Hook a Bluetooth up to it. Like this. Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, esinkin W29-us Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_G7lfFbVMQ9FFG search Bluetooth stereo adapter.
I bought these on Amazon for $17 because they have a usb powered option, then I used a usb power adapter and smart switch, so now "Hey Google, turn on the Candles" makes the Master Bedroom romantic.
Only problem is using a smart switch on my current setup, I can't say "turn off the candles in 10 minutes".
It's cute that you hid an Amazon affiliate referral link behind two URL shorteners.
Here's the link for anyone wanting to gawk but not give anyone the referral because fuck OP and their shill account:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Microwave-Compact-Works-Alexa/dp/B07894S727
Really happy with my Eufy by Anker, BoostIQ RoboVac 30C Picked it up for £160 last month (Currently £170 with voucher), has been on sale every few weeks during lockdown.
4.5stars out of 1700reviews speaks for itself.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6WCL-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dx2cEb56VPNJ6
This works without a neutral wire. I have a few working in my 1923 home.
> Do you realize how expensive and complicated a system like that would be?
Like $10 at cost and not very complicated?
> How would it recharge while the water is running?
The water would power a hydroelectric generator that would recharge the battery.
> Do you think they have mini hydroelectric plants that can fit in a showerhead?
Yes. They literally do.
> lol
https://www.amazon.com/Hyquadio-Hydro-Powered-Bluetooth-Speaker-Waterproof/dp/B07P9LH1XL
lol
This is a millivolt switch! No power to run anything other than the valve.
You need something like https://www.amazon.com/Durablow-Fireplace-Compatible-Programmable-SH3001/dp/B07DDCL8P5
or some swithmate, switchbot that goes over the switch.... Or something that does not require much power or independent power supply:
Anything standard: Shelly, Tuya, Lutron, etc will NOT work.
A jury-rig for sure, but getting a smart toggle switch and mount it upside down, and epoxy a hook onto it. Keys on the hook pull the switch down to turn on (since it's mounted upside down).
I have a SmartThings hub and an Alexa system, and I have a routine when my phone connects to wifi, it says "Earguy is home." BTW my dogs have learned that this means I'll be walking in the door in moments. But I wonder if it'd be easier to set routines to run when you connect and disconnect from wifi.
How using an electrical mini extension
Stellar Labs 6" Extension Cord with Flat 360 Degree Rotating Plug, 14AWG White
Or just install a new outlet next to it
I'm also a huge fan of the WAGO 221 wire nuts. They are a little more expensive (20c each), but they are small, make rearranging things very easy and in 5 years when you switch your dimmers to the latest and greatest, the copper isn't all twisted.
A firewall won’t resolve the most simple password reuse attack.
I recommend everyone use a password manager, 2FA and check https://haveibeenpwned.com to understand the usernames/passwords compromised.
Electric blankets are rather simple. A popular model from Sunbeam allows you to simply set the temperature with a dial (which you can set for her once and leave it) and then it's just a button to turn it on. It turns off automatically after 10 hours.
The GE Z-Wave Plus switches, dimmers and fan switches are fantastic. I have over 40 of them in my house and they are the most reliable smart devices that I own.
Here they are on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
Also, you'll need a SmartThings hub to control it all: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL
You typically need C wire. Some thermostats have a solution to avoid C [not generic], and you will need batteries or power supply. Ugh
My choice would be to either add a wire, or use like https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Add-A-Wire-Kit/dp/B008PLWT8C add-a-wire kit. There are too many of them to count of those kits, you can find one.
You would need to install a VPN on all your devices yes.
I will give you this bit of advice though OP.
You REALLY dont need to use a VPN if you are at your own home. In fact, i would advise against it. If security is your big concern, you should really look into properly locking down your network. You should only really use a VPN if you are needing to spoof your location (which you might be seeing as you want too use it on media devices). A lot of VPN subscription companies tell you you should be using a VPN all the time. But here are some reasons why you may not want to do that.
I myself use Mullvad VPN when i am out and about (when i dont use my own PERSONAL one i built) so i get the excitement of using a VPN service to lock down everything. But as i outlined here, you really dont need too (and shouldn’t) on your own home network but rather should lock your network down itself.
Those are typically secured with magnetic locks, something like this with an added Z-bracket to mount the plate on.
I bought the Frigidaire Retro Mini Compact Beverage Refrigerator from Amazon. There's a CocaCola branded one that's exactly the same, but more expensive because of the branding. I saw a bunch of places sell them, but Amazon was the cheapest for me.
These are the outdoor string lights that I have and they are awesome!
They are warm white, R ,G, B LEDs and you can change the color using a remote that comes in the package. They also have pre designated color combinations which correspond to different holidays like Christmas, fourth of July, etc. And you can also pick your own 2 color combination using the remote.
Let me tell you that they are absolutely shatter proof, water proof, and can handle extreme weather as well. I love in Texas and in the summer it gets up above 100°F and this year we also had a bad ice storm that force everything for a week and the lights are still standing and fully functional.
So I use these lights for the patio and in order to be able to turn them on or off from my smart app, I use an outdoor rated wifi switch that I plug the lights into. So I'll set them to whatever color I want using the remote in the package and I turn them on or off using the smart switch. (and they remember the last state they were in)
Register booster my dude. They are "dumb" but they work. https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Register-Thermostat-Control/dp/B0792QR5YT/
I would much rather have smart vents but I'm in the same scenario as you and don't want to spend the money to deploy them in the whole house.
I have a low voltage switch similar to this. Opted for Thirdreality. Works great.
THIRDREALITY Smart Light Switch (Gen1) - No Wiring Easy Installation, Overlays existing Toggle or Rocker switches. Works with Alexa/Google Home and SmartThings, Hub Required https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079M178GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2F5RD6546DESNS2Z9NXY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
they claim it can do 2cm
if not, maybe you can find a wider flatter one
https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Corduct-Overfloor-Protector/dp/B000BVXVTA
Blink cameras from amazon are pretty good. They run on AA batteries and I have had mine for about a year and have not needed to change the batteries yet. They are also home assistant compatible. They have both indoor and outdoor models.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0172DDZ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wPWjDb4BM69T4
What about this same process, but with an Amazon Echo Show (without Chromecast)?
I think you'd just have to determine how to easily get the photos into the correct Amazon photo album.
The reviews for https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Compatible-Required-Appliances-Certified/dp/B08FJ5LHSN/ mention that it supports power monitoring on zigbee
I just drilled a hole in my desk and added one of these. Then I installed this power strip to the underside of my desk and have a wireless charger plugged into it. Same functionality and I wouldn't call my desk smart.
Edit: Wow, $1200 too haha. So my desk is 1/4 the cost with the same functionality. Can buy a nice desk from Room and Board at that price point.
If you want to add more Ethernet connections, you can buy a switch to add to your router. The switch allows you to add more Ethernet connections.
https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Business-LGS108-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00EUU9XJU
Smart power strip. TV plugs into control outlet. Then when TV is turned on, all devices plugged into the switched outlets will get powered.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t8PxFb0A6F3R7
Same problem here but on Amazon they sell adapters for my Nest Hello. I plug it in inside and just run the long cable to the outside along the edge of my front door. Your model's power needs may vary but here's what I'm talking about: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GSXH97K
Thanks for mention. Additionally to HASSIO what OP is requesting can be done with via free IFTTT integration applet.
Special offer for fellow redditors: Use promo code GOREDDIT at garadget.com today or tomorrow for $10 off your smart garage door controller purchase.
Questions? AMA!
Home-assistant.io is able to combine almost everything...you just need a raspberry pi, a zigbee/zwave stick and you are good to go! Try it out if you feel like it. In the end all its devices are controllable by alexa.
Home Assistant Can be installed on a Raspberry Pi and used as a hub that can control pretty much any smart home devices. The simplest installation would be Hass.io the easiest setup. Once you set up Home Assistant the automation possibilities are infinite.
Aqara has a good one. It’s a double rocker, uses zigbee and doesn’t need a neutral wire. It is Alexa, Google, and HomeKit compatible
Aqara Smart Light Switch (No Neutral, Double Rocker), Requires AQARA HUB, Zigbee Switch, Remote Control and Set Timer for Home Automation, Compatible with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B081ZQZJ8J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5F7WZ21TSZY6XM1N4PKQ?psc=1
I can't speak to the quality, but there are some E26 candle smart bulbs on Amazon:
You would need to remove the RF fan controller from above the fan. It's typically a small(4"x2"x.5"). Once that is removed, you can install a wifi smart fan controller. I suggest the treatlife one. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086PPRWL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_A507NWQJ3RJQ6N901B30).
I have an 8-port TP-Link switch. No complaints.
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6
They make a 16 port switch as well.
TP Link Kasa https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tplink.kasa_android
The app is MUCH more stable than Wemo (and cheaper). I have both brands installed in my house and TP Link causes mucv less hassle.
Not really. Looks like actual fluorescent tubes in there. Yuck. Even dumb LED bulbs for these are starting to evaporate in favor of integrated LED fixtures. Replace the entire fixture with an integrated LED one (dimmable ones are available if that matters to you) and get a smart switch, or tuck a smart relay in the electrical box above the fixture. Or if you don't need the 4 ft long form factor, you can replace the fixture with whatever you want and put A19 smart bulbs in.
Also, is that... a tiled ceiling?
edit: found an option that lets you use the fixture, potentially: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-466466-EasySmart-Replacing-Fluorescents/dp/B076JDJGZH. But really, running LEDs on a ballast is a terrible idea, so I don't actually recommend this.
Honestly, smart outlets can do everything you listed. You can even get smart outlets that will do the timing without needing Alexa.
Unless you want sensors, remote control, or voice control, I don't recommend it. You are spending more money on complicated wifi outlets than an old school rotary timer like this and are looking forward to a ton of complications. Keep it simple if you don't need it complicated.
IFTTT (If then this that). Alexa can work with your Logitech Universal Remote.
There are scripts on this page to get you started for a whole bunch of stuff.
https://ifttt.com/amazon_alexa
EDIT: The link I was looking for: https://ifttt.com/connect/harmony/amazon_alexa
EDIT EDIT: /r/ifttt/ Points out a few people have issues with alexa & logitech harmony.
When you find something that works, do let us know at /r/Parkinsons - a sub for those with Parkinsons and family & friends of those.
If you have a Raspberry Pi laying around check out Node Red, There are some Nodes for Hue you can add and set up triggers to run at specific times.
Personally, I went with Home Assistant, an open source product under heavy development, on a Raspberry Pi 3. That's required more effort on my part, but for me it's been worth it.
I've chosen all my hardware to be capable of operating entirely locally, though the alerts and notifications require online services (eg, warning me that I've left the garage door open).
In terms of hardware, I'm mostly using Z-Wave devices. Those cost a little more than some, but they report their status back, so my hub always knows what their state is.
My personal goal is to "reduce friction" - I don't want to have to force people to learn new behaviours, like not turning lights on and off at the wall. That rules out replacing bulbs with smart bulbs (eg Hue).
The actual installation is as simple as described below. Follow the instructions here.
Once that's done, you'll have a fully functional HASS instance. At that point, you'll need to follow the basic config stuff in the getting started section to define any components you have. This just means adding lines to your configuration.yaml file. Some things, like zwave, will require installing a package or two, but most just need to be added to the config (zwave will be simpler after the next release).
Once you've stepped through basic setup, there is a cookbook on the home assistant webpage to show you lots of community examples for defining devices and setting up basic automations.
I'm biased as an active user/supporter but I would seriously suggest looking into Home Assistant. Free, Open Source and can meet all your criteria and then some. There's an all in one installer script that makes implementation on the Pi dead easy and new features are constantly being added. I am so happy I found this.
I've had https://n8n.io/ on my list to try for a while. Self-hostable, which is a big plus for me. But yeah, for the use cases you've mentioned, something on-device makes sense and I think all the examples you gave could be done with the stock Shortcuts app in iOS or something like Tasker on Android, as other commenters have said.
I built one, but went a different route and didn't use the magic mirror software on a RPi. Instead, I built mine with 2 separate fire tablet 8s behind the glass.
Since I use Smartthings for home automation, I use a tool called Action Tiles on one of the tablets. It displays the time, the status of the weather, thermostat, security system, garage door, lights, fans, motion etc... and updates in real time.
The second tablet has Google assistant added to it using fire tools for hands-free "ok Google" commands. I also use this app to cast to it. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.softmedia.receiver.castapp
I purchased three of these WiFi smart switches and they work great, independently controlling my light and fan that previously had that same switch you have. These are "currently unavailable" through Amazon but there are many similar WiFi smart switches that offer two and even three separate switches in a single-gang box space.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZYPBYTL
I will say that it can be a tight fit if your switch is installed an older, small box but you can make it work. Just ensure all wire connections are securely fastened before shoving it all back into the box!
Disposals are heavy loads and many smart plugs would struggle, especially if it gets jammed up.
Garbage Disposal Air Switch Kit, Sink Top Waste Disposer On/Off Switch with Aluminum Alloy Power Module (LONG BRUSHED STAINLESS STEEL BUTTON) by CLEESINK https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072L3VX57
Or this one from a known name brand:
InSinkErator STS-OOSN SinkTop Satin Nickel Button Dual Outlet Switch https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078YC6245
The thing is he could just unplug the tv from the smart plug. What you really need is a smart outlet like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3CK3MM/
As for limiting access to Alexa controls, I don't know. I don't use it.
Something like this I think: Konnected Alarm Panel Wired Alarm System Retrofit Kit - Make Any Wired Alarm System Smart - No Monthly Fees - Works with SmartThings, Home Assistant, Hubitat (12 Zone Conversion) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5GYJMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XVVEMCWM4N6R21835A3C
Super-happy with my Nest × Yale locks -- you could go that route for a lock and fit right in with the Nest ecosystem (did the same myself after picking up a thermostat).
When I went to expand to include smart switches, garage, and bulbs, I went with Hubitat and Z-Wave devices. Have been really happy with the hub, and sensors are pretty widely available. If you go Hubitat, it'd be worth checking out Inovelli for switches (maybe a better plan than smart bulbs except for where you need colour).
I'd advise against the MyQ garage door. I picked it up early on, but realized later that I could keep my garage door off of the cloud, integrate better with the Z-Wave network, and improve reliability by installing a relay and sensor instead. I used this and this.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Smart-Light-Switch-1PACK/dp/B07K3TRG6W?ref_=ast_sto_dp
It's zigbee, so I use it with my Raspberry Pi and Conbee. It works reasonably well and has a physical on off button. Besides replacing the switch with a proper smart switch, its the best solution I have found yet.
You might want to look into a counter-top hot water dispenser. Asian households will often have these for tea and other things. Great for of you need hot water often.
I have a similar fireplace with a light switch and went the easy route (since I am renting as well).
The Third Reality Smart Switch sits on top of the light switch and mechanically 'flicks the switch'. No wiring involved. It's a Zigbee device which works out of the box with Alexa and Google home, but I replaced the included hub with a Conbee II Zigbee stick to get it into Home Assistant. Now with my living room temperature sensor, the Switch turns on when it's cold, and off when it gets warm as well as on in the morning and off at night.
If you already have smartthings, buy a "dumb" z-wave thermostat. It will integrate better with smartthings.
I had a Nest in my previous home and it was a PITA when combined with smartthings, so I bought a basic z-wave thermostat and it's a lot easier to manage.
Most of my automation relies on the smart app "routine director" which uses presence and time to switch between combinations of home/away and day/night. Away routines set temp higher/lower depending on season relative to being home.
You can probably find a DAC (digital to analog converter) that will take the digital signal from the TV over optical. Then you will need a stereo mixer which you can find at a music/DJ store like guitar center or musician's friend. Then into your sound bar from the mixer. You will likely have to control the volume with your sound bar remote, the TV will not be able to pass the volume control through to the sound bar any more.
Edit: found some cheap options from Amazon:
Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j2LuAbGYAX0KR
Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O3LuAb86CQR28
I had the same problem. I just added this hub to continue to use the bulbs. Link to Hub on Amazon.
My situation was different, I added a sensor for water in the basement that wasn't supported on the hub that came with the starter kit... after some time of running both hubs (I was to lazy to move the bulbs onto the newer hub) the old hub I was using had the same issue.
The GE bulbs aren't bad and for 35 bucks, you can still continue to use them.
If you want a Radon monitor that doesn't look like it was designed in the 1980s, it's a good deal.
Direct link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Corentium-Detector-Airthings-223-Lightweight/dp/B00H2VOSP8
Sengled bulbs are fit the bill if you have a zigbee hub. 33 for 4 or 65 for 8 currently on Amazon. I have a lot of different smart bulbs and Sengled are the next best thing to hue imo
Sengled Smart LED Daylight A19 Bulb, Hub Required, 5000K 60W Equivalent, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant & SmartThings, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HHWQWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HXY.CbA5YWS16
How about a lowish-tech way to do it? You can get power strips that have a "primary" outlet that, depending on how much power its pulling, turns on/off a couple others: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B002K8S2J6 - My only concern is that if the tv power draw doesn't change much from "off" to "on" it may be hard to tune it in just right.
​
Not exactly an IOT solution, but if you care more about reliability than remotely controlling the receiver, this may work pretty well :) I used to install these in some public schools to kill the monitors if the tower was turned off.
What about a regular Chromecast + an HDMI audio extractor? It's a bit pricier than the old Chromecast Audio was, but it should work, and you get the option of optical or line-out.
Yale make a lock that's a direct replacement, you just add the connector for smartthings etc. Available on Amazon etc.
There are some smart switches for ceiling fans with lights. One was linked to on a thread here recently (Amazon I think). I have a ceiling fan but don't use the light and a regular smart switch works fine. That link may have been on an Alexa or Echo subreddit. Maybe this: Smart switch
I've seen cases for existing entry sensors like the Simplisafe ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Simplisafe-Entry-Sensor-Weatherproof-Outdoors/dp/B0734LT6TB
But I've also seen DIY solutions that essentially do the same thing, just shelter the electric sensor side somewhere in the gate post and stick the magnet on the gate door. I plan on doing the same thing just using a z-wave entry sensor.
Just got Harmony, it almost completes my setup, can't believe I had not gotten on it earlier.
Also, my Pioneer Receiver has a built-in chromecast, which comes in handy, and I can use an app like this to cast my flac music from my media server (my router in this case) to the receiver. Solid setup.
If you're looking to Tasker enable your SmartThings, check out SharpTools which is a set of SmartThings Tasker plugins I wrote.
Here's a few examples for using the Tasker plugins: http://sharptools.boshdirect.com/examples-list
Since it's Christmas, I sent you a PM with an unlock code for the SharpTools tasker plugin.
And for the Redditors reading this post, I've included a few SharpTools Tasker unlock codes below:
PDLPQLDZQ3ZJBKV39U5K8WP
~~
DXTE6D2RGVKXS14LSJYF98N
~~
~~
2GZ4RP7A3VEFCGNGL3QJA50
~~
Back to your question: >My question is, to get the house to do things like read my google calendar, check the weather, etc. what device actually processes these requests?
It depends on how you want to use that data. SmartThings has it's own weather provider, so you can do that natively.
How do you want to use the Google Calendar data? If you want to ask Alexa what's on your calendar for example, you can do that with an Alexa skill. If you want to integrate it with SmartThings, you can either go the IFTTT route or a SmartApp route.
I bought a good budget robot based on their review. If anyone is interested here it is on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Robotic-Cleaner-Schedule-Self-Charging/dp/B09XJZ7QJQ?crid=1Y7GCZNBVY2NE
I set it up 4ish years ago and it still runs. I had to think a moment to even remember how I'd set that up originally.
I really don't do as much as I could with regards to "smart home". I've given up trying to get HomeKit or voice assistants to work. Thinking now, I should try to tie my lights into my Ring alarm system and have it run my Ranger's Red/Blue flash event. I could make it look like my whole house is surrounded by flashing cop cars. Just a full 10 Hz strobe red/white/blue would be pretty disorienting, but I think I can only do that on 10 lights per bridge, limited by Entertainment Zones.
What would you do with it linked to smart things?
I have this and it’s the best price to vacuum IMO. Saw this deal and told everyone who saw mine and wanted one.
I5V25QHP for $10 more off (got it from slickdeals) https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/398383
Not sure if this will do the job but if I'm reading tit right, might work and only £7.
These are things I have my own personal reasons
things i need to do
​
to integrate all of these things into a central hub, i use home-assistant.io, so far it has been working great, i have a few automations im using already, one of them notifies my wife when im on my way home for school. Also it helps with my presence detection
>optional professional monitoring
If you are going to DIY a system, this is going to be out. No company is going to monitor devices that they didn't provide and have some quality control over.
Now, that being said you could go with something like SimpliSafe and Home Assistant: https://home-assistant.io/components/alarm_control_panel.simplisafe/
That would at least give you that piece of the pie. You can pull it cameras, garage door, etc as well. However getting going isn't the most user-friendly. You won't be writing scripts, but you will be writing YAML.
I havent set anything like that up so I'm not sure. The best place to start would be here at the list of all the compatable componets. That sounds like something commonly set up so there should be a tutorial somewhere.
All I have set up is some automation based on my Hue lights like having them turn on and a specific color based on a google calender event (in this case when certian sports teams come on, 2 blooms behind my TV change to the team colors).
Saw the Google Home is $72.50 and best smart home deal I have seen.
The first question that needs to be answered is if you have environment preferences. You've got apple and Amazon devices so Apple HomeKit would probably work for most of your needs, with the assistance of an Echo for voice control (I'm not sure if HomeKit would work with the TVs). One note of warning: if you start looking into this stuff and continue to add things you want, it may be worthwhile to check out a SmartThings, Wink or HomeAssistant hub. Imo these are more robust solutions for more advance smart homes.
Secondly, for the lamps, are you looking to adjust the lighting or just turn them on or off? Do some research at the link below to see which bulbs or outlets fit your needs best.
For the speakers, a lot of people love Sonos. They work with the HomeKit as well.
Honestly, I don't know because I don't have an Alexa device (we're a Google Assistant home :) ). By default the app "names" your rooms by letter once they're discovered, and then on the map you can "split" or "join" the original inferred rooms together to however you want it. And then you can name those rooms based on a set of hard-coded names (e.g. "Kitchen", "Living room", all the common room names). You can't type in a completely custom name at that point.
So it's conceivable that you could issue a command via Alexa because there are named rooms in the system. But if the documentation doesn't indicate that you can, then you probably can't at this point. If the i9+ can do that today, then I'd lean towards that direction.
I'm in Canada too, and the i9+ was substantially more expensive than the N8 Pro+ ($1250 vs $800 respectively) so I went with the latter. Plus, I was intrigued by the mopping ability of the N8 Pro+.
I'll try setting up the Google Home integration at some point over the next couple days and see how that goes. Some people on that link are claiming that they're able to ask for rooms to be cleaned by name, and other say they can't. So, we'll see.
so the google nest is the newer version? when i look up different features, such as character stories and alarms, it says available devices: google home. would that still work on the nest?
https://assistant.google.com/services/a/uid/0000007210ebe766 like this one
and with the google nest can i control my lights?
All done. I mentioned this project in the survey. https://mycroft.ai/ I am not associated with this project but it has always peaked my interest. I am hoping to pick up their second gen assistant in the near future. It is open-source centric so it might be worth looking at as a comparison to the big tech companies.
There is a Spotify component for Home Assitant. You can create a script that plays a specific playlist on a specific Spotify client (like the Chromecast). So you could create a toggle that says "play playlist Rock on Kitchen Chromecast". You need to do some tinkering with your config. I haven't done this but you can probably find example if you google that.
As for triggering this with your Alexa it might get a bit awkward. You can't just create custom commands unless you create your own Alexa skill. You can work with turn on/off commands, telling Alexa that one of your HA scripts is a Hue Bulb. Look into Emulated Hue for HA. So you could say something like: "Alexa, turn on kitchen music." where "kitchen music" is the emulated hue device that points to your Spotify script.
Always search for components and forum post. Something like "xbox one home assistant" can give good results. Maybe you find a component that does what you want easy or people who have tinkered a solution.
Read a lot of stuff and you will get the hang of it. Look at what other people have done with their HA setups and how their config looks. That is a good way to learn and figure stuff out.
This all possible.
I haven't used the Broadlink with Home Assistant but I have read that others have and are happy with it. I use the Harmony Hub with HA to control my TV but I would probably get a Broadling as well now because it is cheaper and has RF. Here is the doc to create a switch in HA with Broadlink IR commands: Broadlink Switch
Controlling the Chromecast via Alexa in the sense of "play X on portable Chromecast" will be difficult. There might be some hacky solutions to do this. However, if it is only about play/plause this can be done via HA. I am doing that and I can send you a snippet of my config if you need it.
Amazon and Google are both trying to "hub-ify" their assistants so they can do much of what you are asking on their own, but neither are true hubs. I would recommend a dedicated home automation hub that is specifically designed to act as an automation controller. Since you have interest in Raspberry Pi, I suggest you look at Home Assistant
I'd really take a look at HomeAssistant. Runs on the Pi, easy to setup supports everything. Fully open source and active community with an every two weeks release schedule. https://home-assistant.io (corrected from previous)
Full disclosure: I am a moderator on their support forums as well as an active user and contributor.
It is open source and a bit more DIY but if you are up for it, you get integration with over 500 components. You can use Vera as a "hub" to connect your devices and then HomeAssistant can act as the brains. So where my SmartThings hub connects to all my switches, locks, sensors... HomeAssistant uses this but also allows connection to my TVs, Sonos Speakers, Online Services, etc.
Later, if you do indeed want to get rid of Vera, you can transition everything directly to HomeAssistant by using a Z-Wave USB stick.
Designed to run on a Raspberry Pi but run on just about anything.
As I said, it is more DIY for some things but if you are up for it, you can really beef up your capabilities. Check it out here: https://home-assistant.io/components/
You should check out Home Assistant > Control all your devices from a single, mobile-friendly, interface.
>Home Assistant allows you to control all your devices without storing any of your data in the cloud. We like to keep your privacy private.
Yeah I just ended up getting a free html5 template and throwing chart.js at it. Wrapped everything in Python's django and got something that is at least not repulsive.
Inovelli Z-Wave Switch (Red Series) | ZWave Light Switch Works with SmartThings | Energy Monitoring, Repeater, 3-Way Smart Switch Technology, LED RGB Notifications, Signal Indicator | Z-Wave Plus w/S2 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07T26MVYC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CFDJGAS3M9ZF62C7SAAY
If you tap the bottom button 8 times, it never disconnects the power and leaves it always on. Or you can have it work like a regular switch that turns off the power for regular bulbs.
That way you can use the taps as smart button controls for smart bulbs in your hub, smartthings for me.
I imagine you could just do it again to turn it off and go back to just a regular switch.
You need this. I have that button for one door and my other unit has wifi built into it. Works well.
828LM LiftMaster Internet Gateway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FT4N2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BH3WX10T05HACK8BKJS6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Since you don't have a C-wire, pick up a z-wave thermostat that can be run off AAs. I like the Honeywell T6 Pro. Make sure to buy the Z-Wave version as there is a similarly named WiFi version. The Z-Wave version will run perfectly off of a set of AAs if it does not have a C-wire.
As long as the device itself supports Google Home, then yes. For instance, I use this device that supports Homekit, Alexa, and Google: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743Q7VCL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
r/Homekit is the dedicated Homekit subreddit.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/Off Controller, 40 amps. Electricity Consumption & Monitoring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3MVZZT619G5V43RKBRK9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
TP-Link has an option that might work for you. I’ve not used this model but have several other TP-Link WiFi outlets and they’re excellent.
Kasa Smart Plug by TP-Link, Dual Outlet Smart Home Wi-Fi Socket Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified (HS107) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SXEKR93K78N4N2MP14J0
I haven't used these kits but I'm hesitant. They work by siphoning power from the other wires. This could damage the control board.
If you want to do this, is an easy diy job.
If I were you though, I'd probably just buy a small 24VAC transformer of of Amazon and make your own c-wire that way.
Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/
This: https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Zigbee-Switch-Compatible-Studio/dp/B08TVZK8D6/
I have one for a low voltage switch. Works great.
Honestly this is where the issue came in. My entire house is smart except for my bathroom fans where we use dumb timers. They work flawlessly because there's no point in upgrading them to smart devices.
Something like this is all you need(ed).
I built a video doorbell with a Raspberry Pi and used a PoE splitter for the power and Ethernet.
DSLRKIT Gigabit USB Type C Active... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJ3ZNJ4
Smraza Raspberry Pi 4 Camera... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L2SY756
like u/Ginge_Leader says, be careful what you wish for and test with all the major stakeholders in the home :-)
The only ones I could find are larger than you asked for and are from "unknown" companies. I don't even know if this product is safety tested using UL/ETL/CSA/VDE/TUV ... (don't use FCC or CE marks for safety).
https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Compatible-Dimmable-Fixture-Kitchen/dp/B07WY3VM1M
I used OSRAM Smart+ LED GU5.3 in my hallway with SmartThings and a couple of motion sensors. Listed as being compatible with Hue bridge too, although never tried it.
meross Smart Garage Door Opener Remote, APP Control, Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant and SmartThings, Multiple Notification Modes, No Hub Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QCTN71J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5CNM64E5J5S78GHW7NW9