I found that: http://hackaday.com/2013/03/12/hinged-nes-case-hides-an-integrated-lcd-screen/
Edit: and this with some Information on costs: http://www.cnet.com/news/nes-modded-with-a-built-in-screen/
On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JYW96Q2
I wanted the CRT effect but didn't really want to find a 100lb monstrosity sitting on my office desk (I already have the Trinitron for the consoles). It's not perfect and of course isn't the same as a real CRT, but it really looks pretty good for the $30 it cost, and best of all processes the entire image so I don't have to try to run filters for the games themselves. It really looks pretty solid, all things considered.
Masters of Doom: How Two Guys Created an Empire and Transformed Pop Culture https://www.amazon.com/dp/0812972155/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BisuCbWTTJ6X5
I don’t read much physical paper books but I read this over the course of 2 days.
If you have any interest in these guys or Doom or computer games from that era I highly recommend this book.
Hey there!
I had this problem too. The answer was to use the Official SD Card Formatter to format the SD card, then add your roms in the correct folder.
These actually used a form of emulation. There's actually a modified NES rom of Legend of Zelda embedded in there. The emulator itself has a ton of safeguards built around it, to make it difficult to run the game in a GBA emulator, as well as to make it difficult to replace the Zelda ROM with another ROM.
All that being said, the Classic NES Series works as an interesting set of tests for and GBA emulators out there.
I admit that I'm pretty merciless about hitting the misnamed "Prohibited" button on posts that are repeated within a 48-hour period, given they're actually against the rules.
I read the article and agreed with what Chris Kohler had said.
With these rom sites going away, I am not worried.
I was able to get all the roms i wanted in 1996 with dial up internet and later with broadband.
I also grabbed lots of isos as well, there will always be rom sites that carry these games, you just have to know where to look and grab everything you can before they all go down
I do wish these companies would pull a GOG.com and digitally sell their roms piece by piece for a good price 1 to 5 dollars a piece, no more.
Not everyone needs the entire library or atari, sega, nitnendo etc, games.
This software should work just in the config select parallel port.You also need some kind of port io driver for xp if memory serves me right. https://mega.nz/#!ZhtBVTAB!AEih11o_p_0-XIVUAcAZoAOlrYNr2s0X2Q4kYsn0F9M
Also theres uCON64 which is a command line program for flashing, needs some setting up.
I'm surprised the cart and cable came together, figured they would of got separated at good will.
They are actually desktop icons for emulators that someone created. http://www.iconarchive.com/show/antiseptic-videogame-icons-by-starvingartist.html
Edit: okay that's incorrect but it reminded me of them.
Looks like a yes!
> Primarily the Video CD Card is used by Saturn enthusiasts to upgrade the quality of in-game movies
But not many games, it required extra space on the disc to hold both video formats or some decided to make a separate disc entirely.
Found an Amazon review for Lunar Silver Star Story MPEG Edition, the one game which required the card to run. The review simply states that the PC version looks much better, so get that instead if your aim is quality.
The best is the original nintendo cable. Get it off of ebay, it will likely have to be imported from Japan. The second best is hand made, you used to be able to get nice ones from an ebay seller based in Sweden named"gamesnow," but he no longer sells them. Personally, I have cheap ones off amazon that work just fine. I was in the same situation as you; I was apprehensive buying them, because I did not see any reviews of them from retro gaming specific sites, but at 6 dollars and two day shipping, it was worth a go. Perfect video, no checkerboarding. The golden rule is to absolutely not buy ones that have composite attached to them as well. Many of these are not even wired correctly, and if they are, the composite will do nothing for you beyond cause interference.
Well the device is literally an emulator that runs SNES9X Next, GenPlus and a couple other freely available emulators. The device has cart slots which dump the rom from your game in order to play. If you want a better experience for less money here is what I'd do:
(1) Get a raspberry pi and 16/32gb SD card, make a mini emulation computer
http://www.cnet.com/how-to/create-a-retro-game-console-with-the-raspberry-pi/
(2) Purchase RetroPort adapters for the consoles you want to use
http://www.retrousb.com/index.php?cPath=21
(3) Purchase controllers for the consoles you want to use
Now you have an emulation station, with the latest emulators. All without infringing on the GPL of the respective emulators :DDD
If you aren't concerned with original controllers or HDMI but want something seperate, you could get a Wii and a Component Cable. Softmod the wii with emluators and put your roms on an SD card.
>I once read about some Memmory Mapping chip in some games .. what's it doing?
http://bgb.bircd.org/pandocs.htm#memorybankcontrollers
I would just add that, if you don't have a solid background in electrical engineering (it's hard to gauge from your post), designing a flash cartridge would be a pretty daunting task. The people that do this typically have years of experience, including deep knowledge of the console they're making the cartridge for.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free-ship10pcs-lot-CR1616-battery-holder-patch-battery-holder-3V-button-batteries-environmental-seat/32217904991.html This is where I got mine. Says they are unavailable but keep on the lookout on that site in general. These are the only CR1616 battery holders slim and low profile enough for Game Boy carts. I use in combination w/ Mega Memory Card to immortalize saves. I haven't been able to find a CR2025 holder yet though, for the Pokemon games, so I get them pre-tabbed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9MK745/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The one thing you need to change on your Switch is to enable "Wired Pro Controller".
Wavebird is the absolute best when it comes to wireless Gamecube controllers. The 3rd party controllers don’t last. Don’t overlook modern rechargeable batteries. Been using these for years without problems.
Link: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/
I use the AA and AAA for everything. Makes the Gameboy DMG affordable. Their C and D converters probably saved me a fortune on kids toys.
I’m not married to the brand so find some that you like. Just remember AA / AAA, etc... are common standards. Something like a custom rechargeable pack wont be useful to you when you don’t need it anymore.
For those wondering, it's an Agetec ASCII Grip They're pretty cheap on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Agetec-ASCII-Grip/dp/B00001ZUW8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513629899&sr=8-1&keywords=Agetec+ASCII+Grip
Etekcity 10 Pack Power Extension Cord Cable, 16AWG-13A, 3 Prong Grounded, UL Listed (Black, 1-Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JeFkCbNH96X7E
Getting an all in one made the most sense to me but these adapters make life so much easier. Never worry about fitting adapters again.
Run those through a simple power switch like
Technical Pro PS9U Rack Mount Power Supply with 5V USB Charging Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057RL6DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MjFkCbE8H59FA
Do this with every retro Console. Old plugs are vampires that will sit there bleeding excess energy as heat. Ever touch your Sega bricks on powered off consoles? Still warm. They suck juice all day if left to their own devices. You can juice your whole setup with one switch or break it down system to system. Using smart plugs paired with an Amazon echo makes for some star trek fun of turning on your setup with verbal commands.
The above is a simple example. You can upgrade that a step further and run your technical pro switch through a power conditioner. And use that as a master shutdown.
Being able to tightly control power on a multi system hookup is vital. You'll save wear on your systems and not run your power bill up. Plus it's fun!
Nintendo says it's "ness" according to the warioware 3ds game: https://lifehacker.com/nes-isnt-pronounced-n-e-s-1828130155 , but i'm still in the N.E.S. camp.
​
Happy to help.
In the realm of dystopian sci-fi in the classics, Infocom's A Mind Forever Voyaging is widely considered one of the greatest pieces of sci-fi writing ever achieved in interactive fiction. I've never played it myself, so I can't speak to it personally, but I've heard that it's pretty great if it rubs you right. I think that I've also heard that it can be really, really hard in spots.
Aside from that, I'm sure that there's a ton of more modern (probably more 'playable') IF pieces that fit your genre better, but I can't be much help there I'm afraid. My previous suggestion of "look for things that sound like they have a story that interests you" is about the best that I can do for more modern stuff :)
Great haul! If you're looking to play Doom and Hexen II on a modern Windows 10 machine, I recommend using a source port, as it'll let you play them with some more modern conveniences (while still preserving the gameplay...unless you wanna mod them out from there):
Doom - GZDoom
Hexen II - Hammer of Thyrion
Thanks! Here are the shelves. I mounted them using these command strips.
Or leave it white and get some colour changing backlights.
Also, I don't know what games you wanted on it, but check this one out. It's the best multicart I've ever found.
Lol, Red Alert 2 came out 2000 and isn't a DOS game, firstly you will need to buy a digital copy as Red Alert 2 isn't freeware Origin has the Command & Conquer The Ultimate Collection for 19.99$, too get it working use https://pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer:_Red_Alert_2 the important steps are, Game does not start (Origin), Black screen with switchable graphics and Lag/low FPS, this will fix the game on win 7/8.1/10 perfectly
I like the way you think because I was thinking about this last night and came up with pretty much the same solutions :)
If you are interested in downloading the source and making customizations I uploaded the code here: https://sourceforge.net/p/ninnyromlauncher2/code/HEAD/tree/
Here’s the link to the ones I get from Amazon: Sega CD / Sega Saturn replacement game cases 10 pack SECOND RUN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBMRQJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AH7QFAVZ6N9PCK166Y4X
Yeah, TVs definitely dont have that anymore. Lol you can get a little adapter that converts it to an RF jack. They cost like 3 or 4 bucks. I've posted a link to one on Amazon. Or if you have a local retro game store you can go to they usually have them.
Atari 2600 RF TV Coaxial F Plug Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028MXOF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g4m4BbXQ2Q7ED
Here's the retrotink
Here's the ossc
https://www.amazon.com/Source-Converter-SCART-Component-Gaming/dp/B07QF95QP3
Basically the idea is that modern flat panel TVs don't know how to properly interpret the signals these consoles are putting out. These devices allow you to plug the consoles in, and they handle the signal processing to output something the TV won't have to try to convert; usually 480p, 720p, or 1080p.
The xrgb mini is like the granddaddy of scalers with tons of hardcore user features. The retrotink & ossc are much more affordable and easier to use.
That's awesome, but I wish it were a playable smartwatch game. That would be so awesome and pointless, playing one of these LucasArts-style point-and-clicks on your watch. Something that complex is probably impossible for now. Well, at least there's a roguelike... :P
That's an awesome find! I wonder where this guy is now.
Edit: Found a bit more info on him on this site : http://www.mobygames.com/developer/sheet/view/developerId,43177/
Seems like the last game he worked on (according to the source) is madden NFL 25 as a Senior Environment Modeler in 2013.
I'm not too sure but I think Omikron would fit. It came out in the late 90's and required a decent PC at the time. It's primarily a third person adventure with some pretty clunky controls, but it also has moments of a FPS and fighting. I played it when it came out on Dreamcast and I'm replaying it now on PC.
I worked at Sierra in the late 90s, which was pretty fun. Strangely, their two most profitable games at the time were Trophy Bass and Golf. Trophy Bass was more like a super-realistic fishing simulator than a game. It was the product of meticulous research on fish behavior, water temperature, depth, flow rate, lighting, time of year, time of day, etc, etc. It was heavy on nature sounds. So was golf, come to think of it. You would hear birds chirping, sprinklers running, wind in the trees, and the occasional airplane flying by.
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/origins-history-mario-geek-history-lessons/ According to this, Mario was the landlord of the warehouse of Nintendo of America. After Doneky Kong was released, they kept calling "Jumpman" Mario. Usually, it is the landlords job to make sure the site is free of pests. Their next game was Mario Bros, where Mario gets rid of pests.
Archive.org is legit and they have what's called "Console Livingroom." It does include Astrocade.
https://archive.org/details/bally_astrocade_library
The trick is to turn the difficulty up to 9.
Yes, that's the sync strike. The reason for that is that the capture card takes VGA in, which requires two separate sync signals, horizontal and vertical sync. Your game console will output them combined into composite sync (CSync), or sometimes it won't even have a separate sync signal at all and you have to use composite video as your sync source. What the sync strike does is takes composite sync or composite video and separates it into horizontal and vertical sync. It's only necessary for RGB (which is why it has a SCART input, so you'll need a SCART RGB cable rather than separate cables like BNC), if you're using component video you can just plug it in directly to the capture card.
As far as streaming goes, I use Open Broadcaster Software for recording, and it also supports direct streaming to twitch.
If you are using this primarily for emulation, I would NOT purchase the Intel Stick for a couple reasons.
The only reason I would recommend this Intel Stick was if the user was absolutely averse to Linux - and needed a small form factor Windows based solution instead.
If you are wanting a dedicated emulation machine, I would recommend the either the Raspberry Pi 2 or the ODroid C1.
If you have the skills to compile applications in a Linux environment, I would lean towards the Odroid C1; it's a stronger system than the Raspberry Pi 2, but it would require recompiling some of the popular emulation packages (RetroArch, EmulationStation, etc).
If you just want something that will work pretty well with minimal effort, go with the Raspberry Pi 2, as it has a pretty deep community surrounding it.
I haven't looked at the Google cache, but there's an entry for the company (with address and phone number) on Manta here, and the Wayback Machine has several backups of the company's website from 2001 to 2014 here. The latter could be useful if they posted additional contact information at some point further in the past.
And as a side-remark, I notice from the most recent page archived on the Wayback Machine that the company's slogan was/is "Playing Harder Since 1979". This reinforces my suspicion that they would have been more involved with FRED's development than merely designing the power supply -- and I think that might also suggest a release date for the console (by the looks of it, 1979 seems about right).
Check out Manos: Hands of Fate on Steam. It does a decent job emulating that LJN on NES style of gameplay AND crazily-loose adaptation of a horror film. https://store.steampowered.com/app/350780/MANOS/
I don't know this game, but yes, if a came came out for both DOS and Windows (and Google tells me Montezuma's Return did indeed have versions for both operating systems) then they are completely separate entities.
In console terms, the difference between a Windows release and a DOS release is the same as the difference between a PlayStation and an Xbox release. They may look similar, play similar, but they won't run on the same systems.
Anyway, since I Googled on this one of the threads I came upon may have exactly what you're looking for. There's apparently a version of this game called 1.29w which has been modified to run under Windows 7. Have a look at this thread on Abandonia:
I would recommend Kega for Sega SG1000, SC3000, SF7000, Master System, Game Gear, and Genesis/32X/CD emulation, it even plays Pico games. :)
It's pretty much perfect.
Other than that, you'll need your game ISOs and a rom of the Sega-CD bios, but that's pretty easy to find.
I've never run across a game it can't play.
I've read several reviews that made me wonder about it, like this one here and this other one over here.
How have your experiences been so far?
To clean the pins inside the console, you can take it apart and use a credit card, cloth, and some cleaner such as Windex. But do some research, the taking apart can be tricky. I believe Adam Koralik on YouTube has a good video for it (I'd give a link but I'm at work). I'd he doesn't, http://www.ifixit.com has great step by step breakdowns with pictures.
I don't know how it is where you are, but in the states, a Sega Genesis (without the Sega CD and 32X) is one of the most affordable retro consoles a person can easily acquire. In my opinion, the Sega CD and 32X aren't worth looking for unless you're a die-hard collector. Each one of them has a small library of games, and of those, only a few are really good. The Sega Genesis, by itself, however, has tons of games and a lot of them are excellent and they're pretty cheap compared to say, SNES games.
If you can't get your hands on the retro tech that you're looking for affordably, I would urge you to push your knowledge further and learn how to construct a Retropie setup using a Raspberry Pi microcomputer. I built one for under $65 USD and it plays all kinds of old games, via emulation. Check /r/retropie for more info.
Another link : https://retropie.org.uk/
I had this too, inside my copy of Link's Awakening. It probably fell somewhere where it was forgotten for a couple years (car seat cushions maybe?) and then had stuff (soda, juice) spilled on it over the years and the syrup remained. Game Boy carts fit together pretty snugly but they're not waterproof.
BTW, I cleaned up my copy of Link's Awakening with a few sprays of <strong>QD</strong>, it works perfectly now
My advice would be to check out CCS64 and Altirra and have a play with both systems in an emulator environment first.
> Which has better games? C=64 (especially if you stray in to the late-80's/early-90's EU tape library)
> I don’t currently know how to code but I am looking to learn and I thought BASIC would be a good start, but I would like to know if one or the other is at all better at this.
This was always a bad idea, even back in the day. If you really want to learn to code BASIC really isn't a good place to start.
As to which is better? The C=64 is famed for a god awful user unfriendly dialect. I'm not familiar BASIC on the Atari to comment on that dialect.
That said the C=64 could be a good option. It'd pretty much force you to learn 6502 machine code to get anything meaningful done.
I think you've got to look in the installation directory for the ROM and move it over to a location for whatever emulator you've chosen. MAME is a solid emulation choice but can be a bit awkward to set up as I think you also need the Neo Geo BIOS and that might have changed since the GOG.com Neo Geo games were put up.
I managed to get the torrent links to work by replacing the URL a bit.
OK, so the page links to torrents like this: http://www.nyaa.se/?page=download&tid=493678
You need to change that format into this URL to download the torrent file: https://nyaa.si/download/493678.torrent
The number stays the same, it's just a different domain and format.
Sure! Not as many well known ones as SNES though. Probably also less total.
Sword of vermilion is an awesome RPG. I can't believe how cheap it is. I got mine complete in box for $6 or $7 at my local store.
Phantasy star 2, 3, and 4 on genesis are also must plays. 4 being the best one.
There are also more actiony RPGs like crusader of Centy and Landstalker.
This was not a struggle. This was amazing when you came from this.
https://www.amazon.com/Game-Switch-Atari-Colecovision-Intellivision/dp/B0013N0CX8
Atlantic Summit Adjustable Media Cabinet - Holds 261 CDs, 114 DVDs or 132 Blu-Rays, 6 Adjustable and 3 Fixed Shelves PN74735728 in Maple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058O8PVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SN1QJ2VVRC1F33EM81FX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 👌
I bought them off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Seville-Classics-Individual-Designed-Shelves/dp/B0184HOQKA
Hope that helps!
Just get an old-fashioned universal IR remote like this one. Comes with a "programming" guide wherein you select brand or model category. But there's a lot of overlap, so you can also just try a few presets and see what works.
The cheapest upscaler worth using for 240p consoles like the SNES is the RetroTINK-2X Mini. It only supports composite and S-Video, but that may be good enough for you. From there you'd just need a cheap HDMI-to-VGA converter to connect it to your monitor.
I just ordered this power strip from Amazon. The reason I picked it up is because it spaces the sockets far enough apart to plug the large power bricks in. There were a few other similar options, but this was appeared to be the best value. If you go another route, just make sure it has a breaker switch.
Now, I would be very wary of cheaping-out when it comes to electricity. I considered picking up the short extension cables first, but they seemed like they were going to be very cheap and I would have been nervous about plugging all my consoles into them.
So my thinking was, for less than $10 more, I could get a much higher quality product from a prominent North American tool manufacturer, and it would be properly/officially certified.
Hyperkin manufactures replacement visors and stands that you can find on Amazon. The two parts of the visor are sold separately: https://www.amazon.com/Virtual-Boy-Replacement-Eyeshade/dp/B01F7SMA9S https://www.amazon.com/Virtual-Boy-Replacement-Eyeshade-Holder/dp/B01FE82JOM
Cleaning carts -
91% or higher Rubbing Alcohol and Q-tips. I'd recommend actual Q-tips, I've used various other brands and off brand ones and they either don't have enough on the tips, pull off too easily and leave tiny hairs all over the pins, or just snap too easy when im pressing down hard.
Pink rubber eraser. The kind you always had in school and probably never used, when the alcohol doesn't cut it this is a life saver. https://www.amazon.com/Paper-Mate-Pearl-Erasers-Medium/dp/B00006IFAR/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504274728&sr=8-3&keywords=rubber+eraser
Fine/Very Fine Sandpaper (this is your absolute last resort)
Some people also use a metal polish like brasso, I haven't done that much but supposedly it works really well too.
Cleaning process the progression goes like this for me. 91% or higher alcohol and qtip, if that doesn't work pink rubber eraser, then alcohol and qtip again, if that doesn't work, do it again, if it still doesn't work look for a problem area/spot and try to focus on it with the eraser. If it still doesn't work Extra fine sandpaper very targeted on just the problem spot. BE WARNED THE SANDPAPER CAN DAMAGE IT, so be careful not to "gash" the pins.
Otherwise I got a tri-wing kit from Amazon, the 3.8 and 4.5 bits and I have a magnetic screwdriver that will take the bits. Also a long thin phillips head screw driver.
Cleaning System Connectors:
Electrical contact cleaner like this comes in handy for cleaning the connectors inside systems. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000BXKZVA
Credit card and white cotton tshirt or similar. Dump a little 91% on it and then insert into the system pin connectors. Also the old school cleaning kits out there work fairly well too.
Also I've needed electrical tape on several occassions especially if you plan on doing any modding.
I've gotten my batteries off Amazon. You can get a better deal by buying several at once if you have other games with these batteries. That game takes a CR1616 tabbed battery. Not sure what your experience level is, but to change the battery you will need a security bit to open the cartridge and a soldering iron to get the old battery out and the new one attached properly.
​
The US versions are supposed to be released by the 15th of april. Here is the official Amazon link for you
If you want to manage your cables a bit better you can get some of these adhesive clips and stick em to the back edge of the desk and run them over behind the shelf, then neatly tie them with velcro straps.
What's funny is that SNK did release a new Metal Slug game recently, Metal Slug Infinity, and it's been getting review bombed because the pre-release PR sorta glossed over the fact that it's a lame clicker/idler and not at all a real Metal Slug.
You should look for a switch rather than a splitter. Passive splitters will usually degrade the signal and can lead to weird side-effects like powering a switched-off console from a switched-on one via the status and RGB signalling pins.
I've personally had great results with one of these cheap Tevion switchers (though the same device is sold under a number of different brands), the only weirdness is that the RGB switch is just labelled "OFF". I can't tell any difference between a device running through the switch when compared to it being plugged straight into the device, including when using a scaler plugged into an LCD (which tends to show up noise/ghosting/interference issues more than a CRT does). It seems to be a clone of the popular (and much more expensive) Hama AV Selector 100S if the mislabelled RGB button annoys you too much.
Man, handheld N64 emulation was my #1 reason for buying my nVidia Shield. While Android with Mupen64Plus FZ is great for that, I would so love to have something that will play the actual cartridges (plus, if this potential system is a hardware-level clone, it'll probably have better compatibility and/or less bugs with those 'problem' games such as StarCraft64, Banjo Kazooie/Tooie, and Rayman 2: The Great Escape)...
1ft extension cords should help with your power brick woes:
I use aFBA for a lot of Neo Geo and arcade stuff. I've had no luck with MAME.
On one hand FBA doesn't have as high compatibility as MAME, but on the other, aFBA has a full compatibility list with ROMset and filename info for setup built into the app so you absolutely can't screw it up.
I don't emulate a lot of arcade or NG stuff, but it's been good enough to get me stuff like X-Men Arcade, TMNT Arcade, Metal Slug, Street Fighter 3, MVsC, and some others.
From the Sonic Description On Android
>Race at lightning speeds across seven classic zones as Sonic the Hedgehog. Run and spin through loop-de-loops as you collect rings and defeat enemies on your mission to save the world from the evil Dr. Eggman.
Dr Eggman. Went with the classic name I see.
Having to download them all as stand alone apps is.... annoying.
Edit: requires a constant internet connection for the non-paid version. Annyone as heeeellll.
Android port of DosBox, basically. aFreeBox is what I use. Then you can grab the Win 3.1 stuff from Archive.org (or elsewhere).
If you have a Samsung Galaxy or another Android smart phone with an IR LED download Peel Smart Remote and you can add your TV + DVD player and control them from your phone. It doesn't have every control, but it's worth a shot if you have the hardware.
HDD is also good for preserving the disc drive and not adding wear to it. Only downside to these fat boys are the loud fans but you can mod them pretty easily.
If you want another subject to cover. I would go over the importance colecovision had on modern gaming. Here's an interesting forum discussion that could get the juices going.
It’s basically as simple as setting up the SD card and turning on the device. You’ll want some sort of case which you can get on amazon, and the power adapter. You can usually get these things together with the pi in a bundle.
Raspberry pi is pretty weak but it’ll be okay for up to the 16 bit consoles.
Retropie has some nice themes, including nes/snes mini.
https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Themes/
Seeing as you have the nes mini go with it for now, but I’d consider the retropie for a future upgrade.
Very cool! I run a 2gb pi4 with Retropie too, find it an awesome machine!
Also you can get n64 working well on it (mostly, depends on the game)
https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/25112/getting-the-best-n64-experience-on-a-pi-4
This forum thread outlines it well. Mario 64, Zelda, Banjo Kazooie all work pretty well on it for me :)
well practice makes perfect. you could find a bunch of sports games to practice on
found a list of games that have them.
http://www.mobygames.com/attribute/sheet/attributeId,175/offset,0/p,15/so,0a/
Yeah this one was awesome. It was one of the first three video games I had on PC. It was a Sierra 'greatest hits' pack with Kings Quest V, Red Baron, and this one.
I loved this title because it was very much like Blade Runner, a film that I had just discovered at the time. Here is the DOS entry on Moby, which has a lot of screenshots.
I played this, KQV and RB so much I wrote walk-throughs. They're lost to the ravages of time now (TXT files from 1990 -- I didn't bother holding on to them).
Iwata also coded Car Battle II for the Commodore PET and Star Battle for the Japanese VIC-20 market. HAL also did several of Commodore's early C64 carts, although I don't know if he was still working for HAL or had moved on to Nintendo.
Tried both Excitebike and Q*bert on the RES+ and both worked just fine. I'm wondering if you need to take them apart and really scrub the contacts, because it seems like they should work (unless the SD version of the RES just has much worse compatibility).
I bought the honestech vhs to dvd package to digitize a bunch of stuff for my dad, but the software froze up. I'm on Windows 10. I tried it with https://obsproject.com/ and sometimes it is slow to start but it has svideo and composite inputs and works pretty well. I got it at Microcenter price matched with best buy plus a mail in rebate. I can try to hook it up to a console to show you what it looks like if you are interested.
Otherwise, finding a random (used) cheap converter like that may work with the open source software if you can get the driver for it.
Mainly get it plugged in and test out all the inputs. Make sure you are selecting the correct input options on the front buttons when trying to select the video inputs. Don't panic if you don't see anything right away. The input select can be a little fiddly. If you have a way to get it working set up 240p test suite to test the monitor. (https://sourceforge.net/projects/testsuite240p/). There are many different calibrations and a lot of setup that can be done. There is a focus inside the back cover that can be adjusted and a service menu for a lot of the geometry settings. Head over the /r/crtgaming and look the the sidebar wiki for more info.
I’m a big fan of white erasers like these:
Prismacolor Premier Magic Rub Vinyl Erasers, 3-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ENNEJW/
They clean off gunk and shine the contacts nicely. I always start with them, then finish with 90%+ IPA.
If memory serves it shouldn't come with any games. It's aDIY kit (or I think you can buy it pre-assembled) but you have to provide the OS and ROMs...unless they're selling it with the ROMs which they definitely shouldn't be doing.
It uses the RP3 so just look up what systems will run reliably on it and there's your games list: https://retropie.org.uk/about/systems/
For emulation purposes, they're pretty easy to get set up and running, even for people who are less tech-savvy. Here's the installation instructions for Retropie - you can check them out and see if you're comfortable with the steps required.
Was this game for one of the older versions of Windows? Like the 3.x eras, or maybe 95 at absolute latest? Even shareware initially?
(I'm looking for the name of a similar game myself - sorry if this got your hopes up)
EDIT: I found my game: http://www.mobygames.com/game/win3x/wintrek/screenshots/gameShotId,120642/
> You're gonna have a hard time connecting that to pretty much anything today.
Well, you just need a $2.50-$5.00 RCA VH58N to connect it to a CRT or tuner, which is a pretty commonplace part (as they were so common, back in the day). Usually, you find these sold with the RF modulator, for systems which use flat-lead antenna hookups, since TVs haven't conventionally used flat leads for 40 years or so. But the transformers are still widely and readily available, as linked.
I decided to have a look at some of the backups for the Futuretronics websites on the Wayback Machine, and found a different phone number (and a FAX number) here. It could be worth a shot too.
Anyhow, keep us in the loop. This is very interesting (and I find myself wondering if you have a prototype, since it is literally not mentioned anywhere else on the internet).
Black Cauldron. (I was too young to type in the commands for King's Quest, but BC had hot keys for actions and was easier for me to play.)
https://pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Resident_Evil
Seems like a lot of unnecessary trouble just to play the PC version though. Maybe just emulate the PS1 version in ePSXe?
I just got a Toshiba DR440 to use as an upscaler. It has an HDMI out. While I prefer outputting to 720p since it has a clearer image and my TV can adjust it to 4:3, it DOES output 480p. I've captured tons of videos on all modes, so I can post an 480p one if you want.
EDIT: Also, a warning: do NOT buy this converter. It completely botches 240p signals, as I showed in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/retrogaming/comments/5qq5cn/horrible_stuttering_in_cheap_hdmi_upscaler_anyone/ I've since tried the same converter with the composite out of the DVD Recorder and confirmed that it's not defective, it just hates 240p.
Another tip as a fellow everdrive owner, get a nifty minidrive SD adapter or cheaper knockoff. It's basically a half sized SD to MicroSD adapter originally designed for macbooks to fit flush with the chasis. Then throw in a microSD with your roms into it. Fits more flush with the master everdrive. I got mine from deal extreme and it only pokes out slightly from the cartridge. Just enough to be able to pull it out by the tip of your fingers.
buy a wii, a 2GB SD card (non-HC) and a classic controller
install homebrew channel
Get emulators
???
exactly want you described sans HDMI support
Which model is it? A Raspberry Pi would probably be able to be fitted into almost any model and very easy to be made to look stock. You could reroute the USB ports to be where the controller ports are.
This guy has made an old 4 switcher into a portable emulator complete with screen but it looks pretty ugly IMO.
http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=47957
Glad I could help. If you can't get it to run on a modern version of Windows, you might be able to run Windows 98 inside VirtualBox and play the game that way. That's how I play some older Windows games.
dgvoodoo2 I use that for various games and emulators , no issues with it at all.
I use Launchbox with dosbox for Dos games and consoles, I use virtual machines for windows 98se for games as well... The solution always depends on the games you want to play and sometimes its better to buy them from GOG.com than steam as they work better.
Here's one of the first I remember on C64
http://www.gb64.com/Screenshots/K/Kickman_v1.png
Also Frogger, Galaga, Space Invaders. I was a kid of the early to mid 90's but these were where I started on my dad's C64. Also shortly after Carmen Sandiego games(1996).