conveniently the solution to the resolution issue will also solve that problem.
If your SRT file has exactly the same name as the video file (excluding the file extension) and is in the same directory as the video file itself, most video players will detect it and make it available as a subtitle option.
If you want to package the SRT into the file, you can use Shutter Encoder. You've got two options there:
Use the 'rewrap' function, set the 'filter' to .mp4 or .mkv, and under 'advanced features' click 'add subtitles.' This will embedd the subtitles as closed captions into the file so they can be toggled on and off...
...or use any video transcode function (for example h.264) and under 'overlay' click 'add subtitles.' This will burn the subtitles into the video as open captions meaning they're part of the actual image itself and can't be turned off.
I think the free version will do what you want to do, just look for a tutorial online.
You've got the right idea, you'll be layering video. To make it move around you'll animate it using keyframes, basically points on a timeline that you use to tell the effect to do something over time. Again a tutorial will make it easier to understand.
Yup. I'd grab Handbrake, load the file, compress it in h.264, as slow as I can tolerate, at RF20 or so. Should knock a good bit off that filesize without too much quality degradation
You can't upgrade a 2015 Macbook Pro I'm afraid - all of the RAM, SSD and GPU elements are directly soldered to the motherboard. I would suggest looking into a proxy editing workflow, where you transcode your footage from its original format to an editing friendly codec such as ProRes or DnXHD. The best upgrade you can buy is to get an external SSD to fit all of your footage on, then you can edit directly from this drive. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T5-Portable-SSD-MU-PA1T0B/dp/B073H552FJ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=t5+ssd&qid=1554068948&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Ffmpeg is a command line tool that can do this no problem, however it is a bit complicated.
Here's some instructions to do what you want: http://superuser.com/questions/377343/cut-part-from-video-file-from-start-position-to-end-position-with-ffmpeg
Lead mod here.
We recommend content creators state the licensing you're releasing these with.
If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
You can say "they're in the public domain" - but by having a CC licensing, you're adding some legitimacy.
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Wizard to determine your CC license
Last, you might consider something other than YouTube - it's pretty heavily compressed there - maybe gdrive or dropbox.
Probably not. These are video editing tools, they don't really have APIs, except for some I/O stuff, and they're not really well suited to animation either.
You're probably better off looking at something like Blender or maybe After Effects.
Hey there. I've used a similar kind of effect in AE. It's a good starting point. You can manipulate and change some of the parameters.
Card Wipe - found in Animation Presets. I also added a " forced motion blur " effect as well.
http://i.imgur.com/CDIbj8t.jpg?1
Here is a video example that I rendered:
I used to use VSDC a long, long time ago, and I don't think I would recommend it. There are so many other, better video editing programs for free.
Black Magic's DaVinci Resolve is a great one. For almost everything you'd be doing, it will work great and not have any watermarks. It is a paid program, but the free version has everything you need and then some. It was originally designed for color grading but it has some nice editing tools and an easy interface to learn. I haven't messed with it much personally, but I have heard nothing but great things about it from many, many people.
Another, although a little quirky at times, would be FXHome's HitFilm Express. I use this most of the time, since it's inspired by Adobe Premiere and is pretty similar in design. It takes some getting used to but it has lots of potential for editing, sound, effects, and more. It comes with a good range of effects and filters to play around with, too. HitFilm Express is the free version of HitFilm Pro and you can buy add-ons for it or upgrade if you so choose later on.
I hope these point you in the right direction. VSDC isn't a terrible option, but I'd highly recommend picking one a little better.
I use QuickTime. It's fine, but very limited. If you need a free alternative, try out OBS ~> (https://obsproject.com). If you can afford it, definitely pick up Wirecast ~> (https://obsproject.com).
Pretty much buying a mac right now is a mistake. - because they're all overdue for updates.
> Is switching from a Mac flow to a PC flow for editing (in Premier and AfterEffects) a significant change?
Once inside the software it's a zero difference. On the font front - likely she'll use Adobe's Typekit - which are all identically named/setup fonts. Not an issue. (FWIW, I've worked with loads of editing departments and never had a font issue.)
> How seamless is the process for using harddrives/SD cards etc while working on both Mac and PC?
You either reformat to exFAT or you think about a utility like MacDrive that reads all the mac formats.
> How feasible is a hackintosh?
Dicey. Would I build one for fun? Yes.
But for pro? Every OS update is fraught with peril. If something doesn't work, is it the hackintosh? Or the other software.
If you're going to go down this route, please, Go to Tonymaxx86 which is the resource. And /r/hackinto
You can do what these guys said by manually designing keyframes, but you can pull keyframes from an audio source as described here and apply them to whatever value you were keyframing so you don't have to do it manually.
I did a similar thing here: http://www.youtube.com/sgxmusic#p/a/u/0/AsduQsKpbMk
> Acquired with DJI Osmo Pocket and DJI Mavic Mini
DJI cameras sometimes output a particuarly weird form of variable framerate.
And all of the issues you're describing can be caused by VFR media in a timeline... so fingers crossed it's that simple!
Try transcoding your clips using the ProRes function in Shutter Encoder before importing into Premiere.
(If ProRes doesn't import, try the Cineform function instead - can't remember if 2018 supports ProRes on Windows!)
Edit: All videos are licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International. Which means that you can use them for all type of projects also commercial, as long as you give credit. Full license here: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ Yes, as soon as I have finished it (today or tomorrow).
I would go with a cheap time lapse cam, which you can program and leave somewhere for an extended period of time. I use the Wingscapes cameras (the old version here works better than the new version, but both work) at a remote site in the arctic year-round and they hold up pretty well. Not super expensive, and you won't have the absurd amount of data you're talking about here. Usually a year of pictures captured during peak light hours turns into a 2-minute video by the time things are said and done with. If you're on a mac, check out the TimeLapse Assembler for putting everything together at the end.
Why should I hate you for that? It's an old, loud, hot rackmount server. For personal use I'd rather be editing on an ordinary desktop. It's quieter, it needs less cooling, it will use less electricity, and I don't have to pay through the nose for SAS drives or ECC RAM. If I wanted to do that I could have thrown Windows on my Gen8 MicroServer and gone to town with that, but I don't think my hobby needs that kind of investment.
I mean, hell, 8GB of RAM for that thing, alone, is $300. Hell, I've built whole computers for that amount of money, but if we're talking about performance that could get yourself 32GB of non-ECC RAM, or a GTX 780, or an R9 290X.
You're bragging about editing on a server that's six years old. There's a reason they sold for less than $200 together. You're welcome to use it for editing, it's your money and it's your time, but you're trying to impress me with a computer that's less powerful than my budget PC.
If you are using Windows Movies's & Tv you might experience that issue. VLC is a free open source alternative that vastly outperforms Movies & Tv in format support and playback performance: https://www.videolan.org/vlc/
I built a video editing rig around this time last year. Anyhow, here's the thing:
Max out the RAM. I don't know why everyone seems to skimp on RAM but don't skimp. NO MATTER WHAT!
You'll need another EVO for a scratch drive. At least 256GB. The GTX 660 is ok. It can handle both CUDA and OpenCL very well. You'll be able to timeline render live with it at 1/2 res for HD footage. In fact it's the same one I have in my build.
600W is a little low. I'd get a 750 or 800 for safeties sake. Especially if you plan on adding more SSD's for a RAID array down the road.
AMD-FX 8320 is okay. I believe it's missing AVX 2.0 instruction set, which most NLE's like Adobe Premiere use for certain tasks.
Here's a link to my build last year. http://www.tonymacx86.com/user-builds/126836-success-xeon-e3-1230v3-ga-h87m-d3h-mavericks.html
There's no free probe, and you'll need one.
https://displaycal.net/ is the free alternative to software like Calman, however there is a serious learning curve.
Many colorists will tell you it's not ideal to calibrate a gui display, and that you'll need a proper raw out signal through a device like a black magic ultrastudio mini monitor. However, if you are fastidious and aren't actually sending work to broadcast, you can probably get close enough.
Frankly, I got so frustrated trying to calibrate on my own that I simply bought a Flanders display which can be sent in to be calibrated for just the price of shipping.
You're running out of RAM and your system is Paging ram to your SSD. Definitely free up some space - Grand Perspective will let you see what is taking up so much space (or let you delete the largest stuff first.)
Not sure what your tolerance is for technical tinkering but youtube-dl is the best I've used and also support a lot of other sites as well as youtube.
By default it will automatically download the highest quality it can find.
youtube-dl <youtube url>
It has a huge amount of options that you can learn as you go too.
Quite a number of things are done in After Effects.
At the next level is something like Toon Boon Harmony.
Southpark is done on Maya - overkill, except they're able to do episodic tv in about 6 days.
Thumbnails aren't created in video editing, they are images created afterward in photo editing software and then when you upload your video you can select to upload the thumbnail as well.
Take a screenshot (or better yet export a still if possible) of the frame you want. If you want to do anything else to it get some photo editing software (GIMP is the closest you can get to Photoshop for free) and use that.
Found it! Disclaimer, I have not used this program but I saved the link because it looked useful. You can choose from several different phones as your 'frame'. It's not free either, but I've heard good things about this app from video professionals.
I think you are looking for something like MPEG Streamclip. This is a very flexible and powerful video converter. It allows you to convert pretty much between any video formats and set the file size and quality. It also has the option to batch convert videos.
I hope this helps!
If you just want to convert the files without editing, you can use MPEG Streamclip. It's the best freeware video converter I know.
If you want to do some editing, you might want to convert the files to a production format like Apple ProRes for example. H.264 is a delivery codec that does not work well for editing. You can export your final movie in H.264 after editing.
Premiere Pro has export presets for YouTube. Anyways, export settings set to 1920x1080, progressive, 24fps and a target bitrate of 10.000 should give you fine results.
If you are unsure how your export results will be, just select a 10 sec segment of your movie and export just this. It will only take a few seconds and you can play around with the export settings in Premiere Pro.
Remember that .mov and .mp4 are just the containers of your movies. Both .mov and .mp4 can be H.264.
I hope this helps.
1) Skip iMovie. Obtain Final Cut. You're on the internet, make it happen.
2) Hit youtube, us editors love making videos of how to edit. There's seriously a video tutorial on how to technically execute pretty much any editing task you could imagine.
3) Use pwnyoutube for downloading tons of video footage to dick around with.
4) Be excellent to each other.
It's an MPEG4/h264 file in a program stream
Handbrake isn't the end all/be all. It does a great job, but not every job.
This is a job for ffmpeg. If your'e willing to pay try FFWorks which should handle it. I have the older version (iFFMPEG). If you want to post a sample (via DM) I can test and see if it works.
If you choose to go down the ffmpeg route, once installed, this will help you write the command line to convert it.
That would be a large amount of tracking and parenting. There are a lot of tutorials on both of those processes on YouTube. Specifically tutorials of how to do this using Hitfilm
That's a free program made by good people, all they ask is some recognition but you'll get to that with that link.
First off if your laptop has an Nvidia GPU, make sure you're running the 'studio' drivers.
Also if it's a laptop with switchable GPUs (i.e. has an intel iGPU + a discrete GPU) go into your GPU driver settings and ensure than Premiere gets to use the discrete GPU.
Other than that, what is the source for the videos that are misbehaving? This sounds a bit like a variable framerate related issue, in which case you'll need to transcode your footage to CFR using something like Shutter Encoder before import to Premiere.
You can load .ass ^(heh) files into VideoPad, but you'll probably have to extract them from the file first. Shutter Encoder's 'extract' function should pull the subtitles out of the video file.
You may also need to convert the subs from SRT to ASS 'case it doesn't look like videopad can load srt. Subtitle edit can do it.
This is presuming that your source video doesn't have graphics-based soft subs, in which case you're probably better off finding an ASS file from somewhere online - unless you want to do OCR and loads of spellchecking...
> x265 (NVENC)
That's a contradiction, x265 is a software codec, NVENC is a hardware codec ;-)
x265 will get you the best results at lower bitrates, but will be a lot slower!
I'd expect that with x265 you could go down as low as 2-5mbps without significant quality loss, but with NVENC you may find yourself needing to add a few mb to achieve the same quality.
HEVC doesn't support interlacing, so you'll need to ensure you've got deinterlacing configured in the filters page.
I'm not fond of how Handbrake handles deinterlacing in a user-interface sense... it doesn't really communicate what algorithm is being used or leave much room for configuration. You might want to try Shutter Encoder instead as that gives you more control. Try Yadif 2x - that'll give you 50 or 60fps depending if your source is PAL or NTSC respectively.
(Handbrake can also do Yadif 2x but you have to use weird custom flags and configurations to make it work, with Shutter you just check a button and select it!)
Optimized media is the proxy function, and yup that's what you need to do.
Especially on the free version of Resolve, as it doesn't support hardware decoding of h.264/HEVC. Upgrading to the Studio version will get you better performance, providing you have supported hardware.
However with stream recordings, you're dealing with variable framerate media which can also cause major performance issues in professional applications - so you may end up needing to transcode your files outright anyway!
Just a thought, try running a section of video through Shutter Encoder with the following settings and see how fast it is to convert and how well it performs:
That should create an ALL-I h.264 file using fast hardware encoding. It'll fix the VFR issue, and should perform nicely in Resolve. The filesize will be very large though!
You can do this using Subtitle Edit in combination with Resolve.
What's the end use for these subtitles? If you're trying to create an actual image based subtile format like .sup, Subtitle Edit can probably create it directly without going through Resolve.
With Shutter Encoder...
Use the 'Rewrap' function, with 'filter/extension' set to .mp4.
Under 'Audio settings' click 'Convert' and set it to AAC.
The video will be unchanged in the resulting file.
Export as ProRes 4444 (with 'include alpha channel' enabled).
Use Shutter Encoder to transcode that file to VP9 WebM. Under 'advanced features' ensure that 'enable alpha channel' is checked.
GFE shoots variable framerate footage using the NVENC h.264 codec. That codec does require a higher bitrate to maintain good quality, so your recording settings are more-or-less correct.
Given their VFR nature, transcoding them to CFR is pretty much a necessity if the ultimate use for these video clips is to be edited in a video editing package, otherwise weird things can and will happen!
So if you want them smaller with minimum quality loss, that would mean using a higher quality (non-GPU accelerated) codec that handles lower bitrates better.
I think a combination of Lossless Cut and Shutter Encoder will serve you best here.
First use Lossless Cut to trim down the videos to the size you want, then pass the resulting files into Shutter with the following settings:
This is constant quality encoding, and will use whatever bitrate is required to maintain the desired CQ value. Lower values = Higher quality, larger filesize, longer transcode.
20 is generally going to get you a fairly high quality result with a reasonable filesize, so I'd suggest you try that first to see if it works for your footage.
18 is generally considered 'visually lossless' with h.264, so may be worth trying too as I'd bet you still end up with something lower than 50mbps. 24 is the default value for the x264 encoder, and gets a good balance between filesize and quality.
This will also solve the variable framerate issue - you don't need to change any settings for your videos to be converted to constant framerate, Shutter does that automatically.
Can't speak for that software in particular but that seems like typical video editing software behaviour when the codec of the video isn't supported.
Movavi notably don't support HEVC/h.265
And if those .mov files are off a modern IOS device like an iPhone or iPad they probably are HEVC.
So if that's the case you'll need to transcode the files to h.264 using something like Shutter Encoder before you can import them.
And if you are using an IOS device, there's an option it the properties for the camera app that you can set to 'more compatible' to record h.264 rather than HEVC.
Eh, it's not great - clearly shot on old analogue tape cameras so there's probably not even a higher quality version knocking around somewhere on an archive!
However you could try some colour correction and sharpening.
You could have a crack at it yourself using Shutter Encoder. Under the 'colorimetry' tab, click 'image adjust' and you'll be able to mess with the colour and sharpening.
(Shutter also has a 'web video' download feature that will get the highest quality possible off of YouTube - just paste the link in and hit go)
It does however appear there was a DVD release of that concert. If you can track that down I bet it would have at least slightly better quality than YouTube and the audio quality should be a lot better too.
It might even be 50i/60i, in which case you could use doubler deinterlacing to get a 50fps/60fps version of the concert created.
Could be different audio frequency, the iPhone records 41.1khz and most professional audio recording equipment will record at 48khz.
Could also be differences in internal clocks too. No two electronic devices will have perfectly $ynchronized internal clocks (unless you use an external clock), so there will always be a bit of dr!ft.
You'll have to find the difference in percent between two points in both recordings, then use audio software like Audacity to timestretch the mic audio the required amount.
Software like Pluraleyes can sort out the dr!ft for you if you give it the camera and the external audio.
iPhones also record variable framerate which can cause issues with audio $ync. Use software like Shutter Encoder or Handbrake to transcode to a constant framerate.
Lightworks has a free version and AVID wants to release a free version of Media Composer later this year, called Media Composer | First.
lajmrj2 has a great list. I'd like to share that there is a free editing software for PC, Mac, and Linux, called Lightworks. I haven't tried it myself, but it has been used to edit several famous feature films and seems to be fairly robust for free software. Just something that might help you learn the basics and offset the cost of professional editing software.
This artifact is called combing, and it's related to how you play the video back. You can help this issue by re-encoding the video with a deinterlacing filter.
What are you trying to do with this video? I would download Avidemux, open your video in it, and then on the left, where it says Video: copy, select Video: MPEG-4 AVC. Then click "Filters", Deinterlace, and try one of the deinterlacing filters you see. Save your video out, and check its quality now. Try a few filters until you see one that looks a lot better. (Unless someone else has suggestions on the best interlacing filters? I would try yadif and DG bob first.)
If you can upload this video clip to http://dropcanvas.com/, I can try out different filters for you and let you know how to fix it.
You tried DaVinci Resolve?
There is also Lightworks, which only allows 720p export on the free version, paid is $24/year. So not what you are looking for.
I have not used either product, but anyone care to comment on them?
Apparently AviDemux is pretty decent.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avidemux (free / open source)
But if serious, then what about DaVinci Resolve? It may be a better long-run investment of your time:
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve (free/freemium)
If you download from the official site there should not be any malware, same as any piece of free software. You can get source code and compile it yourself as an option as well (though imagine this is difficult for most casuals). Open source software is good stuff.
http://www.openshot.org/download/
I haven't used openshot in many years though. Kdenlive was more my jam. https://kdenlive.org/features/
You can download Handbrake and rip the video through that, which will get you half way there.
Once you've done that open VLC Player press file and then Convert/Save, Press Add and then find the video that has the audio you want to have, press Open and then select Convert/Save again.
Where it says Profile just select Audio - MP3, then give it a new name and destination and it should fire it out okay for you!
Hope this helps
Want a surprise?
h.265 is the latest iteration (improving on h.264). It can save 30-40% of the file size compared to h.264.
Yes, the wrapper is mp4.
FFMPEG was the command line utility, and Handbrake uses it underneath the hood.
All this being said, I'd probably suggest h.264 instead - faster compression, lower encode/decode time; probably easier to work with.
For screen recording I use OBS which is open source, runs smoothly and is easy to set up recording rather than live streaming. All other screen recorders I have found do not record the full desktop but only the program selected, or run very slowly. For editing software, there is a version of Sony Vegas which is good for learning with and quite cheap compared to the pro version or premiere etc.
>Now once the DCP files are created, I was reading you can copy this file to an NTFS drive ( as long as the dcp folder is on the root of the drive). Since I will be editing this project on a mac, I was thinking of just copying the file onto one of the PCs on our network so we can write to NTFS format. Is this the way to go?
Sounds like the way to go to me!
>Do I have to worry about writing to a Linux ext2/ext3 drive?
Haven't a clue. Do exhibitors require EXT drives?
>I don't have access to a Linux machine and I'd rather not drop money on a program that might not work.
Actually, you can do that all for free. You can download a virtualization program, like VirtualBox, install a Linux distribution in it (Ubuntu is fairly easy to use if you haven't used Linux before). Then you just use a shared folder in VBox and pass through a USB drive to Linux, and go nuts.
I'd really recommend crossposting to /r/editors, the professional editors' subreddit.
Cloud based storage is fine for glacial speed backup (hence amazon glacier) but even with an amazing connection, it just takes too much time.
Go with a RAID 5 that's not drobo.
I have two suggestions for the list:
It's a super low cost option for managing your email accounts and documents. (you mentioned docs but this encapsulates all that!)
It's all in the cloud so you can access your emails and files anywhere, it's really useful for hosting all your files (for something like £2.50 p/m you get 30GB cloud storage)
I store all my logos, documents, passwords (encrypted) - this includes sales docs, project file templates that I might need somewhere else at some point - branded documents of all sorts.
Couldn't live without it, it's become essential to my day-to-day. There's nothing better than not having to open Microsoft Word, simply head to Google Drive and add a new doc - you never even have to save the file as it saves after every key stoke you make.
Did I mention that it can also sync bloody everything to your computer for offline access?
Oh, and it allows you to add a free 'catch all' to you email domain e.g etc....
Also, several people can all work on the same documents at the same time. There are so many uses and these are the first that came to my head.
A really simple cloud based instant messaging system for businesses.
If you work with someone else day-to-day, you're probably either emailing them/texting/calling all the time. Slack allows you to make different 'channels' for different topics and quickly message who you are working with about that particular subject.
It's COMPLETELY FREE and it saves so much time - honestly, it's really good.
Available in browser and as an app.
Hope that helps.
EDIT: added links / clarification
PNGs are lossless, so it doesn't get any better than what you're doing. That's how I extract frames myself. I used to output to BMPs because I was worried about loss of quality until I researched PNGs more. It's confusing because some programs have an option for PNG compression amount.
This site explains what PNG "compression" actually is:
> PNG is lossless. GIMP is most likely not using the best choice of wording in this case.
>Think of it as quality of compression or level of compression. With lower compression, you get a bigger file, but it takes less time to produce, whereas with higher compression, you get a smaller file that takes longer to produce.
Please state the licensing you're releasing these tracks with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Please post exactly the licensing you're using.
Need help? Understanding CC.
Please state the licensing you're releasing these tracks with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Please post exactly the licensing you're using.
Need help? Understanding CC.
Wizard to determine your CC license
We need a declaration (on your website maybe too?) for people to use these without fear of copyright strikes
Please state the licensing you're releasing these tracks with. If you're unsure of what to do, search this subreddit for Creative Commons. Pros (or even semi pros) can't use your work without clear licensing information.
Please post exactly the licensing you're using.
Need help? Understanding CC.
You can do it with the mobile app Prisma, but it involves converting the video to still shots and processing each frame. There is also a mobile app called Artisto
Your CPU is no faster than an i7 6700, and that's a bottleneck for editing 4K footage natively. If you keep the current setup, I would consider transcoding your footage to Cineform proxies when you import the content to your project. This will speed up your editing significantly, and will improve performance more than any of the three options you've currently considered.
A GPU upgrade might help, depending on what GPU-accelerated effects you intend to use (and in that case, I generally recommend an nVidia GPU with as much VRAM as you can afford).
Vimeo has a large library of Creative Commons licensed clips. A lot of them you can download, edit, and remix and they often only require attribution to the original shooter.